Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Alright Everyone Its Been A While Since Ive Posted On Here. Im Saving Up For A Sundown Audio Amp And Basically What I Wanted To Know Is Has Anyone Ordered A Refurbished SAZ3000D Amp From db-r ? I know there reliable but can i trust refurbished stuff ? What Is It That You Do To a broken amp when you get it back? New Everything ? Thanks.

Its time for me to install all my gear, ive installed few HU's here and there but never a full system consisting of multiple amps, subs, rear battery, and components. I was told to run a line of 1/0 from the front to the rear + batt terminal, and ground to the chassis of my car. Fuse few inches from front + batt. terminal. For the rear battery, do I fuse inches before the rear battery? How big of ANL fuses should I use, I will have 170 amp fuses in total from my amps, so maybe 200 ANL fuses will be good? Then from the rear battery, ill be running some 1/0 gauge to a dsitro block and will give me 2, 4 gauge outputs that I will connect to my amps, (AQ 1200d, and Kenwood KA…

ok, im starting to upgrade my eletrical before i start doing my system. and i may add a second battery. ( i can fit a powermaster 3100d underhood ) and if add it. i was wondering if instead of running the positve and the negitave wire directly to each battery if i could run them to distribution blocks instead and go from the distribution blocks to the amps. i already have a 1/0 ground run and a 1/0 postive run. and i will get 1 sax100.2 @ 3 ohms. 1 sax 125.2 at 4 ohm. and a either a saz or sae1000d. so roughly 1500 rms total. but my truck only has a stock 90 amp alt. and i doing big 3 is 2/0 guage wire. ( it's welding wire)

Generally, What frequency range do my mids play if my EQ is flat? Thanks in advance.

I was going to write a giant post, but figured this will be better Vehicle - 2006 Ford F-150 XL What I plan on doing: Fi BTL 18" power by Lanzar Opti6000D 8 Pioneer 4-way 280W Max 6x8s on 50Ws each Supporting upgrades: HO Alternator, something with a high idle output Isolator splitting between stock battery for car and 3 batteries in bed of truck Big 3 with 0 Gauge 0 gauge from alt to all batteries Fuses throughout system Voltage meter in dash If you assume I know how to correctly make a ported box, and how to wire stuff, is there anything I am missing or should do in order to make the system more stable? I plan on using 0 gauge for grounds, but feel like I should ask her…

Hey guys. once again i'm having another problem..my head unit isn't getting any power. I went to instal my voltage meter that i got today and then the no power problem started. I finished installing the voltage meter and everything was working fine. I pulled the head unit back down to put the RCA cables back in and it seemed like the music volume started to get lower and lower. I finished everything and picked the HU back up to put it back into the dash and everything just quit working. I thought that maybe some wire just came loose so i checked everything and it all looked fine. I just cant figure out what it is. Everything is wired together just like it should be, exce…

Looking for a parametric half din eq that has adjustable q. I've seen a couple that allow you to adjust the q for the subwoofer center freq, but I have yet to find one that will for your other freq's. Is this an option only available in a full size trunk mount type eq?

So whats the best head unit i can get for around $120 that fit an E,S,U. Going in a 1993 Range Rover County.

Does this amp work at 4 ohms?... There is no rating i could find for it at 4 ohms and id need it at that if i get it untill igot a new sub. At 2 ohms it puts out 1100 rms so at 4 would it be like 550?

I have an autotek mm1400.1d on a DD 9512g wired at one ohm. I set the gain using the pinned tutorial above. I bought the amp used, and my voltage hasn't dropped below 12.5 volts yet.. it usually hovers around 13-13.5 volts. Also, the amp doesn't seem to be getting too hot either. Could the problem be that the amp is damaged? Thanks

I am putting in 3 external batteries in the back of my suv. The batteries are obviously going to be grounded to the chasis. I have been confused on whether it would be better to ground the amps to the chasis as well or if it would be better to run the ground to the batteries. The batteries are each going to have 2 runs of 1/0 to the chasis. Which is a better idea?

So i have 2 Earthquake PH5000/d1 amps running 4 FI SSD 15s. I have found a low popping noise in the speakers from 1 of the amps. When i unplug the RCA cables from it it gets louder. I tried switching the 2 amps and it stays on that one amp. I also have an audiocontrol in dash epicenter that can measure dbs. One night after i built the box i went for a test drive i was hitting 158 on it. the next day and since then i have not been able to hit above 155. Today i was outside messing with it and I unhooked the speaker wires from the amp that is popping and the subs on the other amp got louder. That was while the truck was running and music playing. So i hooked all 4 to the on…

I have an 01 tahoe with 2 15's kicker cvr dvc 4 ohm wired down to 1 ohm. Us amps xt 4000 1500rms@1ohm and a crunch 1400 4 channel and a 4 farad performance teknique power cap. red top under hood and db electrical ho alt. Have not did the big three yet. At idle my voltage drops to 13 or even 12 when bass really hits. Will the big three help with 0 gauge wire. Should I buy a powermaster D680 or D975 and get rid of the cap

Alright so im not going to buy the crimpers for one time use... i was at homedepot and picked up plumbers solder... ik everyone says use electrical solder... whats the difference? And will the plumbers solder be good enough?... im using 1 guage to a 1300rms amp.

I want to make 2 buss bars, one for ground and one for positive. I'd like to mount them to opposite sides of the same piece of wood. No pieces of metal will touch, so would this be ok?

as of now my gains are set to the max preout voltage of my headunit (just got a dmm the other day), so pretty conservatively. but now that I am going to set them more aggressively with the dmm, i want to make sure not to send a clipped signal to either my mids or subs, but for both, i'm going to be using the full rated RMS of my amps. so my question is: is there any way to know if my amps will be able to do rated without clipping? if you just have to guess based on the amps, the amps are: a TMA 320.4 (4-channel from JL's entry level brand) and a Massive P1000.1 (at 4 ohms) no, i don't have an O-scope

im gonna be doing a install in my girlfriends ride shortly. up front im giving her 5.25 alpine type x comps that have been sitting around. this will be powered with a audiobahn a6004v(don't ask)..anywho i need to know should i turn the amps hp xover to flat or should i just run the amps xover...what do u guys suggest?

Has anyone used Odyssey brand batteries in their setups, and if so, how do they compare to other brands as far as disharge and keeping voltage up?

so my buddys had his amp unhooked for a couple months and today i went over to his house and just reconected the power wire and fuzes because thats all that he had unhooked and when we crunk the car and turned the system on his subs just let out what sounded like a 40 hz tone and nothing else his door speakers were playing the song but his subs were just going non stop the system in question is a power acoustic 820 2ohm mono ampand two memphis tens white and black i havent seen the back of the so i dont know exactly what they are someone help me please

I have an older Rockford Fosgate 500.2 unit and I had some questions about setting the gain. Everything I have read shows to take the RMS wattage X the ohm then get the square root of that. My only problem is since my amp is technically a 2 channel I am wondering how I do this with it in bridged mode. That wouldn't normally be an issue aside from the fact that this amp also has a left and a right gain control. Now the amp is 500 RMS x 1 at 4 ohm bridged OR 125 x 2 @4ohm stereo. How would I go about using a DMM to set these gains as close to perfect as possible?

Hello, i've installed my new(er) system the other day currently i have Optima Yellow top 2 SSA icons 12 2 Pheonix Gold Ryval 1000w 2 channel (each sub with their own bridged) 1 Pheonix Gold Ryval 1000w 4 channel 2 Kicker DS460 4x6 1 Pioneer DEH-P510UB Will be adding getting 2 Kicker 08KS6930 6x9 1 SoundStorm SX310 crossover if i'm not mistaken the crossover will prevent my mids and highs from "popping" and put a cleaner sound though, right? also is a sound processor needed? i have a decent amount of "road noise" coming though, just enough to bother me. will the processor fix all that? or will the crossover fix it?

got a mbquart 4125 and alpine type r components in the front and trpe r coaxials in the bac recommended rms 110 for front and 100 for back i know you dont set these by output voltage but tested and the most output voltage was 8 volts ac after i thought i had it set right could i have my gain set to low- or my filters set wrong-- i know yall are gonna go ask so i will go out and see exactly what i have everything set at also for my sundown sae1200dv2 wired up to 3 sa8s wired up to 1.3 ohms the voltage should be around 40 vac or am i wrong on that- when i just checked what the amp was pushing before i messed with gains (subs were not hooked up) iit was 100 vac at max g…

My brother has a 2002 Chevy Trailblazer (4.2L) and he was having problem with his factory head unit. He took it out thinking it was like other units where you can just make a simple swap and have a new head unit. It was a Delco/Bose unit and his Trailblazer has on star. I was told that you would need a different adapter (GMAH24B adapter) if you had onstar. Am needing to know which adapter does he need to buy to get his stereo working again? Or is there a way to bypass that stuff to get the stereo back on like you can do with the pioneer DVD head unit.

what are your guys opions on the JBL GTO 75.4...im thinking about picking it up to run my two mj18 that are 8 ohm each....and this looks like it will do ok for the time being to poush these...thanks

Having a small issue with the 9884. The H/U automatically decreases the treble (noticeably) above 25 on the volume setting. Same problem when using the tuner/xm unit to which I have the gain at maximum on the xm or else it's too low. How can I turn this automatic function off? My old Cda-9827 used to crank the volume way higher with NO problem. Now I can only reach 90% of its limits before it starts changing the balance and sounds like chit. Pisssing me off