Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

The xtant is a 3 channel amp 75x2 + 150x1 at 4ohms or 150x2 + 300x1 at 2 ohms. The system is going in a Ford 350 dully. The doors have 6x9's. My original thought was to run ID's 2ohm 6.5 comps in the front and doing nothing in the back doors. Then running a single IDQ 10" or 12". Also thought of running 2 sets of 4ohm comps or coaxials in front and back doors. I haven't decided on a HU yet. Mainly just looking for one more geared for SQ and one that will run an ipod. I have plenty of time on this build and am not commited to anything but the xtant 603x. Any thought's would be appreciated.

I have currently a 250 amp fuse on my wire from alt to battery, would upgrading to a 300 amp fuse help or hurt in anyway? Does a bigger fuse give me more amp current to the battery (off a 180 amp alt)?

Whats up guys this is Rp i own a car audio shop in Lafayette IN i am running street c this year and looking for new amps... currently using 4 Memphis 4kw and pro-comp subs. looking at the 3000 watt ssa but i need test results on them... volt drop\ power\ ohm\ and amp draw

Got the sub and amp installed last night, and was noticing some dimming of the headlights driving around. I'm not really wanting to change out the alternator just yet due to warranty, but I'd like to upgrade the battery and hopefully that will resolve it. The amp is an Audioque 1200d running at 1ohm, so its making right around 1200w. Not really sure which route to go for a battery. Should I look in to an Optima or Interstate type battery, or go the route of an XS battery? It would be the main/only battery and used for daily use in both really warm and cold temps.

I have borrowed a tektronix TAS 475 four channel oscilloscope. It dosnt have the probes with it, i need to get them. And i want to use this to set my amplifier. So how do i make sure im testing my amp at 1 ohms? And what probes should i get? Any suggestions or tips for this would be extremly helpful. Im going to be testing a ppi bk1300.1d

k im looking to replace my headunit with one that has higher out put voltage whats a good brand and modeal i should look at i heard some of the kenwoods are good or would it just b better to get a line driver for my system

I'm looking for a amp for my Fi BTL 18(ordering next week) and I think a saz2000d and a BTL 18 would be a nice combo.

i was riding in my car on the highway the other day when my subs went completely off and i smelled something burnt. I stopped and the only thing i found was that the wire connecting sub to the amp came out of the amp and i think it touched the amp it self. The amp went into protection when it went off. my Highs gave me a whistling noise when it went off and would get low in volume. After i connected the wire back and shut the car back on. The subs came back on but doesnt sound as loud. And when i turn the volume up, i hear engine noise in my highs. Can somebody please help me figure out what happened and how to fix it. Thank U!

Yes i'm new at hooking up stereo's with tv's in them...I SEARCH THE WEB FOR HELP IDEAS I TRIED ALMOST EVERYTHING..First i just tried bypassing the wires before i i bought a pac tr-7 and that didn't work,,,I have no clue what to do next,,I can't even bring up the setting's everything is correctly hooked up i put in a dvd while park and all here is the move no image..I search the web got plenty of ideas and tried almost every thing..PLEASE IF YOU CAN HELP ANY IDEAS I WOULD HIGHLY APPRICATE IT SO MUCH,,Iv'e been hooking stereo's up 4 a very long time and this one has me stump,Thank's

do the monoblocks with the fans in them make a big difference or not unless you run then for a long period of time??..cause ive come down to either choosing the ED nine.1 or the massive audio p1500.1,the nine,1 has a built in fan and the massive doesnt but i heard the massive is a overrall better quality amp so i wanted to ask you guys...

The car is a Mercedes CLK55 2001, I have 2 amps 1 is 300 watts(150x2@4ohm), one is 1300 watts (1x1300@1ohm). For a total of 1600 watts. I have a Kinetik Power HC1800 as a second battery witch is to NOT let the lights dim if the system is under 1800 watts, unfortunately it does dim in the cabin and the amp for my front speakers sorta cuts out at loud volumes. once when i went from drive to reverse it didn't engauge and i had to put it in drive lower my system and put it in reverse, this has only happened once and i was beating really hard (i have not tried this again nor do i want to). I had a lexus 2002 ES300 before this and i did not have this problem, same setup. The 2n…

So my amp outputs 3500watts, but its fuses are only 3X30amp so 90 amps which is what 900 watt rms or something around that???? so whats gonna happen if i set it higher then what the fuses can take. I really want to set them higher since i got the bad boy 18 Fi BL.

How do I do it. Just set the meter to ac and see if I have any ac current.

i can get both for about the same price. i know the 8053 can run an active 2-way + sub. anyone know what sort of crossovers the alpine has ? which one to get ? i honestly don't have a clue as to which to choose...

I am thinking a running a 3way active system and was wondering what are some of the best headunits to use.

Ok, im pretty sure I have this right but I would like some confirmation to be sure. This is basically what my electrical will be.. the few things that can vary will be battery location, in the picture im going to add at the bottom I put the 2nd battery at the bottom(back).. easy to understand. the vehicle will be a Tahoe which has a 2nd battery tray.. should i use that 2nd tray or just keep it in the back close to the amps? That is one thing i wasnt 100% on, also Ill have a Kinetik HC2000 and a Kinetik HC1800 ... do i want the bigger of the 2 in the back? Also will someone look at my fusing in my picture to make sure that is correct also before i go buy all these damn fus…

The stock radio in my car has an RCA input hidden in the glove box. I would like to continue using the stock radio, but would like to add bluetooth to the radio instead of using an RCA to Aux cable. I had the BT-1A bluetooth receiver from parts express lying around the house, so I hooked it up to see how it would sound. It sounds like there is a lot of interference playing through it. How it is currently hooked up is just a cigarette lighter plugin to the bluetooth receiver and the RCA plugged into the stereo. What do you think is probably causing this issue? At first I thought it could be fixed using a ground loop isolator, but I have not tried this yet. After…

Was looking for something today, and found this hiding under some stuff. Anyone ever seen one like this or better yet used one like it? It looks to be over my head unless someone could dumb it down for me. I set gains by ear, but if this could be used I would like to play around with it some. There is no manual that I can find. Maybe I could contact the manufacturer, but thought I would ask here before I put too much effort into something that Maybe cant even be used for what I want to do with it. Here is a pic, sorry it's crappy took it on my Blackberry. Leader LBO 525L Oscilloscope 50MHz Any thoughts ?? Thanks.

I was talking to guy at the local shop and he got me thinking about pre-amp voltage and line drivers. I have a Pioneer 3200DVD with 4v pre amp outputs. He told me that a line driver would boost that voltage and make a night and day difference to my system. If someone could tell me how they work, and what it would benefit to me if I got one. Head Unit is stated above and the amp is a saz-2500d. He exclaimed it was needed, I don't think it is. He may of been trying to make a sale. Thanks in Advance!

120a2 just arrived, adn I plan on picking up a mint 800a2 this week

Last week my CDA-9886 started doing this thing where, from what I've noticed, at high volumes it will just restart in the middle of a song and keep restarting unless I turn it down. Running 1 Treo SSX 12 powered by an RD 1750.1D at .5 ohms for 2500 watts. Got a nice wal mart bat up front with 800 cca and a shuriken bt100 in the back, big 3 and all 0 gauge of course. Talked to the guy who's sold me RD stuff before and he said if it were the amp it wouldn't making the HU restart like that...which I pretty much knew. From what I gathered it's either a loose wire or worse, the HU isn't getting enough amps because of a shitty power cord to it... just wanted to get some opinion…

im thinking about ordering one of these amps to power my mids, i would like to know if any of you guys have used this amp and what are your thought about it and if it does rated power. thanks

What does what better then the other and which should i use for a 1500kW set up and a 3000kW set up? thanks

Hey guys, I came across a USA 442 and picked it up for a real nice price. Before I did, I wrote to US Amps and asked for some background on the amp. Someone named Jeff Coleman replied and gave me some info on the amp..... some power specs, production run, etc. But, he commented that the 442 had an interesting and complicated crossover and that if I couldn't get an original owner's manual that I should run an outboard crossover with the amp. Anybody got any comments? Advice? Experience with the amp? Thanks in advance.

So I'm going from Kansas city to Cali once I got to Denver I notice that my amp is getting hot not hot hot but a warm hot my apt is at 14.9 volt and I'm not playing it at all just listen to music but the amp is cut on