Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

my friend is ordering a Audiopipe Ap-15001d, so ill get to see it soon, but does any one have much experience with the AUDIOPIPE AP-D series, like the 15001, 18001, 30001 real power, clipping, protect, ohm load used, any real info of it in use i was thanking of getting the crescendos but im reconsidering what im going to use for my setup so any real info would be helpful

audiocontrol DQXS

dc power offers a 270xp ALT and mechman a 320a ALT for my car im trying to power 8k plus rms watts two fosgate t2500 and one fosgate t1000,4 and two xs power d3100 and yellow top under the hood which of those two is best for me ?

Have you guys ever used or heard anyone using this amp , I got a good deal on one on ebay . but I cant find many reviews, I heard lightning audio is owned by rockford fosgate. its rated at 600 x 1 @ 4Ω 1000 x 1 @ 2Ω 1500 x 1 @ 1Ω and the fuse are 2x70a here is some internal pics (not mine)

I was given an old MTX TP3002 from my girlfriends dad the other day because he didn't think it worked anymore. Well, I replaced all the fuses and terminals. I wired it up and it worked fine. Hooked it to an 8 ohm speaker to test, and it worked. I took it to my car and hooked it to 2 SA-8's bridged at 4 ohms. The subs started popping, then the amp shut off and smoke poured out. The gains and everything were all the way down. Anyone know what could have happened? It worked fine on my test bench in the garage, then fried in my car when subs were wired to it.

I have two giant bulldozer batteries in my barn, hold charge fine. All they say on them is Deka 8C12, 90 min, and extreme deep cycle. They are open cell with acid in them so that's why I'm worried. Would they work as secondary batteries in the back?

amp isn't as loud as when first got it. any ideas

Looking for a cheap amp for a friends car, he'll be buying my SA12s. Needs 1200 at two ohms. Are the Hifonics BRZ amps good? I found one for 200$ new.

I have had a fi x12 with a powerbass asa 400.2 amp in a ported box in my truck for a while now and i had an old pyramid amp that i wired to put on my front doors. The only wires i added was the signals from the 2 channel to the front door speakers and an rca cable for that amp from the head unit. I used the power wire from the sub amp to also go to the 2 channel and i put a seperate ground for the 2 channel. Both of my rca cables run with my power and remote wires. I ran my speaker wires a different way because i thought that was why the noise was there. The grounds are good... But whys it making the hum noise when tye music is low or off... And a big thud when everything…

well i was at a stop light with the system on about 1/4 the way up so not drawing much power. my volt meter was reading 13.8-14V constent. then when i took off from the stop light i cranked her back up to around 3/4 volume ( slowly increased volume) and i heard a loud squeel from under the hood and everything shut off ( HU,amp subs, ect. ) my volt meter was going nuttsssss. it went from 14V down to 12.1 in a milla second and eveything was powered off so nothing was drawing power besides the truck running. so now i have to find a replacement alt with hardly any cash... im F'd in the A big time now.

can any one tell me if i get a head unit that has video input feeds can i wire a "BACK-UP" camera to stay on and work as a "REAR VIEW" mirror on my head unit???

i just bought a new car...well new to me, a 2008 pontiac g6 and plan on starting my audio system real soon, the obvious first thing to upgrade is the radio. i went to crutchfield (i buy all my head units from them as they usually make it simple and include everything you need, usually for free) im a little confused on what i need to buy on this one though, this car has the oil life, fuel mileage and all that stuff built into the radio so i would need a special kit to retain all of that, which i definatly want. the link to that is http://www.crutchfield.com/p_120993303/Chevy-Pontiac-Adapter-Package.html now when i added my head unit to my cart, it suggested i add this al…

the amp will be running 2 sundown audio sa-8v2 when i get then on a stable 14.4 volt system big 3 done stock alt and stock battery for now till i get the xs power and all 0 gauge wire with and an eq and the other odds and ends

I jus bought 2 kicker comps 12s jus to have till i get my 21 in and when I put them in they sounded hollow and wouldn't play right. I had my friends jls in my car 2 days ago and they worked totally fine. I didn't change anything except put subs in. I called crescendo to see if my amp had blown and he said it must be a signal messed up somehow. The subs I know work becaise we hooked both sets in my friends car and they worked fine in his. What could be the problem?

I have 8guage kicker ofc wiring kit in my truck. Right now its powering one powerbass asa 400.2 subwoofer amp that puts 400 rms. I have an old amp that i want to put on my front door speakers that is 55x2 rms. Would my 8 guage wire be enough for that also? Or do i need to get another wiring kit to be safe? Thankyou. Oh and is there any advice for wiring my front doors? I want both amps in the back of thetruck. Do i run wires from where the factory wires are to the amp for high level input then another back to the doors? Or do i take the wire out of the door and then to the amp And to the doors? Thanks for any help.

I'll start with the electrical rundown- EA 220 amp alt., big 3 in 0ga, xs d2400 under hood, deka 100ah g31 agm in trunk, 1 pos. run 0ga between batts, all cable is ofc. Now for the questions, first the alt- i was told that the bolts holding the alt in place are all the ground you need but i feel like i should have a 0ga ground also. good idea? unnecessary? Now for some fusing-how should my pos. between batts be fused? i have an aq3500d.1 about to go in, do i need to fuse for its 400 amp rating?,fuse for the max current capacity of the cable at 15-20ft?, fuse for the max amt of amps that my alt and front batt can deliver? Are there any performance differences in anl vs. t…

I have a 220a MechMan alternator with two runs of zero going to the two XS power S3400s in the back. Nothing except the alternator is connected to the cars main battery but yet my cars battery is running at 16.5+v. The voltage jumps around like crazy to, no predicting it. Why is it doing that and what can I do to get it to sit at a stable 14.1-14.4v?

So, in an effort to get better sound I came across this: It's made by Arc Audio http://store.arcaudio.com/products/productdetail/IDX/part_number=IDX/1735.0.1.1.56010.56696.0.0.0?pp=8& Manual pg.9: http://www.arcaudio.com/pdfs/product-manuals/processors/IDX-XEQ.pdf

Just got one but how small are they really? It's 11-3/4 inches by 6-1/2 inches? Seems kinda small... Also, anyone have photos of their own collection?

ok i have a problem with my voltage. i can't seem to find the problem so i was wonding if anyone could help. I have a 250 amp alt with 2 runs of 0 gauge 3 batteries one is 100ah and the other is 139ah. Plus the blue top under the hood. The amps are a sundown 2500 on 4 12 skars and a sundown 1000 on 2 skar 8s and a old school Rockford 1500 on the highs. But at full tilt I drop to 11.8v and driving 12.2v idk what the problem could be. all grounds are to the frame and i did the big 3 all 0 gauge. all batteries tested fine. If u have any suggestions please let me know. Thanks!

okay for my wife exsisting system she has 2 kicker 15 inch subs with 1000rms each..... to stay within a 350 or below budget what amp will push clean basss,,, i am obviously staying away from/// boss,crunch, .. but i never had cadene nor planet audio,,, some good help please

i can get two jl audio 500.1 slashes one has high frequency noise and the other has a blown channel bt they both power up fine i can get them for $120 is it worth me getting them fixed? and do you know what could possibaly be wrong?

There is a JL Audio 500/5 for sale in my local pawn shop for $250. Aesthetically speaking, it's in damn good condition. Has been mounted, but that's really it for scratches and such. I'm not interested in it, nor am I selling it, but figured I'd see if anyone else was interested in having me pick it up for them and them shipping it to them. Doesn't seem like a great price for it, but certainly not a bad one!

Woot. Tight effin fit. I had t spend soem time on the grinder with the brackets so they wouldnt touch my external rectifers and it was supposed to be a drop in but I had to reclock it. new oem deka up fromt

I traded a friend for this beefy mechman 270 amp alternator for my truck. It just looks so much better... What do yall think?