Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Well, I'm upgrading, and had plans to keep existing power wire, but think i might stress the capacity of the wire. What I have: 20' of Knu KLMX 1/0AWG to second battery (trunk) [Fused @ 250A] 5' of Knu KLMX 1/0AWG from second battery to amps (distro. block in between) What I'm putting in: Soundstream RUB1.2500D [250A] Soundstream RUB2.600 [60A] Soundstream RUB2.250 [30A] Now, I've read that KLMX is capable of 250A loads, and Kolossus 300A+. Would the KLMX I have be enough to run the amps, if I upgrade the inline to 300A, and run 250,60,30 ANL in the distribution block. [However, 250+60+30≠300] Has anyone ran a 300A load off KLMX, or should I just spend the $100 and get t…

Which is a better amp? Apsm 2500 Apcl- 18001d Both have good power ratings for my sub but what's the difference? Which is more efficient? Just trying to decide which to buy.

So the other day I was messin' a but with my audio equipment... I noticed a very distinct buzzing coming from my front stage amp... realizing this could be a number of issues, I've ruled out the wiring already... I am going to take this time to upgrade my amp from the Kenwood 4ch to a Soundstream 2ch... Was looking into the Sundown 125.2 but for the money the Soundstream has more headroom.... This is the amp... TRA800.2 : Specs are as follows: * OUTPUT (WATTS):RMS @ 4 Ohms: 200x2 * RMS @ 2 Ohms: 400x2 * RMS Bridged @ 4 Ohms: 800 X 1 * T.H.D.: < 0.02% * Frequency Response (Hz): 10 - 50k * SIGNAL TO NOISE RATIO: > 115dB * DAMPING FACTOR:…

I have a Pioneer Premier DEH-P800PRS High Fidelity head unit. I was thinking about getting a processor. Since I have never owned any type of sound processor. my question is. Am I going to put this thing in line with my amps and make 19000db on the mic or will that 300$ investment barely be noticed?? My deck already has t/a, 16 band eq, 3 way active set up, I can adjust each individual speaker for gain and eq, so what will a processor do for me. is it really worth the money?

lol :shock: sorry would have got more pics but that damn thing is heavy lol....... let me know what ya guys think

Has any one here ever used one?? I was taking a look at it today. One thing i would like about it is i could put it in my trunk and only have the Ai-net cable running to the rear from my deck, and shorten up the rca's going to my amps, also it pushes the pre outs to 4v. It has an adjustable 5-band parametric or 7-band graphic equalizer. What is the difference between the two types of equalization? What i would really like to know is does the Multeq feature work well. Any info will be help full below is a link. Thank you. PXA-H100 IMPRINT

Ok, so after doing the voltage setting of the gain, I figured I need around 50 volts for the saz2500d running at 1 ohm. Currently at 40 till I get the inside done with bracing. Problem is, when I turn volume up to 29-30, after 10-15 seconds the circuit breaker up front for the positive run of 0 gauge trips. Then the amp goes into protect mode. Am I drawing that much current that I need to run another run of 0 gauge? Have a 31m diehard platinum in the rear, all 0 gauge, and a 270 mechman. Big 3 in 0 gauge and all frame grounds. Amp ground is only 16" or so to frame.

so does anyone know of any companys making any all tube car audio amplifiers anymore, if so, who are they, and if you can supply any details about them, that would be great

Why is it that my headunit nearly has to be turned up all the way for my subs to get extremely loud I have an aq 2200 with 1/0 ran and a second battery and the big three done my headunit is kenwood not sure on model number my subs are 2 audiopipes 15" an are rated 1000rms my headunit goes up to vol 35 and 1-28 are barely pushing then when I hit about 33 it's loud then when I hit 34 there is a huge difference in bass any help thanks

I have a Kenwood x793 HU. I love the features on it. I use a USB 16gig thumb drive 95% of the time. I do compete. I am currently at around 146-147 db. The problem is the faceplate shuts off at high volume. This poses a problem as you can't turn the volume down or anything when it goes off. If I press in the faceplate it will not shut off. My question is has anyone ever had this issue and if so how did you fix it? I thought about soldering jumper wires from the faceplate to the HU. I never take the faceplate off. I'm not sure this would work or not. Thanks

Ive Blown 2 Plate Amps in Less Than 2 Weeks! How Could This Be? They Were Working Fine But noticed they were getting extremely hot to the touch (couldn't keep hand on for 3 sec.) Before they went i notcied my btl was getting distorted 10 sec later the amp cutt of and no LED indicator was on. This Means The Amp Went Right? What Could Have Caused This Im Wondering. Here Is The Pic Of The AMp Im Using

I was wondering what type of amp i should get to power 2 12 RL-Ps so that they can still bump real loud but have good sound quality. I am looking for an amp that is not to expensive. Hopefully under 250 if possible. I have been recommended the Hifonics Hifonics BX1205D/BX1605D, are there any comments on those amps? Will they work well? Any other amps that may be able to do the job? Thanks. Mike

Will i need an aftermarket alternator if im running a hifonics bxi2608d? at around 2200~2400 watts in a 2000 Hyundai sonata with 1/0 power wires and Big 3 upgraded.....

Couple weekends ago I was at a car show and a hertz sales rep was talking massive trash about sundown amps (and other non-mainstream companies). He stated that it is impossible for sundown amps and other amps of similar build to do rated power on strictly pcb board. he said hertz amps had a solid copper plate underneath the circuitry to deal with producing high current (1000watts+ or whatever). So my question is, do sundown amps (and others) have any plating underneath the boards? If not, then how do they handle all the current without frying? I'm not in any way, shape or form questioning sundown quality (as I have a saz-1500d myself , but just interested in how all this …

Im finnally done with the Big 3, all the wires connected, test drove the car, and everything.... thanks for the help through it all!!!!!! But now what? Im doing a 15" FI Fully loaded BTL and a Hifonics Bxi2608D amp I wont have it hooked up untill the 25th, whats that next thing i should do? Its a 2000 Hyundai Sonata as far as i know, my options are Better main batt, add a second batt, or new alternator. Id rather not do any, but if i have to id rather only do 1. dont have much money to spend... :-( but untill then ill turn the gain down.. keep the volume down. Thanks

Ok, so I bought a HO alt for my taurus 2 weeks ago from a place called Quality Power Auto. The alt I bought was a 200 amp max and 125 amp at idle I paid just shy of 300 shipped to my house. I put the alt in the car today and well as the title would suggest I am VERY disappointed in the performance of this thing. First this thing has the voltage caped at 14.1 volt which is bull shit bc the stocker would do 14.4 solid in 90 degree heat in a traffic jam. At idle this alt would drop into the low 12's (like 12.1 to 12.0V) with nothing on but the head lights. It would not make all wopping 14.1 volts untill almost 3K rpm!!!!!! I tested this POS on only one of my nine.1s that h…

Here is my set up HU - 880PRS Sub - IDQ12 (DVC) Front - HAT "L" 2 way (coming soon) I was thinking of running the 125.2 bridged 4-ohm to the IDQ (350w) 100.4 Channel 1 and 2 to run the tweeters in normal 4-ohm (90w) Channel 3 and 4 bridged 4-ohm into the 6.5" mids (320w) Can I run the 100.4 in regular and bridged mode at the same time? Does this set-up make sence?

After reading through a bunch of threads at a truck forum I'm on, someone asked about running a 16v system separately to power their system. I know some of the trailer-queen competitors use unregulated amps and they can crank their voltages up to 16+, but is it possible to do it in a daily-driver? Does anyone make a high-output alternator that would sufficiently charge a 16V battery (like the Kinetic KHC16V), and still be OK for daily use? Would the Kinetic last if being used daily? OR, would it be more beneficial to use a bunch of 12V batteries, dual or triple alts, and stay with regulated amps?

hey everyone, i am looking for a alternator for my 02' f150 5.4 v8. atleast 220amp output. i was at my local shop and he told me to check out power bastards alternators. i did and they have nothing but good reviews on them and there very good on price. my question is if anyone here has every used one before.. i really only have $325 to spend (and thats if and only if my alt. from my ranger ever sells..) i will have my AQ3500.1 running at 2 ohms (2600 watts) to a zcon 15 so i really only need around 2200 watts. i will have all 0 gauge wiring and as of now, no extra batteries. if anyone knows of a better deal on a alternator for the same amout of output or better. please lm…

I have a DD 9512 (dual 2 ohm) and two Autotek MM1400.1D's. I wanted to run each amp on each coil at first, but I was told this is actually pretty risky and it is a lot safer to strap the amps together.. The only dilemma is that once strapped.. the amps will only be stable at 2 ohms.. but dual 2 ohm drivers can only be wired to 1 ohm or 4 ohm.. if i can keep the voltage between 13.5 and 14 volts at the amps, will it be safe to put a 1 ohm load on the set of strapped amps?

all right, the stereo i want has been out of stock for like 3 months now, and im starting to wonder if it will ever be back in stock. my questions is, i want a flip up screen stereo, what are good brands? and i want cheap ones. if i cant find a cheap one ill just wait. i found some jenson but i dont know if they are a good brand, also fahrenheit is cheap but ive never heard of them. unfortunately alpine doesnt have any, oh i need 3 preouts, front rear and sub.

what is going on here? i had a ZX1500.1 for 5 and a half years with zero issues on stock electric between 3 different vehicles. My ZX2500.1 died earlier this year after only about 4 months of use, i sent it off to kicker for repair and got it back, not long after i lost my sub and had to buy a new one. this amp as is has been used less than a month and a half. i was bumping at close to max volume day before yesterday, i arrive at my destination with time to spare so i sit in the truck with the engine off for about 45 min doing paper work with the stereo on at 1/4 volume. i had to run into the store so i shut off the truck accessories and go in, i come back out and turn …

I can pick alternators for $20 at my local yard, for an extra hundred odd amps would getting a bracket fabbed be worth it? Not planning to exceed 3k rms for a year or so. Just a hifonics brx 2k and a taramps 250x4. Suppose I'm askin, how much would a bracket and a longer belt run me?

Okay guys, I'm in a bit of a pickle here. I will be buying an 18" BTL any day now, I'm going to run it with a Sundown SAZ3000.1, at 2 ohms for daily driving and 1 ohm for comps and such, I will back it up with a Kinetik HC1400, and 2 HC1800's, I will also do my Big 3 in 1/0 gauge, my problem is my alternator, it is a stock 90A, I took it in to a shop today to see if they could rewind it and get more juice out of it and they said they couldn't do anything for it, but I talked to Nathan Pedicord from Excessive Amperage about a 225A that would fit. Why am I unable to get it rewound or built up? Do I even need it? Or will the Kinetiks be fine. Any input would be great, thank…

Is there a way to wake up both amps and have them power on instead of having to wire both with the (don't remember name) "wake up wire" ? I looked on the back of my cd player and it doesn't look like there's a spot to put it. But there is a slot for "sub out:" on it hat looks like its just a rca cable connection....hrmmm