Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I am thinking about purchasing a Rockford fosgate 3sixty.3 but I am wondering if it works with apole laptop. this might be a dumb question but I just want to make sure. I would like to program it through Bluetooth with my laptop.

i guess you guys got the topic right since iggy knows all about big head units man, the forum is dead so i am just being a bored post whore

Hello all! In today's day and age many vehicles have controls on the steering wheel for controlling functions and features of your factory sound system. Many are discouraged from moving to an aftermarket head unit for the sole reason that they would then lose these controls. Well fear no more! This video will show you my experience with the Axxess ASWC - Steering Wheel Control Interface. I found this interface to be extremely easy to use, easy to install, and easy to program. Following the steps outlined within the vehicle will have you well on your way to controlling an aftermarket head unit with your factory steering wheel controls. I hope you enjoy!

so my friend buys this amp and takes it to our local shop, and is told it's a memphis that'll do 1000watts (don't know if thats rms or peak) but anyways this amp is freakin huge...gotta be like 2 feet x 9" x 2.5", and weighs like 20-30lbs....i dont have any pics of it but it has a shiny brushed finish, and no logos, or numbers on it..the top of it has a bunch of little slits that go all the way across it....but no logos...also the terminals look like 2 amps put together...2 channels on each side, 1 power, ground and rem on each side, and a filter on each side.....and its not 2 amps put together, i looked all over it and it's just 1 big amp......anybody know anything about…

i was thinkin i wanted to get a 3000-3500 watt amp for 2 15" BL's but i just thought to myself that im not goin to compete with them, so is having the extra 250-450 watts really worth it??

Hey everyone, I just bought a used Alpine CDA 9885 and I've connected and soldered all the connections together. When I put it in, it turns on and I can go through any of the functions, but whenever I adjust the volume knob, no sound at all is being produced by my speakers. I cannot pick up any sound through the radio, nor the Ipod function, though it will show that it is playing the track on the Ipod. Anyone have any possible ideas on what could've happened? I have already checked my soldered connections, and they seem solid, so I'm not sure what else it might be. Thanks again!

how much resistance is too much on a grounding point? Ive already read that under 1ohm is optimal but after doing some checks i'm just not going to get that in the rear in comparison to the front. my lowest reading in the back was between 1.8-2.1 Is that good enough? My next question is on the power wire. I'm using the rear battery as a distro for my amps. measuring from front to rear then from amp to the the end of the wire is normal. but when i connect all to the battery the rear battery and measure I'm getting 30+ ohms on all connections in the rear even on the wire that is coming from the front battery. also this occurs on both ground and power wires. the battery is …

I'm currently helping a friend purchase the rest of his setup for his Durango. He bought my 12" Cerwin-Vega! Vmax D2 Driver. It is in a 2.5cu ft. box (ported). Memphis Ampl That is the amp he is going to buy. 500RMS at 1 ohm. Class D Question is: Run 4 gauge or 2 gauge? And he has a stock deck, so I will need a LOC, where is a good place to purchase them, and i would need a write up on how to wire one in, along with a source for the remote. Final: Woofersetc is a good site to order from right? I've known quite a few people that have ordered from there without problems

I would like some input on 5 channel amps from - Polk Audio PA1100.5 PowerBass ASA 1100.5x Infinity KAPPA FIVE Kicker 08ZX700.5 Hifonics ZXi 8010 US AMPS AX 5600 Budget $300.00 to $400.00 My Alpine PDX-5 is clean sounding, just lacking in the thump dept. I sold my old Alpine F353 as it was getting old and I wanted more thump. My system is Alpine 9813 HU, Alpine PDX-5 amp, Polk DB 6.75 components,Polk DB coaxails 4x6 rears, 2-10" Polk MOMO subs @ 2ohm, in a down firing box in a 98 GMC ext cab truck. 120 amp alternator, large conventional battery, 1frad cap, 8 ga power wire.

hey guys, im looking for the best headunit for the best price. im looking into either alpine or pioneer. i want gps navigation, touchscreen, dvd player,equalizer, and most importantly...SOUND QUALITY! money isnt the issue but can someone please list specific HU's that consist of these features at the lowest cost??? anything under $800 is fine

About ready to start putting batteries in this compartment in my car and need to line the wall with some sort of padding so the batts are not just wedged in there around wood. I figure I might as well go ahead and get something that can keep this compartment somewhat warm so i can have the edge in better performance during the cold season for when I compete. So, any thoughts? For the side walls, i have about 1\4" gap on each side of the batts for reference sake. Front and rear, I have 1 1\8" gap in front and behind batt bank. I also have room to put something under them as well but if i do , it must be severely thin, like 1\8" thick, no thicker.

Well, got a new Kenwood KDC X794 headunit, set my gains with a dmm (BL 12 btw, powered by a SAE 1200d) to 34v using the gain setting formula here in the forum. And I still don't think my sub is reaching potential. At BEST I get an inch of excursion, and almost every video of other BL 12's ive seen do better than this. I don't think the problem is a LACK of electrical, since my lights dim hardly at all and my voltage never drops below 13.5 (stock electric). But I think there could be a bottleneck somewhere in the electrical. Could this be the problem? I've done the Big 3. I'm not sure what else it could be.

i recently bought a fi bl 15 dual 1 ohm sub and in desperate need of an amp with 0 guage connectors

a friend of mine is looking at getting a new system in his grand prix. so im gonna to hook him up with a dcon 12 but i need an amp that will run it safely. maybe a 500w @ 1 ohm. or a 1000w wired down or something along thoes lines. let me know what for amps i should look at but his price range would probably be around 300-350 for everything.

My sister is looking to add a sub and amp to her 07 charger. She came to me and I showed her a few things. Prices are too high. I'm trying to get her into a single 12" ia lethal injection or fi Q possibly icon. So we're looking at around 1000 watts rms. showed her the sundown 1000.. Too much ($289). What do you guys recommend in the $150 or so range for an amp? Is something of fair quality able to be had new for this price or is used the route I'm going to need to take? Just looking to toss around some ideas and see what others have had experience with. Sub choice is pretty much set. I have a friend with a single 12" fi Q and she liked how it sounded. Absolutely hates ho…

I put my mechman 240a alt on and have a group 65 diehard platinum under hood and small stinger in back. when playing full tilt on heavy bass im seeing low 12s. If i add another big plat in the back will this keep my voltage in the 13s or will it still drop to 12s as that's what the batteries rest at? this may be stupid question but none the less i am curious.

So here is my system so far: ID CTX65CS comps SAX-125.2 for the comps AQ1200D amp SDC2.5 12" sub Now i was told by the only good car audio place in town that the 9887 is the way to go. I read on here that there's really no reason to buy the 9886 (or anything at that level) and that the OP should either go up or down. I'm not planning on buying anything new, at least head unit wise, for a really long time so I don't want screw up. I really don't know too much about head units. I haven't even bought one....I have a sony xplod that came with my first car, and I still have it (its been about 2-3 years). But that HU just isn't gonna cut it anymore. I figure I'd be fine with…

How do i know what size fuse to get? 20 amp or 300 amp? Is it a preference thing or what? Anybody care yo elighten me...

my setup will be a 3way setup for my front stage consisting of; 8"(undecided) in doors 4" CDT gold 2way set in kicks 12" iCONs in trunk HU is kenwood DDX7017 (somethin like that) amps will all be kicker(undecided on models) so my question is; is the KX3 3-way active crossover from kicker a good option? if not what would be better? im debating on also putting a set of some 6.5 midbass drivers in the panel next to my door for a bit of rear fill, i know its not most peoples taste, but my 3way setup is worrying me about missing some fill. if i decided to use those rears would u just use the 2way crossover as well as the 3way for the front? is there anything im missing? thank…

Gonna buy a single 10" or 12" X or Icon, which ever pops up in the classifieds first. Will be in a .8-9 cuft fiberglass box sealed, polyfilled 1-2lb iirc. This is an under seat setup for a 4 door dodge pickup. I've seen the black ice has been proving a decent amp for the money. Just want to get any last opinions or reasons to not get it and go with something else. I don't want to spend more than $200-250 on an amp at the moment. Thanks!

I got a 9885 a week ago and was installing today. It's going into a 86 Mercedes so I connected everything temporarily to make sure the wiring was correct. After setting it up and running it for about 10 minuets the rear heat sink was to hot to touch. Normal? If not what might be causing this or do I need to return to BB?

Hello, I have a 2000 Crown Vic Police Interceptor. It has a heavy duty battery and a HO 130 amp alternator. At the moment I have 2 Kenwood 12's (Yes, I know they're not that great, but they get the job done at a cheap price ) with an alpine 500 watt amp. I was happy with this setup until it quit working a couple weeks ago The amp just cut off, and I haven't been able to get it back on (I checked the amp fuses and the in-line fuse). I think the amp is fried, but I'm taking it to get checked out in a couple days. If it is fried, then I'm going to use this as an opportunity to upgrade. I'm thinking about getting an 18" Fi BL sub and possibly an AQ1200D (unless you think I s…

lookie here!! hehe..i want at least 2!!! wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

I had 2 15" Alpine type r's but now, come to my discovery, i had 16 guage wire running from the amp to the subs... What size should i get for a 15" FI BTL? running a little under 2000 watts? 12? 10 to be safe? ohhhh... the amp says "speaker terminals (molded) 12 ga." i measured, and i could easily fit up to 5 ga.

So If I have the ZED Leviathan amp and the AudioControl DQL-8, and they both have crossovers. 1. Which would you use, the crossover in the ZED amp or the crossover in the AC DQL-8's? 2. Why? BTW the Leviathan and EQL-8 are going into two(2) sets of Bravox Audio CS60K components and one(1) SSA DCON 12D4. Please don't recommend anything other than the two crossovers available in the two units mentioned. TIA!