Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I have noticed on DCsoundlab the difference in RMS output power from 16V to 18V 14.4V 4 ohm 900W x 1 2 ohm 2,300W x 1 1 ohm 5,000W x 1 1 ohm 16V 6,000W x 1 1 ohm 18V 7,300W x 1 http://www.dcsoundlab.com/5k.html These are the specs for the DC 5K. Now when the bass hits hard on my current 12V setup, I dip from 14.4V to 12.3V If I ran an 18V setup, and dipped to 16.3V while playing music, does that mean the RMS output power would dip at least 1,000 watts? Thank you.

My friend asked me to find him a cheaper 4ch amp. Budget is as close to $100 as possible, little over is ok. It needs a full range output on it because his deck is single RCA. I see a mob quart in the classifieds here but not sure how to follow up on that. No contact info. Is there anything new that can be had for this price? Just running a set of aura components and a set of Polk coaxials.

I'm strating a new project and was wondering if JBL gto 1201is a good amp for 10" L7's. Budget's not so big hehe, so i'm tryin to get something that can feed L7 at a decent price.

Got a new build in works on Acura TL. Need amp recomendations for pure SQ app using very high end drivers(listed in my subwoofer thread). Rms over 1000 needed other than that just looking to upgrade my current bsheeted 1650 at 14.4 with >92 s/n ration, 83 db chan sep, and <.05%thd from 20-85ish. Also have to use an OEM integration because Acura thinks there stereo is perfect the way it is... Looking at JL's, the RF 360.2(or other versions) and a couple from audio control(all good shit). Basically looking for anybody who has installed or heard systems with these or other high quality amps and OEM int units. I think my choices would suffice but always considering bett…

Ok i have a audiopipe ap3002 and the it stoped working and now the power light is flashing. is it toast or can i fix it??????

Picking up one from a friend as part of a great package deal in a few days and i am trying to get a little feedback from anyone who is familiar with them. It should suffice for now until i have time and $$$ to build something better. I'm picking up the amp, a Rockford T210d2 sub, a sealed box thats basically useless but still, and a 0 awg wire kit for 350 dollars. Basically i just wanna know if the amp or the sub are the weaker link and which i should replace first. and also if you guys think that it will run an icon 12 ok until i get my sundown? and then hopefully an Xcon insides look fairly beefy

http://www.aaroncake.net/circuits/amp20w.htm Figured a small lead acid 12v battery or a bunch of D batteries wired in cseries/parallel for a power supply , MP3 player as an input and $8 walmart polypropelen speakers. going on my sunfish in the Show Off Section. Part Total Qty. Description Substitutions R1 1 39K 1/4 Watt Resistor C1,C2 2 10uf 25V Electrolytic Capacitor C3 1 100uf 25V Electrolytic Capacitor C4 1 47uf 25V Electrolytic Capacitor C5 1 0.1uf 25V Ceramic Capacitor C6 1 2200uf 25V Electrolytic Capacitor U1 1 TDA1554 Two Channel Audio Amp Chip MISC 1 Heatsink For U1, Binding Posts (For Output), RCA Jacks (For Input), Wire, Board

ok so i learned with my last amp not to bolt it to the box.....well ive got my newest one bolted down between my front seats with the sub replacing the back seat and the amp is vibrating to much and cuts out. but i tap it and press down on it to keep it from vibrating and its fine.....now what i wanna know how can i mount the amp im getting in a few weeks so i wont have to worry about this problem happening to a brand new amp after awhile....anyone else ever have this problem?

I have a JL 500/1 amp going to 2 memphis 10s. When we first installed every thing sounded great and plently of power. After a few days the amp went down on power and under cold start up it makes a buzzing or hissing noise from the amp. When the subs hit it goes away for a second , but it comes right back. at first it was making the noise for a few minites ,but know it is like 5 minintes after the start up. Does any body know what the noise is or why it doesn't have the power it used to??

optima redtop battery terminal posts what are the dimensions. mostly just need diameter.

Ok, I recently bought a blown sax 100.4 relatively cheap. I did not need it, but wanted to see if I can fix it. I know it needs new rca inputs as one is broken, but I believe it needs a mosfet (that is my guess I have yet to do any testing). Before I go any further where can I purchase amplifier parts from knowing that they are quality parts and exactly what I need. Again this is just something I have wanted to take a crack at for awhile and a lot of people probably think this is stupid, but I am hard headed and like to tear things apart and rebuild them. Lol

is there a control knob out that alows 2 amps to run off 1 knob? are they better than the factory knobs?

i got my box built, needs finishing braces and covering. But, now i have no place for my amps. I have searched and read couple post that say it is ok, and some that say it is not. If I just double the sides of the box and mount my amps on the side, will they be ok? I have enough room if I mount my 1500d's end to end and then my 100.4 on the other side. I can mount them on my back seat, but the seat wont be able to fold up. Pic of where box sits now:

i'm looking for a amp to power 2 fi bl 18s. well right now im looking at the audioque 2200 for 389 shipped and the audiopipe 3000d for 386 shipped. what other amps should i look at for bout $400? also i'm looking for a amp that has a warranty.

ok so i am currently running an eclipse cd1000 head unit. it says in the owners manual and on the face that it plays mp3 cds. i'm using roxio 2011 to burn with. ok so i burnt a couple mp3 cd's and the head unit tries to read it but ends up ejecting it, and then after getting next to nothing searching google i read sumthin saying burn it as a data disk so i did that and it still does the same thing. i've never had any experience with an eclipse deck until this one, so if anyone can help me with this that would be great. so please help me out

Do not purchase these amps from the ebay seller riversidetrade they are defective. They were never supposed to be released to the public. The heat sink is to small causing them to overheat and fail. On the good ones the heat sink extends out beyond the case. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...;Category=39739

I have a question if anyone can help answer it. this is the problem i'm having. i have 2 of the fi 18 bl's. i'm running them with 2 of the mtx 7801d amps. 1 per sub. this is the part that gets weird. i have all thing hooked up but not the remote wire to the amps yet. the subs start freaking out. when the gains and the db boost on the amps are turned all down the subs still move a little without signal from the deck yet. as soon as you start to increase the gains the subs do it again. like i said NO signal from the deck. i have to use the db boost on the amps, because as soon as i hook up the bass knob the subs freak out. i'm kind of lost. when i have hooked up the remote …

Ok, first off to get started i have a 15" Fi SSD flatwind option, US Amps XT2000D (1000rms x 1ohm), and a pioneer headunit thats 2.2volts. i have my bass on my headunit all the way lowest it can go, and the bass boost on my amp (hookd up to remote) all the way up, then i have my subwoofer level on my HU +2 (-4 thru +4). right now my gain is about halway on my amp, is that an appropriate spot to put it or can i put it higher. i just got my sub 2 days ago so should i keep my gain low for a few weeks or so to break it in then put my gain to about 3/4.

Ok, so iv been looking at power capabilities of wire sizes and im only running 4 gauge to the back of of my trunk. Now according to 12volt, with the length of the wire it will only be able to take around 600 watts rms of power. Would running my amplifier at 1 ohm, 1500 wrms, stress/overheat the wire? If this is true, maybe ill just run my amp at 4 ohms, (375 wrms) until i can run some 0 or 2 gauge wire once i buy it.

1) Low voltage. Most car charging systems aren't equipped to handle the extra strain of amplifiers without some sort of help, if this is the case you may need to add, a capacitor or battery. 2) Blown sub. Sometimes when you blow a subwoofer, it can take your amp down with it, most amp's will go in to protect before this happens, but not always. 3) Over driving the amp. If you max the gain, and bass boost on your amplifier, you can cause all sorts of problems, including blown fuses. 4) Loose or bad connections. Check your connections to the battery, and ground, sometimes a loose connection will play, but cause your amp to over heat by working to hard to produce it's power.…

I have a Alpine CDA-9884. I got this in January, and used it until about 2 weeks ago. I got a different vehicle, and now have the hu in my 1998 dodge ram 1500. its been in for about a week. now the issue: when i have the hu on the CD player or iPod, music is only played out of the speakers in the back doors. The truck is a quad cab. On the harness, the factory hu had a black ground, i was told to clamp that with the Alpine black. And the blue/black from the Alpine i clamped with the blue/black from the truck harness. I left the reg blue by its self since i dont have a remote wire ran for an amp right now. I hope i did that right. My questions is basically why is it on th…

Trying to get my brother a decent HU with at least 4 volt preouts, ipod combatibility that works and with connector included preferably, and a decent user interface. Needs to be under $160 after shipping. I've looked at just about everything and I'm stuck between these two. A Pioneer Premier DEH-410UB or Clarion CZ500. The only bad thing about the pioneer is it has terrible control reviews (thumbstick very sensitive etc.) which is why I even looked at the clarion. Clarion: CZ500 - Clarion In-Dash CD/MP3/WMA Receiver, Front Panel Aux-In, Bluetooth Pioneer: DEH-P410UB - Pioneer Premier MP3/WMA/WAV/iTunes AAC Reciever ALSO, very open to any suggestions anyone might have! Loo…

i have the audiocontrol DQXS & EPICENTER & MATRIX how do i connect them 3 together ????

Anyone ever tried this amp? It looks old to me but I kinda like it. Hour meter for use, voltage remote meter and remote bass knob (well thats not that cool because most amps have them but the voltage meter is pretty cool), pretty good power and stuff. I wonder if it puts out the rated power? http://www.techronics.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=3070 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_12363_...1200DA+R-B.html IDK, just looking around.

I finally got my DC Power Inc 250amp alternator and switchable MLA module installed. I now have 250amps (140 at idle) available at 15.6 volts sweeeeeeet. I just have to clean up the wires and I'll start a build log with pics. Now I need to run power wires to the trunk and start building the enclosure and kicks.