Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Im looking into an Arc Audio 1500-XXK im worndering is it stable at 1ohm nominal or for 1ohm nominal usage in SPL? Also, does it do rated?

So , I just noticed that my power cap volt meter is droping to around 11.04 volts when I have my system pounding to its potential - can anyone tell me what to look for as the problem with this - 11.04 cant be right , its usually around 12.5-13.4 , and it drops that low for only a second . My setup is this : Red top under my hood -> isolator -> yellow top in the trunk -> 1.2 farad cap -> amps " Kicker 4ch 70x4rms " , and " Orion 2400D 1200x1@1ohm " . The cap has been grounded seperately from the yellow top - they each have there own , my system is running 4 ga. wire , power and ground .

ive narrowed it down to these few: optima yellow top(are there different models? g31 or something) svr 80-12 oddssey 1700 oddssey 2150 Deka intimidator oddssey = stinger, right? dont know how many of each i will run, i know tho if i run like the 1700, i would have to get more than if i run the 2150, since the 2150 is bigger right? as of now i have the 2 15" mts and 2 orion d5000's. im looking for a third of each, and POSSIBLY a 4th. i'd love to have 4 15" mts and 4 d5000's!!!!!

whats the best way to move my starter battery from under my hood to my cargo area? im gonna have airbags and theres not gonna be much room at ALL under there, so im gonna move my battery to the cargo, and just have all my batteries back there. should i just remove the little ring thing on the factory pos. wire and extend it to the rear of my car, and then just ground the battery somewhere in the back? or should i remove both pos and neg factory wires, and run a new pos wire to the rear(still grounding the battery somewhere in the back) if so, what ga. wire should i use? im kinda scared to do this cuase there is other things coming out of the pos factory wire under the hoo…

I've started looking at amps for my SPl set up so I know how much I need to save. I really dont want to spend more than $500 but i know that is kinda hard. Im looking for something that can drive my Ava at 4ohm well or 1ohm with the gains down and do some good SPL runs at 1ohm with my Custom Woofage DP. I was looking at the 20.1 but that is alot of money. Kicker, Orion, they all cost lots of money for lots of power. I know power cost money but does anyone know where i can get the hook up? Ive yet to talk to my GF's uncle about a kicker amp. assumeing i could get one what would be a good amp to suit my needs.

I'm wondering about the Orion 222 SX. Like this: I know it is rated for 22w X 2 @ 4 Ohms. Outside of that, however, I am somehow under the impression that the SX-series units would do somewhat over rated power and additionally would run at lower than expected resistance loads like the HCCA and XTR amps would? If I am mistaken about this please do correct my ignorance. If anyone knows the real output of this little guy or could maybe point me towards an installation/user's manual I would be greatly appreciative.

ok so i do think im gonna just install my new x889 by myself instead of having someone do it for 55 bucks....now i was wondering a couple of things here....they sent the wiring harness to me for free but i wont need that one since ive allready had one installed before right???just the small one that comes with the deck i will use to the one already in there? will butt connectors and some elec tape be fine to do the job with?? Let me know anything else or any help if i forgot anything. OK, now for the second diff part here.....ok i bought a dmm from home depot and i was trying to set my gains but it would never work,im gonna post a pic of it and you guys can tell me if its…

So after getting another battery that i had layin around and my trusty 250a battery charger, i hook the battery up backwards because someone decided they'd have a black wire for + ...lmao scared me a lil bit as sparks flew everywhere... Ok but i get it hooked up and it still cuts off as the charger has 12low, med, and high. High usually runs my voltage up to 16 and into dangerous levels, so i turn it up and then go turn the battery charger to high, and voila. I had the gain turned all the way down and my trunk was about to kome off. I'm not really quite sure if the SX's can take it,lol. I let it play for about 10mins, the cones were extremely hot, so i gave it a break. …

im gonna run dual alts, my stock one on the redtop for the starter battery, and then a 250a one im buying from kickinaudio for the system...i have 2 15" mt's and 2 orion d5000s. should i run stinger batts or svr? or what else is there? i was thinking the svr80-12's(maybe 2 of them?) or a stinger 2150? i want to get the most out of these amps. they will be running at 1 ohm for sure, possibly .5 ohm...idk yet. thanks, VJ.

I am redoing a car that has 2 concept cc-d2400's. I'm thinking about going with 2 cdx-20a's, are they strappable? what are the full specs, S/N, etc...? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

i used 4 guage because that what i'm working with

i finally got my subs hook up and my monoblock going....so i know most of you have your gains set at a quarter and so thats what i did at FIRST. The dmm gain settings way wasnt working for some reason it kept reading the same numbers with the music going and the music off. Anyways i left the gains at a quarter for now and listened to it and i couldnt even feel the subs at high volume so i turned it up to half just to see the difference and then right as you get to half this HUGE rumbling comes from my subs and its constant even if the music is on pause...and this did happen but not as loud when i had my other amp at 4ohms.can someone pls help me with this?? here was a cou…

My crossover have a problem so im selling it and don't know if i should buy a new crossover or signal processor or buy a pioneer player with 2/3 pre out? Cant afford alpine and dont like sony, it cant read all cd, Will a crossover/signal processor compensate for a normal h/U? im now using a pioneer deh1650 i think, the normal model

Ok i shoulda took pics, but hey.. So i have it hooked up @.5 ohms and well yea this system is alot louder than my PA3000db. but i have a slight problem, i'm guessing its an electrical issue, but... I can only turn the system up so far before a big bass note hits and its like the amp goes into protect and then comes right back on, say 2 secs later. SO is it wiring or electric? I'm going to hook the battery charger up to my car to check but any ideas? IT wangs dont get me wrong, but i just cant turn it up louder than a certain point..

Clarion DVD head unit with a 7 inch flip out monitor , 2x Kicker CVX 12 inch Dual 4 ohm (750rms) each wired to 1 ohm in a sealed box , Orion 2400D mono channel amp wired @ 1200 watts rms 1 ohm , Memphis M-class 4 channel 75 rms x 4 , Memphis 6x9 in the rear 85 rms each , Eclipse 5.25 inch 3 way components in the front . Optima red top under the hood , Optima yellow top in the trunk , and a Kinetics cap-killer equivelent to 100 1:farad caps . MY QUESTION IS - how do you know what frequency is best suited for your amp/sub setup - to get best spl/sq - or do you just play it by ear ?????????????

and I purchased an Eclipse XA2000 for my midbass/midrange. I'll post up pix and stuff when i get it. Has anyone played around with one of these 2-/multi-channel class Db amps yet? Oh and my batteries cell blew so I went ahead and purchased a optima yellow top while i was at it.

orion-2400watts-449$ http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI..._Pr4_PcY_BIN_IT MA-460$ http://cgi.ebay.com/MA-AUDIO-HK802SX-HK-80...1QQcmdZViewItem or i could save about 100$ and get that bx2006

Well, i dont have a problem but my dad and brother do. They are trying to hook up a new HU and it wont power up i guess. He said that after it not working when wired through the wiring harness, he hooked it up to a battery to see. Still wont power on, but he only hooked up like 3 wires... 12volt accessory, 12volt battery, and illumination. He only had those 3 wires hooked up so he could just test the radio. Do you need to connect all of them to get the radio to go on??

Well, my friend has recently been having issues with his electrical system. He currently has a red top and yellow top in the back. He reads around 14 volts up front but his battery in the rear (not isolated) reads at 12.5 volts?! The battery in the front and rear both read at 12.5 with car off. Any clue what could be causing this issue?

Does anyone have exp with PPI's PCX-4125? There is a pretty good deal on ebay right now for one and it would fit my needs pretty well for powering both my kodas and ID's cx62's. Any comments, thoughts about the amp? Just wondering if I should snag one or look elsewhere. thx

Anyone remember these? RFX8250? The major HU boner from a year or two ago? Anyway, I bought one on sale from Sounddomain and have been using it for maybe a year and a half. The other day, the aux input suddenly decided to stop working, and I don

I might be in the market for one in a few months and was wondering whats the consensous around here to get a great H.O.

You know, like JL Audio Slash series & Eclipse XA series...

Ive been looking at some car audio companies that make very good quality gear. Ive noticed that the majority of them have caps for sale. Now, you think from reading all this stuff about them, they are bad ect ect that these high end companies wouldnt sell them. But there must be a reason. Just about every amp out there is filled with them. So why not add another ? Is a 1 farad cap better than 2 0.5 farad caps ? What about cap banks, 30, 40 farads ? Im, not about to go out and buy one I didnt bother posting this on ca.com because i know everyone will say caps are junk blah blah blah. Ive read that they can be helpful if your electrical system is up to par ( mine is )