Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

yes another one of those threads... I know which batteries are better then others. But when you look at what you get for a certain amount of money, then it gets hard to choose. This is for a comp/daily setup, not only burps. I have: Hifonics Colossus II (3000W rms), SS Ref4.920 (600W rms), Two Fi Q 18" and a HO alternator from Iraggi rated at 250A. These batteries will be in the back. 2 x Kinetik KR3112, same as HC2400 just the racing line (the red batteries). 2 x XS power D3400 2 x Odyssey PC1700 2 x Xstatic Batcap 2000 The battery upfront will also be replaced by a new battery from the same producer as the batteries I choose to have in the back. The reason for my …

Well I have ran into something here and I think I may have gotten lucky on my part.... My friend who is going to help me install my car system here whenever I get everything together. He told me that he has a 5 farad cap and that I could have it from him for a few cases of...beverages. Now I am curious about this seeing as I was told to stay away from caps and just get a battery bank. What questions should I ask him when deciding if I want this or not? He says its pretty new and was only installed into his car system once. Then he took it out due to too many tickets over a week (must have been dumb about it) and never put it back in. Now for the serious question here, sho…

I have a really bad alternator whine. I have a JVC HU with only ONE RCA output. I'm running 2 separate amplifiers: 1 for Sub, 1 for Mids/Highs. Since my unit only has 1 pre-out, I bought some RCA splitters and just ran 2 sets of RCA's from the HU to the rear, sharing the signal between the 2 amps. I then found that there was quite a bit of whine.. However, when I would unplug the RCA's from the bass amp, the whine would disappear. "Ok, bad cable." So I switched the RCA's to see if that was the case, to find that there was still a whine whenever the bass amp RCA's were in. Which makes no sense because the signal plays fine from the mid/high amp without the bass amp RCA's i…

I did some research and I realize they are mostly a build house for other car audio companies and are based out of Korea. I just can't really find any info on the amplifiers they put out under their own name. I was looking at the "Zenon World Competition Series 4 Channel Amplifier", but can't find squat for info or reviews. Just curious if anyone has any experience with this amplifier? Would you say it would be a good SQ amplifier to run a component set with? Thanks for any help.

I am looking for different options so that I can price match and do some reviews. So let me know what you guys can think of. Also if you know the site where I can read up on the info on em would be great THANKS GUYS!

I am trying to decide what amps to use ot run my new system that i am building I have been looking at the mmats 3500.1 and the us amps 3500de I am going to run 4 ts-w 3002d2 subs but I have never used either one of these products I have read great reviews on these amps but here in louisiana where i am from there arent anyone around here that runs these amps or sells them so iam going to have to buy direct from these companies so any incite would be great and if anyone else has any other good amp suggestions that are in the 3 to 4,000 watt range please let me know. Thanks

Has anyone had any experience with Shruiken AGM batteries? Can they be used as main battery replacement? Or are they just for auxiliary use only for audio?

it will be my first time buying a high output alternator what else would i need other than a deepcycle battery and voltmeter thank you

According to PowerBass 3XL product info, a Class D amplifier heats a subwoofer voice coil 2 to 3 times hotter and faster than a class a/b amplifier. Is there any truth to this? I'm not an electrical engineer, nor a amp design expert, but I've never heard this before. http://www.powerbassusa.com/3xl-series

I kow that I've asked some of these questions before, but a few ideas came to my head this morning since I'm not satisfied with the results. Equipment: 10" AA Arsenal Sealed enclosure Factory Headunit 1 Stinger LOC 1 ZED Minilith Here's the deal. Everything is connected well. I have a good ground, wires, and RCA's. The sub is getting a bit of a warble sound to it a low volumes (I'm sure it is still there when the volume is up,but the music is covering it up). In order for me to get any output in this sucker, the gain has to be almost all the way up and I don't like that. Something is wrong. Here is what I've been thinking... I really think that a four channel LOC would be…

http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/pts/4286673028.html I'm looking at amps that are being sold locally, and was wondering if this is a true 2k rms. If so, it's a steal for 160

I am going to be buying a 2015 or 2016 Acura TLX v6. I believe the system comes with 10 speakers. I am trying to plan ahead and see how I would start with putting in aftermarket speakers and 1 subwoofer. I think I need 8 channels from amplifier to do the speakers without a subwoofer. So if this is correct, I can just use 2 identical amplifiers that have 4 channels each? Also if so, would it be smart to just use 1 amp for the rear channels in the car, and 1 amp for the front channels in the car? although each speaker will be different sizes and require different amounts of power... So this is super confusing. Also, the factory stereo is not recommended to be remo…

hi guys, never had any experience with audioque Im thinking of getting a aq2200d and a 15 hdc3 for now any suggestions,experience,pros cons would be greatly appreciated!

Anybody have the ohm ratings for this amp 1, 2, 4-ohm? Thanks

Ok so heres the deal, futureshop has a 1000W RMS MTX amplifier on for 200 bucks, i plan on buying 2 of them if they are any good. They are fused at 120 amps and look clean. Any thoughts on mtx?

I need some electrical upgrades for my 98 s10. But I dont want to get carried away. So far all i have is some cheap soundquest 4ga wire ran from front battery to amp. Amp is just a little audiopipe 1500d, but as it is right now my bass knob is a dimmer for any light in my vehicle lol. there is no way im dishing out the money for a HO alt on this thing. I have room in the back for 1 battery. Curious as to how small of a battery I can get away with. Going kinetik because its what I like. Honestly i would like to add a little HC800 or something and call it a day, but I dont know. My first step will be to upgrade my wires along with the big 3. question there is do you guys …

just wondering what rca cables people recommend when it comes to price and performance?

do you think the Crunch GPV2000.1 can do 2k watts rms 1ohm at 13.8v but it only has 4 25amp fuses.. for 2 fi bl 15s? or should i just run 2 amps? GPV2000.1 1 x 500 @ 4-Ohms, 1 x 1000 @ 2-Ohms, 1 x 2000 @ 1-Ohm Maxx

So I go to put my 3400 in after charging. It took it off the charger put it in the car check it with a DMM and reading 13.7v or so. So I hook everything up and start the truck. Voltage reads 15.1 then down to 14.8 on my stinger meter. I go to check my 3400 with a DMM and it reads 13.78v WTF. So I check my amp wires they read 14.8 WTF. So I check the 3400 again it still reads 13.78-13.79. Then I check my stock it's reading 14.8. My wires are ran like this Alt POS to POS on 3400 Alt POS to POS on stock POS from 3400 to POS on amp. My questions are. Is my amp wires reading 14.8 but my 3400 is reading 13.78? Is it because my 3400 is fully charged so it's not accepting the c…

I have the option of using either amps for my components (Rainbow) and rear fill (JBL mids): Alpine MRV-F302 V12, 4x50 @ 4 ohm @ 14.4 Planet Audio P450, 4 x 50 @ ohm Anyone have exp with these or similar amps from the Alpine and PA lines? Which one will get me better SQ? Advice appreciated. Thanks!

Hey guys, so i'm at a stump with my electrical in my car. I have two sundown SA-15's in my Honda CRV being powered by a hifonics HFI 1500d. I would love to upgrade my amplifier and get about 2500 watts to the subs but my voltage is too low for that type of power. I have been searching for a compatible high output alternator with the CRV for a while now, but have had no luck. Also the alternator is located under the engine so I would have to pay a shop to go in there and install it. All lots of money i don't have to spend. Are there any other ways i can give my electrical system a boost to maintain that 13.8+ to power a higher wattage amplifier? I have already done the big…

Well after much researching and debating, I ended up buying this headunit, and dont let the name brand fool you. From the information I gathered, this headunit is a beast and also a sleeper, has a crap load of features and rumored to have active capabilities. So I ordered it from Soniceletronix for $199 shipped, and it included the iPod adapter, installation accessories and free shipping. It has been out since the end of 06, and retail was $600!!!!! So on to the pics, plan on installing it this weekend, and I will do a full review and a video review And I had all Pioneers in the past, from the 580MP, to the 880PRS, and lastly the 780MP. So i know what to look for …

I have had a fi x12 with a powerbass asa 400.2 amp in a ported box in my truck for a while now and i had an old pyramid amp that i wired to put on my front doors. The only wires i added was the signals from the 2 channel to the front door speakers and an rca cable for that amp from the head unit. I used the power wire from the sub amp to also go to the 2 channel and i put a seperate ground for the 2 channel. Both of my rca cables run with my power and remote wires. I ran my speaker wires a different way because i thought that was why the noise was there. The grounds are good... But whys it making the hum noise when tye music is low or off... And a big thud when everything…

I recently came up on a SAE1200d for $125 and after using for a week or so it popped something and it wouldnt work. I took it to a local shop and they said it was the power supply cuz I wasnt giving it enough power so I did the big 3 and im running a 15 fi q at 2ohm. The other day I get it back and have it banging for about 3 days then after work on monday I turn it up and it turns off and it doesnt turn back on. When I get home I check all the fuses and they are good and I turn the car back on and something pops again and smoke comes out and its fried again. Now my question. What could be the culprit?

I Have a 2000 bmw 5 series. Here is the setup: 1 15 BTL n2 fully loaded powered by a hifonics 2000.1 All under hood elecrical will be done with 0 awg ROCKFORD FOSGATE WIRING. Stock alt. (I believe it is 160amp) Either the stock batt or kinnetik batt upgrade will be used Do you guys think that the cars electrical will be able to handle it? gain will not be set to max.. I jus wanna be able to make car alarms go off with the BTL hhahaha Thank you for your time