Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

lol :shock: sorry would have got more pics but that damn thing is heavy lol....... let me know what ya guys think

Ok so heres the deal, futureshop has a 1000W RMS MTX amplifier on for 200 bucks, i plan on buying 2 of them if they are any good. They are fused at 120 amps and look clean. Any thoughts on mtx?

So I go to put my 3400 in after charging. It took it off the charger put it in the car check it with a DMM and reading 13.7v or so. So I hook everything up and start the truck. Voltage reads 15.1 then down to 14.8 on my stinger meter. I go to check my 3400 with a DMM and it reads 13.78v WTF. So I check my amp wires they read 14.8 WTF. So I check the 3400 again it still reads 13.78-13.79. Then I check my stock it's reading 14.8. My wires are ran like this Alt POS to POS on 3400 Alt POS to POS on stock POS from 3400 to POS on amp. My questions are. Is my amp wires reading 14.8 but my 3400 is reading 13.78? Is it because my 3400 is fully charged so it's not accepting the c…

Alright guys, I was helping my friend install a system in his HHR that he just got, and he wanted to keep the stock headunit. I don't know if the problem is because of the factory headunit not excepting the line out converter or what. The problem is that once we installed the line out converter to the proper wires the front 6 1/2's stopped working. We tapped the rear speakers for the line out converter. I did not solder the wires I don't think that is the problem though. The thing that is weird to me is that the tweeters still worked, the rear speakers still worked, and the sub and amp worked. So do you guys know anything that we can do to fix this problem. I have looked …

I wish I had heard about eclipse before.. got my 8053 deck installed today... not running it balanced yet.. waiting for the summer to do that.. This deck is sweet.. Never heard a deck so clear before.... my subs clip at high volume now but that another storey.... I'll just turn the gain down I've only had about 1 hour in the car listening to it but I'm very impressed and very happy with it..

I need a new 2 channel to drive some 6.5"s in the doors. I need something on the small side and not looking to spend a lot. Mind you I don't want some Walmart brand $30 specials either. Anyway, back in the day I had a Soundstream Lil' Wonder amp. Loved that thing to death. I know several of the bigger companies back when I got into car audio (late 80's ish) have really gone downhill in terms of build and quality. I came across a Rubicon 2.250 that will fit the space requirements and the power I need. Not familar with anything they have made in the past few years. Are they still pretty decent? Not looking to compete or anything like that. Just looking for something …

I inserted my DD-1 disc into the KDC-X494 in my boat to set levels, and the CD won't eject. I press the eject button but it acts like I'm not pressing anything. Doesn't display eject or make any attempt to when I press it. It just ignores my pushing of the button. I tried pressing the reset button under the face, but no help. Any ideas? Is is a common Kenwood issue? How do I get my disc back!?

So as of yesterday I now have a small amount of noise creeping in . Nothings changed . I have two batteries under the hood , both are grounded to the frame with 0 gauge. The alt body is grounded to one of the batteries. All the amps are grounded to a distribution block which is grounded to the frame ,and body . I'm going to check all the connections , but am I doing something wrong. I never had any noise before yesterday.

Hey guys just recieved my Alternator today from Singer Should hope to install it over the weekend let me know what you think? Its going in a 2004 f250

So I just purchased this subwoofer Sundown SA12 v2. D4 RMS power 1000watts I have a sundown saz 1500d v.3 but I feel like it's a bit much Specs for amp 2ohm =3000watts x 1CH 1ohm= 1500watts x 1CH 4ohm= 400watts x 1CH What amp would you recommend for this single sub?

I've been searching and not finding exactly what I wanted.... Im trying to figure out how to find a good ground in my car for my rear batts and I know people use DMM's to test spots but I wasn't sure how? like which setting on the dmm and what do you touch the probes to?.. I dont understand rofl. I tried a bunch of different things but wasn't really sure what I was doing.

So after asking many questions and buying everything that I need according to people on this forum I have an issue. I have 1 15"bl in my truck with a fosgate 1000bd. Everyone on here has told me I need another cell 0 guage wire, and to do the big 3. Every stereo shop that I went to here says that 0 guage is over doing it. They also say I will be fine with 1 yellowtop and that running 0 guage from the battery is pointless cause the current wire on it is way better than 0 guage is. They say 4 guage is plenty and all I need to do is run the 0 guage from the battery to the amp. Nothing else. They actually said that my 4 guage is fine. So what do I do??? Is it really …

I am looking for different options so that I can price match and do some reviews. So let me know what you guys can think of. Also if you know the site where I can read up on the info on em would be great THANKS GUYS!

im using a crappy boss flip out head unit. and my system getting to loud to where it is shutting my head unit off until i hit the power button on. any suggestions on what is the best head unit to get?

I keep hearing over and over to spend the money on speakers and processing. I am debating on buying a zapco ref. 360.4 and a 1100.1. This will set me back like 1400 bucks for new stuff from an authorized dealer. I am highly considering scratching the zapco amps and going with Crossfire. Either a vr404 or 2 - vr402's for the active front stage and a vr1000d for subs. I know Crossfire has a stellar reputation for SPL amps and that. Anyone have some good SQ competition with any of their class AB amps? The processing will not be an issue as I will be using an Audiocontrol MVC, 6XS, and 2 - EQT's. Thanks for any and all opinions or comments.

I was just given an orion d2400 its powers on but goes into protect then esp then protect again. I opened it up and i dont see anything wrong no fried mosfets in fact i dont see anything fried. Still smells new im gonna have a diagnostic done on it but what do you all think is wrong

Just wondering how many of you guys actually use these things..

I am going to be buying a 2015 or 2016 Acura TLX v6. I believe the system comes with 10 speakers. I am trying to plan ahead and see how I would start with putting in aftermarket speakers and 1 subwoofer. I think I need 8 channels from amplifier to do the speakers without a subwoofer. So if this is correct, I can just use 2 identical amplifiers that have 4 channels each? Also if so, would it be smart to just use 1 amp for the rear channels in the car, and 1 amp for the front channels in the car? although each speaker will be different sizes and require different amounts of power... So this is super confusing. Also, the factory stereo is not recommended to be remo…

hi! i need you good opinions on this amps: KICKER 750.1- - $410.66 # Class D # Amplifier Type 1 Channel # Mono subwoofer amplifier # 375 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms # 750 watts x 1 at 2 ohms ALPINE-MRP-M1000 - $451.72 # Mono (single channel) V-Power BASS amplifier # Class D # RMS Power (at 14.4V THD+N, 20Hz-20kHz) # Per channel into 4 Ohms: (@ 14.4V +-1%THD+N, 20Hz - 200Hz) 600W x 1 # Per channel into 2 Ohms: (@ 14.4V +-1%THD+N, 20Hz - 200Hz) 1000W x 1 i'm from europe...the price are the cheapest i can find.. in europe.. thanks

anyone think this would work in a lincoln, well duh it would but there is a wire that goes from the alt to the batt, right ok do i just splice the wires and wire them together and connect it if i ws going to do this??? i think this is the only way i'm going to get 250amps atleast so my car wont kill over... if i ever decide to do it i'll post some pics.... at the moment i need to find a engine, because my brother F***** up the one already in their.. :angry:

I picked up an Orion 2250 SX on OfferUp for $75 (happy birthday to me!). It was advertised as not-working, but it looks good visually and I thought I MIGHT want it repaired. The problem is I can't find anyone who repairs the older stuff. Amp Medics is 40 minutes from my house, but Steve stopped fixing the old ones (parts are impossible to get). DB-R stopped fixed legacy amps back in 2010. So, anyone know anyone who is willing and able to fix my Beast? (I know technically only the Orion XTR 2250 was called the Beast, but I choose to ignore that fact).

OK long story short. I bought a crescendo c1100.4 everything runs fine when the car is off, I can turn it up loud as ever it sounds clean. When I start the car after a while the amp goes into protect. I sent it back to crescendo they tell me nothing is wrong. When I got the amp back I did step by step problem testing, I changed the RCA's hooked them up one by one, changed speaker wires, changed to soldered grounds and power tips, and I even changed my head unit. The same problem happens, I did a test to see how long it would play when the car is off and it STAYS on and plays loud and nice for a loooooong time. When I turn the car on same volume etc it goes into protect af…

So did it? tell what you have for electrical as well I have a DB electrical 250a alt, big three XS power d3100, SAZ-3500d Basically, my question is according to your experiences, will multiple runs help me?

Hey guys, I'm new here but been messing around with audio in my cars on an amateur level for quite a while. I recently decided to do an amp/sub install on my newly acquired 2006 Infiniti M45. It has a factory 14 speaker BOSE system. As far as the audio upgrades I've added is as follows. -Sundown Audio SCV3000d amp -1 Sundown Audio X12 @ 1ohm in ported box to spec -0 gauge wiring ran to trunk to additional audio battery and capacitor -6 gauge wiring from amp to sub -LOC taped into the stock Bose sub inputs Problem is that the sub doesn't sound nearly as loud as it should although the sound it does produce is very clear. I went from 2 SA…

i was seeing what you guys recommend for a small amp (small size) i was looking at an amp maybe under the dash something that doesnt take alot current draw...i was looking for 100 watts rms and a price limit of about 300 dollars...i have 4-6 1/2 alpine type s 4 ohm speakers....im not looking to win a award with them just something to get a little more output out of them