Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

i just got my autotek mean machine 1500 hooked up to my 2 type r 12s and i got the ssf at 35 and the lpf at 80...what do you guys run yours at or suggest i run them at

I bought a DC Power 250xp alt over a year ago for my 2011 Malibu. Been sitting in the garage ever since. I've found out my vehicle is PCM controlled. Is there going to be any kind of upgrade installing this thing? Did I waste $650 by not doing my homework? My system isn't anything huge but I have a 2nd battery in the back that doesn't seem to be keeping voltage up. As far as amps a sundown 1500 and a fosgate t400.4. I tried listing the alt for sale but no bites. Basically should I even bother installing this thing? DC quoted $130 to recase this. Maybe recase for my 03 Tahoe (if its not PCM controlled?)

I bought a PG 1200.1 from my buddy he had 3 15s hooked up with just one PG 1200.1 and he was push about 1510.2 watts when tested with just one Pg and a 4 chanel amp. My buddy told me i could use just the PG 1200.1 to push 4 12 inch hifonics brutuss. Each one is 1200 Wats MAXX 600 W RMS. should i buy 1 more PGs to push the subs the right way or just use one?

Hello all! I was looking at a kenwood P-NAV-512 head unit for my truck and was wondering about their pros and cons besides the unimpressive 2V preouts. Thanks.

i have all hyperflex 0 awg, i have a fuse between the alt and battery, at the beginning of and at the end of the run that connects the yellow top to the kinetiks, and from the kinetiks to the amp rack, which also has a anl fused distro. all fuses are 300amp except the 100amp that goes to the clarion amps. will this cause a substantial voltage drop?

If I have my Pioneer 5000Ub headunit with LPF set at 80 Hz.Will I also have to set the Amp Low Pass Filter or can I leave it all up to the Headunit?

What I have currently installed: Kenwood Excelon H/U – Ez700SR (more than 4 years old) Kicker ZR240 on Focal 6.5 Polyglass components Kicker ZX1000.1 on Fi BL15 fully loaded in 4 ft^3 at 32 Hz Big three in 1/0 2005 Mercury Mariner SUV I first set the sub amp with a DMM when I first installed the sub back in November. I was working on modifying the amp rack over the weekend and decided to put the DMM back on and make sure nothing has moved. When I first set the amp I had 44.7 volts with the 50 Hz tone with volume of 27 out of 35. I have no bass boost turned on the amp and all settings on the deck are flat. Now.... The most voltage I could get with the amp was 18.4 vol…

Aight I ran into a guy on Craigslist selling a earthquake ph2000w/d1 so I picked it up for 50 bucks anyone have any info couldn't find much on Google any help

What exactly do you have to do? Is there anything special? Just disconnect the cables and put the new one in right?

the resistor sit between the coil and the 12 capacitors thats in the location number r501 on the board if someone has a hc100 please look at it and tell me it should be easy to see being its a plexiglass bottom damn us amp wont tell me they wanted me to send it in but yeah whatever there goes a bad reference for a authorized us amp dealer so i guess we arent gonna do business with them after all please let me know anyone with a hc 100 made in 1999 and maybe other years too

im running a power acoustik 3000 watt mono amp. i'm using 4awg pwr cable and ground. stock alt. i just pulled out my 2 12" power acoustik mofos that i was running and put in a fully loaded 18" fi btl. well anyways when i first hooked everything up it was working fine for 5 mins. then i started blowing fuses in the power cable. i checked everything for shorts, and if anything was grounding out. everything seems fine. even if i dont connect the sub to the amp the fuse still blows. whats causing this? is it because i need thicker power and ground cable?

Ive got a few questions for those of you that have this amp or have owned it at one time.. i remember reading somewhere the 3000 was only stable down to 2 ohms, but im seeing it on ebay advertised as 1 ohm stable.. true or false? also the power and ground inputs on the amp... 0 gauge or 4 ga like the 1500? thinkin about picking this amp up .. maybe.. thanks.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Sterling-UPS-Battery-1...1742.m153.l1262 vs http://cgi.ebay.com/KINETIK-KHC3800-POWER-...1QQcmdZViewItem HMMM WOULD I RATHER PAY 280 SHIPPED or 480 SHIPPED???? HMMMM

I took it out a few days ago and it had a 3.2v charge. A few min later it had a 1.2v charge, then 0.0v. Idk why it did this, or what I can do. But it sucks. Thoughts?

Looking at alot of the unsolved FixYa problems - I can see alot of "My amplifier is going into protect mode - How do I fix it?" There is no catch all or simple answer. Troubleshooting steps must be taken to determine what is causing the problem. It is one of 3 things.... 1. Impedence under rated value or Thermal Protection. 2. Short to ground in wiring. 3. Internal Component Failure. One of the more confusing things with a car stereo can be when the amplifier goes into protection mode. One minute it's working and the next minute it's not. Here's a brief troubleshooting method that will hopefully help you if your amplifiers ever go into protection. 1. Try to determine the …

Planning on running a sundown 3k and another amp for mids/highs I'm gonna buy a 160amp alternator for my little '97 tercel (its the highest output alt they make for it) I guess I will run a deka under the hood? Big 3 upgrade Will I need another deka to put in the back? And how would I go about wiring those 2 amps to 2 different batteries?

looking for a few different options to power a 10" DCON. Right now i have a Kenwood 9104D running at 12.2 volts putting out 402watts RMS at 4 Ohms. Should i stick with this or go another direction?

will you notice any deferents between a deck with a 95 db signal to noise ratio or a deck with a 105 db. With 2 volt out puts and also the same ? with 4 v out

So yea I was looking for some 1/0 awg wire for the car.... and i remember somebody posting a link to some welders wire that was fairly inexpensive. I looked for one of the 2 sites i remember being listed but couldnt find them.... anyonehave suggestions?

My son bought this amp and we know nothing about it. It is metallic purple and says US AMPS made in Florida on the top and the end says High Definition Reference Amplifier.

The alt is mechman 250amp adjustable voltage and the battery is xspower d1400 14v. I know that there is no definite answer but do you guys think that this would be sufficient to power 3 amps? (saz 3000d a jl 500/5 and a jl e4300) Maybe make it two batteries? Better alt?(recommendation for 1)

Currently i only have a need for an alternator in the low 200's (i'm looking at one at 220) for an 18" Fi BTL. My question is as follows; Is there any harm in buying an alternator that produces more amps then you need?? For example, i will probably put in another BTL in the future and i would like to just buy one 350 alternator now. So if i put a 350 or 320 alternator in my car, which only needs about 220 amps, would it cause any harm to my vehicle? Would it cause harm to my battery? Amplifier? On a side note, any of you fellas try out the Kinetic HC 3800??? Thanks!

How do I bootleg my 700bt Pioneer deck so that I can watch videos while I am driving. I have seen people do it, I can do it but once I hit 7 mph it turns to protection mode.....help please

http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=218&ad=10168316&cat=20&lpid=] Crazyness!!!!

Have a few questions bout charging batts on an actual battery charger. I have a D3100 and a D5100 in the car. Let's say i purchase a Schumacher AGM charger. Since the rear batts have always been connected in parallel their whole time, is it ok if i charge them paralleled together? I don't really see how 1 batt could charge better than the other but i dont know for sure. Second, since i have a solenoid which isolates my rear batts from the rest of the car, is it ok if i charge the rear batts with everything still connected including all the ground cables ran to my chassis? I know not to charge while car running, that's obvious, just check the two things above.