Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

System consists of the following: • 2010 and up Camaro drivers side large stealth enclosure from Subthump • Knukonceptz 4AWG wiring and interconnects and speaker wire • MTX RE-Q • Subthump T-Harness (used so that we DO NOT splice into the factory wiring) • 12" Fi Q (dual 2 ohm wired to 4 ohms w/ all options and high qts) • ZED Audio Kronos bridged @ 4 ohm (1000rms) There are a couple things that seem to be off. For one, we are using the factory headunit and thought that the RE-Q would be perfect because of the bass restoration, and the fact that the Kronos needs unbalanced grounded preouts (as said by Steve from ZED). Now, due to the fact we havent installed any bass blo…

Do you guys know how i can simply bypass the safety feature for the dvd so it will play while driving ? On most units you just geound the parking brake wire but from what I've read online this wont work? Its the factory dvd nav system. Any help would be great. Thanks

ive made posts before about a kicker 2500.1, mtx ta92001 and hifonics xxv amps, but im not sold on them.For a while ive been trying to put together a setup and i think i got it. probably going to go with 2 15" BLs. And ive seen an american bass VFL 200.1 rated 3000 watts @13.8 volts, so I was like sweet, and i would like to know how much this amp runs for (price).and ill have all new electrical to back this amp up. Thanks ~ROB~

I just had to replace my highs amp (jl audio 360/4) due to a malfunction. I was getting "engine" noise that came and went and also was present with car not running??! So I purchased an RF P400x4 to match my sub amps (t1500bdcp). I am happy with the amp, its the new model so it has input clipping and output clipping indicators, and a fancy set up disc with all tones and sweeps necessary (0db and -5db). So far very pleased. Also just fyi my pioneer p4400bh DOES NOT CLIP even at full volume. But that being said I had to go almost 3/4 on gains to get the required output without clipping of course. Also my sub amps are up quite high. So, long story short, I am getting very int…

I decided on the elemental designs nine.1 - i've heard some pretty good things about it and decided to give it a shot. good decision or bad? let me know what you guys think

I need a new 2 channel to drive some 6.5"s in the doors. I need something on the small side and not looking to spend a lot. Mind you I don't want some Walmart brand $30 specials either. Anyway, back in the day I had a Soundstream Lil' Wonder amp. Loved that thing to death. I know several of the bigger companies back when I got into car audio (late 80's ish) have really gone downhill in terms of build and quality. I came across a Rubicon 2.250 that will fit the space requirements and the power I need. Not familar with anything they have made in the past few years. Are they still pretty decent? Not looking to compete or anything like that. Just looking for something …

I just spun myself out on this, I feel like I know the answer but fuck it If i'm running an amp that draws 400a rms, and I have a 200a alt, a g31 under the hood 4/0 to the rear bank, and 6 g31's in the rear, I fuse appropriate for the wire always, not the peak rating of my alternator yes? something like, 300a for 4/0 iirc. If I already plug up the bank and charge it fairly often (once a week), no real concern for such a small alt supporting that bank, correct?

I have all green led lights in my truck and i know that a lot of companys make amps with blue lighted logos but i want a green lighted logo. I need an amp that is 600 rms at 4 ohms. For my FI x12. Or if any one knows of one thats closer to 1000rms at 4 ohms but still cheap that would be great. I know my budget is really low but its about 150... Thanks for any help

heres my problem, i already have my amps in hand, in question is the mono subwoofer amp which is a hifinoics brutus BRZ2400.1D RMS Power @ 1 ohm 2400 watts x 1 channel i also already ordered my subs which are 3 fi q series 18's, someone brought up to me that with ohm rise i really will only see around 500 watts per sub, and to me thats a waste when thats only half there rated power..so i have 2 options to go from here, by another fi q and end up with 4 18's and buy another brz 2400 watt amp which would really put a strain on me budget wise, or stay with the 3 18's and use the brz 2400 watt amp on 2 of the fi q series and buy a Hifonics Brutus BRZ1200.1D for only $209 and …

the current radio is a cassette deck, and the cassette deck doesnt even work. im stuck with listening to the same crap over and over and over again. the reception also sucks balls, and i think that's why my right speakers sound like they are distorting. I heard the exact same stock system speakers i have in a buddies car and it sounded GOOD. im gonna try to reproduce what i heard if i can't ill go all out active aftermarket. these stock speakers have mucho potential. you might ask why i got the 9887 if i aint going active. I dont like the look of the 9886 and i like to keep my options open. once my crutchfield order comes in on the 5th with the ipod cable and din r…

Eyh, Got a great deal on dual DD3515 2ohm dvc subs, so i'm planning on running them at 2 ohms, Been looking at the kicker 2500.1 amp but is there any more good altarnatives out there ? Thanks, Denven

I have a tc-loc2 hooked up to a hifonics brx1100.d running at 2 ohms to a re sex v2 12" in a 2 cu ft 32hz box. The amp is rated at 800 rms at 2 ohms and and the sub is rated at 750 rms. I have the gains on the LOC all the way up and the gains on the amp at about 6/8ths, now that is partly because I set the gains with the remote at 50%. Anyways is it alright if the amp gains are maxed out because if I turn the loc gains down I will probably have to. thanks

I know it's hard to do apples to apples, different ohm loads "Output Voltage and Impedance 8V/55 " different THD's "Total Harmonic Distortion (THD): 0.008%" yadda yadda...frequency range, voltage. I have been looking to switch from Alpine to Eclipse on the simple thought that Alpine is usually 4-5V where eclipse can be 8V and upwards. Help me out here guys!

Hey I wanted to know if I could get some help for a friend. His car is a 98 Toyota Avalon and he recently bought a 250amp mechman alternator. He switched out his old alt for his new alt(Everything on the new alternator is a plug and play), revved the engine made some minor positioning adjustments to get rid of the squeeky loose noise. We went to a bank to get some money for my brothers install he did. The battery was dead for some reason. So we thought maybe the remote wire for the subs was touching the power wire while in the bank for so long. That wasn't the case. Anyways we got a jump and headed to a auto performance shop to put my brothers new muffler on. Well on the…

Whats up everyone, alright so i came across this voltage meter on amazon today and was wondering what you guys think of it. Its a ciggarette lighter voltage gauge. Do you think it would be accurate? If not how off do you think it is and why? i know the cig lighter is hooked straight up to the battery and its a 12v lighter but will this volt meter be accurate at all? here it is http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3721-Battery-Charging-Monitor/dp/B000EVWDU0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1307664465&sr=8-3

I currently have the IA 10.1 amp and a 15 inch Death Penalty with dual two ohm coils. I was worried about my electrical so I ordered a 1200w amp to be safe. My stock electrical holds at 15.2v at full tilt. It spikes down to 14.9 but quickly recovers due to the smart alternator, which is rated at 150 amps. The subwoofer definitely can handle more power. So my options would be to buy another 10.1 and strap them at 1 ohm or sell the 10.1 and buy a larger amp, DC audio 2K, or buy two other amps and strap them at 1 which would look good. Don't want to spend too much but I know another 10.1 is 400.

Where did the gain setting tutorial go? I've searched everywhere and can't find it now. Can someone link me to it plz.

Hey People....I will soon be the proud owner of the SAZ 1500D!! I am wanting to get your advice on how to properly power the amp. I currently have a car with the stock 105 amp alternator. I've done the BIG 3 with 4 gauge wire. I also have 4 gauge running to my trunk.....It then goes into a capicator and then to a distro block where I have it going to a 2 channel 300 Watt Denon amp and also what will now be the SAZ 1500D.....I'm pretty sure that I will be starving the amp for power....SO...My question is mainly budget related. How can I give the SAZ enough power the cheapest way??? Can I run another 8 guage power wire and just use it for my 2 channel and leave the 4 g…

I forgot to rewire the BTL to 4ohm when I swapped it with my 15's in the HT, and while I was doing so, I began to wonder, if my amp is only 4ohm stable, how does it function exactly, under 4ohm? (I had it wired at 1ohm for the Neer) For example, if you sweep the box, and you measure your entire playable range, and it never exceeds the rated RMS of the amp, say you're wired at one quarter rated minimum like me, and you have it set conservatively, and safe, does that prevent premature failure that low impedance is known for? Is that how people run amps at .25 daily and shit since it's only passing the rated amount of power through? I always assumed they did that for comp…

I am going to be getting my subs back this next week. I have 4 8's a 2000 watt hifonics brtus amp. with i believe 8ga wire with a optmia red top up front. would a cap be the way i should go or would another battery be better.

Ive been looking at some car audio companies that make very good quality gear. Ive noticed that the majority of them have caps for sale. Now, you think from reading all this stuff about them, they are bad ect ect that these high end companies wouldnt sell them. But there must be a reason. Just about every amp out there is filled with them. So why not add another ? Is a 1 farad cap better than 2 0.5 farad caps ? What about cap banks, 30, 40 farads ? Im, not about to go out and buy one I didnt bother posting this on ca.com because i know everyone will say caps are junk blah blah blah. Ive read that they can be helpful if your electrical system is up to par ( mine is )

My friend is planning to buy 1 RE 12" from the RE gruop buy, and i was wondering what amp will i need to power one of these? how much watts do i need for these subs?

Looking for a cheap amp for a friends car, he'll be buying my SA12s. Needs 1200 at two ohms. Are the Hifonics BRZ amps good? I found one for 200$ new.

So here is my setup in the back of my crew cab: You can follow the blue 4ga OFC and see the power inputs for the amp. My question is in regards to the ground. Right now the 100.4 (on the left) is grounded to the bolt you can see through the carpet almost under that amp. The 1000D is not hooked up yet, but I don't really think a run of 4ga to that same bolt is a good enough ground. Do you guys agree? I was originally planning to put a bolt through the floor right under the 1000D and ground both there, but the fuel tank is directly below that amp. I have 4ga OFC as well as some spare 1/0 CCA. Here are the options I see: A) Get a 1/0 to 4ga reducer for the ground input and…

Ok so i have a brz2400 that is rated to do 2400rms at 1 ohm. my question is about the fusing of the amp, it has no internal fuses, jus the one under the hood for the power wire. so with that said, would it be required to externally fuse the amp? and how would i go about doing this? what would be the correct size fuses? how many? where to put them? etc........ also what would be a good fuse to put under the hood for the amp power cable? there is a 150 in the holder right now and it is zero gauge cable, is that good enough? if not, what would be a recommended size for that with my amp? i am building my system for 2 12 xcons in my tc and i want to do it right the first ti…