Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

im going to be using a hifonics brz 2400 watt model amp, am i ok running just 1 strand of 0 gauge wiring to the battery or should i do 2?

I have a 18" Fi SSD d2 running off of a Powerbass ASA 400.2. The sub is wired at 4 ohms right now and was actually only running on one channel of the amp and getting 100 watts. I just changed it to bridged because I just now realized it supports 4 ohms. It's rated at 400 watts when bridged. My gain when only running it on one channel had to be almost all the way up for the sub. Is this because it was only getting 100 watts ? I still wouldn't think it would have to be turned up so high. I was really worried about clipping but never had any burning smells when playing full blast for extended periods of time. The amp gets kinda hot but never overheats. When it is wired bridg…

Whats up guys this is Rp i own a car audio shop in Lafayette IN i am running street c this year and looking for new amps... currently using 4 Memphis 4kw and pro-comp subs. looking at the 3000 watt ssa but i need test results on them... volt drop\ power\ ohm\ and amp draw

what is your favorite amplifer of all time and why? Mine is a Phoenix Gold M100 i had when I was 16---it was my first amp I ever bought with my own money. close 2nd is my Phoenix Gold MS1000---my wife let me buy(it was kinda like my birthday present 6months early) I still have both of these amps.

will a 130amp alternator suffice for a SSA ZCON 15 D1 either at .5 or 1ohm on a Crescendo bc200D and some other goodies down the road or would a 200amp alt be better

I'm helping a friend put together his system. This has to be such a rookie question but its something I've never had to deal with, all my systems I buy decks with enough RCA outputs. He refuses to spend money on a deck. He has a few laying around but only have 1 set of outputs on each deck. He plans to use 2 amps in his system (highs amp and sub amp) what's the best method to do this as far as running the rca's.

my fuse is one where i have to strip wire, but a ring terminal on both ends, then put the terminal over the posts that i tighten the nut on that holds the fuse in place. i first used the terminals that came with the kit, i just smashed the wire into the terminal on the ground with a hammer (ik im a noob but it worked for the battery end). it slipped out when i was running my wire, so i started over with both ends, and used a vice this time to hold the wire into the terminal. they slipped out AGAIN, ( ) so then i said F it and just smashed the raw wire between the fuse and nut, lol. what should i do!? the fuse is just gonna be sitting under my back seat in my explorer if …

I need to cross my tweets around 4k hz, mid range around 500-4000 and midbass around 50-1500 Not exactly sure on the crossover points yet, but its a rough idea of what i'd start with before I get into fine tuning it. I'm either going to use sundown SAX 100.4 for the tweets and mid range and SAX 125.2 for the midbass drivers WITHOUT AN EXTERNAL PROCESSOR, or buy cheaper amps without the crossover features and get an external processing unit with crossovers on it. Which do you guys think is a better option? any suggestions on cheaper, quality amps that lack the crossover features (maybe I'll go for 3 sax 50.4's and bridge each of them ) Any suggestions on a budget processo…

I have a xp2000 in the back and when I bought it I put it in my car and it charged at 13.1 or 14.4 @ 2k rpm. A few days ago when I turned my car on my voltage was at 13.1 like it normally charges at but when I revved the engine it wouldnt charge to 14.4, it slowly then dropped by .1 around per day until I unhooked it because it got to around 12.2. So I checked my connections and grounds and saw no problems. I then looked at the front battery and it was charging at 13.1 and 14.4, but the xp2000 in the back does not charge when its hooked up. So I hooked it up to a charger overnight and it read about 14.4 in the morning and unhooked it, I then went to work and came back…

I have 60' (40' clear/silver, 20' blue) of Monster 400 Series 1/0. I need another 100' (40'clear/silver, 60') blue though. So I was wandering if I should bother hunting like crazy for more Monster, which I have been doing, or sell it all and get some Knu Fleks 1/0. Basically, should I hunt for another 100' of Monster 400, or say screw it and get 160' Knu Fleks?

Hi everyone, I'm looking to finish the big 3 in my car. I already have a 0 ga wire from battery - to chassis. My alternator is difficult to reach. I must "lift" the car to reach it under the motor. My question is : can I take a point anywhere on the engine block and ground it to the chassis of the car (with a 0 ga wire) ? (I know !). That would be the third part of the big 3. I have a stock alternator, maybe the (+) alt to (+) battery part is not a "must do" part for me. Another question : I have one 0 ga wire with ring connectors, and one 2/0 marine grade wire with ring connectors too. Which one would you choose for the battery to ground, and for the engine block to g…

I would like some input on 5 channel amps from - Polk Audio PA1100.5 PowerBass ASA 1100.5x Infinity KAPPA FIVE Kicker 08ZX700.5 Hifonics ZXi 8010 US AMPS AX 5600 Budget $300.00 to $400.00 My Alpine PDX-5 is clean sounding, just lacking in the thump dept. I sold my old Alpine F353 as it was getting old and I wanted more thump. My system is Alpine 9813 HU, Alpine PDX-5 amp, Polk DB 6.75 components,Polk DB coaxails 4x6 rears, 2-10" Polk MOMO subs @ 2ohm, in a down firing box in a 98 GMC ext cab truck. 120 amp alternator, large conventional battery, 1frad cap, 8 ga power wire.

Hey all, I have done some research and could only find one head unit that would run .FLAC files or any lossless audio codec. And this head unit was super expensive and hard to find. Does anyone know a good way around this like a media player that can play them and will hook up to the head unit? Would auxillary cables degrade the quality aspect of FLAC making it pointless to try playing them on a MP3 player of some sort? Thanks guys.

Hey guys, I recently got my 1/0 gauge wire in the mail the other day, I am prepping it up with the clamps and getting the right sizes, and I look on the website and I see that I need a fused wire. I looked at the big 3 post and it says I should get the factory sized fuse. Can I get some pictures or some detailed information about the setup involved into this? I looked into the Big 3 post and nothing is explained into detail.....Only what it is. Any information would greatly help. Thanks, -Curt

I just got a sundown 3000d and it since it can run from 10 volts to 18 volts, ive got to thinking of a 16 volt battery setup for the future. But how would i do that and keep the rest of the car that needs to be 12 volts stay at 12 volts?

So as of now this is the best 5 channel amp I can find. By best I mean realiable and 1000+ rms for just the sub. I have not found one with higher rms then this one: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_23827_Hifonics-Zeus-ZXi60.4-1K.html Help will be much appreciated. Thanks!

Went out to my truck and followed the directions verbatim. Set my multimeter to read AC voltage, threw the 50hz tone up on the deck, and checked the voltage at the speaker terminals on my amp. I got nowhere near 30v, only 5.6v to start. Mind you, the gain level was at 3/4 at this point. What am I doing wrong?

I will be starting my build log as soon as I get a job, either this month (hopefully) or next month (at the latest) so I want to do everything right any buy the book. I drive a 2003 Saturn Ion with stock alternator for now(depending if I run my sub amp at 1 ohm or 2 ohms) and I have done the Big 2 (Grounds - Engine Block to Frame / 1run and Battery to Frame / 2runs) in Kicker HyperFlex 1/0 AWG. I will be using a Kenwood KDC-X492 (will be upgrading after the build is complete) for head unit with a Epic Center 160 for voltage and bass in older recordings since I listen to a lot of old school music. The subs have not been decided on and the interior speakers have not been de…

I know theirs many of these posts about people asking for a good amp to run there sub but I thought id post my own topic to fit my standards...I have/on the way a 15" Fi SSD. Even though I still haven't received my subwoofer and haven't heard it on my current amp I still don't think my US AMPS XT2000D is going to feed it the power i want. with that being said I want some ideas on a good amp that can put out as much power or a good recommended amount of power to push the SSD. my price range would have to be around 200$ or so...idk just thought id get some ideas if i were to get one soon.

Got my Orion 1200D from HCCAfan yesterday, thought I would give Class D a whirl while the RF undergoes surgury :ph34r: for a couple mods. Hooked it up this morning and just got back from tweaking. WOW! I drove that thing pretty hard at 2 ohms to see what she had and one thing she didn't have was heat. Warm to the touch but not hot, my Audison was warmer from pushing the mids. I got it to push a GB RLp at 1 ohm, but it pushed my PG 12Ti pretty hard. I dropped in Kickstart my Heart from the Crue and it damn near stopped my heart . I am a hardcore oldschool guy that thinks the world of vintage RF, PG, and PPI, the stuff from when JL was still an idea . I give prop…

I picked up a DMM the other day and have been reading up on setting my amp gains. I came across this the other day: So my question is, is it still safer to set your gains with a DMM than by ear?

im doing the big 3 with 2 gage but should i ren the - from the batt to stock ground or to a better spot?

hey guys, ive been lookin into a rd designs 5250 just wondering if they were a strong amp.. thanks!

Just recently i have experienced some problems with my system. 15" diamond audio hex pro & audioque 1200 (witch use to be a diamond audio 1200). At first i was experiencing a slight smell after a minute or so at loud volume. A friend of mine told me the capacitors in my diamond audio amp were frying. I then purchased a audioque 1200 and swapped it out with the diamond amp. At the first install the ground was bad so i moved it and scraped the paint. The slight smell came back even after switching the amps. I then started to experience the subwooofer fading in and out at times. One time it went completely silent and after turning the car on and off the sub came back on.…

Like the title says I am looking to put 2 12" FI Q's in my 05 ford focus. Ive never built a box but plan on trying to build this one haha. Any recommendation anyone has that would power these 2 well would be great. I currently have a 12 w3v3 hooked up to a TMA 500.1 amp (think thats right). The new box can be either ported or sealed, as i don't mind going across the entire width of the trunk, i will however need to leave the first foot and a half or so of the trunk open for my golf bag( plus room for flex? or mount up?). Thanks for your time guys.