Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I have a 18" Fi SSD d2 running off of a Powerbass ASA 400.2. The sub is wired at 4 ohms right now and was actually only running on one channel of the amp and getting 100 watts. I just changed it to bridged because I just now realized it supports 4 ohms. It's rated at 400 watts when bridged. My gain when only running it on one channel had to be almost all the way up for the sub. Is this because it was only getting 100 watts ? I still wouldn't think it would have to be turned up so high. I was really worried about clipping but never had any burning smells when playing full blast for extended periods of time. The amp gets kinda hot but never overheats. When it is wired bridg…

I have 2 Massive Audio D3000.1's right now with the gain turned up about half way. I put a recommended 100amp fuse in the holder... today i got in the car, turned on the stereo and one amp didn't turn on. I checked all the wiring, everything is fine...checked the fuse, fuse was fine. The amp doesnt turn on at all, doesnt go into protect, nothing. I used a multi meter to check the voltage, the remote wire was reading 12v but the power wire is reading 0.03v what happened?? :S

Hello everyone. I am having a problem with my amp and i am not sure why. I am running 2 in phase XT's (XTB212) http://www.inphaseaudio.co.uk/xt-range.php...;products_id=49 2 ohms X 2 1400 watts each about (900 RMS) I am running it off a 1800W Kenwood mono block amp http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/product/p...ts_id/5745.html wired in parallel (1 ohms) but after i turn the volume up to a point BOTH the 30A fuses on the amp blows i used to run these subs at 4 ohms and they worked fine but at 1 ohms they are like 2X better so any idea's why i blow fuses at 1 ohms.... i am quite sure my amp is 1ohm stable.. i also have a distribution block to run my 2nd 2 channel amp (400watt…

My Memphis 1500 crapped out on me so i'm in need of a new amp. I was looking at either a Clarion DPX11551 or a Hifonics BXi 2610D. Both are going to be run at 2ohms. Any pros or cons on these amps?

Im looking for a good reliable amp with will do at least 1500 RMS at 1 ohm at 12v and be as efficiant as possible. No more than 2000 RMS at 1 ohm. I have my mind set on a RF T1500.1BD but Im open to new ideas.

This has been bugging me so help! For my daily driver SQ system I need to power: 12" Soundsplinter Rl-p --sealed 7" Seas W18e0001 -- IB in custom kicks Alpine F1 Status Tweet D2904/61001 on a pillars Old School Amplifiers I have already--power listed at 4 ohms: PG zx475ti -- 75x4 , 250x2 PG M44 -- 55x4, 160x2 Alpine 3032 -- 30x2 Sony XM-3520 -- 35x2 Pioneer GM-2000 -- 50x2 My current setup has the zx475 running the Rl-p with 250w on ea coil and the M44 bridged running my front stage passive. I plan on using the setup as is but going active and using one of my other amps for powering the tweeters. My concern with the Alpine is the lack of gains and its size. The other…

i read what i could find on what makes an amp what class but nothing on how each performs. why i'm wondering is i'm considering using an ab amp bridged for my sub. i'm trying for what i would imagine is described as LSQ.

ok i really hate to ask this, but how are you able to tell when your amp starts to "clip"? And what exactly does it mean?

Hey guys, I'm new here but been messing around with audio in my cars on an amateur level for quite a while. I recently decided to do an amp/sub install on my newly acquired 2006 Infiniti M45. It has a factory 14 speaker BOSE system. As far as the audio upgrades I've added is as follows. -Sundown Audio SCV3000d amp -1 Sundown Audio X12 @ 1ohm in ported box to spec -0 gauge wiring ran to trunk to additional audio battery and capacitor -6 gauge wiring from amp to sub -LOC taped into the stock Bose sub inputs Problem is that the sub doesn't sound nearly as loud as it should although the sound it does produce is very clear. I went from 2 SA…

Ok so I've been noticing over the past few days that when my amp is like 30 degrees or les it clips when at half volume. It'll clip like that until the amp has about 5 min of playing then I can't get it to clip? So I think I have a temp sensitive amp. It's a bc2000d made by crescendo. Does anybody elses amps clip when cold?

Alright guys i finally got my FI Dual 1 ohm 12 Bl today and went to installing the sub. As I turned on my deck i received sound from the speakers but no sound came from the subwoofer. 1. I checked the amp (Alpine MRP-1000) Amp light turns on. 2. I checked the rCA'S even switched the RCA'S between both amps no sound from the subwoofer. 3. I checked the deck and switched the subwoofer rca's from subwoofer input and rear space input. still no sound 4. I checked to see if the amp was getting enough power and it was at 12.5 volts at rest 5.i turned on the subwoofer option on and off on the deck and still no sound. 6. I turned th e gain up on the subwoofer from minimum to max…

Hey guys, just to give you a low down on what i have. I have the 2 18 inch SSA prototypes 4,000 RMS being pushed with 1 (for now, soon to have two) AQX3500.1 in a 1997 honda accord SE, and a DC 270 XP alternator. Now, i live in Arizona which i know a lot of other people do who are on SSA forum. My amp is located in the trunk along with the battery. My box sits in the backseat. I am having HUGE cooling problems with the amp because no AC can get to the trunk and the trunk is forced to deal with full exposure unlike most SUV's. The fan helps but i still can't quite seem to get it out of protect and if it does, it takes 5 minutes with the trunk open and the fan running. Not …

Say you have 1 amp with or without an internal crossover that you intend to use for a set of components with an external passive crossover. Is it necessary to utliize the amp internal crossover or another external crossover in addition to the component crossover? OR is it enough to filter out the low frequencies with only the passive component crossover? Thanks for input

soo i started my truck up at the bar,dude wanted to hear the system, cranked it up played a new cd i got. so my amp went into protect. i assume i clip at 26 vol on my head unit it goes to 30. i played it at 26. played the amp at what i would play it to do a demo with out distortion (by ear)and it went into protect! never had this problem AND i just put a xs 3400 under the hood it was at 14.5ish volts no drop....sooo like any ideas why this happened anything i should check or what not?

I just came back from the store but before I made it home my amp, a JL Audio 1000/1 cut off and the low voltage light came on. I have 1 gauge wiring with Big 3 and 1 gauge running to my rear battery. Both my battery are Optima Red Tops. I was listening to at very low volume like 5 and I decided to crank it and after 8 or 10 seconds it cuts out. I'm pushing a 12W7 so I'm not sure whats the deal. Can it be the stinger 200 amp isolator that I have in between my 2 batteries? All my connections are tight and grounded good. What am I missing? I need to fix this so any suggestions? I think this is like the second time it happens. I believe it happened before, so now that I seen …

I have a alpine PDX F6 & amp; M6 and they have been working great since I installed them a few weeks ago. Yesterday I tried to make a call via bluetooth and it sent the F6 into protection. Turned the head unit on and off amp resets and comes back on, now I can not turn the volume up with out the amp going into protection. The bluetooth is what has me the most stumped. Any help on where to start trouble shooting would be great. Thanks

I have a rockford punch 501s bridged to a polkmomo 15 at 2 ohm and it gets too hot and shuts off after about 30-45 min. Bass boost is all the way down and gain is @ 3/4. Gain knobs r messed up though because any less then that the sub is unnoticable. I always ran it at 4 ohm before and never got hot or had any problems. Now it just gets smokin hot. At least 7 years old or so. I guess I should just keep it as a 2 channel then huh?

I have a buddy on another forum that has a KX 600.1 and it keeps going in and out of protection mode. The green light comes on for a while, then cycles back into protect, then green, then protect............. Any idea what the problem is? He let one of his friends mess with it one day and I guess they cranked the gains full tilt. He blew his L7. He took it out for a little while and hooked it up to another driver and it was working fine. When he put it back in his car after getting his new L7, it started doing all this. I think he's screwed, but maybe not. Any suggestions? Thanks!

Well people I am debating to whether to keep my Arc Audio amps installed or take my Zapco DC amps out of the closet and swap the Arc Audio for the Zapco DC. If you were doing the SQ build which one would you do? Thank you Ebrahim

Hi guys i was wondering what amp you would recommend to power a single dual 2 10" SSD sub. Im only wanting to spend no more than 300 dollars on the amp. Any help would be great.

I'd really like to learn (not ask here whenever i have a question) how the amp draws current, and where it draws from (how the alternator comes in to play and such). A buddy was asking me if he should get 2 bls, and i told him his electrical couldn't handle it if he were to power them as much as he wanted to. I'm pretty confident what i told him was right, but i'd really like to know more, it just bugs me to tell him that and not know why myself lol. Anyone know of a good link or two so i can learn about this?

i work at a shop and have a customer who wanted to buy a large power amp. none of our main dealers have anything in his wattage range. so.. down for sound has a JP53 that calls for 600 amps of fusing... then we have a tara amp thats calling for 209 (music) 419 amps sine. both claiming 5KW of power. 120 - 390 amps of difference is (any way you slice it) a massive change in electrical system demand. why would anyone buy a ...? is tara incorrect? bottom line - im digging into efficiency numbers that ive never really had to care much about when working with 500-1500w JL and rockford amps...

its from IKESound and we are crazy tight with cash now.. but I thought I would pass this on to everyone else, (yes there is an ebay specials topic but this one is pretty big) http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-MB-Quart-QAA2500-2...1QQcmdZViewItem anyone able to track down some more info on this model since the website does not admit to ever making amplifers..

whats a good amp for a fi ssd with flatwind coil and bp option added? thats not a high price tag preferably under $300

what amp would be best matched with a 15" SSD w/ the bp option? orion 1200d RF t1001bd Sundown sae-1000 I can get the orion and rf for about 200 locally and I am waiting for the email back for the sundown. What would you guys choose? thanks for any input -Ryan