Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

i am planning on buying a kinetik hc1800, and do the big 3 with 0awg, but will it be enough to power a RF T1500-1BD and a power acoustiks 1000 watt max 4-channel, i know it wont be full tilt, but just wanna know if it would power it welll, if not, what else can i do, swap it for a kinetik hc2000???? open for sugestions, and really cant afford a HO alternator, i have a silverado 2000 4.3 single cab,

i have an 03 b5.5 sedan, just wondering if anyone knows how on earth i should access the alt and where in gods name i can find the engine-->chassis wire.... its like a jungle in there... links/pics greatly appreciated.

How do I connect my subs to my Amp to Bring it down to 2ohms? The amp rating is 200x4ohms 400x2ohms 800x4ohms Bridging the amp L- R+ brings the amp to 800x4ohms So I was wondering how to do I connect it to bring it down to 400x2ohms. Right now it's connected R+ R- and I don't know if that's 200x4ohms or 400x2ohms. Please help.

I'll start by listing all the equipment used in the vehicle (2008 Dodge Caliber) and say that all of this has been installed and working fine for months until tonight. Starting up front, we have a 230amp DC alt, hooked to a factory replacement Duralast battery under the hood and the big 3 in 1/0. There's a fused power wire running from said under hood Duralast to Kinetik 1400 in the back near the amplifier, then on to the amplifier which is a Hifonics bxi1606D wired to 1 ohm. This amp is powering a pair of D4 Skar VVX12s. Now on to the problem, tonight we started the car and immediately noticed a sound/noise coming from inside the amplifier on the power/ground/speaker ter…

anyone have any hands on experience with the Soundstream HR crypt 4 amplifier???? need some good power for my 2 sets of JBL 660gti components and want clean power with no background noise..my JBL GTO 75.4ll sux nuts for background hiss is the HR crypt 4 worth the money??

Alright, so I got a dual 4 skar vvx 10 and ive been looking for an amp for it. I was looking for something that put out somewhere around 700-800watts @2ohms. My price range is nothing higher than $230. I have a list of my choices, so im politely asking if you guys could give me your 2cents on which amp(s) would be my best choice. AQ1200d Soundstream Rub.1000 MbQuart Q1500 MbQuart onyx1.1000 Cadence F700-1 Hfi1000d

Hey everyone, I've got this irritating alternator whine ever since upgrading my front stage, hopefully someone can give me some insight. Here's my setup: 02 Lexus IS300 Alpine CDA-9856 MRX-M110 RE SE 12 *SPR-17s *PDX 4.150 *KX3 crossover The items marked with asterisks are new components to this install (owned them since ~07, sat in the closet for a while) and are where the noise is coming from somehow. I've searched extensively for resources to find anything I could do to fix this issue but to no avail. The most comprehensive guide I've found is at http://www.termpro.com/asp/pubs.asp?ID=121 but I've tried everything (new to me) that they suggest, bu…

I have an older Rockford Fosgate 500.2 unit and I had some questions about setting the gain. Everything I have read shows to take the RMS wattage X the ohm then get the square root of that. My only problem is since my amp is technically a 2 channel I am wondering how I do this with it in bridged mode. That wouldn't normally be an issue aside from the fact that this amp also has a left and a right gain control. Now the amp is 500 RMS x 1 at 4 ohm bridged OR 125 x 2 @4ohm stereo. How would I go about using a DMM to set these gains as close to perfect as possible?

I have a AQ1200d with the clipping indicator on the gain knob, and I noticed that the light blinks earlier than it did before. For example, on a certain song the volume on the HU would be 22 without any clipping. Now at 22 on the same song, it blinks, so I bring it down to 21 and no blinks. I noticed this happened a couple months before also, and it feels like the power of the system is depleting. Is this a sign the electrical is giving out? Right now, I'm running a 150a alternator, big 3, d34 yellowtop for the front only, and 1400rms for the total of the amps.

Anyone have any experience with grounding a second battery or amplifiers in the back of a 2005+ mustang? I know that I could always run the ground from the front battery to the back, but looking to see if there is a good ground to use in the back.

I have a 1997 Grand Am and this is what the electric consists of, stock 105a alt, deka primary batt, 1/0 for batt to chassis ground and motor to chassis...havnt yet done alt to batt. My voltage is dropping to 11.5 on some notes, the amp is a saz1500....I need help deciding what else I need to get the voltage up and stable. The XS power d1200 I can fit under the hood as primary but the d5100 is to big and I dont want to do a second battery. Should I get the d1200 or get a h.o. alt, if you guys need any more info please say. Thanks for any help

i have recently installed a subwoofer in my car, its a hertz hx250 d wich delivers 450Wrms in 2 ohm. It is driven by a Audison SR 1D mono amplifier wich delivers 460 wrms in 2 ohm. i just discovered that adjusting this shit was easier said than dine. So i wonder if anyone might help me along with tips and advises. Kay.

hello all i know i don't post much but i need some help, i have a 94 supra and i think it's time to upgrade the audio system. first let me say space is limited, i want to use a 5 channel amp because that's all it seem like i have room for. i will be using polk component speakers zx350.4 and they are 6 1/2, i also need some input on some bass speakers i don't want anything bigger than 10" i have a box to go in the stock location. any info will be appreciated. thanks.....

this may be a dumb question but i figured id give it a shot... im so tired of having my old iraggi alt (ford 3g) sitting around so is there any way possible to make this alt fit my '02 5.4 f150? it currently has a ford 6g alt. i checked and yess the plug is the same on both alts. but the bolt pattern is different. i wish i had a extra $250 siting around so i could pick up a nice used alt. for my truck but i dont and i cant get rid of this alt. so can it be done??

Hey I got an amp that says its minimum impedance bridged is 4 ohms, and will produce 1000w at 4 ohms bridged. Ive been running 2 dual 4 ohm subs to make the 4 ohms bridged mode, but due to power limitations I want to take out one of the subs so I can get more power to push a single sub. Since the amp does 1000w bridged at 4 ohms, would it be safe to assume that if I wired a single sub to run at 8 ohms, it would produce 500w rms bridged? Edit: by power limitations I mean I'm running my stock 80 amp alternator, no spare battery and no big 3. so my subs have to split somewhere around 400 watts, id rather just push one at 400 watts than 2 at 200.

got a mbquart 4125 and alpine type r components in the front and trpe r coaxials in the bac recommended rms 110 for front and 100 for back i know you dont set these by output voltage but tested and the most output voltage was 8 volts ac after i thought i had it set right could i have my gain set to low- or my filters set wrong-- i know yall are gonna go ask so i will go out and see exactly what i have everything set at also for my sundown sae1200dv2 wired up to 3 sa8s wired up to 1.3 ohms the voltage should be around 40 vac or am i wrong on that- when i just checked what the amp was pushing before i messed with gains (subs were not hooked up) iit was 100 vac at max g…

Does the SAZ-3000 accept a hifonics remote gain knob cord? If not then where can I get one? any place like Fry's or radio shack have them? or adapters?

I just recently purchased a Sundown SAZ 1500d amp and I was lookin thru the manual and I noticed something in it that if I'm running 1 sub that I should run the -wire to the positive and the +wire from the sub to the negative terminal on the amp for the speakers. Is this a error or this is the way I'm supposed to do it ?

I'm in a quandary. I need to make a quick decision on amp. Equipment I have is 220 amp alt, big three done, two hc 2400. Subs are two fi ssd dual 2, box tuned to 45 Hz. I plan on competing in s3 and trying to decide which amp to get before pre-order ends. Would you go with the saz-2500 or the saz-3500. All info and suggestions appreciative.

Okay guys so I got a 2008 ford escape and right Now I'm running two 12" Pioneer Premier TS-W3001D4 in a sealed enclosure. They are powered by a crunch 1500.1 mono amp. I am most like going to be selling the amp for around $150. So my budget will be around $250-$300. These subs do 1000rms a piece so I'm looking for around 1500-2000 rms. I am aware that I will have to upgrade to 1/0 gauge everything and prob get a capacitor but I'm willing to deal. I have been lookin at some hifonics amps that do around 1700 rms at 2 ohms and they are around 300 on some sites. But as always I appreciate any and all suggestions thanks, Nick

so i've seen videos and people have a little digital volt reader on there dash, it reads how many volts the battery (or alt?) is putting out, and it has blue numbers... where can i find one online and what are they called exactly. also, i can't exactly afford 1/0 gauge power wire set from street wires, which is who i want. and i can't wait any longer to get my system put in my new car. i have a SAE 1000D amp with a 12" Fi Q going into a 2001 grand cherokee. stock alt is 100amps. anyways, i used the 4 gauge in my previous car, even though it's rated for 600w, thats what people on here told me to use. i wanna upgrade my system to a BTL or Xcon, i haven't decided yet, but i …

I just installed my EA HO Alt and this thing is performing very well. Limiting factor with installing it is the factory limiter at 14.1 volts. I spoke with Nate and he said in order to get the most out of it 14.8 -15 volts I would have to return it so he could adjust the regulation and then run it using the external regulation. No big deal, but my question is this. How much of a difference would my system notice running at 14.8 volts than at 14.1 volts? I'm thinking it should be minimal, but I wanted to ask others and get some input. Thanks.

Ok I am looking for a complete amp wiring kit. It will be going to a Autotek 1000.1 amp, and two JL w6v2's in a sealed box. I am not to sure what to look at considering the amp wiring kit. I want a 4 gauge main wire but my question is how do I look at the watts? what does it have mainly to do with and what is the appropriate watts for the kit?

Okay heres the deal. I have two Mach 5 SPL-12s. I currently have them for sale. However numerous people on a few forums say I'll regret selling them. I'm trying to figure out how much it'll cost me to get these things going. I have a camper shell already for my truck, but I need accordian gasket to go between the truck and the camper shell. I am not sure what I'd do for amp(s). I would like to get a SAZ-3000D refurb but I dobut I can afford it. I have been looking at the Audiopipe AP3000.1D, which is like $350. The subs are Dual 2s though, I may be better off with two 1500W amps as opposed to one 3000W amp. I am not sure what batteries I can get. Yellow Tops here are $3…

I am going to get the Saz1500D and Sax100.4 and Need to talk to Jacob. How do I talk to him? Thanks for any info