Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

i have two fi ssd 15's running at 600rms each on a pheonix gold 1200.1 and it just isnt pounding enough for me i wanted to give the fi's a little more so i was looking for a new amp. i wanted to give them anywhere from 800-1000 each. i came across an amazing deal and got a brand new opti4000d which retails for about $900-1200 and i got it for $300. i just couldnt pass it up.. i know there are mixed opinions on the opti's but for the most part i hear they are decent. now heres the question.. 3000 watts at 2 ohms is too much to give to my ssd's. what do you think i should do? im totally down for new subs.. or i can sell the opti and make like $500 for a new amp. i love the…

Looking into running a stinger SPP1200 up under the hood and a SPP2150 in the rear. Are these batteries reliable and strong enough to support 3000 - 3500rms on stock electrical with big3 and 130amp alt. And how do these compare to the others like Powermaster Kinetik etc. Any and all info would be greatly appreciated thanks.

I ordered a hifonics zeus 1800w amp. The spec sheet online says it uses 4ga inputs. I feel like 4ga is rather small for an 1800w amp. I know I can get wire reducers, but could I just run 2 fuse holders, and on the rear at the amp go down from 0ga to 4ga? Or should I just run 1 fuse, and solid 1/0 run to a reducer?

Alright guys. I picked up a Hifonics BXX2000.1D for my Fi BLv3 18. A good friend of mine has a scope, so we dialed in gains on a 0db 50hz test tone. I have the electrical to feed it. I’m able to maintain voltage at full tilt. I was reading about power and impedance rise and decided to clamp the amp and get some readings for myself. I’ll save you the time in telling me “it’s a hifonics amp, you get what you pay for... etc” I’m fully aware. I plan on going Sundown this spring with tax money. However, I’ve ran a few HF amps in the past and have been satisfied. I ran test tones at full tilt, 20hz to 55hz, measured AC voltage at speaker output termin…

just sold my jl audio hd amps. right now i am running some old school soundstream stuff untill i settle on some new amps. should i go with the old school linear power or the new zed audio? looking for the ""SQL"" set up i run 12w7's,jl audio c5 comps up front and and jl audio c2 comps for rear fill. should i stay with old school stuff or go with the new class d stuff again.

Long story short, I'm keeping the factory Nav/HDD/BLUETOOTH/IOD/DVD/MP3 head unit in my '11 Ram. I installed a PAC OEM-1 (OEM-CHR3) for the plug and play ease plus remote turn on from the can bus system. My question is on setting the output levels of the OEM-1. I installed the OEM-1 and just turned all four outputs on the LOC all the way up. Is this correct? Is there any reason I wouldn't want them all the way up to feed the amplifiers the highest signal level?

How well do these work? I was looking for a way to clean up the wires a little and allow moving the amp in and out a little easier. Was just worried about how well they stay put or if they come loose easily?

can some one give me names of companys that make HO alternators? and a website or # cause iam in the process of getting a 220amp one.

so I just upgraded my sub and amp. I went from two MTX Roadthunder 12's in a prefab with a Bazooka EL500.1 amp to A DD2510 in a custom ported box with JBL GTO7001 amp. I bought it from my friend. it was loud in his car (a neon) but not quite as loud as my old crappier 12's in my car( a camry). Nothing has changed about the setup except what car its in. My head unit is a JVC KW-NX7000, if that has anything to do with it. We just put it in today and I'm kind of a noob at car audio( I can wire stuff up, I'm just not as versed in the intricacies of it all). I haven't really messed with the settings on the amp yet. Right now it has a nice clear bump for when I listen to rock b…

Knowing I would at the very least replace the factory speakers in my 2008 Mazda MX-5 Miata I did not go with the Bose System when I purchased the car. It does have the PRHT or power retractable hard top as well as system controls on the steering wheel which is why for now I am going to try to keep the factory head unit. A couple of local installers have suggested I replace the current four speaker system with a better component system and amp. The factory four speaker system is all in the doors and consists of a a 3 1/2 tweeter and a 5 x 8. I need the little bit of trunk space I have so a sub box and amp board in the trunk are out. I have a passenger enough that a sub …

I have a memphis 16-MC2000D The guy i got if from said it was moded? How do i find out it this is actually true?

chit fudge chit driving home from school today, music playing next thing i know my truck starts randomly slowing down and my ABS light is blinking. THen i see my voltage meter is droping lower than usualy with the beat. I turn the system off and everything is good. Turn it back on and same problem. Im pretty sure my alternator just died on me. how this relates to the ABS randomly comming on i dont know. Glad my 4 year old battery had the life in her to get me home, Hopefully it can get me to the parts store to have my battery and alternator tested. If it is the alternator, while im paying $150 for a new stock replacemnt, i'll probably pay $100 more tops for a Hight Outpu…

Brand new Powerbass xta-1500d or used digital design m1b Xta-1500d Features: 1-ohm Stable Class D Circuitry Dual-link Circuitry Oversize Power, Ground and Speaker Terminals Variable Electronic Low Pass Crossovers Variable Electronic Sub-Sonic Filter Variable Electronic Bass EQ Self-Diagnostic Protection Circuitry Variable Remote Gain Control Specifications: Channels (mono): 1 Output Power (14.4 V) @ 1 ohm: 1500 watts Output Power (14.4 V) @ 2 ohm: 850 watts Output Power (14.4 V) @ 4 ohm: 450 watts Strapped Output Power @ 2ohms: 3,000 watts Frequency Response: 18 Hz -250 Hz Total Harmonic Distortion: <0.1 % S/N Ratio: >94 dB Input Sensitivity: 0.2 V -6.0 …

Downsizing my equipment and looking for a new amp to power 1 xcon. Just looking for a awesome mono amp 500-1500w @ 2ohms. Trying to keep it under $250 and not in a rush, hoping to come across some black friday deals. Any recommendations? So far I've came across http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_34764_Rockford-Fosgate-R1200-1D.html http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_68122_RE-Audio-USX-45KV.1.html and the IA 10.1 or sae-1000d

well i toke my deck out the other day and when i put it back in iv got this nasty buzz like real nasty and it will change with engine rpm and there is also a bit of "engine wine" but the buzz is much louder and the really weired thing is if i change source or change channel or if i turn the volume from 0 to1 or from 1 to 0 i get a nasty thump kinda like a turn on thump but louder. I checked my amps grounds and they seam to be fine i was thinking maybe its my deck's grounds or maybe i broke a ground strap somewhere in the car im going to try changing them tomorrow my day off. And i also tried a different deck and it does the same thing but they are both pioneers and i hear…

I drew out a little wiring diagram(yes i know it's crappy cause it's offa ms paint) for connecting RCA jacks off the HU for my planned system. In the front, the RE XXX woofer will be run off of a 2 channel amp and the tweets will be run off of two channels of the 4 channel amp. The rear midbass(Adire Koda 6.5) will be run off of the rear channel of the 4 channel amp. Crossover duty will be done by the HU(plan to get an Eclipse) and the 4 channel amp. Does that look right? or do i need something extra?

http://blog.sounddomain.com/gadget/2008/07...-stuff-you.html Nice

i was riding in my car on the highway the other day when my subs went completely off and i smelled something burnt. I stopped and the only thing i found was that the wire connecting sub to the amp came out of the amp and i think it touched the amp it self. The amp went into protection when it went off. my Highs gave me a whistling noise when it went off and would get low in volume. After i connected the wire back and shut the car back on. The subs came back on but doesnt sound as loud. And when i turn the volume up, i hear engine noise in my highs. Can somebody please help me figure out what happened and how to fix it. Thank U!

How do you guys strap your rear battery's down from moving? Im trying to add a second battery to my s10 and im kind of stumped right now, i have a few extreme idea's but its alot of damn work. I did it in my tahoe but it was easy, perfect spot under rear seat, this one will be where the rear fold down seat would be in an extended cab S10. what i have right now is the seat removed and I built a false floor in the area, I have a battery box but its too tall for this battery, i could cut it down maybe 3-4" but im afraid its gonna look horrible. i could also build like a battery box out of wood and screw it down, but my woodworking skills arent the greatest either, probably w…

I am planning on putting a system in my stock 05 Dodge ram 1500 Quad-cab and wanted to know if my electrical could handle it if i added a couple of batterys in the back? I don't want to buy a alt because i will be getting rid of the truck in about a year or so. the amp will push one DC lvl4XL or Lvl5 I have the whole back seat to work with for space If anyone needs any other specs just ask. Thanks for help in advance.

Okay, this is the deal; my current 3SIXTY.2 broke (it's the second one which has broken). The red light keeps blinking and according to Rockford Fosgate it means the Bluetooth chip on the 3SIXTY.2 is broken. I also contacted Rockford Fosgate Europe, they can repair it, but it will cost me 200 Euro's!!! That's insane! Anyways, I am thinking about ditching the Rockford Fosgate 3SIXTY.2 and go for a different brand. The only options I have found so far are: - JBL MS-8 (still not in production, wait will be to long) - Audison Bit-1 (still not in production, wait will be to long) - Macrom EXT.A1DSP (expensive, looks like a redone PPI DCX 730) - PPI DCX 730 (hard to get, no su…

I have a 2000 Bmw 528i, I've been looking all over the net for a ho alternator and I cannot find any. Does anyone know of any top notch companies that make or custom make h.o. alternators for bmws? excluding nations alts and power bastards.

i read the tutorial, but im having some trouble. im not getting anywhere near the voltage i should be with my dmm, and its NEGATIVE! of course im doing it wrong, but i need someone to talk me through it. could one of you pm me a phone number so i can call you? should only take a couple minutes, im sure its just something simple im messing up. would really appreciate it. thanks, Shaun

anyone ever had experience with hifonics? i've heard a lot of trash talking and underrating, but still even if it's underrated, it would be only pushing around 1000 or so... that's still a good deal for only 180$ but if these amps just absolutely suck, is there any amp someone could suggest in the 250$ range that would produce about 1000 watts rms? thanks a lot

i was looking around on the net i saw this amp audiopipe 30001d its 30inch long wow has anyone used them? you can get them for cheap 400 also has anyone used the 2 channel and for channel amps?