Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I am Neal Tyson the head of Team Neal Tyson (TNT) and I hope to be able to help you in any of your audio needs.

has any 1 Sean a berth sheet from a zx1000.1 what was its top rms and @ how many volt's. And are they 1ohm stable

the amp will be running 2 sundown audio sa-8v2 when i get then on a stable 14.4 volt system big 3 done stock alt and stock battery for now till i get the xs power and all 0 gauge wire with and an eq and the other odds and ends

I have scoured the internet last week and found nothing that can do this for real... I only found one amp, can't remember the amp but definitely could not do 200w x 4 @4ohm with a 60A fuse... I am trying to find an amp that can do 200w x 4 @4ohm so i do not have to get 2 amps that can do 200wx2 @ 4ohm. It's a space issue. Anybody know of such? And i do not plan on getting the 15K rockford amp.

i do not know if this is the right section for this, i was wondering if you would see any voltage increase in creating a heatshield or putting sound deadening around it to keep it a few degrees cooler

So I have a delima. I have a Chevy Sonic and the stock alternator is only 100 amps. I cannot find an upgrade for it nor can I find anyone that can rebuild it to have higher output. My question is, what can I do to upgrade it? I have already done the big 3 and upgraded the stock battery. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Like the topic says. If I'm going for a good SQ out of a sub, does the sound quality suffer if I'm running them at a lower ohm load like 2, 1 or .5ohms (as opposed to 4ohms). I'm looking to start up my wife's car with a SQ system and want to match subs and amps for good sq. Thanks guys.

anyone ever had experience with hifonics? i've heard a lot of trash talking and underrating, but still even if it's underrated, it would be only pushing around 1000 or so... that's still a good deal for only 180$ but if these amps just absolutely suck, is there any amp someone could suggest in the 250$ range that would produce about 1000 watts rms? thanks a lot

hi guys my question is. can a low battery bank cause my mmats hd 4000.5 to clip pre maturely.

i can get both for about the same price. i know the 8053 can run an active 2-way + sub. anyone know what sort of crossovers the alpine has ? which one to get ? i honestly don't have a clue as to which to choose...

just looking to see if anyone has any hands-on with the 3.1 i jsut got one from a buddy perfect shape and i want to know if it will be worth it to use with my 2 sets of RF T162s 6.5 comps

so I just upgraded my sub and amp. I went from two MTX Roadthunder 12's in a prefab with a Bazooka EL500.1 amp to A DD2510 in a custom ported box with JBL GTO7001 amp. I bought it from my friend. it was loud in his car (a neon) but not quite as loud as my old crappier 12's in my car( a camry). Nothing has changed about the setup except what car its in. My head unit is a JVC KW-NX7000, if that has anything to do with it. We just put it in today and I'm kind of a noob at car audio( I can wire stuff up, I'm just not as versed in the intricacies of it all). I haven't really messed with the settings on the amp yet. Right now it has a nice clear bump for when I listen to rock b…

How do I do it. Just set the meter to ac and see if I have any ac current.

Hey i am looking for something that can fit under my back seat. Needs to be thin and small. i found this but would like input to see whats out there. Rockford Fosgate PBR300X2 need 300 rms at 4 ohms. thanks for the help.

Is the tsunami DB440 amp any good? What other amps would be comparable?

ok, im going to be running a 15" FI BTL Ported at 33hz By a Hifonics Bxi-2608D(rated 2600W RMS) going into a 2000 Hyundai Sonata. Right now, im planning on upgrading the Big 3 Do i fuse that Batt to the Alternator or not? Doing the upgrade with 1/0 And running a 1/0 power wire fused at 300A to the amp, and Grounding it with 1/0... What is the MOST Logical and Cost Effective Mothod to Kepp it all in good standings...? Knowing that any of these methods could be inefficient for what im running, here we go... Capacitor? Second Batt? Higher Amp Alternator? Turn the Gain Down On the Amp? or anything else? please tell me what you think will be best and why the other suck balls …

I've narrowed my choice down to these choices. Mechman 270 DC Power 270 XP I was wondering if the extra 35-40 amps at idle is worth the extra $150. I'm only running one AQ2200D, and I don't have an endless pile of money. I'm almost certain what the responses will be, so I think I'm leaning towards the Mechman. Let me know!

i was riding in my car on the highway the other day when my subs went completely off and i smelled something burnt. I stopped and the only thing i found was that the wire connecting sub to the amp came out of the amp and i think it touched the amp it self. The amp went into protection when it went off. my Highs gave me a whistling noise when it went off and would get low in volume. After i connected the wire back and shut the car back on. The subs came back on but doesnt sound as loud. And when i turn the volume up, i hear engine noise in my highs. Can somebody please help me figure out what happened and how to fix it. Thank U!

Have two D2 Fi BL's each coil reads 1.7 like it should, I have them wired series/parallel for 2 ohm load being amps are strapped, when I disconnect sub wires from amp terminals to check the ohm load I'm at 1ohm technically I would be at .8 due to dmm is .2 off, I have each coil ran to back of box with 8 bolts/wing nuts, for easy load change, shouldnt my load be higher with box rise/resistance of bolts n everything else that comes into play, I triple checked all wiring from top to bottom pulled subs out several times checking coils/wires and everything is 100% right anyone have an idea

Hey guys, I came across a USA 442 and picked it up for a real nice price. Before I did, I wrote to US Amps and asked for some background on the amp. Someone named Jeff Coleman replied and gave me some info on the amp..... some power specs, production run, etc. But, he commented that the 442 had an interesting and complicated crossover and that if I couldn't get an original owner's manual that I should run an outboard crossover with the amp. Anybody got any comments? Advice? Experience with the amp? Thanks in advance.

The car is a Mercedes CLK55 2001, I have 2 amps 1 is 300 watts(150x2@4ohm), one is 1300 watts (1x1300@1ohm). For a total of 1600 watts. I have a Kinetik Power HC1800 as a second battery witch is to NOT let the lights dim if the system is under 1800 watts, unfortunately it does dim in the cabin and the amp for my front speakers sorta cuts out at loud volumes. once when i went from drive to reverse it didn't engauge and i had to put it in drive lower my system and put it in reverse, this has only happened once and i was beating really hard (i have not tried this again nor do i want to). I had a lexus 2002 ES300 before this and i did not have this problem, same setup. The 2n…

Hey everyone, I just got my o scope and decided to tune my system. First i did the door speakers since they are ran off the HU, and found I have a max volume of 31/50, all the sine waves looked good, went smooth as butter.... then i went to the sub amp, brz1200d, and i have the weirdest thing showing up on the scope. a picture will be below, or a link. i have eliminated the rca's, hu, and almost all factors with this. even with no signal going to it, and just the amp on, no rca's connected, no bass knob, and i still get a feedback.... please help me figure out why this is happening, i dont want to bump my sub till this is figured out.

I have 2 sets of re xxx 6.5 components ... i was thinking about going active but i do not know what the benefits would be and if it would be worth me spending the extra money for another amp ... would these speakers do well with an active setup? they are rated at 150 rms each (mid+twwet combined) ... how much power should i put to each mid and each tweeter? the ohm rating on the set is 2 ohm but will that change each speakers impedence?

I'm torn between the following choices in amplifiers... JL 300/2 Audison LRx 2.250 ARC Audio 2100CXL Linear Power 2.2hv PPI ART A600 I have been told that my Koda's will take full range..but that's just not floating my boat at this moment..probably cross them at 60ish..so Out with the LP and PPI... Someone either suggest something new..or help me make up my mind. The only difference with the other 3 is price. With my budget...the ARC and JL will have to be used, while I have a chance to get the Audison at a great price. Last real difference between the 3 is crossover ability...the JL has 12/24db selectable, while the Audison and ARC have only 12db. I guess the real ques…

I cant stand this chit anymore! OOppss can I swear in here? LOL Anyways Ive done everykind of search for the PPI car amps on all models. High and low through Google searches with rephrasing the words and the whole bit! For makin some bomb ass amps they suck with tellin you how to use the Dang Things!!! Well yeah I know they sold out and ya da ya da but CHHEEZZZ can I get a lil help people! Startin to get frustrated,mad,tired and ready 4 a new amp! Only had these PPI's for a lil over 4 months together but now I think I want a 1500W to 2000W Mono Amp or 2 channel. But I put in some time and efforts pickin up these PC 2150's and they are tight as hell. But I have this one …