Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

School me a bit here, if your running a higher input voltage say going from 12/14 to 16, is it easier on the amp to run a lower ohm load? or does it depend on the amp generally. kinda just trying learn a little more about how amps work. about to buy a new alt and batts here soon, thinking about doing a separate 16v system for my bass amp. (two alts, stock, and a 16/18v) and was wondering if i would be able to run the ohm load down a little more? im a noob obviously so flame me if you must, just trying to get some info. thanks for any input.

is one powermaster 3100 in the front cell enough for one saz 3000d? or will i need one powermaster in the front cell, and one in the back of the vehicle. i should be pulling around 2000 watt rms

Is it possible to hook up an alpine h701 to an eclipse 8053 say, through the aux input? Or anyway for that matter. I love my 8053 and really don't want to part with it if it's possible. At the same time though, I want an EQ at my finger tips via the h701 and c701. If I could hook that combo up to my 8053 and it work it'd be all good. thoughts?

Hey all.I just got this battery today and I opened the box and found this.Its cracked right by the negitive terminal!!! So my question is can I still use it?Its soposed to me a deka 9a31.Help me please!!!

I have a 1999 Buick Park Avenue and am getting ready to purchase the things that I am still missing in my setup. My main concern is my Audiobahn 2300hct powering my 2 12" JL W7's at 1ohm. I have a yellow top for the trunk and a capacitor as well, here is where I'm lost as I've never used an extra battery or a cap before. The AB has 4x40 fuses, and I also plan to buy a 4 channel amp that does 75x4 rms {not sure on model yet}. My first question is how many fuses should I run throughout setup? Currently I have a 200amp ANL fuse, should I run this 18" from the battery {front duralast, or trunk yellow top}, or should I run a 200amp ANL at each battery? I Also plan on purchasi…

I just picked up an amp off a buddy of mine, and 2 of the allen head screws to tighten down the speaker wires are stripped. Was just wondering if any of you knew where to pick those up at individually? I'd rather get phillips head screws to replace them so I don't have to hunt down an allen set everytime I need to adjust something. Thanks

Over the last month I've been prepping my car to power the Ethos I have on order. So far I've replaced the front battery with an Optima Yellow Top Group 34/78, done the Big 3 in 1/0 ofc, installed a 220 amp HO alt and made a positive and negative run of 1/0 to the rear (positive fused within 18 inches of post with 250 amp anl fuses). For now the rear battery is not installed. I have the negative taped off and the positive run stops at the rear fuse holder. Over the weekend I decided to hook up the amp that I plan on using for the front stage to power my entire system I'm currently running. It's a Hifonics (I know some of you are cringing right now) X14 Brutus X1200.4. Pow…

im deciding between these two decks for awhile now and i wanted to know who has which and what they like about it. I can get the x889 for $218 or i could pay an extra $100 and get the pio 860mp.Now ive heard that the pio is alot easier to use and might have a better eq and other stuff but is it better then the x889 and worth the extra $100???

I'll start with the electrical rundown- EA 220 amp alt., big 3 in 0ga, xs d2400 under hood, deka 100ah g31 agm in trunk, 1 pos. run 0ga between batts, all cable is ofc. Now for the questions, first the alt- i was told that the bolts holding the alt in place are all the ground you need but i feel like i should have a 0ga ground also. good idea? unnecessary? Now for some fusing-how should my pos. between batts be fused? i have an aq3500d.1 about to go in, do i need to fuse for its 400 amp rating?,fuse for the max current capacity of the cable at 15-20ft?, fuse for the max amt of amps that my alt and front batt can deliver? Are there any performance differences in anl vs. t…

Hey fellas I've been researching this and would love some input. It's a 2002 Mercedes C230K 2.3L with one stock H-8 type batt under the hood and soon to be an XS Power XP3000 in the back. Wasn't able to find anything XS made for under the hood but if I could find one or another of similar quality, I'd go for it. Otherwise it's a stock batt but it is brand new. I'd like to use the Synergy Audio 35.1D as well as 1-2 more amps for the front stage. Call it 4k watts total guesstimate. Now looking at conversion tables, 4k watts is a 278 amp draw in a 14.4 voltage system. No, I don't believe I would be pulling that much power continually but more of a ceiling. I'm no…

so does anyone know of any companys making any all tube car audio amplifiers anymore, if so, who are they, and if you can supply any details about them, that would be great

NooB's, DO NOT COMPREHEND THIS POST. Under 1 ohm coverage is void from Z series Sundown amps so no warranty is implied in this post! Ok, my question I understand that the warranty is void by doing this but throwing that out the window, i know it's still possible so what i want to know is, when is the amp not safe? Let's say i got 2 SAZ-1500ds strapped and ran a load at 0.93 ohms. Warranted coverage is no lower than 2 ohms strapped. I've talked to a manufacturer before and he said about all his amp returns are due to people not knowing what they are doing when they run too low of a load. What i want to know is, what makes it "ok" to run below that load? I keep seeing …

I was looking at getting the Kicker KX3 Crossover to let me run active. I'll have a pair of Ascendant Audio Carbon Fiber Mids and a set of Morel tweeters. A 4 Channel will be powering the speakers. If I wire the tweets on the front channels and mids on the rear channels, should I be all set? I'll obviously bandpass the mids, and just use the HPF on the tweets. Ive read the manual, but the controls are odd. I looked into the AudioControl 4XS, but this is cheaper new. Thanks for the help

So I bought my Head Unit, Pioneer DEH-P4200ub. Bought all the installation gear I needed. I connected the wires correctly and when I plug everything in the unit turns on but the speakers aren't working. With the factory radio they work fine. I called best buy and the dude said that because I have onstar I need a special harness that's 100 bucks, and if I don't use it that the door chime won't work and the check engine light will come on. So my question is do I really need this special harness to make the speakers work as well? Is there any way I can bypass this? Or am I just not hooking it up right?

Does this make sense? Am I looking at this right? What I would like to do it setup my starter battery to an aux battery... I can connect the 2 negative terminals from both batteries okay, is it safe? Also, would I then still have to ground the aux battery to chassis? is it just good to have an extra ground off the aux battery? Could the amps be connected to the negative terminals of the aux battery if I have both terminals from the 2 batteries connected? Help me make sense of this or tell me how to do this better... Didn't think this was advanced so I made a generic post... thanks guys or does this work better?

ok so i have an Alpine CDA-9886 as my headunit. and ofcourse i have the ipod hook up so i can use my ipod and iphone. as any one with an ipod or iphone would know that it has the EQ option to use bass boost so what my question is. am i alright to leave the bass boost on the ipod or iphone? or is that still a bad idea. i'm well aware that any type of bass boost or loudness settings on the headunit or amp is mostly all of the time a no no but i've never really been sure about this. it might be different for the ipod settings since it's i guess you can say, "controlled by the headunit" or something of that wording, so those settings might cancel out. but i'm not sure. it's …

Any information on this amp would be helpful. Read a lot of good things on the web but sometimes it's hard to find the bad. You guys have any input about them.

I have a Denon DCT-A100 HU and I have been looking for some good external signal processors since the Denon has absolutely nothing as far as processing goes. I'm basically looking for at least a 30 band EQ that has all your basic features, time alignment, etc. What are my options? My setup is as follows: 2 Fi Q 12's (possibly upgrading to 18's in the future) running in an IB Sundown SAZ-1500 on the subs And what's coming soon: Hybrid Technologies Legatia 3-way set (8" woofer, 4" midrange, 1" tweeter) Sundown SAX-100.4 on the mids and woofers Sundown SAX-100.2 on the tweets

Does anyone know what the accurate specs are for the sundown audio SAZ 1500d v.3 is? I lost the paper work for this and i've found 2 sites that claim to have the specs but they are different from one another. I'm just trying to figure out the accurate inline fuse to use and the accurate watts.

Like the title says, im looking at a AQ3500. im not sure if its the old one or the new one so i have a few questions i would like to ask..... 1. how can u tell the difference between the new and old one? 2. how much do they go for in good condition and 3. is there naything specific i need to be looking for when im looking at the amp??? I looked on **** and seen them going for 550-600 shipped and i have the chance to get one for...... well id rather not say until its a done deal. let just say its a GOOD deal haha. LMK fellas. thanks

I am looking to buy a double din video headunit so that I can have a backup camera. The alpine is my favorite so far but the cheapest I can find it for is $600 which is pushing my budget but I can sell my alpine 9886 and garmin for around $300-350 all together. Just pick which one you would get and why or which one you would stay away from if you have heard something... reason for getting it is i need a HU that supports rear view cameras because my tint I will be getting will make backing up at night hell. Must have functions are rearview camera and ipod full control (hence why i favor the alpine) all other things are extras but not mandatory. Thanks, Patrone

Should I still bother with a frame ground if all my amps have direct positive and negative from the battery? My sub amp current has direct runs to the battery of 1/0, which are both less than ten feet.

i have been looking around and seeing alot of people using external equalizers. my setup right now is 3 pairs of coaxial speakers and 2 re audio 10 inch subwoofers. i have a kenwood deck with the basic bass,mid and treble settings on it. my question is ,is it worth buying an external eq and will i see a big difference with it. i listen to a lot of rap so its bass heavy. and also if i should get an eq any suggestions on what brands ? i have a budget of about 100 to 150$ on one . thanks

Well, my Avionixx 4ch died on me, so while I'm having it refurbed, I think I'm going to go ahead and upgrade. Right now I'm looking at an Eclipse E4000, it's rated at 100w x4 @ 4 ohm but the guy at a local shop says he thinks it does more like 85w...I believe him too. Anyway, does anyone have any opinions on their amps? I want this to last me a LONG time, not just a year like the Avionixx... http://www.smartcart.com/alneds/cgi/displa...item_num=EA4000 The shop is charging 320~325 out the door or I could get it 225 shipped off egay. Anyhow, opinions please! I want to purchase soon (like today)... I WAS gonna go with a PG Xenon 100x4 but it's too big.

Alrighty soo I'm looking to finaly get my own amp for my beastly little sub, the oem tc10 from tc sounds. Its a dual 4ohm sub. RMS power is 800 watts but is said to be able to take alot more power than that with a smile. Right now shes being powered by a RF amp that I'm borrowing from my buddy. I guess its rated at like 750watts. It works, but with the power turned all the way up, my sub is beggin for more. I'm not looking to break my bank, but I'm definately not looking for something walmart would cary either. I dont know much about what are good amps now adays, but a couple I've been looking at are the PG RSD1200.1 and the alpine mrd-m1005. What are some other opt…