Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Yea i haven't made a post in a while. but came across this today. Well let me say this I went to the audio shop to grab a couple ft of 1//0 and they want 5.60$ per foot. I know its cheaper online, but weldingsupply.com has thier black 1/0 on sale for 2.15 or 1.99 if you buy over 50ft. cant beat the price https://weldingsupply.com/cgi-bin/einstein.pl?Next::1:UNDEF:OR:terms::PA#A2

I need help running the power wires and the RCA wires through my Buick. I've done other cars but in my Buick everything seems sealed off really well. First where would be the best location to run the power wire through the firewall. Second how would I run the RCA and remote wire behind the head unit. Behind the head unit seems sealed off.

I knew this day would come but haven't been preparing for it. My battery has passed away. It has been through a lot being the first battery I've had since I got into car audio. I need something new. I am running a JL JX360 2 channel for my mids and highs along with a Hifonics BRZ1200.1D for my BL 15. Its somewhere around a total of 1500-1800 wrms. (When the voltage is up, which hasn't been in a while) I have a Stinger 180 amp alternator installed as well. The dimensions I have to work with are 11"w 8"d 8"h. I was looking at an XS power D3400 or maybe a Kinetic KHC1800. Would these be enough to run as the only battery in the car?? (which is a better choice between the two?…

Are all pioneer head units the same volume before clipping mine has max 63 and 75% of that is 47 my deck is deh p500usb

Going to start a new thread for this, but it kind of piggyback's off my previous battery thread. Got my stereo up and running but was noticing some dimming of the lights both internally and externally. Initially was thinking of just upgrading the battery. I took out my DMM and at the battery it was showing 14.0 and right about 14.0 at the amp (might have been 13.9). So all seemed fine, but then I started to turn it up a bit and was noticing on heavy bass hits it was going down to as low as 12.2v. The gain on the amp is a little under 75% and the HU volume at the time was right around 75%. I'm wanting to turn the gain up more on the amp since it sounds like the sub is s…

Just wondered if anyone has used one before on an AGM type batt ? (regular or Jr version)

Please read the classified rules. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/56501-classifieds-rules/

Nothing to special, I bought a cheap amp from a guy on **** and got it in the mail today, its actually a really nice amp its brand new never been used. VVME QA-D1500 I hear its pretty much the same as the Audiopipe ASPM-1500 not sure how true that is. but i figure i could use it one day so ill keep it around for something to play with.

Hey I just made an all new setup in my car. I have 2 skar audip vvx 12s in a 3.7 ft box tuned to 34 hz running off a crescendo bc2k. I have a 100 amp alt not sure if its stock and a northstar agm battery. its pretty much an xs3400. I aslo hace the big 3 done in 1/0 gauge. The setup is alright but it just doesn't slam as hard as I expected. I used to run one of the vvx 12s on a kicker zx1000.1 with the gajn and bass boost like 3/4 up and bassboost and loudness on on my deck and it would slam just as hard as these do now. Iy did burn the voice coil after about 2-3 months though so I learned my lesson about all yhose settings and clipping. Now I just use the bass knob wit…

I was wondering if anyone has any experience with the newer version audiopipe amps. I've used the ap1500's before and they performed well. Usually recommend them for friends. I can't seem to find them anymore. All I see is 'APCL' and 'APSM' series. Looking for a decent ~1000-1500@1 ohm amp for my cousin on a budget.

How much rms should I aim for to power the ICON optimally? How would an amp like this do http://www.americanbassusa.com/product.detail/product_id/137

Replaced my RCA's today and now I have a terrible alt whine. Never had this happen before so Ive been trying to do some research and what the problems could be. Here's what Ive tried so far. I've disconnected the RCA's and the whine goes away. Plugged a factory wire back up with factory speaker and no whine Disconnected the 4 channel amp from the ground block and grounded it independently at another point. Since theres no whine with the factory speaker am I correct in assuming its nothing behind the head unit i.e. radio antenna, HU ground Any other suggestions? Also I did remove the remove and plug in the rca's while the system was running. Just…

I have a alpine PDX F6 & amp; M6 and they have been working great since I installed them a few weeks ago. Yesterday I tried to make a call via bluetooth and it sent the F6 into protection. Turned the head unit on and off amp resets and comes back on, now I can not turn the volume up with out the amp going into protection. The bluetooth is what has me the most stumped. Any help on where to start trouble shooting would be great. Thanks

can anyone recommend me a decent budget amp for an xcon? I've been getting a lot of tickets I don't have money for a sundown right now.. any feedback is appreciated.

Ok so I'm looking for a few suggestions on a few amps for my planned 4 Sundown X 10's or other comparable sub. Vehicle is 07 Mini Cooper s Big 3 1/0 upgrade Battery is stock till it finally goes then plan on an AGM of some sort will worry later on that HU is Pioneer 80 prs as far as goals are concerned I really dont have any I just want to have other Mini's jealous. I know thats a stupd goal but at te moment I'm not competing or showing possibly in future but I just like thhe idea of 4 10's Budget Currently Ha but looking to stay around 400/amp probably looking at 2 amps plus a new 4 channel amp for my Mids/Highs which at time are Kicker SS 56.2 possably into replacing…

I apologize just looking for opinions for the headunit im going to put in my 2012 jeep compass I plan on running components and a sub and 1 if not two amps I am not used to true sound quality ive always done my stereos half assed before truthfully so trying to do it right don't want touch screen or any unnecessary features I have an android cell phone for the purposes of features of my research the unit I like absolutely best is Pioneer DEH-80PRS also considering Kenwood Excelon KDC-X997 Pioneer DEH-X9500BHS Mainly I like the idea of at least 4v preouts I want to try at least a 9 band equalizer with the time synch and other useful things to increase the soun…

I'm thinking about a PRS-80 to replace my Kenwood KDC 896. Its a very good quality deck, but there's not many audio adjustments and the interface is hard to use while driving. Would the PRS-80 be a considerable upgrade from a SQ and ease of use standpoint? . If anyone has a better suggestion for a head unit or maybe an alternative (Sound processors) please let me know. Price cap for head unit - $350 My vehicle and setup 1999 Dodge Dakota SLT EXT cab V-6 Head unit - Kenwood KDC 896 Front- Alpine Type R 6.5" componentsRear - Pioneer TSD 6.5" coaxialsSpeaker amp - Alpine PDX - 5 @ 100 rms *4 VerifiedSubwoofer amp - JL JX 1000/1Subwoofer - SA-12 in 1 cu sealed/Ported box…

Lately I have been having some problems with my alt for some reason. Two days ago on Friday it was working fine and steadily charging around 14.4 while I was driving. Yesterday out of no where while I was driving (not listening to my system) it just decided to drop down to about 12.9. Today while driving I noticed that when I pressed the gas my voltage would severely go down but then if I let off the gas while in gear my voltage would start to rise. When I put it in neutral it would go back down again. I thought I could get away from getting a new alternator for a while because I am only running about 2500 rms, I have my gains set a little lower because of my electrical…

I have a XS Power as a starting battery, 2 runs of 0gauge to my rear batt which is a Deka. I'm wanting to add another deka in the rear and wanted to know if I need to do 2 runs of wire to connect the rear batts together or will 1 run suffice. Thanks

ive recently upgraded my subs and now i cant hear anything when im full tilt. im going to delete the rear speakers and i was looking for a decent 2 ch amp for my front speakers. im curious to see if you guys have any suggestions for a budget amp that can do ~50-100 rms each @ 2 ohm. i had a few questions also. if the amp had lets say 1% THD would that be noticeable? also how important is the signal to noise ratio? would 80db be really bad? (these are extreme examples) another thing, if the amp is cea compliant does that mean their THD and signal to noise numbers must be true, or is it only hold true to rms ratings? thanks!

I'm planning on using some exotic wiring on being able to switch from 2ohm to 0.5ohm for competition via a switch so i do not have to rewire for an hour at every show. I see some copper made 80A relays. What i want to know is this, here is my scenario- Maximum burping current draw can be up to 85A AC. So i opted to use 2 80A relays per speaker in parallel for 160A of heat dissipation. Since Relays only use 10AWG quick disconnects, will quick disconnects be sufficient enough for this wiring? I plan on running modded inserts for 4awg wiring off each terminal of sub to a junction block. Then from there, 10awg to each relay pin, output to another junction box of 8…

Hi, I have juste received an aliante 12si and i'm trying to figure out what amp would cope with it. I don't want mono one but a 2channels... i have a ground zero 4125SQ for the front which is a Focal KRX3. But i'm trying to find other 4-6ch to compare them (Zapco DC, Zed, Mosconi, McIntosh,...) I'm just saying this because i'd like the "project" (not build yet) to stay aesthetic so i will probably stay in the same brand for he amps. Thanks for your help

i know this sounds like a newbie question but i wanted to get the right answer. okay, so i have a rf t1000-1bd. it says that the amp is wired in parallel inside the amp. does this mean i can put a wire from each terminal on my woofer to each one of the 4 outputs and it will automatically take my dual 2 down to a 1 ohm load internally?. basically i wanna bump up the wire size going to my woofer because im used to the jumper and twist technique, but if i can get a fatter 10 gauge wire i'd like to do that. so basically instead of me doing the parallel wiring and only 2 wires coming from my sub, i'll have 2 wires from each voice coil, 4 wires going to my amp and the amp will …

whats up guys? long time no talk! anyways im looking to start back into car audio. first things first... alternator. my stock alternator is 110amp factory with 2 regular car batteries up front (because its a diesel for those who dont know) so my question is, if i keep my stock 110amp alt, 2 regular batteries up fornt and say 1 c&d 75ah battery in back with the big 3 done and all 0 gauge wiring, how many watts do you all think i could run safely? im running a audiopipe 1000 right now on my 2 sa8v2s and i have no light dimming or anything. whats yalls thoughts on this? Also, heres a short video today i threw together of me and my "dancing boost gauge" and caseys zcon…

After my friend pulled his equipment out to get to his spare tire, he replaced it, but could not get the fuses to stop blowing. The way the story has been told to me, he has hooked everything back up the way it is supposed to be, started it, blew the fuses, bought new fuses, blew those, too. What am I missing here? Or what isn't he telling me? Anyone have a solution?