Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

i have two fi ssd 15's running at 600rms each on a pheonix gold 1200.1 and it just isnt pounding enough for me i wanted to give the fi's a little more so i was looking for a new amp. i wanted to give them anywhere from 800-1000 each. i came across an amazing deal and got a brand new opti4000d which retails for about $900-1200 and i got it for $300. i just couldnt pass it up.. i know there are mixed opinions on the opti's but for the most part i hear they are decent. now heres the question.. 3000 watts at 2 ohms is too much to give to my ssd's. what do you think i should do? im totally down for new subs.. or i can sell the opti and make like $500 for a new amp. i love the…

Like the thread says, looking for an amp for mids/highs. This will only be powering the front stage, so I was looking at 2 channel amps, 4 channel amps would work as well, but i'd kinda feel like i was wasting money on 2 extra channels (if this was for me, i would go 4 channel and just bi-amp, but its for a friend). He already has speakers that are 2 ohm and rated at 70 watts RMS. He doesn't have a specific budget for this amp, but around $200 should work for his overall system budget. Also, this is going to be professionally installed, so mainstream brands can cost a little more, since it will save on installation costs. I was looking at: RF Punch 400-2 (would be lots of…

I just ordered two 12" aa havoc's which are 1250 rms. What would be a good amp to run on these. I was looking at sundowns but didnt know if i shoudl wait for there new 2500 watt amp to come out or what

i was looking around on the net i saw this amp audiopipe 30001d its 30inch long wow has anyone used them? you can get them for cheap 400 also has anyone used the 2 channel and for channel amps?

Hello there, my name is Mark. I Would like some input on best options for continuing to improve my electrical system. I am not satisfied with the way things are performing now. Seems like my voltage is very inconsistent and that there is way too much draw at higher volumes. No I have not hooked a volt meter up to see what the voltage has been. However, the dimming of interior and exterior lights have been a good indication something more is needed. Here is a list of what's already completed. Thanks in advance for all input and help. Vehicle: 2001 Vw Jetta GLX 12v VR6 Audio Components Headunit: Pioneer Premier P980BT Amplifier: Soundstream…

In an Alero, what kind of alt will I need to run a 4000W amp @ 1ohm with 4-600W for components? How many runs of 1.0 wouldn't be overkill? Will one battery stayed charged and properly power 4500ish watts? Big 3 of course. Thanks.

My sister is looking to add a sub and amp to her 07 charger. She came to me and I showed her a few things. Prices are too high. I'm trying to get her into a single 12" ia lethal injection or fi Q possibly icon. So we're looking at around 1000 watts rms. showed her the sundown 1000.. Too much ($289). What do you guys recommend in the $150 or so range for an amp? Is something of fair quality able to be had new for this price or is used the route I'm going to need to take? Just looking to toss around some ideas and see what others have had experience with. Sub choice is pretty much set. I have a friend with a single 12" fi Q and she liked how it sounded. Absolutely hates ho…

Just bought a northstar nsb agm 34 Opinions? Any experience? What am I to expect of it? Electrical: runs of 0 gauge 220 amp alt Big 3 Duralast gold under hood Kinetik hc600 as 2nd battery Pushing roughly 2400 watts rms The kinetik is being replaced by the Northstar. I typically drop down to around 10.5v with car driving and sub playing. Just curious if this should solve my problem and if anyone has experience with these batteries.

does it matter how far the fuse is from the battery, as long as it's within 18"? more specifically can it ever be too close to the battery? i installed new wires in my friends car (power and grounds) and its only about 6" from the battery. his fuse keeps blowing so he tried a bigger fuse (still only 80 amps) could that be the problem? i dont know the specifics on what amp and such but its probably 7-900 watts. should he just upgrade to a 150 amp fuse? its 4 AWG.

we installed my single din headunit yesterday and im getting the movie playing through the speakers but not the actual video showing,could we have just missed a connection in the back?thanks for any information...

well i toke my deck out the other day and when i put it back in iv got this nasty buzz like real nasty and it will change with engine rpm and there is also a bit of "engine wine" but the buzz is much louder and the really weired thing is if i change source or change channel or if i turn the volume from 0 to1 or from 1 to 0 i get a nasty thump kinda like a turn on thump but louder. I checked my amps grounds and they seam to be fine i was thinking maybe its my deck's grounds or maybe i broke a ground strap somewhere in the car im going to try changing them tomorrow my day off. And i also tried a different deck and it does the same thing but they are both pioneers and i hear…

i just got my head unit installed and i was wondering can i install a portable hard drive into the usb port to play my music

Which sounds like a better idea to you. I am in need of a new double din gps radio and i also plan on going active. Here are the choices I can either get the new kenwood dnx9140 sax 100.4 for mids sax 100.4 for highs (will be mostly tuned down since the tweeters will not be able to take 160+ watts of power as they are 2 ohm) i would need to use the crossovers on the amp or the new kenwood dnx7140 rockford fosgate 3sixty.2 (used as the crossover) sax 100.4 for mids sax 50.4 for highs both cost the same or if you feel that there is something better that i should get please let me know

Well, I'm going to be running a AQ2200D (as some of you may know) to power a IA DP 21". Now I'm having some worries about my electrical system. These are my plans: STOCK ALT. It's a 150A Bosch alt. (Possibly 130A, but I'm pretty sure 150.) either 1/0 or 2/0 wiring all the way around. Positive & negative run to the front. (I know bigger is better, but do I need 2/0?) (1) Deka 9A31 in the rear. (Would go PM, but that's out of my budget. Plus, I can't justify spending that much on a single battery when I can get two Dekas for the same price, even though the PMs are better.) That's my starting plans. If this does not work out, I'm going to throw another Deka 9A31 …

Got the sub and amp installed last night, and was noticing some dimming of the headlights driving around. I'm not really wanting to change out the alternator just yet due to warranty, but I'd like to upgrade the battery and hopefully that will resolve it. The amp is an Audioque 1200d running at 1ohm, so its making right around 1200w. Not really sure which route to go for a battery. Should I look in to an Optima or Interstate type battery, or go the route of an XS battery? It would be the main/only battery and used for daily use in both really warm and cold temps.

So, I just but in the new BL, (see sig for more info), and I am very displeased with the amp I'm powering it with, so I think it's time for a new one. Current amp is putting out 600 at 1 ohm, (so it claims, not so sure it is), and I am looking to change that; on a $300ish or less budget I was thinking an audioque 1200d or an SAZ-1000d, (the pre-order for the sundown 1200 will be long over by the time I have the money for a new amp, so it is probably out of my price range). Are there other good choices out there? This is going to be a budget-concious set-up so if there are two solid amps putting out decent power, then I'd go for the cheaper one, unless of course it is o…

ok i have a 1995 dodge ram single cab and i am buying 8 rockford fosgate 5 1/4 4 in each door a set of rockford fosgate 6.5 components. i want to know what amps i should run these with i would prefer a separate amp for the component set. i am looking to buy from ebay,sonicelectronix,or onlinecarstereo. this is the product code for the speakers i am going to use. Rockford Fosgate P162S-- component set Rockford Fosgate Punch P152C-- speakers

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...5758551521&rd=1

I recently purchased a fi bl 15 with the cooling option and was wondering what might be a good amp for it thats under 300 shipped. I was looking into the audioque 1200 but it seems as if not many people have experience with them. All sugestions are welcome. The sub is a dual 2 ohm and going into a ported enclosure around 3.5 cuft(tuning suggestions welcome as well) maybe bigger if i can fit it, theres not too much trunk room in my saturn sc2.

I have borrowed a tektronix TAS 475 four channel oscilloscope. It dosnt have the probes with it, i need to get them. And i want to use this to set my amplifier. So how do i make sure im testing my amp at 1 ohms? And what probes should i get? Any suggestions or tips for this would be extremly helpful. Im going to be testing a ppi bk1300.1d

Who can I talk to about having a Treo 750.1 fixed, I've been told THE fets are fried.. I'm not 100% sure if anything else is fudgeed or what, but I'd like to see how much it'd be to get fixed, rather than buying another amp.

I've narrowed my choice down to these choices. Mechman 270 DC Power 270 XP I was wondering if the extra 35-40 amps at idle is worth the extra $150. I'm only running one AQ2200D, and I don't have an endless pile of money. I'm almost certain what the responses will be, so I think I'm leaning towards the Mechman. Let me know!

Few months back i installed the dsp on my vehicle and after few weeks of setting it up the mid bass dont play music sometimes after about 10-20 minutes then start playing. Also all the time left channels play music very low that you barely hear them then after 20 minutes they play fine. Once vehicle is turned off and turned back on after a while ill have the same issue again or they be playing fine. 2007 4runner, HU pioneer x4700bs, RCAs stinger 8000,helix dsp.3s, arc audio xdi 6ch & mono amp, peerless ne25vts tweeters, audison voce mids & lows and memphis m5 10s subs. System is ran active.

For Black Friday I found a great deal on an iPad mini and want to use it as my new head unit. I have done some research on how to hook it up and now have a few questions. I found the iStreamer that takes the signal from the iPads USB connector and converts to RCA but right now that piece is way out of my price range. So instead I wanted to use a 3.5mm to RCA output to run my amps. What I was planning was running the 3.5mm to RCA into the aux input on a Clarion EQS746 and running each output to its amp. Front going to my tweeter amp. Rear going to my mids amp. And obviously sub going to my sub amp. Will the EQS746 act as a crossover so I can control my system actively out …

I have a 18" Fi SSD d2 running off of a Powerbass ASA 400.2. The sub is wired at 4 ohms right now and was actually only running on one channel of the amp and getting 100 watts. I just changed it to bridged because I just now realized it supports 4 ohms. It's rated at 400 watts when bridged. My gain when only running it on one channel had to be almost all the way up for the sub. Is this because it was only getting 100 watts ? I still wouldn't think it would have to be turned up so high. I was really worried about clipping but never had any burning smells when playing full blast for extended periods of time. The amp gets kinda hot but never overheats. When it is wired bridg…