Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I have a quick question concerning the Alpine 9886 headunit. I know it`s not the best to use dynamic bass features such as bass boost, but what about the bass feature that lets your widen your bass (Q0,Q1,Q2,Q3,Q4)? I notice the bass gets noticeably louder when I bring it up the scale towards Q4 but also less accurate, is toying with this feature when playing really loud bad for my woofer or am I good to go?

Is it bad to lose strands of power wire overtime from lets say, disconnecting the wire from terminals and clamps, or even accidentally slicing some off when cutting away at the insulation? Do you lose conductivity and/or lessen amp load of the wire? Also, would using a coupler to add on to an existing power wire to make it longer be okay to do? Or would I have to run a new longer wire to the size I need?

Hey I got an amp that says its minimum impedance bridged is 4 ohms, and will produce 1000w at 4 ohms bridged. Ive been running 2 dual 4 ohm subs to make the 4 ohms bridged mode, but due to power limitations I want to take out one of the subs so I can get more power to push a single sub. Since the amp does 1000w bridged at 4 ohms, would it be safe to assume that if I wired a single sub to run at 8 ohms, it would produce 500w rms bridged? Edit: by power limitations I mean I'm running my stock 80 amp alternator, no spare battery and no big 3. so my subs have to split somewhere around 400 watts, id rather just push one at 400 watts than 2 at 200.

so i've seen videos and people have a little digital volt reader on there dash, it reads how many volts the battery (or alt?) is putting out, and it has blue numbers... where can i find one online and what are they called exactly. also, i can't exactly afford 1/0 gauge power wire set from street wires, which is who i want. and i can't wait any longer to get my system put in my new car. i have a SAE 1000D amp with a 12" Fi Q going into a 2001 grand cherokee. stock alt is 100amps. anyways, i used the 4 gauge in my previous car, even though it's rated for 600w, thats what people on here told me to use. i wanna upgrade my system to a BTL or Xcon, i haven't decided yet, but i …

i can get the clarion for about 200 and the pioneer for about 300. is it worth goin for the pioneer? its my first active set up. i could afford some better speakers if i get the clarion... and i really like the look on the clarion for some reason... idk why...

im looking for a good amp for a fi btl 18, any suggestions are appreciated. thanks

I am going to get the Saz1500D and Sax100.4 and Need to talk to Jacob. How do I talk to him? Thanks for any info

ok so last night and all day today everythings been great. setup has been beatin pretty good. ok so i went to my ol' lady's house today and had no problems what so ever on the way. my car set for 4-5 hours. i go to leave and my car wouldnt start. thought it might be a loose batt terminal checked that didnt work. my voltage meter said 12.8 turn the key and it would go to 0.0 then to 9.0 and back to 12.8. ended up using a jump box to get it started and voltage went right up to like 15.3 with the headlights on. if i turned my volume up over 1/4 up the stereo would shut off ,lights would dim ,and voltage would drop to like 9.0 ...hit the highway and i could turn it bout 1/2 w…

I have one SAZ 1500v.2 and I also have one Crunch GP3000d-Pro. I need to power 2 FI Q's and was gonna run the Crunch amp but appearance wise two matching SAZ1500's would look much better. The subs are Dual 1's so I would have to run the Sundowns at .5ohm to get a 1 ohm load but I would be easy with the gain knob and also will have the electrical to back them up. Anyone see a problem with this other than warranty issues. Curious what to do. I know both will do work but Im sorta torn. Im thinking the 2 Sundowns may sound cleaner but at .5 maybe not? My trucks interior is all black, lol

I have a AQ1200d with the clipping indicator on the gain knob, and I noticed that the light blinks earlier than it did before. For example, on a certain song the volume on the HU would be 22 without any clipping. Now at 22 on the same song, it blinks, so I bring it down to 21 and no blinks. I noticed this happened a couple months before also, and it feels like the power of the system is depleting. Is this a sign the electrical is giving out? Right now, I'm running a 150a alternator, big 3, d34 yellowtop for the front only, and 1400rms for the total of the amps.

I currently have a Kenwood Excelon 891 hu and have been happy until now. I'm looking for another clean 24 bit dac, cd, mp3 player. This one is under warrenty getting fixed and thinking about another. I just want a clean sounding quality cd player that can play ipod and sirius. I want sound quality over anything. Any suggestions I'm at a loss on where to go what brand and such. Thinking about Alpine 9887, what do you guys think?

k, i got a question, im getting ready to order my amp(s) and im considering getting 2 bxi 1608d, which would give 1100w RMS at 2 ohms http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_12211_...+BXi+1608D.html i have the dual1 on the BLs, i was told i could only wire each at .5 or 2 ohms, or join them together and get 1 or 4 ohms? so i decided to take the "Easier" way and choose 2 amps, 1 per sub i am confused as to which would be the correct way f wiring these so the correct way to wire this would be option 2 since its a 2ohm load, but it says the woofer is 4ohms(crutchfield) but then the rockford has the 2ohm woofer at 1 ohm anf both diagrams are the same? so wat ohms would a dual1 be…

I've had my setup out of my car for several months now but i still have both 200A solenoids in the car because the input wire is still hot and the fuse for it is in a place that is hard to get to and i'll change it out once i replace my starting battery. Well.. couple days ago, i noticed my clock in my car was resetting itself but nothing else in the car showed symptoms of loss of battery connection so i thought the clock itself was bad.... Well, luckily today, it did it in front of me when i started the car.. the car sounded like it was in TERRIBLE strain to start and the solenoids in the back kept randomly switching on\off! Then the car started.. Well, since that wasn'…

I traded a friend for this beefy mechman 270 amp alternator for my truck. It just looks so much better... What do yall think?

I have a head unit that puts out 4 volts, is a line driver neccessary? Am using the AQ2200D amp if thats neccessary. Thanks

Hey guy! I'm upgrading my electrical system, and I want to know what size pulley should I get for a 250amp alt going into a 2002 ford expedition xlt. What I will have running in the truck when I'm done are two saz 2000d powering 4 ascendant audio havocs 15 inch subs. Any help and infos are welcome. Thanks

i have recently installed a subwoofer in my car, its a hertz hx250 d wich delivers 450Wrms in 2 ohm. It is driven by a Audison SR 1D mono amplifier wich delivers 460 wrms in 2 ohm. i just discovered that adjusting this shit was easier said than dine. So i wonder if anyone might help me along with tips and advises. Kay.

Hey everyone, I've got this irritating alternator whine ever since upgrading my front stage, hopefully someone can give me some insight. Here's my setup: 02 Lexus IS300 Alpine CDA-9856 MRX-M110 RE SE 12 *SPR-17s *PDX 4.150 *KX3 crossover The items marked with asterisks are new components to this install (owned them since ~07, sat in the closet for a while) and are where the noise is coming from somehow. I've searched extensively for resources to find anything I could do to fix this issue but to no avail. The most comprehensive guide I've found is at http://www.termpro.com/asp/pubs.asp?ID=121 but I've tried everything (new to me) that they suggest, bu…

getting ready for Sicnick/Usaci in south LA !!! going to go F-with there heads planning on 3sets of 2x seires / then parallel to get close ASP to 18v any tips or CONSTRUCTIVE input is welcome

I have a 2008 yukon with a stock alt...if i were to add a second alt,say a dc xp 280...can i leave my stock alt running the stock battery...then have my dc alt powering 3 xs3400...

I'm going to be running 2000 watts constant at 1 ohm to my btl and i was wondering what gauge wire i need to use? I'm guessing 1 gauge but i rather be safe than sorry.

anyone had any dealings with them? Just wondered what kind of quality and workmanship they put into there products?

I'll start by listing all the equipment used in the vehicle (2008 Dodge Caliber) and say that all of this has been installed and working fine for months until tonight. Starting up front, we have a 230amp DC alt, hooked to a factory replacement Duralast battery under the hood and the big 3 in 1/0. There's a fused power wire running from said under hood Duralast to Kinetik 1400 in the back near the amplifier, then on to the amplifier which is a Hifonics bxi1606D wired to 1 ohm. This amp is powering a pair of D4 Skar VVX12s. Now on to the problem, tonight we started the car and immediately noticed a sound/noise coming from inside the amplifier on the power/ground/speaker ter…

so i called to see how much everything was gonna cost plus the 3yr warranty and they said they were all sold out but the website said they werent....anyways they said they should have some more in a couple of weeks,i knew that was gonna happen with them having that price on that x889....now i dont know if i should wait to see if they get more or if i should just pay the extra $50 that the closest other store has it at.....but then again the 8445 is around that same price so i dont know now,dammitt everytime i make a decision something happends....grrrrrr LOL

The following is going to be presented as Company A and Company B to prevent biased responses. I have been told a LOT of information from 2 different alt specialists about my car so if this were you... what would u do? My car is an 07 scion tC. It uses a special alt that uses a hairpin stator. At this time, there are only these 2 companies that offer alts for this car. The design of the alt itself- it uses square windings to fill more of the gap inside for increased efficiency and to get as most amperage out as possible as well. Now, here goes the specs of each company and what they say, u make the call... Company A- Offers a 300A alt, 140A @idle, $700 warrantied for…