Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Hello, I have two 12" SSA GCON dual 4ohm vc subwoofers in a sealed box I made. (750w rms each) I was previously driving each subwoofer with an Infinity Kappa One amp, 800W @ 2ohm, but my stupid pre-out adapter decided to push 12V to the amps, frying their input circuitry. So I guess I need a new amp or two, and was wondering recommendations, and what info you need in order to give good advice. Car: 2011 Dodge Charger Hemi Sound deadened trunk (2-3 layers ballistics damper) Wire: 1/0 KnuConcepts to the amp, 10 gauge to the speakers Speakers: Two 12" SSA GCON dual 4ohm voice coils, 750W power handling, RMS Enclosure: wedge shaped, dual 12", 1.5^3 foo…

I have a soundstream XXX4000d is this amp worth anything? I have it currently on my 12 inch warden and I am not feeling the power or seeing the numbers that I should be. Is this amp junk or am I missing something. I have 3 batteries, a 220amp alt and the dual 0 gauge inputs going from the batteries to the amp. The sub is in 3 cub with a slot port tuned to 47hz. I am only at 145.2db and we tuned the box for the rez freq of the car.

Hi guys, I'm about to get a brand new Mazda CX-5 : I already made a big payment on it, I need to sell my Toyota auris. This Mazda has no Bose option, nothing too fancy. Should I get an aftermarket head unit or keep the factory one. I will run my 2 amps on my speakers : one IA 20.1 and a 3.4 1) I can use my current Pioneer 9300 sd, and still have my steering wheel control, with an additionnal Pioneer or a PAC module. It seems easy. 2) I can keep the factory head unit and add a processor or a line driver, whatever, to run my both amplifiers. What would you do ? I don't need bluetooth, I don't know yet for any rear camera, but I may need it later. It will be my fir…

Anyone know anything about the old Sony XM7557 . And what would be a decent price to offer someone. Someone i know is selling one and asked me to make an offer

Hello, I have a 2000 Crown Vic Police Interceptor. It has a heavy duty battery and a HO 130 amp alternator. At the moment I have 2 Kenwood 12's (Yes, I know they're not that great, but they get the job done at a cheap price ) with an alpine 500 watt amp. I was happy with this setup until it quit working a couple weeks ago The amp just cut off, and I haven't been able to get it back on (I checked the amp fuses and the in-line fuse). I think the amp is fried, but I'm taking it to get checked out in a couple days. If it is fried, then I'm going to use this as an opportunity to upgrade. I'm thinking about getting an 18" Fi BL sub and possibly an AQ1200D (unless you think I s…

I know some people have issues with Maxxsonics stuff, but they do have a few decent lines. The new Hifonics GLX and ZRX lines look pretty good. Im pretty sure the GLX is the BRZ/BRE replacement, and the ZRX is the ZXI replacement. GLX costs more then the ZRX, but has better X-Overs, and should be their more premium line. Though the ZRX line looks better to me. Just ordered the new Hifonics GLX100.4 since its smaller and will fit under my seat, and should handle a nice set of comps and a lower end sub setup well. Prices are a bit high, but sonicelectronix lets you make an offer. Got the 100.4 for $170 shipped. Lowest offer on the GLX1000.1D they accepted was $185. Didnt o…

So I went to a local car audio shop today to see if I could use their DMM. I wanted to get voltage and amp readings to see what my amp was really doing. Of course, first thing he has to be a funny guy and ask me if i need new subs because I replaced the ones I bought from him with a BTL. He lets me use his occilloscope and I take my first reading with car off at batt. 15.5 VOLTS!!! Uh...Wtf? So then Im scared to even start the truck and see what it says then. 18.3 VOLTS!!! SHIT!!! Jumped in under the hood and turned the external voltage regulator set screw all the way down on the alt. This screw was never adjusted by me at all before, mind you. I installed the alt and le…

Downsizing my equipment and looking for a new amp to power 1 xcon. Just looking for a awesome mono amp 500-1500w @ 2ohms. Trying to keep it under $250 and not in a rush, hoping to come across some black friday deals. Any recommendations? So far I've came across http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_34764_Rockford-Fosgate-R1200-1D.html http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_68122_RE-Audio-USX-45KV.1.html and the IA 10.1 or sae-1000d

I can either get the base bl 15. Or the ssd with cooling. Im planning on running a soundstream rub1600.1 what do you guys think?

I have always crimped my connections as they mostly are 8 awg or less. Moving to large wire I have found crimping to be a royal pain in the a$$. I was looking at soldering as a nice option but I have only ever soldered water pipes. Is the process and technique basicly the same? Flux the wire and inside of bass connector, heat connector, insert wire and place solder around the edge of the wire so that it is pulled into the connector? Any help that you could provide or tricks of the trade would be great. Plan on upgrading the Big 3 this weekend and some under the hood wiring. Thank you.

Has anyone ever heard of their wiring? I've been looking at it because it was so cheap. It's on 1800woofers and I've looked at welding supply, I'm debating on which one to get right now. Thanks guys

I'm going to be upgrading my alternator. I have a 2010 Malibu 2.4l ecotec. I'm running a Hifonics 1700.1 BRE and I have a D2400 under the hood.. I was thinking about going with a Singer alternator and my question is, should I go with the 170A or the 240A?

i guess you guys got the topic right since iggy knows all about big head units man, the forum is dead so i am just being a bored post whore

Optima yellow top is 150 at auto zone. I heard that the Everstart batteries would be just as good and thier only like 60 at wal-mart.. which one, i cant have 2 otherwise i'll be in street mx3-4

someone is offering his hifonics brutus bxi 1606d for my Alpine MRD-M1000 should I do it? I know the amp is smaller and will be easier when I redo my box in the nest week, but is it better then my Alpine amp?

$450 amp budget, which way would you go? I could stretch to $500 w/shipping but that's it for now Im running (2) digital designs 2512c and they are laughing at my (2) brz1200 @1ohm ea 3 yellow top optima, 220amp alt I'm not a SQ critic so it doesn't have to be Rockford, ect. I want power over quality since I'm only spending so much this time around Thanks and any input is appreciated

So I get to the alt shop and talk to the guy. We test my alt with a clamp meter and a volt meter. Here is the results. No accesories 12.7@600rpm 13.9@700rpm 14.5@900+rpm Acc on (no stereo, just lights and A/C) 11.8@600rpm 13.6@700rpm 14.5@900+rpm Now here is the part that gets me. The alt shop told me that I do not need a smaller pully. Shop: "You need another battery and an isolator." Me: Why??? Shop: You have plenty of amps but low voltage. Me: OK, another battery run by itself is going to help? Shop: Sure it will... Me: please explain this to me? Shop: the second battery will no longer be tied to any of the other accories in your truck. Me: thats fine and all, b…

i was thinkin i wanted to get a 3000-3500 watt amp for 2 15" BL's but i just thought to myself that im not goin to compete with them, so is having the extra 250-450 watts really worth it??

I put my mechman 240a alt on and have a group 65 diehard platinum under hood and small stinger in back. when playing full tilt on heavy bass im seeing low 12s. If i add another big plat in the back will this keep my voltage in the 13s or will it still drop to 12s as that's what the batteries rest at? this may be stupid question but none the less i am curious.

Well everytime I narrow my choices down I find about a new head unit. Right now I'm deciding between the Eclipse 5435 and the Pioneer Premier DEH-P860MP/DEH-P8MP and Clarion DXZ755MC/DXZ855MP. In terms of SQ, features, eqs, etc, what is my best option? I would like the lighting on the unit to be all blue as well...that matters to me. Color screens of course are an exception.

I had 2 15" Alpine type r's but now, come to my discovery, i had 16 guage wire running from the amp to the subs... What size should i get for a 15" FI BTL? running a little under 2000 watts? 12? 10 to be safe? ohhhh... the amp says "speaker terminals (molded) 12 ga." i measured, and i could easily fit up to 5 ga.

how much resistance is too much on a grounding point? Ive already read that under 1ohm is optimal but after doing some checks i'm just not going to get that in the rear in comparison to the front. my lowest reading in the back was between 1.8-2.1 Is that good enough? My next question is on the power wire. I'm using the rear battery as a distro for my amps. measuring from front to rear then from amp to the the end of the wire is normal. but when i connect all to the battery the rear battery and measure I'm getting 30+ ohms on all connections in the rear even on the wire that is coming from the front battery. also this occurs on both ground and power wires. the battery is …

Not my choice, but this girl needs an amp that does 400 watts @ 2 ohms. List a few ideas for me.

Well, got a new Kenwood KDC X794 headunit, set my gains with a dmm (BL 12 btw, powered by a SAE 1200d) to 34v using the gain setting formula here in the forum. And I still don't think my sub is reaching potential. At BEST I get an inch of excursion, and almost every video of other BL 12's ive seen do better than this. I don't think the problem is a LACK of electrical, since my lights dim hardly at all and my voltage never drops below 13.5 (stock electric). But I think there could be a bottleneck somewhere in the electrical. Could this be the problem? I've done the Big 3. I'm not sure what else it could be.

Hello all! In today's day and age many vehicles have controls on the steering wheel for controlling functions and features of your factory sound system. Many are discouraged from moving to an aftermarket head unit for the sole reason that they would then lose these controls. Well fear no more! This video will show you my experience with the Axxess ASWC - Steering Wheel Control Interface. I found this interface to be extremely easy to use, easy to install, and easy to program. Following the steps outlined within the vehicle will have you well on your way to controlling an aftermarket head unit with your factory steering wheel controls. I hope you enjoy!