Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

anyone have any luck switching to a smaller alternator pulley? Were there any noticeable gains in output?

Here' s my current setup. Alpine 9885 (4V) Front: CDT CL-62 (160RMS) w/ Soundstream Rubicon 2.600 (180x2 @ 4ohm) Rear: CDT CL-69X (100RMS) w/ Soundstream Rubicon 2.250 (75x2 @ 4ohm) Fi BTL 12" D2, loaded (2000RMS) Soundstream Rubicon 1.2500 (2500 @ 1ohm) I want to add a duplicate set of CL-62 up front. The 2.600 amp is rated for 300x2 @ 2ohms as well. So I assume, wire the crossovers in parallel from the amp. + to + and - to -. That would yield a 2ohm load from the amplifier giving me how many watts per component at 4ohm each?

Ok, I recently bought a blown sax 100.4 relatively cheap. I did not need it, but wanted to see if I can fix it. I know it needs new rca inputs as one is broken, but I believe it needs a mosfet (that is my guess I have yet to do any testing). Before I go any further where can I purchase amplifier parts from knowing that they are quality parts and exactly what I need. Again this is just something I have wanted to take a crack at for awhile and a lot of people probably think this is stupid, but I am hard headed and like to tear things apart and rebuild them. Lol

I'm going to be doing a big three. I'm going to have 1-2 batteries in the bed of my truck. I've got to wire up the Orion 2500D, which is also going to be in the bed of my truck. Theres gunna be a camper shell over my bed, and the rear window taken out of the cab,and the front window out of the camper shell, and the box/amp/batteries is gunna be in the bed. Should I just buy so much, like 25ft or what? What gauge or gauges should I use? I can't remember what the amp can accept in regards to power wire size.

i was looking for some good batts to match up with a audiopipe 3000 and a 200 amp alt. i was checkin out the kinetiks on ebay they seem to be good for the price. im not to sure about some other brands out there really just kinetik and xs power is all i know of . i am on a budget as i only make min wage. 200-280 is all i want to spend on batteries

I need some new battery terminals for the optima red top under the hood. I currently have some nice tsunami terminals. They have 2 0 gauge inputs and 2 8gauhe inputs. Id like terminals with 3 or 4 0 gauge inputs and 2 8 gauge inputs. Can some hook me up? Help is much appreciated Fellas!

Hey all! I was wondering your guy's opinion on the best double dinn dvd/cd player with a good customizable EQ, HPF, and LPF (would consider a single with a pop out screen). Any input would be greatly appreciated!

When using 2 batteries, what wiring setup is the best way to get the most out of both batteries? Thanks in advance.

Hey guys, looking for a nice headunit for my 2005 Prius (don't judge) Looking to do a sub install soon enough as well. Any suggestons on a nice headunit? Budget around $150

I came across Powersurge batteries on the net and after reading over the page and talking to the owner they seem to be pretty legit batts. Im posting this because I want to hear from people who have used them, knows someone who has used them and so on. What do you think of these batts? Legit? Pros? Cons?

Trying to get my brother a decent HU with at least 4 volt preouts, ipod combatibility that works and with connector included preferably, and a decent user interface. Needs to be under $160 after shipping. I've looked at just about everything and I'm stuck between these two. A Pioneer Premier DEH-410UB or Clarion CZ500. The only bad thing about the pioneer is it has terrible control reviews (thumbstick very sensitive etc.) which is why I even looked at the clarion. Clarion: CZ500 - Clarion In-Dash CD/MP3/WMA Receiver, Front Panel Aux-In, Bluetooth Pioneer: DEH-P410UB - Pioneer Premier MP3/WMA/WAV/iTunes AAC Reciever ALSO, very open to any suggestions anyone might have! Loo…

Well yesterday i bought a Eclipse avn5500 for 25 bucks. Well after a quick call to eclipse to make sure it wasnt stolen i got bored and decided to hook it up in my truck. Well after I booted it up it said insert map disk.. well that's where i am stuck I am finding them on ebay for about 100 bucks any body have a spare floating around? Also what is the opinions of this H/u?

I have a 90 amp alt and will be driving a 12 btl with a dtr1 2200d soundstream amp that as a 200 amp fuse and a audiobahn a6601t that as 80 amp fuse i have a 3 farad cap and im going to buy a back up battery but i dont know wich one yet i will also buy an isolator but im wainting to see if i have to change my alternator...everything is going to be wired with 0 gauge and i changed my car battery ground and my motor ground for 0 gauge and added a extra wire from my alt to my batt. wainting for ya reply to get this thing loaded

I have a 160amp alt, SHURiKEN SK-BT60 (Cranking Amp 1500, Amp Hours 60) under the hood and I want to run a saz1500 at .5ohm with 2 more 300 watt amps and have a stable voltage around 12+. Would 1 sk-bt20(20 AH, 850 Cranking Amp) be enough, what are your recommendations or thoughts? also 2 sk-bt20s would be the same price as 1 sk-bt35 (35 AH, 950 Cranking Amp)

I am looking to get a new head unit. I wanted to ask the experts first. Is this one any good? 4 volt preamps. 6 channel preamp outputs. etc. http://outlet.crutchfield.com/p_613KDCX494/Kenwood-Excelon-KDC-X494.html?ssi=0&tp=13566&tab=features_and_specs

Ok so I have saved my jack and Im ready to buy an alt but wondering which one. I will be buying from mechman and want to know what u guys think. My system will include the SAZ-4500d, SAX-100.4, and maybe the SAX-50.4. Matt has a 200 amp (125 idle) alt BNIB by powermaster for 225 plus ship or a 250 amp rhino series (150 idle) BNIB for 299. I cant remember if the ship is included or not but the latter is part of his July sale. My budget tells me to get the 200 but I know I SHOULD get the 250 rhino. I need to buy this by the end of this week because I wont likely find these prices anytime soon anywhere else. Whatcha think fellas?

I am needing to upgrade my battery, but would like to know which setup is better since they cost roughly the same amount. First I will be running an American Pro VS-1407 and a Sundown SAE-1200Dv2. I plan to upgrade my starting battery. So would it be better for the car and the stereo to run a Duralast Gold up front and a Kinetik HC800 in the back OR to run only a Kinetik HC1800?

whats up everyone? so heres a question that i guess is kinda noobish. i recently had some problems with my deck, and after trying to remount it and clean the laser i decided its time to upgrade, so i did. i went from a pioneer deh-3800mp to a deh-4000ub i had in my other vehicle. now, from what i gather, the 4000 is a more powerful output. that said, when i plugged everything in it was significantly louder at the same volume (35). my question is, should i readjust the gains on my amp? i've been fiddling with the deck (still trying to fine tune this one 2Q 1Q 1W 2W stuff), and i can significantly reduce the sub volume, but i'm wondering, should i lower the gains on…

Today I'm going over to Best Buy to buy a new head unit. I would normally buy from Crutchfield or Amazon but I don't want to mess up my new car. Anyway there were a few different ones that I was looking at and I wanted some opinions on them. Here are the ones I was looking at: JVC KDHDR20 JVC KD-HDR50 Kenwood KDC-MP242 Sony CDXGT540UI I'm also open to suggestions. Thanks. By the way, I have a Chevrolet Malibu.

I was checking out this amp. I remember hearing nothing but good things about their stuff years ago, nothing recently. but I hadnt heard of SSA, sundown, Fi, or... either seen it usually for 260 and up, ikesound has it for 199. Ive seen ratings listed anywhere from 990-1150 watts RMS into 1 ohm. their website as a link to there amps but is loading a blank page for me right now, so I also cant find out if it has a SSF? they any good? put out true ratings? underrated?

Hey so...what kinda amp would anybody recommend for the Fi BT12" Subwoofer?

Lately my cars "radio" fuses have been blowing not the fuse on the hu but the cars radio fuse. First time the fuse blew when I first turned the car on.. Which was weird since I never had a fuse go out on me since I had the hu a year or so now. So I went and pick up more fuses (8amp Volvos standard) put one in worked fine at idle went down the road turned the hu volume up half way and just as the bass hit the fuse popped!. So the next day I took the hu out looked around checked ground power etc nothing was wrong ( besides a big mess Of wires and rcas) placed another fuse in with the hu out and banged on it for 20mins zero problems. Put it all back in. Worked perfect for 4…

Hey everyone! im new to the forum, but i decided since i purchased my amp from ssa that this would be the forum id make my account on. ive got a sundown saz-1000d pushing 2 alpine type r 10"s at 1ohm along with a 3.5 farad cap. in a 1993 ford tempo I got bored one day and decided to do the big 3 upgrade with some JL 4 awg i had lying around in my room. for some reason i feel unsure about the wire i have going from the engine to the chassis, and was wondering if it'd be ok running a wire from the alternator cage to the chassis instead? if doing this is it still ok to leave the stock engine to chassis wire? is this even possible? or will i just run into electrical problems…

Does anyone have any experience with these? Or the line. I used to run The old SPL's SPL160s and the Rubi 1002. Did very well with them. I know epsilon owns them now. Do they do rated, Efficient, Will they run at .67 or .5 Ohm? any and all help is appreciated. Price wise and Numbers they look good but after Carrying and running American Bass and Power bass Amplifiers it's kinda hard to deviate.

sorry wrong forum will repost under speaker