Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

For my birthday, my girlfriend bought me a brand spanking new Eclipse 5425 HU. I chose to install it because I was ripping everything out in order to lay down wiring for new speakers and amp. And I just really like doing that stuff myself. The problem is this... Sometimes the display and buttons don't light up and are inoperative. The stereo still plays, but you can only adjust the volume level and change stations. You cant insert or eject a cd, change any functions, or even tilt the screen. Other times every thing works just fine and dandy like it should. There doesn't seem to be any patern to when it does this. I have triple checked my wiring and made sure th…

I have a factory system in my new Explorer and do not want to go through installing my cd player right now. I want to keep it all stock except unhook the 8"sub in the back, run the signal to my amp and have my two 15s back there. How would I do this?? Could I simply hook a LOC to the wires that went to the 8"?? Or would the power that is run through that be too much for an LOC, or does it even matter? Quick Quick with the help if you can please, going to try and get this done by tomorrow. Thanks much.

Hello ppl does anyone onwn this amp I want to purchase one from the net...How good is the sound quality ? I'll be using it on coxials speak. or can someone also recommend me an amp let's say about 50 rms per channel .... and budget around $150 thanks to all

I'm looking into the 8455, but Eclipse has the worst site in the world with little info. I'm wondering if the aux input is direct connection, or do you need an adapter like on Pioneer and Alpine? Also, anyone friends with any dealers that will ship to me? The local dealer here is horrible and I refuse to give them my business. Thanks!

Well, my Avionixx 4ch died on me, so while I'm having it refurbed, I think I'm going to go ahead and upgrade. Right now I'm looking at an Eclipse E4000, it's rated at 100w x4 @ 4 ohm but the guy at a local shop says he thinks it does more like 85w...I believe him too. Anyway, does anyone have any opinions on their amps? I want this to last me a LONG time, not just a year like the Avionixx... http://www.smartcart.com/alneds/cgi/displa...item_num=EA4000 The shop is charging 320~325 out the door or I could get it 225 shipped off egay. Anyhow, opinions please! I want to purchase soon (like today)... I WAS gonna go with a PG Xenon 100x4 but it's too big.

right now my battery is grounded to the front of the drivers side head (which is aluminum) i get a bit of noise every now and again through the front speakers and probably inaudibly through the woofers. the passenger side head is grounded to the chassis, above the motor. its all 4 gauge. i'll get a better ground by grounding the battery directly to the chassis right? then i just leave the head grounded above the engine the way it is? i know it needs to be bare metal, but can i just ground it anywhere thats metal on the body of my car, or does it need to be directly to the frame?

i need an amp that is 600w rms @ 4 ohm. or anything that will power a 15" tempest nicely. dual 8 ohm sub. thanks!

i put in my new 200 amp from the group buy at ca.com forums. when over 950 rpm or so, it is awesome, rarely ever drops from 13.5 volts and when it does, not under 13. (going by my dash gauge anyhow) under 950 though, the voltage will drop almost to the red, to around 9.. red is at 7.5 or 8. having the stereo up drops it almost another half volt. either way, that is way low voltage. i could just turn my idle rpm up to 950 but it would burn more gas, and i like the rumble of a healthy v8 idling around 700 rpm. i do not have my optima yellow top in yet, waiting on terminals. im using an old, cheap, autozone battery, with 4 gauge run to the back split into 2 8 gauge wires. …

I'm a little bit confused about how to wire the RCA's. They have basically 6 sets of preamp outputs with some labeled mid, highs but also some sets labeled positive and negative. The manual isn't too detailed about using the pro setup except to connect all of them. I am going to be running tweets and mids up front and mids in the back. Plus a sub(which it has 2 pairs of outputs to as well for some reason). I will post some pix if necessary. Thanks for any help you guys can provide. I'm trying to get this done tomorrow as i will be working til 10 pm tonight.

well after a long and painful 8 months of design and thought----Pioneer P9 combo is what I have decided on. just letting you guys know----it shouldn't be too much long till I am dropping pics all over this forum of the install.

Picked this thing up from Finebar over at crapaudio.com Overhead Angle Imputs Outputs And some pr0n for all you pervs As required by the TOS, my dog. Only took pics of 1 dog because if i take pics of my black dog he just looks like a blob. Bell The quality of the pictures isnt the greatest because its a 1.3MP camera and it has no flash.

i'm thinking of getting a second eD nine.1. they're 900 watts stable at 2 ohm, and 1200 at 1 ohm. if possible i'd like to run them both at one ohm, im pretty sure i have the electrical system for it. question is, if i wire a dual 4 ohm voice coil sub by itself to the amp its either at 4 or 2 ohms right? no way to get 1 ohm load from a single d4 woofer? could someone maybe give me a crash course in wiring? i think i would need d2 woofers to get 1 ohm from 1 speaker right?

Is it possible that the 900 d can out do the memphis amp? Thinking about going all powerbass. Switched from my f-150 to a xterra. 3db jump to a 144.5. Hoping to get better going with all powerbass. Thanks

Are alpine amps worth buying? are they good?

I saw a link that Ryan posted in the ihop for a Directed 1100d5 that does 75x4 at 4 ohms and 600x1 at 1 ohm on the sub channel. It doesn't say anything about bridging the amp, but I was wondering if the amp would work if I wired it to where the left side was on 2 channels of the amp and the right channel was on 2 channels of the amp. This would be kind of like bridging it, but running a wire in all 4 pieces. I think if I bridge it, it would put out too much power. Has anyone ever done this? It is sounding like it won't work or will be bad for the amp, but I am not sure.

i read the tutorial, but im having some trouble. im not getting anywhere near the voltage i should be with my dmm, and its NEGATIVE! of course im doing it wrong, but i need someone to talk me through it. could one of you pm me a phone number so i can call you? should only take a couple minutes, im sure its just something simple im messing up. would really appreciate it. thanks, Shaun

i need to get an 0/1 gauge distibution block with 3 or 4 4 gauge outs. i plan to run 8 gauge into one of the outputs, to my 35x4, this wont be a problem right? been looking at the blocks on ebay and i found a couple that look alright to me that aren't too expensive but thought i'd get some opinions before i buy some piece of chit and it wastes one of my amps. heres what i was looking at, does it look about like what i need, or is it with it to go with a stinger? is one fuse as good as another? in some auctions they say midis are better, but seems to me as long as it blows at its rated amps a fuse is a fuse. opinions? http://cgi.ebay.com/EFX-1-0-GA-4-way-DIGIT...1QQcmdZVi…

im going with a 200 amp alternator from excessive amperage in the ca group buy. its going in an 87 trans am daily driver with a kenwood 35x4 and an eD nine.1, going to do the big 3, have an optima yellow top 31, and run 0/1 gauge wire back to a distributor and 4 gauge to the amps. for daily driving, im wanting a small case not a large one right? large is more for spl vehicles that sit and idle as they burp correct? my car idles around 750-800 right now because i have a minor vacuum leak but once i track it down and fix it should be more like 600-650 idle.

when running 2 dual 4 ohm woofers to a 1 ohm load, do you have to connect the wires that go to the amp both to the same woofer? or can you put the positive on one speaker and the negative on the other?

i just hooked my system up, and every now and then, when i have it turned up, both my amps shut down, like the remote was coming undone at the deck. deck stays on and all, amps dont give me protect lights they just turn off for a few seconds and come back on (not always off for the same length of time) my electrical system is all stock, i believe its only a 105 amp alternator, 4 gauge wire back to the distributor, and 8 gauge to the amps. any ideas?

Is this ok or a no-no? I just added 4 gauge wire in addition to the factory wire(wired it to the same spot and sanded paint off the ground) and replaced the factory battery terminal blocks with stinger ones.

I was driving to work and all the sound went off. So when I got to work I turned on the radio, went in the trunk and checked the amps for power and they were getting none. I am guessing that the problem is with the remote. If the remote on the head is in fact dead is there a way to fix it. Is it an easy thing, like maybe a trace on the circuit board? Or is it a big PITA? Could it be something else? What would make both amps suddenly stop getting power?

I will be running a little over 1000 watts rms, probably around 1200, will there be the need to get an optima yellow top?

I guess the title should be schock sensor but the one i have no has an integrated one. I'm getting ready to put in a PYTHON881XP in the next couple weeks... my alarm I have in right now is a directed automate am5... i have it ziptied to my steering column(I know its a no no)... so where do you guys mount yours?

I was wondering... Are there any amps in production that have: Class A: Left & Right channels Class D: Power stage for a subwoofer. All in one package / Amp case? If there isn`t. Is there any reason why this couldn`t be done or hasn`t been done yet?