Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

i read the tutorial, but im having some trouble. im not getting anywhere near the voltage i should be with my dmm, and its NEGATIVE! of course im doing it wrong, but i need someone to talk me through it. could one of you pm me a phone number so i can call you? should only take a couple minutes, im sure its just something simple im messing up. would really appreciate it. thanks, Shaun

i need to get an 0/1 gauge distibution block with 3 or 4 4 gauge outs. i plan to run 8 gauge into one of the outputs, to my 35x4, this wont be a problem right? been looking at the blocks on ebay and i found a couple that look alright to me that aren't too expensive but thought i'd get some opinions before i buy some piece of chit and it wastes one of my amps. heres what i was looking at, does it look about like what i need, or is it with it to go with a stinger? is one fuse as good as another? in some auctions they say midis are better, but seems to me as long as it blows at its rated amps a fuse is a fuse. opinions? http://cgi.ebay.com/EFX-1-0-GA-4-way-DIGIT...1QQcmdZVi…

I decided on the elemental designs nine.1 - i've heard some pretty good things about it and decided to give it a shot. good decision or bad? let me know what you guys think

im going with a 200 amp alternator from excessive amperage in the ca group buy. its going in an 87 trans am daily driver with a kenwood 35x4 and an eD nine.1, going to do the big 3, have an optima yellow top 31, and run 0/1 gauge wire back to a distributor and 4 gauge to the amps. for daily driving, im wanting a small case not a large one right? large is more for spl vehicles that sit and idle as they burp correct? my car idles around 750-800 right now because i have a minor vacuum leak but once i track it down and fix it should be more like 600-650 idle.

when running 2 dual 4 ohm woofers to a 1 ohm load, do you have to connect the wires that go to the amp both to the same woofer? or can you put the positive on one speaker and the negative on the other?

I was wondering... Are there any amps in production that have: Class A: Left & Right channels Class D: Power stage for a subwoofer. All in one package / Amp case? If there isn`t. Is there any reason why this couldn`t be done or hasn`t been done yet?

Is this ok or a no-no? I just added 4 gauge wire in addition to the factory wire(wired it to the same spot and sanded paint off the ground) and replaced the factory battery terminal blocks with stinger ones.

I was driving to work and all the sound went off. So when I got to work I turned on the radio, went in the trunk and checked the amps for power and they were getting none. I am guessing that the problem is with the remote. If the remote on the head is in fact dead is there a way to fix it. Is it an easy thing, like maybe a trace on the circuit board? Or is it a big PITA? Could it be something else? What would make both amps suddenly stop getting power?

I guess the title should be schock sensor but the one i have no has an integrated one. I'm getting ready to put in a PYTHON881XP in the next couple weeks... my alarm I have in right now is a directed automate am5... i have it ziptied to my steering column(I know its a no no)... so where do you guys mount yours?

I will be running a little over 1000 watts rms, probably around 1200, will there be the need to get an optima yellow top?

http://audioforum.termpro.com/ubb/ultimate...0/t/011112.html im posting this here s if anybody needed to know.......... jamie

Not washed, waxed, or detailed Before Everything plastic that has to come out (doesn't have to but gives you working room) Naked Can you see the difference? 2 bolts later All buttoned up Now for the bad news, when I opened the box up, a little black plastic tab fell out, but I didn't think anything of it. After getting it all in there, I fired up the truck and no voltage showed up. I put the stocker back in there and opened up the black plastic cover on the new one and discovered the stators all bent up from shipping. Whatta bummer!!!! I called up Nate, told him the deal, the new one went back to him today for sameday turn around when he gets it. He w…

Mine shipped with Bamaboy's but took a little longer to make the trip to Denver. 250 amps of pure fury....freakin more power than I got going in my house Its cold and raining today......perfect for doing this little project As soon as I finish my I will drag my tired butt outside and git-r-done, with pics of course . I worked 90 hours last week so bear with me, I may fall out at any point, but today is mine to do whatever the hell I feel like, and working on my truck sounds like a winner to me

well i was examining my alternator today, and this is the one im gonna send in for exessive amperage to mod. the area circled in red is the place where the wiring harnesses goes to connect to everywhere and it doesnt look like i can run 1/0 gauge, and if i keep the stock wire, for sure it will catch fire. Comments, ideas?

I have an Orion 2500d and 2 Rl-p 15s ported to 31 hz in 5 cubes. Its really loud, but it seems like the subs arent really working that hard/moving that far. Like when I play low notes like Lil Scrappy "No Problems" my whole car shakes but when I watch the subs they barely move. I am running a stock alternator and I think that is a big problem because my amp isnt putting out anywhere near full power. Would a 160 amp alt. be enough or should I save for a 200 or 220 amp alt. I think Im going deaf too. How much improvement am I going to see with an alt.?

You guys pick. Memphis amp or Viper amp. Viper claims to put out more power, the memphis is rated at 1100 but birth sheets that I have seen prove that it can put out 1200-1300 watts. I kinda thought it would look cool to have matching memphis amps. Just want to get more thoughts. Memphis http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_3002.html# Product Description: 1100W RMS Class-D Monoblock Subwoofer Amplifier Custom Black Pearl Finish Fully Variable Low-Pass Filter: 50 - 250 Hz, 18 dB/Oct Variable Subsonic Filter: 20 - 50 Hz Bass Boost: 0 - 18 dB Gold-Plated RCA Connectors 4 Gauge Power Wire Capability Wired Remote Gain Control Power and Protection LEDs Thermal, Short Circuit, an…

anyone ever had experience with hifonics? i've heard a lot of trash talking and underrating, but still even if it's underrated, it would be only pushing around 1000 or so... that's still a good deal for only 180$ but if these amps just absolutely suck, is there any amp someone could suggest in the 250$ range that would produce about 1000 watts rms? thanks a lot

what did ups just bring...uh ohh is it a.... new alt? from excessive amperage 200a large case one i hope no one that works for UPS needed an alt, i wonder if ths box has an alt in it? packaging was good look at it :naughty: another pic of side back side will install sometime soon, maybe tonight or tomorrow or sunday when ever

This is how my boat is wired as of now. 2 ga. from the alt (pos) and the neg. (don't know where it is grounded but most likely the engine somehwere). These are connected to the starting battery. Then I have additional 2ga cables running in series to the aftermarket stereo battery (a deka intimidator), off of this is where my 4 ga. amp wires run (pos and neg in the same fashion). My question has to do with the grounding. I would guess that it would be better to ground my aftermarket battery directly to some big ass piece of metal (but alas only fiberglass around) and the same goes for my amps. It seems that all the ground is running all the way back to the starting batte…

i was talkin to my dad about doin the big 3 with an HO alt on my car and he said goin from the alt to the engine would be a problem, cuz the stock wire has to go thru some kinda box, maybe circuitbreaker or fusebox? iono. this is gonna usin 1/0 gauge wire. 1st step of my 3rd system overhaul. thanks for your help pple!

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=343

I currently have a P550MP (see sig) its a premier line, wma/mp3 capable, i believe 2.2V outputs (3 total) etc. etc. and was wondering if it would be worth it in SQ and features and just overall to spend the money to upgrade HU's? i would be buying the 860 used so i would be paying 200 ish...thanx for all the help...

i was thinking of adding a mp3 player to my car, i was either thinking ipod mini or creative zen micro, im leaaning toward zen micro now and getting that napster to go and just fill it up with songs, which is hard to beat for getting most any song on there(unless anyone has used it and can say different) although i would like an ipod because of the adapter that will show what song is playing and i can hide the ipod and just use cd player, but no upload of songs with it , gotta buy them old fashion way or used p2p but i was planing on getting this http://www.crutchfield.com/S-F46N3x...asp?I=130CDRB10 for the zen or this for ipod http://www.crutchfield.com/S-F46N3x...sp?I=1…

As most of you know, i picked up pioneer 9300 from ebay for a nice cheap price. However, it is DOA..im out $80 Anywhoo... I put the faceplate on my friends 9300, the one that had the face stolen. This was its replacement. The H/U powers up fine, display works, no imfamous line in it. However, i cant use any of the buttons. Nor the remote. Ive reset it, cleaned the points with some glass cleaner, didnt have rubbing alcohol. Still nothing. Does anyone have any idea why it doesnt work ? The older unit worked flawessly, so i know its not the H/U

What size alt do you suggest? 99 blazer with power acoustik a3000db and power acoustik 0v2-400 2300rms +85x2rms+regular electronics they have a group buy over a ca.com and i need a new alt so what do you think? i dont really want the small case, but i dont know yet im about to call him and get prices but is 200a enough for my setup, i have a everstart maxx batt up front so what do you guys think