Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I was wondering if I could safely run my 1800.1 at one ohm on a d3400 under the hood and a stock 117 amp alternator? I think it is pushing the envelope but input would be appreciated.

Not sure if I should I get the battery for the front or should I go with the larger ah one in the back.

All the old guys in here will recognize the old beauties, I scored a Carver M-2060 and an M-4060. Running in perfect shape and loving every second of looking at them. Will be installing soon, but I'm trying to decide whether or not to run both amps to an active 3 way setup, or should I just run 2 way and use the 2 channel for my other car's front stage (passive), any opinions? Plans are a pair of DP 12's or 15's in the trunk of an 88 Cadillac Eldorado. Front stage is what I'm trying to decide on. Probably looking at Helix's 2 or 3 way Competition Series Components.

my kw-nx7000 finally died. I am looking at this unit as a cheap replacement: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_42331_JVC-KD-X50BT.html. My goal is to find a cheap , reliable HU with bluetooth, ipod control, at least 2 RCA outputs. Thoughts?

does anyone know what do I need to do to my electrical to run a 1000 watt amp? I will be using a fosgate punch.

Going to use it to power an RE audio 15" SE-X subwoofer. wondering did I make a mistake with this amp? Or are people saying good things about them still? For now, the sub will be seeing 2 cubic feet sealed, as I am currently in a budget crunch and don't want to shell the cash to build a different enclosure (this is also the reason for the amp choice, was price point).

Hi, there is a "high" level and "low" level sensitivity switch on my JL amp. The manual suggests to set at "high" but I almost get no movement from the sub until I turn the gain at least halfway. Setting it at "low" seems to boost the signal input and the sub bumps alot more with the gain at zero compared to halfway setting before? I usually set mode slope to 24db as it sounds better to me and center frequency 65hz and low pass around 80-100 depending on size/box the sub is in. Its a sealed 400w 10" that I've been fooling with, so should I keep input at "high" level setting and boost sub eq on headunit and gain more? Or just stick with what sounds best? I have 4v preouts,…

Yea i haven't made a post in a while. but came across this today. Well let me say this I went to the audio shop to grab a couple ft of 1//0 and they want 5.60$ per foot. I know its cheaper online, but weldingsupply.com has thier black 1/0 on sale for 2.15 or 1.99 if you buy over 50ft. cant beat the price https://weldingsupply.com/cgi-bin/einstein.pl?Next::1:UNDEF:OR:terms::PA#A2

Going to be picking up my 88 Cadillac Eldorado this weekend and it needs a new battery under the hood. I need the biggest bang for my buck. I'm looking at WalMart since Marine Batteries are cheap. Any suggestions on which has the most oomph without having to tear under hood to fit something. I'll be running extra batteries in the back for the future, but right now I'll just need to run a Carver PMA 2062 for front stage and a Helix SPXL1000B in the future to run a pair of DP's. My budget is around 100 bucks.

Ok so I'm staring to piece together and figure out what I need for my electrical pieces.. I will have a second battery in the rear. running two amps. Sub amp -T1500-1bdCP Front Stage amp is undecided at the moment. I have 1/0 Gauge OFC running to the back. probably ~15ft run. My plan is. Battery up front + (in line fuse)>>>>> (inline fuse) Battery Rear Positive + Ground up front will be left alone. Ground in the rear will be placed in the factory installed Ground fused to the body in the trunk. For the amps.... Running from rear battery ----- Short zero gauge OFC to a fused distribution block >>>>From the fused …

i am currently running a power bass XAX-2160FD 2ch x 100rms at 4 ohms and a percision power BK1300.1D that is 1300rms at 1 ohm. i have just the stock alternator which i believe is 70a. and also the stock battery. if i was going to buy a single battery or possibly 2 batterys what size should i get and what brand?

I live in indianapolis. When the day comes that I get my equipment installed is there anyone on here that could help me with getting my amps setup properly so I do damage my speakers

has anyone ever used them I have 2 of them that rest at 13v and are 210ah a piece just wondering

I put my mechman 240a alt on and have a group 65 diehard platinum under hood and small stinger in back. when playing full tilt on heavy bass im seeing low 12s. If i add another big plat in the back will this keep my voltage in the 13s or will it still drop to 12s as that's what the batteries rest at? this may be stupid question but none the less i am curious.

I tried searching for this but couldn't find anything on it. I have a DieHard G34M and they have 2 terminals on the top Is there any difference between these 2 terminals?

I have noticed on DCsoundlab the difference in RMS output power from 16V to 18V 14.4V 4 ohm 900W x 1 2 ohm 2,300W x 1 1 ohm 5,000W x 1 1 ohm 16V 6,000W x 1 1 ohm 18V 7,300W x 1 http://www.dcsoundlab.com/5k.html These are the specs for the DC 5K. Now when the bass hits hard on my current 12V setup, I dip from 14.4V to 12.3V If I ran an 18V setup, and dipped to 16.3V while playing music, does that mean the RMS output power would dip at least 1,000 watts? Thank you.

I have ordered a D3400 for the trunk and front bat on my car. Should I have gotten the 3100 for the rear. If I read the details correctly it just has a larger AH value which means it should stay charged longer(I believe). If I have made a poor choice please let me know I will be running around 4k on a 270 amp alt. two runs of positive 1/0. Also would it be overkill to have more than one battery in trunk. I realize power is the hole key. Just wanted opinions to help me make correct decision even though I already have the two D3400 just wanted to get third and if the trunk bats are incorrect I will have to sell and order correctly.

I seen manufactured published specs on an amp and was curious on something to see if this is common among all amps or just this particular one. They listed the current draw for voltage tested and output power so calculating efficiency was easy. Here is what it shows at a 1 ohm load- 14.4v- 78% 16v- 77% 18v- 71% Is this normal performance among 18v amps?

Im needing a good amount of some 14 awg speaker wire for my rebuild. Can anyone point me in the right direction of best product for the money? ive tried a few spots and cant seem to find the quality im looking for. Also I know senchez listed a few places/links to buy things at good prices but cant find that post now...

i was looking to see if anyone in the orange county area had a dd1 that i could use really quick to set my buddies gains. we could bring some beers out for the hassle. i was hoping to get it done some time next weekend or whenever is best for the owner of the dd1 thanks!

Hello, I have two 12" SSA GCON dual 4ohm vc subwoofers in a sealed box I made. (750w rms each) I was previously driving each subwoofer with an Infinity Kappa One amp, 800W @ 2ohm, but my stupid pre-out adapter decided to push 12V to the amps, frying their input circuitry. So I guess I need a new amp or two, and was wondering recommendations, and what info you need in order to give good advice. Car: 2011 Dodge Charger Hemi Sound deadened trunk (2-3 layers ballistics damper) Wire: 1/0 KnuConcepts to the amp, 10 gauge to the speakers Speakers: Two 12" SSA GCON dual 4ohm voice coils, 750W power handling, RMS Enclosure: wedge shaped, dual 12", 1.5^3 foo…

I drive a 2006 Chevy Malibu LT and was wanting to install an after market in dash DVD unit. The problem am having is finding the correct interface. I do have the on star option but it isnt currently in use nor will it be if this helps. There are may different interface out there and am just needing some help finding the correct one for my vehicle. I am planning on installing the Pioneer AVH-2500BT unit. Any help would be greatly appricated. Thanks

So I have a SoundStorm (SSL) EV4000D. I've had it for about a year and a half, and never have had a problem with it, except that I have blown two Subs with it. The first one was a Pioneer TS-W3002D4 which lasted about 8 months and then the most current one which blew today was a Kicker CompRT12. So i need suggestions of what kind of sub i should get because obviously the last two were a fail. I want something that will thump my price range is up to $250. Hope I can get some feedback.

Hi I'd like some advices to choose a 4ch amp with a budget of 450$ max. Please feel free to make some suggestions. For information, it will be connected to a Focal 165 KRX3. Any feedback on those ? Xetec Prestige Evo P4 ARC Audio FD 4150 ZED Audio Draconia III - 4 Sundown Audio SAX-100.4 V2 Gladen XL-150c4 Precision Power PC640.4 Mosconi One 120.4 Audison Vrx 4.300 Thanks

I'm thinking about a PRS-80 to replace my Kenwood KDC 896. Its a very good quality deck, but there's not many audio adjustments and the interface is hard to use while driving. Would the PRS-80 be a considerable upgrade from a SQ and ease of use standpoint? . If anyone has a better suggestion for a head unit or maybe an alternative (Sound processors) please let me know. Price cap for head unit - $350 My vehicle and setup 1999 Dodge Dakota SLT EXT cab V-6 Head unit - Kenwood KDC 896 Front- Alpine Type R 6.5" componentsRear - Pioneer TSD 6.5" coaxialsSpeaker amp - Alpine PDX - 5 @ 100 rms *4 VerifiedSubwoofer amp - JL JX 1000/1Subwoofer - SA-12 in 1 cu sealed/Ported box…