Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Lately I have been having some problems with my alt for some reason. Two days ago on Friday it was working fine and steadily charging around 14.4 while I was driving. Yesterday out of no where while I was driving (not listening to my system) it just decided to drop down to about 12.9. Today while driving I noticed that when I pressed the gas my voltage would severely go down but then if I let off the gas while in gear my voltage would start to rise. When I put it in neutral it would go back down again. I thought I could get away from getting a new alternator for a while because I am only running about 2500 rms, I have my gains set a little lower because of my electrical…

I was wondering if anyone has any experience with the newer version audiopipe amps. I've used the ap1500's before and they performed well. Usually recommend them for friends. I can't seem to find them anymore. All I see is 'APCL' and 'APSM' series. Looking for a decent ~1000-1500@1 ohm amp for my cousin on a budget.

Ok so I'm looking for a few suggestions on a few amps for my planned 4 Sundown X 10's or other comparable sub. Vehicle is 07 Mini Cooper s Big 3 1/0 upgrade Battery is stock till it finally goes then plan on an AGM of some sort will worry later on that HU is Pioneer 80 prs as far as goals are concerned I really dont have any I just want to have other Mini's jealous. I know thats a stupd goal but at te moment I'm not competing or showing possibly in future but I just like thhe idea of 4 10's Budget Currently Ha but looking to stay around 400/amp probably looking at 2 amps plus a new 4 channel amp for my Mids/Highs which at time are Kicker SS 56.2 possably into replacing…

i know this sounds like a newbie question but i wanted to get the right answer. okay, so i have a rf t1000-1bd. it says that the amp is wired in parallel inside the amp. does this mean i can put a wire from each terminal on my woofer to each one of the 4 outputs and it will automatically take my dual 2 down to a 1 ohm load internally?. basically i wanna bump up the wire size going to my woofer because im used to the jumper and twist technique, but if i can get a fatter 10 gauge wire i'd like to do that. so basically instead of me doing the parallel wiring and only 2 wires coming from my sub, i'll have 2 wires from each voice coil, 4 wires going to my amp and the amp will …

Hi, I have juste received an aliante 12si and i'm trying to figure out what amp would cope with it. I don't want mono one but a 2channels... i have a ground zero 4125SQ for the front which is a Focal KRX3. But i'm trying to find other 4-6ch to compare them (Zapco DC, Zed, Mosconi, McIntosh,...) I'm just saying this because i'd like the "project" (not build yet) to stay aesthetic so i will probably stay in the same brand for he amps. Thanks for your help

ive recently upgraded my subs and now i cant hear anything when im full tilt. im going to delete the rear speakers and i was looking for a decent 2 ch amp for my front speakers. im curious to see if you guys have any suggestions for a budget amp that can do ~50-100 rms each @ 2 ohm. i had a few questions also. if the amp had lets say 1% THD would that be noticeable? also how important is the signal to noise ratio? would 80db be really bad? (these are extreme examples) another thing, if the amp is cea compliant does that mean their THD and signal to noise numbers must be true, or is it only hold true to rms ratings? thanks!

I'm planning on using some exotic wiring on being able to switch from 2ohm to 0.5ohm for competition via a switch so i do not have to rewire for an hour at every show. I see some copper made 80A relays. What i want to know is this, here is my scenario- Maximum burping current draw can be up to 85A AC. So i opted to use 2 80A relays per speaker in parallel for 160A of heat dissipation. Since Relays only use 10AWG quick disconnects, will quick disconnects be sufficient enough for this wiring? I plan on running modded inserts for 4awg wiring off each terminal of sub to a junction block. Then from there, 10awg to each relay pin, output to another junction box of 8…

I have a XS Power as a starting battery, 2 runs of 0gauge to my rear batt which is a Deka. I'm wanting to add another deka in the rear and wanted to know if I need to do 2 runs of wire to connect the rear batts together or will 1 run suffice. Thanks

After my friend pulled his equipment out to get to his spare tire, he replaced it, but could not get the fuses to stop blowing. The way the story has been told to me, he has hooked everything back up the way it is supposed to be, started it, blew the fuses, bought new fuses, blew those, too. What am I missing here? Or what isn't he telling me? Anyone have a solution?

Got the sub and amp installed last night, and was noticing some dimming of the headlights driving around. I'm not really wanting to change out the alternator just yet due to warranty, but I'd like to upgrade the battery and hopefully that will resolve it. The amp is an Audioque 1200d running at 1ohm, so its making right around 1200w. Not really sure which route to go for a battery. Should I look in to an Optima or Interstate type battery, or go the route of an XS battery? It would be the main/only battery and used for daily use in both really warm and cold temps.

whats up guys? long time no talk! anyways im looking to start back into car audio. first things first... alternator. my stock alternator is 110amp factory with 2 regular car batteries up front (because its a diesel for those who dont know) so my question is, if i keep my stock 110amp alt, 2 regular batteries up fornt and say 1 c&d 75ah battery in back with the big 3 done and all 0 gauge wiring, how many watts do you all think i could run safely? im running a audiopipe 1000 right now on my 2 sa8v2s and i have no light dimming or anything. whats yalls thoughts on this? Also, heres a short video today i threw together of me and my "dancing boost gauge" and caseys zcon…

Just recently went from 2 ohms to .5 ohms on my Crescendo 3500d and I heard that if you wire down you should always turn down the gain from where you had it originally. I'm really not sure if this is even remotely correct but I did it anyway to be on the safe side. I was just curious if someone could help me out.

Not sure if anyone is really interested, but I got this today. It was a service drop off, we repaired the RCA inputs and the customer never came back. So it's going home with me. I've got some connections who can do a little something for me so we're going to cut a plexiglass sheet for the front and cut outs for the display and the fans, probably going to upgrade the fans and get the whole thing powdercoated.

anyone try any of the newer ppi phantom amps? im looking @ the 900.4 and seems like its inexpensive under 200 shipped for 145 x4 and active capable . wondering if they do rated and are clean sounding amps ... i know the oldschool ppi were great would like to try the newer stuff if its still decent quality . any info is appreciated

I'm running a single saz2500d and I was wondering what battery setup I should run to keep my volts up? Also should I run 1 or 2 batteries? Thanks guys

Gonna buy a single 10" or 12" X or Icon, which ever pops up in the classifieds first. Will be in a .8-9 cuft fiberglass box sealed, polyfilled 1-2lb iirc. This is an under seat setup for a 4 door dodge pickup. I've seen the black ice has been proving a decent amp for the money. Just want to get any last opinions or reasons to not get it and go with something else. I don't want to spend more than $200-250 on an amp at the moment. Thanks!

Well, I didn't mean to buy it but I'm glad to have it, at least for now, lol. Found an auction for a used AG650 in great working shape with 5 days left to go. I tossed in a bid $5 higher than the current high bid and was the high bidder. I figured for sure someone would have come in and outbid me fast on it, but nope, I ended up winning it. Yay for me, I think. I'm not sure if I'm going to keep it or not, so if anyone's interested you can always make me an offer, lol. So anyway, onto a few pictures for shits and giggles. Larger than I expected it to be. It's in beautiful shape with only a few minor scratches.

I recently bought a MMATS 2100.2 thinking it was a 2100 rms at 2ohm amp only to find out it is really a 1550 watt RMS and 2100 watt peak amp. WTF!!!! I am really disappointed about this, I wouldnt think a great company like MMATS would be so misleading. I bought the amp to step up power to my IA Death Penalty, I had a Kicker ZX1500.1. Well when I pulled out the Kicker and replaced it I found to my suprise that the MMATS wasnt as loud as my other amp. The Kicker is adverised as 1500 watts but originally came with a birth sheet showing that it tested arround 1700 watts. So I guess Kicker actually under rates there amps while MMATS advertises 2100 watts and only produces 155…

will a 130amp alternator suffice for a SSA ZCON 15 D1 either at .5 or 1ohm on a Crescendo bc200D and some other goodies down the road or would a 200amp alt be better

I have a alpine PDX F6 & amp; M6 and they have been working great since I installed them a few weeks ago. Yesterday I tried to make a call via bluetooth and it sent the F6 into protection. Turned the head unit on and off amp resets and comes back on, now I can not turn the volume up with out the amp going into protection. The bluetooth is what has me the most stumped. Any help on where to start trouble shooting would be great. Thanks

I have a Mark Antony Gspot GS754S. I can't find any information on it! Can anyone help me? Any information would be appreciated!

Anyone ran an ap3000 at 1 ohm? I have seen that people have. Just seeing if someone here personally has

I've got a crescendo 1000c4 that can run either 500w x2 bridged at 4 ohms 250w x2 bridged at 8 ohms how can i tell if its wired at 4 or 8 ohms ? and if it was at 4 ohms would an s4 sub work ? or only d4

Anybody on the forum fix amps? I hav a shok industries II. Got it in a trade amp is blown

I've been searching around for some 3/0 lugs for my electrical upgrade. I really prefer using the split barrel over the solid like most of what you see. Like this: I found some on amazon for $2 each. I know I can use the solid barrel but they all seem so damn bulky. Well, not that 3/0 isn't bulky anyway but I'm not trying to have a huge stack of crap on all my connections either. Nor am I trying to spend $100 on some terminals. Anyone have any good reliable sources to look at? Any suggestions? I'm not totally against using the solid barrel lugs if they are fairly compact. Usually I use something like the Knu terminals and call it a day but they don't offe…