Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

anyone know a good place to put an amp in a 2004 chevy silverado. and if there is anyway to run the wires without removing the front seat. it is a ext. by the way.

I heard that circuit breakers are not a good idea. Is it tru that they lose their capacity every time they are tripped. So the first time it will trip at rated load, then it will begin to trip at lower values every time it is tripped?

I have stock s10 electrical and have 2 new alpine mrp-m500's. I have went through 2 alternators and wonder what is happening. Is 1000 watts too much for a stock electrical system. Thanks in advance!!!

I have a 2008 yukon with a stock alt...if i were to add a second alt,say a dc xp 280...can i leave my stock alt running the stock battery...then have my dc alt powering 3 xs3400...

Hello, i've installed my new(er) system the other day currently i have Optima Yellow top 2 SSA icons 12 2 Pheonix Gold Ryval 1000w 2 channel (each sub with their own bridged) 1 Pheonix Gold Ryval 1000w 4 channel 2 Kicker DS460 4x6 1 Pioneer DEH-P510UB Will be adding getting 2 Kicker 08KS6930 6x9 1 SoundStorm SX310 crossover if i'm not mistaken the crossover will prevent my mids and highs from "popping" and put a cleaner sound though, right? also is a sound processor needed? i have a decent amount of "road noise" coming though, just enough to bother me. will the processor fix all that? or will the crossover fix it?

Allright guys, I was working on the car last night, and re-doing my grounds and re-running everything neatly...and what not...and put everything together nicely. I got done, and now my amplifiers stay on constantly even when I kill the car. And my headunit will not turn on. I did pull the H/U but I checked everything behind it, and nothings loose or broken. If I un-plug the Remote wire from the amps, they turn off.....seems like they are getting power from a hot source, but the H/U will not come on. I didn't let anything touch in the trunk, or anything...no fuses have blown...no loose connections anywhere. I'm stumped .....never ran into this problem before....has any one…

in the pinned topic, it says "Gain Setting Equation Voltage of the output = sqrt(RMS Power X impedance of the speaker)" i have a 2ohm DVC sub, so is my impedance 2ohms? or 4ohms? (2[dvc]*2ohms) or 1ohms because i'm putting it as a 1 ohm load onto my sub? the DVC is what throws me off here, the thread doesn't specify whether it matters or not. it also says to stick the positive and negative into the amp terminal... well my amp has 4 (2 of each polarity) terminals, should i use the negative from one set, adn the postive from the other? ex) A+ and B-? or ex) A+ and A-? thats my amp.

I have a 2006 Corolla Type S. My alternator is 70 amps. I have a Batcap 800 as kinda like a 2nd battery for my JBL GTO 1201.1 II amp that puts out 1100 watts at 2 ohms. My system dims a lil bit but not too badly at night. I had a pair of Kicker CVX 12s powered off this amp and one blew and I sold the other one. I also had a pair of Orion HP12s and one blew and I still have the other one. The reason the HP blew though was I was playing Trap or Die by Young Jeezy with my iPods Bass Booste on to make the song hit harder like an idiot lol (I know not to do that ever again). One question I have is could not my electrical system actually be damaging to sub setups? In my…

I currently have a Kenwood Excelon 891 hu and have been happy until now. I'm looking for another clean 24 bit dac, cd, mp3 player. This one is under warrenty getting fixed and thinking about another. I just want a clean sounding quality cd player that can play ipod and sirius. I want sound quality over anything. Any suggestions I'm at a loss on where to go what brand and such. Thinking about Alpine 9887, what do you guys think?

I have a quick question concerning the Alpine 9886 headunit. I know it`s not the best to use dynamic bass features such as bass boost, but what about the bass feature that lets your widen your bass (Q0,Q1,Q2,Q3,Q4)? I notice the bass gets noticeably louder when I bring it up the scale towards Q4 but also less accurate, is toying with this feature when playing really loud bad for my woofer or am I good to go?

I've had my setup out of my car for several months now but i still have both 200A solenoids in the car because the input wire is still hot and the fuse for it is in a place that is hard to get to and i'll change it out once i replace my starting battery. Well.. couple days ago, i noticed my clock in my car was resetting itself but nothing else in the car showed symptoms of loss of battery connection so i thought the clock itself was bad.... Well, luckily today, it did it in front of me when i started the car.. the car sounded like it was in TERRIBLE strain to start and the solenoids in the back kept randomly switching on\off! Then the car started.. Well, since that wasn'…

Does anyone know of a bass knob compatible with the Dynabel 7501 besides the universal ones that just go into your rcas>

i can get the clarion for about 200 and the pioneer for about 300. is it worth goin for the pioneer? its my first active set up. i could afford some better speakers if i get the clarion... and i really like the look on the clarion for some reason... idk why...

So I hooked back up my amplifier today and when I turned the headunit on and played some music I realized that no bass was coming from my subwoofer and my amp was in protect mode. I also noticed that my lights would flicker and dim and why voltage dropped to like 12 volts. Any suggestions to what the problem may be?

Are the preamp sub outs on the head unit low frequency or full range then converted in the mono amp? Excuse my ignorance, I'm as "newbie" as it gets with this stuff. Basically, is there a difference in using them as opposed to line out on the 4-channel amp into the mono?

So i tried to play a youtube video and then one i recorded on the iphone. Neither worked. What could be wrong? I have the proper cable from pioneer. Its an Iphone 4 on iOS 5.0

I have one SAZ 1500v.2 and I also have one Crunch GP3000d-Pro. I need to power 2 FI Q's and was gonna run the Crunch amp but appearance wise two matching SAZ1500's would look much better. The subs are Dual 1's so I would have to run the Sundowns at .5ohm to get a 1 ohm load but I would be easy with the gain knob and also will have the electrical to back them up. Anyone see a problem with this other than warranty issues. Curious what to do. I know both will do work but Im sorta torn. Im thinking the 2 Sundowns may sound cleaner but at .5 maybe not? My trucks interior is all black, lol

Im looking at this crescendo BC2000D for my fully loaded BL 15 dual 2. Want to run it at 1 ohm . I rather buy a amp that has a little more to give, for if i upgrade from the BL to a different line down the road. Also the price isn't bad. Good choice or no ?

I'm going to be running 2000 watts constant at 1 ohm to my btl and i was wondering what gauge wire i need to use? I'm guessing 1 gauge but i rather be safe than sorry.

hey whats up im looking for a huge battery for my secondary battery something that can handle burps really well and a lil music here and there what are the differences between these two and which ones better thanks

alright ive been searching for used 2400s and d3100s and i just gave up because i just found this deal. figured i would give them a try. i already have 10 hc2400s and 1 d3100. http://www.powerhousebattery.com/cgi/displ...em_num=UB121100 i found out it was cheaper to buy the batteries 1 at a time then buying all 5 at once so i did 5 seperate orders 205 SHIPPED EACH 205 was in my price range so ill give them a try.

ive already got the big 3 all done in 1/0 with terminals soldered and all the goods, but im gonna install the alt soon and i was wondering if its necessary to double up on the 1/0 or no? and it says in the paperwork to add another ground from the closest ear on the alt to the frame..is that necessary too or just a good idea?

I traded a friend for this beefy mechman 270 amp alternator for my truck. It just looks so much better... What do yall think?

So, after doin some lookin at line drivers, it seems they are worthless to use if the goal is to achieve higher SPL for burps but... i have another goal. When i do bassrace or driveby, or longterm musical playback at non-sanctioned shows, i run in a fully clipped signal because my 7,000w still isnt enough for the subs i'm running... I have a 4v preout ran to 2 sub amps and 1 Sundown 100.4. I was curious if i were to ever add a line driver and boost the signal up a little bit(amps accept up to 8v) if i could lower the gain in hopes to prevent the coils from heating up as quick? I can burp all day long and the coils stay cool but when i run in bassrace, etc, the coils tend …

anyone had any dealings with them? Just wondered what kind of quality and workmanship they put into there products?