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Discuss Head Units, Amplification, Processors, And All Electrical System Inquiries Here.
5,712 topics in this forum
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I have an older 4 channel class AB amplifier that was made by Dragster Audio Art. Amplifier goes straight into protect. I asked Chris at dB-r a couple years ago and he said more than likely it was bad output fets. Chris does not work on older amplifiers like this anymore. I am looking for some feedback on Ampmedics more than anything as we know what kinda quality Mr. Mantz is known for. Here is a couple board shots of the amplifer. It is actually a great amplifier and was solidly built in the EU (European Union).
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Had planned on going passive, but want to look at all of the options. It is hard to find good information on crossovers on any forum. Would love to assemble a shopping list to compare and thought I would see if you would reply with what you are using. Adding an approximate cost would be great too. Thanks!
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i just got a new box built for my subs ( 2 12 inch dual 2 ohm L5 kickers in a 6.5-7 cube box tuned to 35 htz). i picked it up from the guy and set my amp at 25 htz with the gain set at about half way from what i can see on the dial. first, i must say it sounded amazing! i was running a 3.3 cube box that was kinda jimmy rigged together by the guy i bought them from so this is exquisite great sound, good range and a ton of sound pressure. if anyone needs a box built in central to eastern washington/ central idaho let me know i'll get you in contact with triticum audio. ok, so the guy that built my box also installed the subs and wired in at a 4 ohm load. about a week afte…
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Hey all, I was just wondering how nice this amp compares against something like a TRU amp? I can get this for probably around the same price as a t-4.65. Also, if anyone can throw out some other high end 4 channel amps that would be greatly appreciated. thanks :ph34r:
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Im just looking for a little info on what you guys think the best headunit out of the above choices would be. They are all capable of running active frontstage which is what im looking for. And im pretty sure I can get them at or around the same price. Any of you guys with experience with any of the choices, please post any likes/dislikes. Thanks.
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So I finished installing my 2 12" GCONS/Kicker ZX1000.1/LC2i/DC-Creations Sealed Enclosure into my 2012 GLI and I have a couple of questions for some of you more experienced guys. My car had a factory subwoofer (fender audio system) so I tapped into the subwoofer speaker wires for the line-out signal. The low frequency bass sounds GREAT but the higher frequencies are weak, almost like they're dropping off. Since the factory subwoofer was hitting all these higher bass notes before I disconnected it, the factory head unit/amp MUST be sending the full range signal back to the input of the LC2i, no? I can't figure out why I'm not hitting the full range of bass. Current Set…
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So I have Audison Voce tweeters, mid range & mid bass on my challenger & need help choosing a 6 channel amp & also have audison bit one on vehcile. Was looking at the arc audio xdi 1200.6 or mosconi one 6ch series but the arc audio has more wattage & its cheaper.
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What's up yall. I'm new to this. I have a 08 double cab Toyota Tacoma for right now. Might get rid of it. Electrical is big 3 upgrade, zues lithium 10-ah, 0 Guage copper ofc wire. Amps, ampere 75.4 and rockford t1500.1bdcp. 4 6.5 dream series 6.5s. Ampere 3.0 v3 12 4th order 2.5/1 ratio tuned to 47hz. Amp is goin out due to friend I let use ran on poor electrical at .5 ohms not knowing so. Sub is locked up due to when it was upgraded motor wasn't torqued right and shifted. Will fix in the future but I'm set on getting a supercharged dd 3500 series 12 next. Will be running 2 in the future as well but buying only 1 to run next year. Also upgrading amp and trying to decid…
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Got my temporary ap1500d in the mail and installed. Set the gains via voltmeter, which I know is not the best method but thats what I have currently. Also tried confirming with my ear. Have 0 to 4 gauge reducers both put in, and included a picture of everything. Wired at 2ohms, voltage doesn't drop at ALL before protection light kicks in. The old amp would drop the voltage into the 12s. Gain is not even a 4th of the way up. With the new amp, its not as loud as it was nor is there as much flex as there was with my mtx7801d. Did I do something wrong? I feel this amp should be "putting out" better than what it is.
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Is it possible to wire four 4 ohm dvc subs to a 2 channel amp, with each channel seeing 2 ohms? I have them running at four ohms, but can you use series and parallel wiring to create this load? If I set each sub in parallel wiring (+ to + and - to -, right?)and then run the - from one channel to one sub, the positive from that channel to the other sub, and a wire connecting the other + and - terminals from sub to sub, would this do it? Here's what I'm talking about. (pic may not work) Just hooked up these subs, but they sound distorted and just terrible, will they sound better after they break in, or just lower/louder? Replaced 4 RF P1 12's with 4 infinity 1252w's, a…
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I see people saying their rms "clamped" all the time, I'm curious to know what my Memphis is actually putting out. I have an amp probe and a dmm. How would I go about clamping my amp to see the power it is putting out?
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Yo guyz I have a budget of about 200$ I need a good head unit with high and low pass crossovers for running active. Ive been checking out the ken wood kdc-x996. It's just a hair out of my budget but seems nice. Any other good units like this?
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With CCA power wire becoming more popular due to cost, it may be benefical to do some research on the brand your buying as there are plenty of companies trying to sell total crap! Check out the pic below from KnuKonceptz and check out the tru differences.
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recently pruchased 3 sets up soundqubed pq mids looking for an amp that can power them much like everyone I am on a budget but i do not wish to sacrifice quality for price . Just having a hard time finding an amp that can fit these prequisites. any help is appreciated
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All together there will be 5 105ah battarys on a buss bar I noticed they have a cheaper version of the one iv been recommended just wondering what makes this so special an is it worth the extra $100 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0045F3SGY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9p1Tyb2YMB2WY?tag=vs-auto-convert-amazon-20
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Hey all.I just got this battery today and I opened the box and found this.Its cracked right by the negitive terminal!!! So my question is can I still use it?Its soposed to me a deka 9a31.Help me please!!!
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any know if this puts out rated power has to 80amp fuses so 1 would think it would put out rated but just want to make sure thans for the help .will be running off my stock batt with ho 170amp alt and knu 1/0 with big 3
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so i recently bought 2 sundown sa 12's, 1 saz 1500d, a box that the subs came in tuned to 34 with about 3 cubes, and a spare battery plus 2 gauge wiring all around ( i think) for $1000 bucks. i traded the battery for a new box from a friend of a friend thats 4.5 cubes and tuned to 28. i also bought a new kenwood deck with the setting to turn down bass in your car ( cant think of the term for it atm) to go with these subs. when we first hooked them up we had them on 35 which is max for the deck and it slammed. but since then ive turned them up to 35 on the song put on by jeezy and at the lowest note my subs shut off entirely (including music) for a sec or 2 and i turned it…
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Being an impulsive person- I done jumped off and ordered a dual alt bracket. Figuring 2 270 amp alts would be plenty for my setup. I was thinking, just run everything parallel, and rock on. But now I am reading that it isn't that simple. My Avalanche's alt is pcm controlled. Can I just tie in another pigtail for the 2nd alt? And have both alts charge both of my batteries? Current Parts- 1 270a Alt (would like to run 2) 2 kinetik 1800's 1 BC 5500 (will prolly be at .5 when said and done, hence wanting 500 amps on tap) 1 S800.4
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i havent hooked anything up yet but i have a fosgate t1000bd and 1 fi BL 15 with dual 1 ohm and p chamber and flat wind since im hooking this up to a 1 ohm load but i hear that the 1 ohm is only .70 ohms will my amp keep up with the sub and will it be safe to do without blowing stuff ?? how many watts will the amp put out under 1 ohm any advise would be great
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ok so i have an Alpine CDA-9886 as my headunit. and ofcourse i have the ipod hook up so i can use my ipod and iphone. as any one with an ipod or iphone would know that it has the EQ option to use bass boost so what my question is. am i alright to leave the bass boost on the ipod or iphone? or is that still a bad idea. i'm well aware that any type of bass boost or loudness settings on the headunit or amp is mostly all of the time a no no but i've never really been sure about this. it might be different for the ipod settings since it's i guess you can say, "controlled by the headunit" or something of that wording, so those settings might cancel out. but i'm not sure. it's …
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A buddy of mine has an Autotek Super Sport 1500.1. He is willing to sell it to me, but hasn't named a price yet. Are these amps good quality? Will it be too much for a single 15" FI BL? and are they overrated?
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So I bought my Head Unit, Pioneer DEH-P4200ub. Bought all the installation gear I needed. I connected the wires correctly and when I plug everything in the unit turns on but the speakers aren't working. With the factory radio they work fine. I called best buy and the dude said that because I have onstar I need a special harness that's 100 bucks, and if I don't use it that the door chime won't work and the check engine light will come on. So my question is do I really need this special harness to make the speakers work as well? Is there any way I can bypass this? Or am I just not hooking it up right?
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So , I just noticed that my power cap volt meter is droping to around 11.04 volts when I have my system pounding to its potential - can anyone tell me what to look for as the problem with this - 11.04 cant be right , its usually around 12.5-13.4 , and it drops that low for only a second . My setup is this : Red top under my hood -> isolator -> yellow top in the trunk -> 1.2 farad cap -> amps " Kicker 4ch 70x4rms " , and " Orion 2400D 1200x1@1ohm " . The cap has been grounded seperately from the yellow top - they each have there own , my system is running 4 ga. wire , power and ground .
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I'll start with the electrical rundown- EA 220 amp alt., big 3 in 0ga, xs d2400 under hood, deka 100ah g31 agm in trunk, 1 pos. run 0ga between batts, all cable is ofc. Now for the questions, first the alt- i was told that the bolts holding the alt in place are all the ground you need but i feel like i should have a 0ga ground also. good idea? unnecessary? Now for some fusing-how should my pos. between batts be fused? i have an aq3500d.1 about to go in, do i need to fuse for its 400 amp rating?,fuse for the max current capacity of the cable at 15-20ft?, fuse for the max amt of amps that my alt and front batt can deliver? Are there any performance differences in anl vs. t…
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