Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Im looking for a good 4-way crossover for an active system. I dont want anything cheap but i still want it to be reasonable priced. Thanks Corey

I am going to use a memphis 16 PRD 1000.1 amp to power a Fi Q12, I really want this sytem to sound nice so how would this amp work? If there are any better for the same price range please let me know. thanks C memphis Prd 1000.1

Focal FP 1.800 what do you think about it? have any of you used it? and what do you think of Focal amps?

I see alot of post where guys are running there amps at .7 ohms, how is this possible. I have run amps at 1 ohm or even .5, but how do you get .7??

last night i picked up a "Massive Audio" 3000.1 took pics but forgot the camera @ home today, will post pics tonight http://www.massiveaudio.com/broadband/prod.../pro/p3000.html

Like the topic says. I just installed an electric fan to my truck and have noticed a slight voltage drop when the fans kick in. With the system I have in the truck, I'm wondering If this might be something I need to do. I need some help on this cause I'm pretty clueless with this. Here's what I got in the truck 2 Miniliths 1 Old school RF punch amp (running the rear spakers) 1 Draconia

what are some good amps that will put out 1600RMS and are for $400 and under.

I thought I would post this here since replies elsewhere were slim. I've seen a couple of US Acoustic amps around at a reasonable price and was wondering what people thought about these amps. I know Zed made the first batch of the USX line and them US Acoustics took the plans and had them made in Korea (Pretty chitty if you ask me). I've google this line and people seenm to be happy with them (quality and build), but I thought I would ask around here since it seems that people have a better perspective on the car audio world on this forum. Tell me what you think.

So I think I have decided on getting a Q for the new system - either a sealed 15 or a ported 12. I am looking for something to power it now. Really what I wanted to do was a Sundown SAZ-1500D for the sub and a 100.2 for the front stage. However, now were talking around 220 amps to run off my 130 amp alternator. This is just a daily driver so if I can get away with it, I don't really want to get an HO alt. So I am open to suggestions on amps to get? You think I could get away with those two amps without an HO alt? Or should I be realistic and tone it down a bit?

I am trying to pick a headunit out. I thought I had it figured out and then decided I was definatley going active. My problem is that I need a HU that will allow me to go active but still play MP3 discs as well as have somewhat decent ipod control. So ive got four picked out price really isnt the factor although $450 is my budget and I am not against buying used. Alpine CDA-9835 (hard to find and are somewhat expensive when found) Alpine CDA-9855 (I can deal with glide touch if need be. its not THAT bad) Pioneer 880-PRS (Easy to find and moderatly priced, some complaints of "snakes in the unit") Eclipse CD7000 (Easy to find but on the higher end of my budget) There are a …

need like 2500w rms for the mt like 240ish (i guess?) @ 3 ohms for the pro60s. im most likely not gonna do rear fill, if i do, itll be off the HU. what you guys think? im tryin to get the amps ordered, so then i can start the box/amprack.

I have a kx1200.1 and its acting very weird, when the car turns on it makes a clicking noise like it wants to turn on but it doesnt put out ne power ... or turn on ... any ideas what this could be?

Looking for a budget amp for a friend to drive an 8" Assasin sub in a .6 sealed enclosure. Any recommendations?

i was wondering if someone could explain it to me i picked thisamp cause its the first one i found 500/1 Class D Monoblock Subwoofer Amplifier Features: 500/1 Description: Class D Monoblock Subwoofer Amplifier Patented Technology: High-Damping Class D Circuit with discrete control circuitry (U.S. Patent #6,441,685) Differential-Balanced Input Topology: 1 pair of inputs On-board Crossover: Fully-variable (40-200 Hz), selectable-slope (12 or 24 dB per octave) LP Preamp Output: 2-channel (independent active filter, parallel with amp filter or pass through) Bass EQ: Single-band parametric with variable boost up to +15dB and Remote Bass Option Infrasonic Filter…

Which amp for great sound quality and build, but the MOST important is efficiency (stock 90amp alt. but doing the big 3 soon) .thankz in advance. JBL GTO1201.1 II Apline MRD-M1005 INFINITY 1211A Kenwood KAC-X1R Orion HCCA-D2400 PHOENIX GOLD RSD1 SoundStream PCA1500D 200.1

Whats your guys opinions on these i know they just came out but we can get preliminary opinions. http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_image...775_62_full.jpg http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_image...775_63_full.jpg http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_image...775_61_full.jpg http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_image...775_64_full.jpg

So I have a friend that wants to replace her amp and sub that came with her 07 Ford Edge. The sub sucks and the amp just doesn't have enough power for her. Is there a way to install an after market amp wihout having to buy a processor like a RF 3sixty or AudioContro DSP? Sorry if this is a silly question, I would like to tell her all her options. Thanks.

I was wondering if anyone on here uses or dislikes the powerbass xa3000 and if you use it did you have any problem with it. i already have an orion 2500d on my sub but i also have had this powerbass sitting in my room because it was in protect mode and a local repairer said he couldnt fix it. i just want to see if its worth fixing i only bought it for 150 bucks and would it be better than the 2500d?

I have a 1.5 farad capacitor a friend gave me and I'd like to put it to some good use. I have a small mtx amp powering a pair of JL coaxial 5.25" speakers and a punch800.2 bridged for my RE HC 12". I understand some people are against using caps but I have one so I might as well use it. And generally they are used for the amp powering the sub however, in my case I highly doubt it would do anything noticable. So here's my question: What would happen if I hooked up the cap to the MTX amp that is powering the front speakers? Would that give the MTX amp a little extra boost? I believe it's a mtx roadthunder and it's pushing maybe 50rms total.

hello everybody! where can i get a service manual for an orion hcca250 ? please send me the schematic at email [email protected]

Chassis reminds me a little of the old ones.

i've found one on ebay.de what do you guys have to say about this amp ? i also have my eye on a RF punch 400a4.

well just like the topic title suggests i have a problem with my amp. i have 2 2400's and i strapped them to my FI BTL 18. one amp per coil. amps are stable to 2 ohms i have dual 2 ohm coils. now im pretty sure the amps dont truley strap together but they have the slave copy master switch to match gains and xovers well i set them up how the book said and it was workin but just didnt sound like i had 2 amps on the sub. so i started foolin with the switches. well needless to say i messed up onw of the amps and also blew my sub, both coils. now one amp is fine and works perfectly it was the master amp. the slave amp still works but when i turn the LPF up it makes a buzzi…

Who has the best deal on 1/0 wire? I'm looking to upgrade from 4 gauge to 1/0.

Aren't they about the same as far as power? I currently have an RE12.1, but I was kinda looking at the NINe.1 cause I can get a matching NINe.2. I know it's kinda silly, but I like my things to match. Is there a reason one would be better than the other?