Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Got the sub and amp installed last night, and was noticing some dimming of the headlights driving around. I'm not really wanting to change out the alternator just yet due to warranty, but I'd like to upgrade the battery and hopefully that will resolve it. The amp is an Audioque 1200d running at 1ohm, so its making right around 1200w. Not really sure which route to go for a battery. Should I look in to an Optima or Interstate type battery, or go the route of an XS battery? It would be the main/only battery and used for daily use in both really warm and cold temps.

Just recently went from 2 ohms to .5 ohms on my Crescendo 3500d and I heard that if you wire down you should always turn down the gain from where you had it originally. I'm really not sure if this is even remotely correct but I did it anyway to be on the safe side. I was just curious if someone could help me out.

Not sure if anyone is really interested, but I got this today. It was a service drop off, we repaired the RCA inputs and the customer never came back. So it's going home with me. I've got some connections who can do a little something for me so we're going to cut a plexiglass sheet for the front and cut outs for the display and the fans, probably going to upgrade the fans and get the whole thing powdercoated.

I'm running a single saz2500d and I was wondering what battery setup I should run to keep my volts up? Also should I run 1 or 2 batteries? Thanks guys

I recently bought a MMATS 2100.2 thinking it was a 2100 rms at 2ohm amp only to find out it is really a 1550 watt RMS and 2100 watt peak amp. WTF!!!! I am really disappointed about this, I wouldnt think a great company like MMATS would be so misleading. I bought the amp to step up power to my IA Death Penalty, I had a Kicker ZX1500.1. Well when I pulled out the Kicker and replaced it I found to my suprise that the MMATS wasnt as loud as my other amp. The Kicker is adverised as 1500 watts but originally came with a birth sheet showing that it tested arround 1700 watts. So I guess Kicker actually under rates there amps while MMATS advertises 2100 watts and only produces 155…

anyone try any of the newer ppi phantom amps? im looking @ the 900.4 and seems like its inexpensive under 200 shipped for 145 x4 and active capable . wondering if they do rated and are clean sounding amps ... i know the oldschool ppi were great would like to try the newer stuff if its still decent quality . any info is appreciated

Gonna buy a single 10" or 12" X or Icon, which ever pops up in the classifieds first. Will be in a .8-9 cuft fiberglass box sealed, polyfilled 1-2lb iirc. This is an under seat setup for a 4 door dodge pickup. I've seen the black ice has been proving a decent amp for the money. Just want to get any last opinions or reasons to not get it and go with something else. I don't want to spend more than $200-250 on an amp at the moment. Thanks!

Anybody on the forum fix amps? I hav a shok industries II. Got it in a trade amp is blown

Well, I didn't mean to buy it but I'm glad to have it, at least for now, lol. Found an auction for a used AG650 in great working shape with 5 days left to go. I tossed in a bid $5 higher than the current high bid and was the high bidder. I figured for sure someone would have come in and outbid me fast on it, but nope, I ended up winning it. Yay for me, I think. I'm not sure if I'm going to keep it or not, so if anyone's interested you can always make me an offer, lol. So anyway, onto a few pictures for shits and giggles. Larger than I expected it to be. It's in beautiful shape with only a few minor scratches.

will a 130amp alternator suffice for a SSA ZCON 15 D1 either at .5 or 1ohm on a Crescendo bc200D and some other goodies down the road or would a 200amp alt be better

I have a Mark Antony Gspot GS754S. I can't find any information on it! Can anyone help me? Any information would be appreciated!

Anyone ran an ap3000 at 1 ohm? I have seen that people have. Just seeing if someone here personally has

I've got a crescendo 1000c4 that can run either 500w x2 bridged at 4 ohms 250w x2 bridged at 8 ohms how can i tell if its wired at 4 or 8 ohms ? and if it was at 4 ohms would an s4 sub work ? or only d4

my kw-nx7000 finally died. I am looking at this unit as a cheap replacement: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_42331_JVC-KD-X50BT.html. My goal is to find a cheap , reliable HU with bluetooth, ipod control, at least 2 RCA outputs. Thoughts?

I was wondering if I could safely run my 1800.1 at one ohm on a d3400 under the hood and a stock 117 amp alternator? I think it is pushing the envelope but input would be appreciated.

I've been searching around for some 3/0 lugs for my electrical upgrade. I really prefer using the split barrel over the solid like most of what you see. Like this: I found some on amazon for $2 each. I know I can use the solid barrel but they all seem so damn bulky. Well, not that 3/0 isn't bulky anyway but I'm not trying to have a huge stack of crap on all my connections either. Nor am I trying to spend $100 on some terminals. Anyone have any good reliable sources to look at? Any suggestions? I'm not totally against using the solid barrel lugs if they are fairly compact. Usually I use something like the Knu terminals and call it a day but they don't offe…

Ok so I'm staring to piece together and figure out what I need for my electrical pieces.. I will have a second battery in the rear. running two amps. Sub amp -T1500-1bdCP Front Stage amp is undecided at the moment. I have 1/0 Gauge OFC running to the back. probably ~15ft run. My plan is. Battery up front + (in line fuse)>>>>> (inline fuse) Battery Rear Positive + Ground up front will be left alone. Ground in the rear will be placed in the factory installed Ground fused to the body in the trunk. For the amps.... Running from rear battery ----- Short zero gauge OFC to a fused distribution block >>>>From the fused …

Im needing a good amount of some 14 awg speaker wire for my rebuild. Can anyone point me in the right direction of best product for the money? ive tried a few spots and cant seem to find the quality im looking for. Also I know senchez listed a few places/links to buy things at good prices but cant find that post now...

I put my mechman 240a alt on and have a group 65 diehard platinum under hood and small stinger in back. when playing full tilt on heavy bass im seeing low 12s. If i add another big plat in the back will this keep my voltage in the 13s or will it still drop to 12s as that's what the batteries rest at? this may be stupid question but none the less i am curious.

All the old guys in here will recognize the old beauties, I scored a Carver M-2060 and an M-4060. Running in perfect shape and loving every second of looking at them. Will be installing soon, but I'm trying to decide whether or not to run both amps to an active 3 way setup, or should I just run 2 way and use the 2 channel for my other car's front stage (passive), any opinions? Plans are a pair of DP 12's or 15's in the trunk of an 88 Cadillac Eldorado. Front stage is what I'm trying to decide on. Probably looking at Helix's 2 or 3 way Competition Series Components.

Going to use it to power an RE audio 15" SE-X subwoofer. wondering did I make a mistake with this amp? Or are people saying good things about them still? For now, the sub will be seeing 2 cubic feet sealed, as I am currently in a budget crunch and don't want to shell the cash to build a different enclosure (this is also the reason for the amp choice, was price point).

Not sure if I should I get the battery for the front or should I go with the larger ah one in the back.

i am currently running a power bass XAX-2160FD 2ch x 100rms at 4 ohms and a percision power BK1300.1D that is 1300rms at 1 ohm. i have just the stock alternator which i believe is 70a. and also the stock battery. if i was going to buy a single battery or possibly 2 batterys what size should i get and what brand?

does anyone know what do I need to do to my electrical to run a 1000 watt amp? I will be using a fosgate punch.

Hi, there is a "high" level and "low" level sensitivity switch on my JL amp. The manual suggests to set at "high" but I almost get no movement from the sub until I turn the gain at least halfway. Setting it at "low" seems to boost the signal input and the sub bumps alot more with the gain at zero compared to halfway setting before? I usually set mode slope to 24db as it sounds better to me and center frequency 65hz and low pass around 80-100 depending on size/box the sub is in. Its a sealed 400w 10" that I've been fooling with, so should I keep input at "high" level setting and boost sub eq on headunit and gain more? Or just stick with what sounds best? I have 4v preouts,…