Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
Discuss Head Units, Amplification, Processors, And All Electrical System Inquiries Here.
5,712 topics in this forum
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Why is it that my headunit nearly has to be turned up all the way for my subs to get extremely loud I have an aq 2200 with 1/0 ran and a second battery and the big three done my headunit is kenwood not sure on model number my subs are 2 audiopipes 15" an are rated 1000rms my headunit goes up to vol 35 and 1-28 are barely pushing then when I hit about 33 it's loud then when I hit 34 there is a huge difference in bass any help thanks
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I have one positive run to the back. Will that support a 3500d? I have a 3400 with stock under the hood. I am thinking another 3100 in the back. All grounds are to frame to avoid chopping the car up. Thanks for the help its been awhile since I been here.lol
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I know it's hard to do apples to apples, different ohm loads "Output Voltage and Impedance 8V/55 " different THD's "Total Harmonic Distortion (THD): 0.008%" yadda yadda...frequency range, voltage. I have been looking to switch from Alpine to Eclipse on the simple thought that Alpine is usually 4-5V where eclipse can be 8V and upwards. Help me out here guys!
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WHat kind of wiring kit should i get for a 1000 watt amp 2 channel?
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ive made posts before about a kicker 2500.1, mtx ta92001 and hifonics xxv amps, but im not sold on them.For a while ive been trying to put together a setup and i think i got it. probably going to go with 2 15" BLs. And ive seen an american bass VFL 200.1 rated 3000 watts @13.8 volts, so I was like sweet, and i would like to know how much this amp runs for (price).and ill have all new electrical to back this amp up. Thanks ~ROB~
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So here is my setup in the back of my crew cab: You can follow the blue 4ga OFC and see the power inputs for the amp. My question is in regards to the ground. Right now the 100.4 (on the left) is grounded to the bolt you can see through the carpet almost under that amp. The 1000D is not hooked up yet, but I don't really think a run of 4ga to that same bolt is a good enough ground. Do you guys agree? I was originally planning to put a bolt through the floor right under the 1000D and ground both there, but the fuel tank is directly below that amp. I have 4ga OFC as well as some spare 1/0 CCA. Here are the options I see: A) Get a 1/0 to 4ga reducer for the ground input and…
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I have a 220a MechMan alternator with two runs of zero going to the two XS power S3400s in the back. Nothing except the alternator is connected to the cars main battery but yet my cars battery is running at 16.5+v. The voltage jumps around like crazy to, no predicting it. Why is it doing that and what can I do to get it to sit at a stable 14.1-14.4v?
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About to be doing an install in a newer charger and a dash kit for an after market radio is like $500 so just tring to see what the best option would be if the customer is not trying to spend 500 on just a dash kit . . Just going to be adding a sub and amp
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I forgot to rewire the BTL to 4ohm when I swapped it with my 15's in the HT, and while I was doing so, I began to wonder, if my amp is only 4ohm stable, how does it function exactly, under 4ohm? (I had it wired at 1ohm for the Neer) For example, if you sweep the box, and you measure your entire playable range, and it never exceeds the rated RMS of the amp, say you're wired at one quarter rated minimum like me, and you have it set conservatively, and safe, does that prevent premature failure that low impedance is known for? Is that how people run amps at .25 daily and shit since it's only passing the rated amount of power through? I always assumed they did that for comp…
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I have all green led lights in my truck and i know that a lot of companys make amps with blue lighted logos but i want a green lighted logo. I need an amp that is 600 rms at 4 ohms. For my FI x12. Or if any one knows of one thats closer to 1000rms at 4 ohms but still cheap that would be great. I know my budget is really low but its about 150... Thanks for any help
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Had to disconnect my radio for trouble shooting and when I hooked it back up with yellow to yellow red to red it dosnt wont to power on unless it's hard wired yellow to red.. I have a extra orange (illumination) wire left can't remember if it was hooked up or not please help so I don't have to take my deck out everytime
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hey everyone! Sorry for another "Vs." thread, but i would deeply appreciate any help I dont know which amp to get? the memphis prd 1000.1 or the sundown 1000D, what are some pros and cons of each amp, and what amp will suit me best with a FI Q12 with a 2007 honda accord with stock power Thanks
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I have a buddy on another forum that has a KX 600.1 and it keeps going in and out of protection mode. The green light comes on for a while, then cycles back into protect, then green, then protect............. Any idea what the problem is? He let one of his friends mess with it one day and I guess they cranked the gains full tilt. He blew his L7. He took it out for a little while and hooked it up to another driver and it was working fine. When he put it back in his car after getting his new L7, it started doing all this. I think he's screwed, but maybe not. Any suggestions? Thanks!
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Where is a good place to get anl fuses cheap. Been looking around on the web, I usually get them from a flea market pretty cheap, but the shop isn't there anymore.
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This is the Orion HCCA-D5000 Output Power at 13.8V: 1 x 1000W @ 4 ohms 1 x 1600W @ 2 ohms 1 x 2500W @ 1 ohm Dimension: 22.8
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- 10 replies
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- 1 follower
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So this just recently started happening. I'll be driving normally with the bass going at a decent level, not blasting but a decent level. Then just randomly my escapes information panel will say check break system then the traction control on, traction control off, abs, and parking break lights will all show up. All this happens for half a second accompanied by an alert tone. This only happens on punchy bass. I've checked all connections and they are fine, the battery holds a good charge, the alternator is still putting out, and voltage stays above 14 when this happens. Any ideas?
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So I download a lot of mixtapes from sites like DatPiff and so on. They sound alright. I DLed on my Game's old songs today and it was amazingly loud and clear, like hurting my ears while playing. Music usually doesn't get that loud in my ride. I believe there is too much variance in mp3s. I don't remember this with CDs. Always loud and clear. Anybody here still bump with CDs? And what are some good high quality strictly CD players, if you can still get them?
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Sooooo I feel like a total noob lol. Most amps that can be strapped have a master/slave switch. My atomic AT3000.1s do not. But they are strappable. Now I assume these strap like a saz3000 due to being almost exactly the same amp. Don't post up pointing out differences or bashing my shit. These amps are badass. From what I can see, saz3000 amps do not have a master/slave switch either. Referring to this thread the layout of my atomics are exactly the same minus the fuses of course. On the control/RCA side my amps are exactly the same. So I guess they automatically switch when strapped? Or is there a hidden switch somewhere?
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Whats a good amp for two 15 l7s. I was gona get a zx1500.1 but i think that wont be enough power to push these 15s. I will also probably upgrade my battery.
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ok so i done some trouble shooting to figure out why im still getting voltage drops, light dimming, and why my subs turn off when i play heavy bass songs, and this is what i came across so today i measured for bad grounds, first i measured the battery with the car off, 12.6volts. secound i measured from the neg side of batt to chassis ground, got 0.01 as a reading on the DMM, so that means mininum resistance which is good right? i turned my car on, turned on the wiper blades front and rear, turned high beams and headlights on, and put my heater on MAX i put my HU to about 26/35 and measured the battery and it never went less than 13volts so with everything still on, i me…
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So, I had the Kenwood performance series 1800 amp. Almost 5 years and it finally went. So, I am in the market for a new amp. I was looking at the ct sounds at1400.1D. Seen Steve Meade bench test it. It seems impressive. But, keep getting told to don't waste my money. That it's not quality. So, I'm back to looking. I have a budget of $400. I'm not looking at skar or soundstream tarantula amps. Would like 1000+rms at 2 ohms. What would be recommended by you guys? I always stuck with what has worked. Which I always had kicker and Rockford fosgate. Soundstream tarantula amps have caught my eye more then skar. But, told this is the place to get a lot of knowledge on amps. I li…
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Hey guys! Looking for help on picking a new head unit. I've found a few, but want to see what the experts have to say or what else can be found. Will be installed in a 2011 GTI. No steering wheel controls. Base model. Requirements: Internal active crossovers Somehow able to mirror or have a really clean connection with my Android phone to where I can use apps like spotify and google maps on the unit. Don't want to have to touch my phone while driving. Double Din Dial volume knob, preferably one that "clicks" for each volume tick Ability to hook up back up camera Doesn't look too crazy Possible to keep it under $400? I don't care about CD play…
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Well, I got a new car yesterday and I am in the process of making the exhaust more quiet, but I am trying to figure out what I should get system-wise, as I have pretty much been out of the loop for a year or so. The system is going in a 2002 Trans Am WS.6 (cammed, full exhaust, 12 bolt rear, a few suspension mods, etc.) HU: I am looking at the Pioneer DEH-P880PRS with the iPod adapter for my iPod. I have always been a fan of Pioneer HUs and this one just looks sweet. Components: I am torn between getting a set of Focal 165 K2Ps and getting a set of Rainbow Profi-Vandium Kick bass 2 way components. Any other suggestions in the $500-600 range would be considered. Subs: I r…
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Well I don't know if I'm growing up, or just really wanting some better sound, but I'm really wanting a nice sq front stage. Unfortunately I can only adjust the placement of the speakers in the door panels for now, but maybe down the road I'll be able to do some more custom fabrication. This is an 01 tahoe if it makes a difference btw. I am running a set of realm audio 6.5 components off an eclipse ea4000 as my front stage at the moment. I would like to try a 3-way active setup, still using the realm 6.5s and tweeters, and getting either a 7 or 8 inch mid. I plan on running the 6.5s and 7s/8s off an eclipse XA4001 (or another ea4000) 4 channel, and 2 channels of the last …
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I really want one and am willing to pay anything reasonable, just give me a price!
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