Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

In my next build i want to do something other than a ordinary heaunit. I was thinking about something along the line of a android headunit,tablet, or even a carputer. What would it take for something like this to work?

I just picked up a alpine 7949 full copper chassis, anyone used one before?? I know its a flagship SQ unit.. along the 7909 line, just curious to views and opinions thanks, Joe

hi im going to another comp on the 1st (sunday). ive been running this amp @ 2ohms with my 4 12's. the ams specs are: 1100@4ohm 1800@2ohm 2300@1ohm 3000@ MAX well n e way, i was thinking bout running all 4 12's down to .5ohms. how long do u think i would have b4 the amp went into protection or overheated? i called up PA and they said that they never tested it at .5ohms. thanks.

Hey guys, I came across a USA 442 and picked it up for a real nice price. Before I did, I wrote to US Amps and asked for some background on the amp. Someone named Jeff Coleman replied and gave me some info on the amp..... some power specs, production run, etc. But, he commented that the 442 had an interesting and complicated crossover and that if I couldn't get an original owner's manual that I should run an outboard crossover with the amp. Anybody got any comments? Advice? Experience with the amp? Thanks in advance.

wiring two yellows! one red one black two yellows! i have never seen this before.

Hey I got an amp that says its minimum impedance bridged is 4 ohms, and will produce 1000w at 4 ohms bridged. Ive been running 2 dual 4 ohm subs to make the 4 ohms bridged mode, but due to power limitations I want to take out one of the subs so I can get more power to push a single sub. Since the amp does 1000w bridged at 4 ohms, would it be safe to assume that if I wired a single sub to run at 8 ohms, it would produce 500w rms bridged? Edit: by power limitations I mean I'm running my stock 80 amp alternator, no spare battery and no big 3. so my subs have to split somewhere around 400 watts, id rather just push one at 400 watts than 2 at 200.

I currently have one d2 ohm rl-p 18 and a saz1000d in my lincoln towncar, but i am about to get an izuzu rodeo due to me getting it for free and because my lincoln gets 10 mpgs. lol. but what i want to know is if i get one more d2 ohm 18 and one more saz1000d, could i strap the amps and power the 18's at 2 ohms? im confused with the strapping thing. thanks.

i am lookin for a new hu that will allow me to play music and videos from my iphone and charge it at the same time.. i would like to stay below the $350. it can fit a 2din in my truck but would rather it be a single din.. ur help will be greatly appreciated

hi guys have a question. i went threw some car audio stuff my brother owned back in 98 before he pass away and never knew about this stuff tell now. and i see he had this rockford fosgate 4040 dsm 4 channel amp that still work's and was told that this amp is a beast. but my question is what is the true rms rating per channel on this amp.

Has anyone used this amp before? Im looking for a new amp to run my 2 12 inch pioneer ts-w3002d4 subs at 1 ohm. Subs are 1000 rms each.

Hey guys im looking to try out the maxx link but i have a question for ya. Im gonna be running 4 kicker zx2500.1 amps and 2 18in Btl dual 1 ohm subs. The zx amps are 2 ohm stable and i was wondering if there is any possible configuration to have the amps see a 2ohm load once strapped. Also would i be better without the maxx link and running each amp to each coil? What ohm loads could i see there. thanks

Hey all. The topic pretty much states it all. I've got a 225 amp EA alt and 13.6 idle voltage isn't cutting it. If anyone knows of a VCM or way to simply increase voltage I'd really appreciate it. Thanks!

I have two sundown Sa-12s on a saz-1500d v.3 and a stock alt and battery. I'm probably in my car for an hour a day and i don't always have it turned up. Someone told me i can wire it at 1 ohm but to set the gain down. I have the big three so would this even be safe and if so what would i set the gain too?

I have had this system for over a year and it has been working fine until I got a short on the remote wire coming from my amp and going into the remote IN on the lc2i. It shut my system off, so I installed a new remote wire. once I installed the new remote wire my system worked again however I woke up the next day to find my battery was dead. It turns out I accidentally had a few strands of wire coming off of the lc2i's remote IN and touching the 12v port causing my amp to stay on all night. My issue is that when I properly install the wire into the remote IN port, It no longer turns my amp on. Could the remote IN port on the lc2i be bad or am I missing something else tha…

Anyone have the specs or a link to TRU's new Steel line, Tru's webpage does not have the latest models. Interested in spec's on the S45. Was told to look on diyma but only found the S44 specs. Thanks

So awhile ago I had a battery isolator installed on my tahoe and I'd like to remove it...It's bolted onto the plastic fuse housing, as in inside the fuse housing there's nuts securing the bolts... Any idea how to get to those nuts so I can remove it and put a fuse holder there instead? Thanks

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-9FMZONgTcX2/p_500CDA9847/Alpine-CDA-9847.html I need a simple deck for my budget build & I found one of these for $95. It's an '05 model, but it looks mint. Opinions?I'm gonna be running a 2-channel & monoblock. Undecided on the 6.5'' components for the front, but I have an SA-12 for sub duty. I've ran the CDA 9813, 9886, & 9855 but right now I'm just looking for a simple setup.

So i replaces my stocker with a yellow top. I want to run a second battery as well, unisolated. I was advised against using the stock one with the yellow top. Ive been seeing builds where people do though. Are there issues here that i teally need to be concerned with or not? I believe the stock is an AC. Delco. Eventually when cag allows it i will match batteries but would this be ok for now?

i have the audiocontrol DQXS & EPICENTER & MATRIX how do i connect them 3 together ????

I have a yellow top under the hood with the big 3 done in stinger 1/0 an a run of stinger 1/0 to the rear batts. One is a kinetik hc 1400 to a hc 1200 so 2600 total. Wired to two kicker zx1000.1 my question is the one single run of stinger 1/0 to the rear OK? It's ofc .

I have a couple questions. First, I will tell you what I have. I have a ported box w/ 2 12's they are DB drive PLW12D4's and each sub has its own amp and the amps are Crunch Pzi 1500.1. I also have a yellow top battery under the hood, a 200 amp alternator, a kinetik 800 battery in the trunk, and a 3.0 farad cap. Ok now I am thinking about adding another 12" DB drive, a sundown 1500 amp, and a custom box which I am thinking of having it made to the specs of the subs and 32Hz. I have a 1997 Ford Thunderbird. Also I have about 36 inches for the face of the box to be so the box fits in the trunk. I am looking for SPL. I use the car as a driver but also take it to show…

I have a strange problem with my hu...the remote and touch screen stop working but all the buttons on the hu itself is still working properly. what can be the problem?

I picked up a new starting battery today. I replaced my old volcano type battery with a Diehard Gold AGM Group 34. I picked it up for 141.00, now down to 131.00. My research tells me that these are rebranded DEKA's, which should be good quality. It seems that Group 31's are the rule for battery banks, but I can't squeeze in three batteries. Would 3 diehard gold group 34's plus one up front be enough reserve for 5-5.5 kW? I know XS's are king, but I need to save where I can. I will also have a MECHman 220A installed as soon as I get in new battery terminals. P.S. Anyone have personal experience with diehard gold AGM's?

so we got everything put in, and long story short, the subs just make a popping sound about every second...kinda funny Ive never heard it before. we wired up one sub to the mid amp and it beats for only 400 watts. so is my amp shot? power supply....? this would be the second time Ive got shafted on an orion 2500d, and I'm about to give up.

Do not purchase these amps from the ebay seller riversidetrade they are defective. They were never supposed to be released to the public. The heat sink is to small causing them to overheat and fail. On the good ones the heat sink extends out beyond the case. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...;Category=39739