Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Trying to get my brother a decent HU with at least 4 volt preouts, ipod combatibility that works and with connector included preferably, and a decent user interface. Needs to be under $160 after shipping. I've looked at just about everything and I'm stuck between these two. A Pioneer Premier DEH-410UB or Clarion CZ500. The only bad thing about the pioneer is it has terrible control reviews (thumbstick very sensitive etc.) which is why I even looked at the clarion. Clarion: CZ500 - Clarion In-Dash CD/MP3/WMA Receiver, Front Panel Aux-In, Bluetooth Pioneer: DEH-P410UB - Pioneer Premier MP3/WMA/WAV/iTunes AAC Reciever ALSO, very open to any suggestions anyone might have! Loo…

So I have a friend that wants to replace her amp and sub that came with her 07 Ford Edge. The sub sucks and the amp just doesn't have enough power for her. Is there a way to install an after market amp wihout having to buy a processor like a RF 3sixty or AudioContro DSP? Sorry if this is a silly question, I would like to tell her all her options. Thanks.

i have the audiocontrol DQXS & EPICENTER & MATRIX how do i connect them 3 together ????

Anyone ever tried this amp? It looks old to me but I kinda like it. Hour meter for use, voltage remote meter and remote bass knob (well thats not that cool because most amps have them but the voltage meter is pretty cool), pretty good power and stuff. I wonder if it puts out the rated power? http://www.techronics.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=3070 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_12363_...1200DA+R-B.html IDK, just looking around.

I finally got my DC Power Inc 250amp alternator and switchable MLA module installed. I now have 250amps (140 at idle) available at 15.6 volts sweeeeeeet. I just have to clean up the wires and I'll start a build log with pics. Now I need to run power wires to the trunk and start building the enclosure and kicks.

any on here have any experiance with a phase linear uv8? i have someone local that wants to sell one for 150 and i figure that is a pretty good deal unless they are junk any one had one or heard anything with one

So while I was deployed to the middle east I acquired my car audio equipment. But now I'd like to know what amp alternators and batteries would work best for my system. I'll be running a 15 BTL off of a Soundstream DTR2200 which should push 2200 watts to 1 ohm. I'll also have a 4 channel Soundstream amp pushing 100 watts a piece to 4 6.5s in the doors of my Tahoe. It'll be ran off of a Pioneer deck. I've heard al lot about Optima batteries but have read mixed reviews on them. As far as alternators, I'm open to any decent brand that audiophiles have had luck with. Thanks in advance for the help.

When using 2 batteries, what wiring setup is the best way to get the most out of both batteries? Thanks in advance.

ok, im starting to upgrade my eletrical before i start doing my system. and i may add a second battery. ( i can fit a powermaster 3100d underhood ) and if add it. i was wondering if instead of running the positve and the negitave wire directly to each battery if i could run them to distribution blocks instead and go from the distribution blocks to the amps. i already have a 1/0 ground run and a 1/0 postive run. and i will get 1 sax100.2 @ 3 ohms. 1 sax 125.2 at 4 ohm. and a either a saz or sae1000d. so roughly 1500 rms total. but my truck only has a stock 90 amp alt. and i doing big 3 is 2/0 guage wire. ( it's welding wire)

opinions?

Any opinions/experience with Eclipse's XA series amplifiers??? http://www.eclipse-web.com/amp/xa1000.html

Here' s my current setup. Alpine 9885 (4V) Front: CDT CL-62 (160RMS) w/ Soundstream Rubicon 2.600 (180x2 @ 4ohm) Rear: CDT CL-69X (100RMS) w/ Soundstream Rubicon 2.250 (75x2 @ 4ohm) Fi BTL 12" D2, loaded (2000RMS) Soundstream Rubicon 1.2500 (2500 @ 1ohm) I want to add a duplicate set of CL-62 up front. The 2.600 amp is rated for 300x2 @ 2ohms as well. So I assume, wire the crossovers in parallel from the amp. + to + and - to -. That would yield a 2ohm load from the amplifier giving me how many watts per component at 4ohm each?

i got 2 amps (soon to be 3) and one of those things with the flashy light... i think they call it a cap.... forget what the does... but anyways. ive always heard that you should ground to the same location but its getting harder to mount all the components close enough that i can reach a common ground location. amps: kenwood excelon (600rms for the sub), kicker 250.2, (adding second 2 channel or 4 channel amp after xmas) Questions? 1) can i ground to different locations? if so how? 2) does the ground wire have to be like 18" long or less? can it be more? if i use a ground distro is there a max length in this application? 3) do you need more info on the install?

Looking for a good amplifier for 2 18'' ssd sub a good one but affordable too any suggestion of model?

I'm in the market for a new processor, and I'm hoping a new one came out, or got updated. Any news?

i dont know if this is the right spot to post, but i was just wondering if there is anyone out in northern cali, the bay area, or near the vallejo/fairfield area, that has a O-scope that can charge me to set my gains on my amp. the right way?

May I hook to a 4 channel amp 2 4ohm and 2 2ohm speakers... Each to a separate channel

Anyone know where I can find the stock amp? Its the BOSE

I have a 90 amp alt and will be driving a 12 btl with a dtr1 2200d soundstream amp that as a 200 amp fuse and a audiobahn a6601t that as 80 amp fuse i have a 3 farad cap and im going to buy a back up battery but i dont know wich one yet i will also buy an isolator but im wainting to see if i have to change my alternator...everything is going to be wired with 0 gauge and i changed my car battery ground and my motor ground for 0 gauge and added a extra wire from my alt to my batt. wainting for ya reply to get this thing loaded

Which puts more of a strain on alt. Pros and cons of extra battery or cap. I never plan on playing my system with the car off. Just trying to keep my voltage up. Big Three with Kicker Pkd1 coming monday. Stinger Voltmeter coming soon. 2001 Tahoe 2 Kicker Cvr's Dvc 4ohm wired down to 1 ohm Us Amps 4000 Xt and Crunch 1400 4 channel.

I need a new pair of rca cables. Right now i have a really cheap pair of cables on it and they finally broke can anyone tell me some good brands or something? i was looking at a pair of monster cables but im not really sure what to look for in rca cables. Thanks

i was looking at the knukonceptz krystal rcas ... they are looking pretty nice for the price ... anyone have any experience with them? ... they look similar to the high end jl interconnects or the mid grade monsters

My brother has a 2002 Chevy Trailblazer (4.2L) and he was having problem with his factory head unit. He took it out thinking it was like other units where you can just make a simple swap and have a new head unit. It was a Delco/Bose unit and his Trailblazer has on star. I was told that you would need a different adapter (GMAH24B adapter) if you had onstar. Am needing to know which adapter does he need to buy to get his stereo working again? Or is there a way to bypass that stuff to get the stereo back on like you can do with the pioneer DVD head unit.

Hey everyone! im new to the forum, but i decided since i purchased my amp from ssa that this would be the forum id make my account on. ive got a sundown saz-1000d pushing 2 alpine type r 10"s at 1ohm along with a 3.5 farad cap. in a 1993 ford tempo I got bored one day and decided to do the big 3 upgrade with some JL 4 awg i had lying around in my room. for some reason i feel unsure about the wire i have going from the engine to the chassis, and was wondering if it'd be ok running a wire from the alternator cage to the chassis instead? if doing this is it still ok to leave the stock engine to chassis wire? is this even possible? or will i just run into electrical problems…

what is the advisable length of cable from battery to fuseholder for big three thank you