Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

What are you guys' opinions on these amps. Just want some feedback on it. Thanks!

http://www.millionbuy.com/pakov22600.html how is that amp? does it make the power it says? I need to run 4 aa 8's at about 300 watts per sub and would like a little more power to have

i have a 2nd post similar to this but not as on point so ive made this one to nail down some questions and make things more searchable in the future. coworker was setting gains on an amp the other day and what he was doing got me thinking. if you follow mecp and set gain off a 40hz tone wouldn't the power output of that amp change drastically if the box were tuned to say 29hz or 55hz (something 1/2 or more octave above/below the frequency you are generating? or transversely if the box were tuned at 40hz...) the thermal handling of both amp and sub (assuming that's one thing you do such a procedure to keep in check) would change drastically while playing music. so wou…

i just bought a crossfire vr-2000d that was apparently modded to handle high voltages and .5 ohm loads. well, today i hooked it up just to see if it worked, and to my dismay, it wasnt as loud turned up 2/3 of the way as my nine.1 was at 2/3. this amp should do more than twice the power of the nine.1 so im a little confused. it does play, bass sounds fine, its just not loud. i have both power supplies hooked up, a 1/0 gauge from my battery going back to a dist. block into 2 4 gauge wires, and just 2 4 gauges at the back grounding the power supplies. my electrical system is very solid, and both power supplies are getting 14.5 volts. the remote wires are both getting about 1…

What was your favorite amplifier you have ever owned, and why was it your favorite? Just a fun topic that involves some retrospect. I was listening to my system, just taking it in today on the way home from work. I had to do too much thinking about my favorite comp set ever and still haven't really nailed down my fave, my favorite sub was simple, but the amp took a little thought. I had to weigh out a few, but the top few were definitely easy to recall. So give it up... The favorite you ever owned and why.

i want to have a test bench that i can test subs and amps and speakers on maybe even one that i can test how many true rms watts an amps is i have an extra head unit and some speakers i can hook up and a couple amps that need testing i just dont want to pull out my system to test them. how would i go about setting up a test bench? what do i need to set it up if someone has one can you take a video of it and show how you hooked yours up? please and thank you

no upgrded alternator yet but im in the process of looking for one for a 2003 saturn ion, the stock alternator is 105 amps. the starting battery is stock and i will be getting a xs power d2400 for my secondary battery for the 3000 watt rms system first and then change my starting battery. i wanted to know which one would be better just for starting purposes even though i know red tops are designed just for starting a vehicle best. i have researched and heard pros for a yellow and pros for a red, why would i want a yellowtop as a starting battery if i have a xs power battery in the back?

I want to use a JL Audio XD400/4 amplifier to drive my front stage two-way component set. This amplifier is four channel but is bridgeable. I have a two channel input signal for the XD400/4. If I read the manual correctly, I need a y-adapter (I will just make a RCA cable with 2 in 4 out) to connect to the XD400/4 to use the amplifier as a L+R bridged. Right? So basically the XD400/4 needs a four channel input to run as stereo bridged? From the XD400/4 manual: "When a pair of the XD400/4’s channels are operating in bridged mode, the output will be in mono (only one channel). This mono channel can contain right channel only information, left channel only information or the …

I am looking to but 1 18" BTL Fi subwoofer. I can build the box (i hope) and can do a proper job installing it. I have a sufficient enough amp sending 3500 watts continuous power its way. I have 0ga power wire ran 10ga speaker wire. But i have the stock alternator and battery. Is this a problem? would a nice cap handle the difference? Or what should i get to solve the problem?

Hey guys, just wondering if anyone hear has any experience with critical mass amps. I know they are crazy money but that isnt my concern. I just want to know if they can throw out decent power. I had picked up the v2 series pretty cheap and have not used them yet. I didnt want them, but my buddy needed money for his house. Any input good or bad would be nice. I have put a side the money for a sundown 1500d for the summer, but in the mean time i was thinking of swaping my pdx 1000-1 for the critical mass v2 sub amp. Should I do it? (the v2 are the smaller black ones)

Sunday i finally got my amp installed at the local shop.. (soundstream ref 2.640) I drive an 06 xterra so we put it in "gully" of the back above the spare tire. Drove home.. noticed a slight smell figured it was the amp burning in... drove to work monday am.. no issues .. driving home monday the amp started cutting out on me.. got home lifted the "cover" of the area where the amp was noticed it was VERY VERY hot to touch and the amber light on .... figured wow guess there is not enough airflow..and the amp over heated...(not sure if you ever saw the back of an xterra but this is a big space) so figured i would just take the cover off... drove to work this am.. no proble…

Hey i have a xcon 10 in my trailblazer and i am looking to put more power to it. I am currently running a cadence a7hc but the sub can handle a lot more power and i would like to be louder. I have it in a 1.1 box at 35 hz. I guess i need 1800-2000+ watts and would like to keep it under 400. Any ideas on a good amp?

So Shizzzon got my attention with some cheap 4/0 gauge he got. I'm thinking of adding a couple of 4/0 grounds and a couple 4/0 runs from alt to my front batts. I have never worked with the stuff before. I will be upgrading my alt to a 400 amp eventually so I'm trying to plan ahead. Since the length of these runs will be shorter than 6-7 feet will there be any benefit vs 0 gauge? Is there a way to fuse 4/0 wire? Also what lugs do you use for your 4/0 wire the only ones I found have a minimum buy amount of 10?

Well the last couple days my "check charging system" light has been coming on so I went out today and my car is only charging at around 11 volts.. its driving and staring fine so I dont understand. I haven't had any audio in my car for months now which makes it even more weird. . Right now I have a 220 amp alt and just 2 of my batts in the car. Could this only be the alt messing up? Is there anything I can check before I swap alts?

aight i see that AP came out with a new amp the Ap AQX3500.1 anyone have any reliable info on it? does it actually do rated... i have heard good things about the ap3000.1 just curious if would be a good investment if i decided to upgrade my system?

I have a chance to pick up a Ultra Linear UL1500X for $50 bucks and was wondering if it was a good amp and price? It would be used to replace my Earthquake PH120.2. to run 2 Earthquake dbx10 10 subs. Here are the specs: 1500W Class X Mono Block Amplifier 12-17V Power Input 0.2-8V RCA Input Voltage Frequency Response 10 Hz - 350 Hz Short / Overload / Thermal Protection Bridgeable with second Class X amplifier 24dB Variable Subsonic Filter 24dB Variable Low Pass Filter 0-18dB Variable Bass Boost Remote Gain Control Module RCA Line Output RMS Power @ 14.4V DC 1 x 500W @ 4 Ohm 1 x 750W @ 2 Ohm 1 x 1000W @ 1 Ohm RMS Power @ 17V DC 1 x 750W @ 4 Ohm 1 x 1000W @ 2 Ohm 1 x 1500W @…

I have an 08 Jeep patriot that will most likely be seeing a Hybrid Audio Legatia L8/L1 pro combo up front and a single sub in the rear. I have been weighing my options and I am curious. I am going for a stealth install, so basically you will see the amp. I'll be using the factory 6 cd head-unit so my options are this amp, an h701/rux-c701 combo or a rockford fosgate 360.2. The sub section will be one 8" sub seeing 360 watts at 4 ohms. Which option would you go with if your goal was awesome sq from a stealth install using factory head-unit, factory mounting locations etc...

I'm getting ready to do another electrical upgrade and have been poking around a bit. Thought I'd try out Knukonceptz's gear this go around. I saw some of their lines use compression fittings and really like the design. I've never been that big of a fan of smashing a wire in with a screw but it does work. Any experience with these fittings? Often something that looks cool doesn't always play out well in the real world. I've used compression fittings adapting hardline to braided hose and sometimes it can be a pita. Although this is a little different, wasn't sure if they were worth the effort and how secure the connection is. Thanks! http://www.knukoncep...mages/Komp…

My amplifier keeps getting EXTREMELY HOT and going into protection mode after 30-45 minutes of listening to music. I bought a 4.4 Farad capacitor to help fix the problem but it keeps happening.. Any suggestions? I have a Acura RSX 2003 with 4 Pioneer TS-A1604C 6.5 Speakers, Boss PH4.600 Phantom 2400 Watt Mosfet 4-Channel Bridgeable Amplifier, and a 4.4 Farad Capacitor. I am very sure I installed everything correctly because it sounds very good but after 30-45 minutes It goes into protection mode. Also, I forgot to mention I have a radio JVC KDX50BT which has a integrated parametric. That is why I didn't have to buy a separate one. I don't know if this is of any importan…

The subs I'm most likely getting are the Mach 5 IXL-12.2.2...two of them, and they are only Dual 2. With the Orion, I'd need to run it @ 0.5 ohm. With the Directed, I can run it @ 2 ohm. With the Directed, it has to come across the border. Which would you get? I can get both for the same price, but the Directed has to come across the border..

i was looking to see if anyone in the orange county area had a dd1 that i could use really quick to set my buddies gains. we could bring some beers out for the hassle. i was hoping to get it done some time next weekend or whenever is best for the owner of the dd1 thanks!

What do you guys think the best amp would be for my SSD 15 - Copper Coil - DVC 2 Ohm I was looking at the hifonics brutus 1209d - (1200 rms @ 1 ohm ) - $174 shipped The owner of an audio shop down the road from me said that he had a planet audio amp for $200 that puts out 900 rms @ 1 ohm. Thats my two options right now that i'm looking at. I don't really need anything above 1k RMS because its not really needed for my SSD Right?? I don't really want to spend much over 200, but if you guys think that those two options above aren't good at all i'll reconsider. I just wanted to run it buy some of you guys for advice before I drop this money on an amp. ALL information is…

I was wondering what type of amp i should get to power 2 12 RL-Ps so that they can still bump real loud but have good sound quality. I am looking for an amp that is not to expensive. Hopefully under 250 if possible. I have been recommended the Hifonics Hifonics BX1205D/BX1605D, are there any comments on those amps? Will they work well? Any other amps that may be able to do the job? Thanks. Mike

Just curious if anyone knows of a double din touchscreen hu that could keep up with something such as the 80prs audio control wise. I like to use cds and usbdrives, so extra points for those additionally.

im desperately trying to find an amp for my 15" BTL dual 2. Its got the 3rd mag, himax coil, and cooling. its in a nice box, look at my sig for the specs on it. I also have an upgraded electrical system including a 160 amp HO alt, kinetic 2400 & kinetic 1400, big 3, and all my wiring is 0 AWG. I also have a voltage stabilizer connected to my electrical system. has any one ever had any experiences or comments on the Sound Stream PCA3500D PICASSO? Is it a good amp, it says its rated at 3500 RMS at 1 ohm. What do you think ill actually be getting with my upgraded electrical system. thanks -wes