Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I am planning on buying the hifonics brutus brz1700.1d for around 200 bucks. I will be only using it at 4 ohms for the time being untill i recone my subwoofer to single 2 ohm then ill run it at around 900rms. And if i ever end up going to a comp ill turn it up more. But what other amps should i be considering in that price range and power range? Btw i have stock alt in a 06 tundra and stock battery 4 awg wires... Will this be enough to power this amp? I can probably get 1/0 or 2 awg if i need to but as you can tell im not rolling in money.. Any comments, criticism, jokes... Its all welcome

Has anyone ever used this product? I have 4 saz1500s and wanted to buy this so all the outputs are the same. Would this be a good alternative instead of having to buy 100 y adapters? Is there any other options?

okay im running my subs at 2ohms but my amp isnt 2ohm stable, its a crunch 1100wat i kno someone selling a sony 1000watt 2ohm stable amp, is it worth it? he's selling for 35 bucks, (he needs cash quick) but is it worth it?

Well the title pretty much says it all. I am looking for an amplifier that pushes approximately 1500 watts at 1.5 ohms. My price limit is 400 bucks, maybe 450 if it was really worth it, but if it can be a lot lower, awesome.

Well i sent the piece of junk db electric alternator back and went for a dc. cant wait for it to show up ill be sure to get pictures and even a video. from everything i see it should be awesome cant wait.

I have a 400 watt class A/B amp running 2 10's right now. When I'm listening to rap music, after an hour or so, the amp shuts down from overheating, even if I don't have the volume up too high. Should I switch to a class D amp or would it not be worth it? I listen mostley to rap, but listen to rock and country too, I like to have acceptable SQ.

What are the advantages or disadvantages of swapping air conditioiner for second alt ?

Hey everyone, I was at the USACI/Second Skin show this last weekend, and I won a couple SSA subs, the 12'' DCONs. Anywho, I wanted some input from you guys as to what I should use to power it. A guy I know that works for Diamond Audio suggested this: Diamond Audio D3 600.1 Someone else said that amp isn't going to push enough power. So, what do you guys think. Any suggestions?

would anyone know how much more on average you can increase the output of a stock alternator just by doing a rewind. i added a second battery which is not much. the second battery is my old battery that is a stock from upfront in the engine bay. i have the 130amp alternator from a 2003 highlander, just need to get to 200A output but i know each alternator is different and will not be able to get much more out of it. thanks to all that can help me

Bought a Dual 1 ohm Fi BTL 18" Fully loaded. Whats a relativly cheap amp that will power this thing?

Hi, I want to uppgrade my stock system. I need a pair of 6.5" component in front and 2 12" woofers in the rear. My ride is Renault Trafic van. Can someone advise what and which model of the RF family to buy. I believe I also need some amplifiers, capacitor and accessories to go with. Thank you very much

So i was at my local shop and i was talking to the manager about buying a alpine 9887 and he was trying to tell me that I was making a huge mistake and active isnt worth all the time spent shaping the crossovers and then he told be the 9887 will not low pass the mid up too 2500 hz like i want to for my mli-65s so i ask all of you is he right that i would need more processer or is he full of it. Thanks for any help Brian

checking online i have picked 3 choices... 1. PPI D2000/1 + PPI A600/4 2. Soundstream Tarantula TRX2000.1 and TRX880.4 3. Boston Acoustics GT 28 + GT 42 Which combo would be best? setup would be a so called LOUD SOUND QUALITY type, a good set of fronts, might be 3 ways but with a good sounding loud sub from behind... Thanks for any inputs and experiences shared...

throw out some budget amps thatll do around 2500w rms @ 1 ohm daily, will run @ .5 or whatever if its stable daily...its for my 15" mts...i have 4. i know the power acoustik a3000db is rated at 2300w and doesnt even do that, but i heard they are .7 ohm stable daily, does anyone know what these amps are capable of? hifonics? help!

http://forum.realmofexcursion.com/showthread.php?t=11623 just become a member at the ROE forum and u can be in on it. I think i got quoted for a 300a alt for 400$ The more people the cheaper it will be. So far there are 5 and i believe it will be over on the 29 of sept. Don;t miss this

Ok i have a bad clippin problem. I think its my rcas because they have always sucked. What are.some good rcas i can get. i dont care about price. And what some good speaker wire i can get i have scoche 12 gauge power wire which i do NOT trust. And im having bad voltage.drop im running stock electrical with 1 gauge welding wire.

I have a BL 15 D2 running at 2000W (bridged) 4ohm on my US 2000x currently. Would hooking up each coil to each channel yielding 1000W at 2ohm to each coil make any difference? I would say no because 4ohm is more efficient? Thanks

Hi- I've needed a new alternator for a while and I'm finally starting to get my money up to purchase some upgrades. My 2000 Volvo S40 has a small alternator in a cramped engine compartment so most companies don't make alternators for it. DC Power and Ohio generator will make something for me, but I'm not sure which is the best scenario. I have an IA 40.1 (3600+ rms) and RF T4004 elite (~100x4). DC power quoted me ~$800-900 for a 270XP alternator. ~200 amps at idle, 270 max. This would be fine for my current system, but it's quite pricy and I could not buy new batteries this summer. Ohio generator quoted me ~$350-450 for a ~120A at idle (my stock max), and 200A max. Since …

anyone with these amps new let me know...receiveing sub this week and I am preparing. I am looking to up-grade the amp I have been tallking about I now have......G.

I have a kenwood unit now that I like because of the iPhone interface and the front panel USB. Problem is that it only has 2.5 volt pre-outs. Dont really care of brand as long as it is name brand and reliable. Cd's are a no go as the vibration from the bass just ejects them now. So I'm looking for something that has USB and preferably iPhone compatible and has 4 volt pre outs. Open to all options and wanna stay around $250-$350ish range. Any help appreciated

Cruising around and bam battery light. Checked voltage, amp terminals, alt post, and batts. All checked out. Cranked the bass, voltage was dropping to 11.9 when the day before just dropped to 13.2. I have a dual alt kit. I unplug my primary and boom 12.9. I gotta check a few fuses and relays but I believe it just died completely. It's a tenney 270amp but I'm gonna probably get mechman or someone to rebuild it. If not ill grab me a hairpin 380!!!! Kinda sucks cause I was about to buy an iPad to glass into my dash.

just looking to see if anyone has any hands-on with the 3.1 i jsut got one from a buddy perfect shape and i want to know if it will be worth it to use with my 2 sets of RF T162s 6.5 comps

This is the guts of the radio. capacitore blew on the right side this is the small fuse for the power wire constant... this picture is the wiring there are three wire one is power constant, ground and the third wire is one speakerwire(that runs in the dash) hahah only allowed one speaker nonsense. radio back in the dash. comments... will take pictures of the current set up soon.. should have did a build log

how can you test if a bad remote line out from head unit is causing amp not to on?

what are some high efficient amp brands? 3k-4k watts I know mmats and b2 audio make some efficient amps.