Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

so i got: optima yellowtop under the hood kinetik hc2400 on the back iraggi 240/165 amp alternator it was running fine for about a week since i installed it, my voltages were: 14.2@idle, 13.4v w/ engine off this morning it was running fine too so when i was leaving this afternoon, i noticed the battery gauge was pretty low i checked the voltage and it was only 12.7 while the car is idling and system is off so i turned my car off and checked the voltage, it was 12.8 so i disconnected my powerwire that runs to the back battery and the amps after about half hour driving i checked the voltage, while idle it was 12.3 when it was off it was 12.5 what do you guys think? did my …

chit fudge chit driving home from school today, music playing next thing i know my truck starts randomly slowing down and my ABS light is blinking. THen i see my voltage meter is droping lower than usualy with the beat. I turn the system off and everything is good. Turn it back on and same problem. Im pretty sure my alternator just died on me. how this relates to the ABS randomly comming on i dont know. Glad my 4 year old battery had the life in her to get me home, Hopefully it can get me to the parts store to have my battery and alternator tested. If it is the alternator, while im paying $150 for a new stock replacemnt, i'll probably pay $100 more tops for a Hight Outpu…

anyone ever had experience with hifonics? i've heard a lot of trash talking and underrating, but still even if it's underrated, it would be only pushing around 1000 or so... that's still a good deal for only 180$ but if these amps just absolutely suck, is there any amp someone could suggest in the 250$ range that would produce about 1000 watts rms? thanks a lot

Just bought a northstar nsb agm 34 Opinions? Any experience? What am I to expect of it? Electrical: runs of 0 gauge 220 amp alt Big 3 Duralast gold under hood Kinetik hc600 as 2nd battery Pushing roughly 2400 watts rms The kinetik is being replaced by the Northstar. I typically drop down to around 10.5v with car driving and sub playing. Just curious if this should solve my problem and if anyone has experience with these batteries.

I drew out a little wiring diagram(yes i know it's crappy cause it's offa ms paint) for connecting RCA jacks off the HU for my planned system. In the front, the RE XXX woofer will be run off of a 2 channel amp and the tweets will be run off of two channels of the 4 channel amp. The rear midbass(Adire Koda 6.5) will be run off of the rear channel of the 4 channel amp. Crossover duty will be done by the HU(plan to get an Eclipse) and the 4 channel amp. Does that look right? or do i need something extra?

So i went a lil over budget when i ordered my sub so i need to go kind of cheap on amp. I have a 18" D2 Death Penalty on the way that is 2k rms. I have read through page after page of post on this and other forums but still need some help. i have narrowed it down to 6 brands which i am all sure would be fine but was wondering if you guys could help to which tends to be a more efficient brand. I will list them in the order i was debating purchase just to see if i was even close lol 1. Soundstream Rubicon series 2. Hifonics BRZ 3. Massive Audio N series 4. MB Quart RA 5. PPI BK 6. RE Audio Thanks! I am sure you guys get hit with questions like this all the time...was…

I cant do both. I have one Iraggi HO alt rated 160-200A @ idle, 220A peak should I add 1 more bigger alt to the AC bracket or add 2 more 100aH Oreilley AGMs, Intimidator knock offs

Got the sub and amp installed last night, and was noticing some dimming of the headlights driving around. I'm not really wanting to change out the alternator just yet due to warranty, but I'd like to upgrade the battery and hopefully that will resolve it. The amp is an Audioque 1200d running at 1ohm, so its making right around 1200w. Not really sure which route to go for a battery. Should I look in to an Optima or Interstate type battery, or go the route of an XS battery? It would be the main/only battery and used for daily use in both really warm and cold temps.

all right, the stereo i want has been out of stock for like 3 months now, and im starting to wonder if it will ever be back in stock. my questions is, i want a flip up screen stereo, what are good brands? and i want cheap ones. if i cant find a cheap one ill just wait. i found some jenson but i dont know if they are a good brand, also fahrenheit is cheap but ive never heard of them. unfortunately alpine doesnt have any, oh i need 3 preouts, front rear and sub.

i read the tutorial, but im having some trouble. im not getting anywhere near the voltage i should be with my dmm, and its NEGATIVE! of course im doing it wrong, but i need someone to talk me through it. could one of you pm me a phone number so i can call you? should only take a couple minutes, im sure its just something simple im messing up. would really appreciate it. thanks, Shaun

will i need to run a relay between my starting battery and a kinetik 600 in the trunk? if so, what size would be needed?

This seems like such a simple question, but I can't find the answer. What are the advantages and disadvantages between two different amps that put out the same out of power but at different resistances? Mainly looking for answers on a more technical level, like which will put less strain on my electrical system or which is thermally/mechanically better for the subwoofer. I have a Fi SSD 10, D2 and copper coil, and I'm looking for a 1000w amp to power it.

welp guys... I was lookin at the batcap 800 for my friends Integra Couple of reasons im considering this over a group 51 Yellow Top it has WAY MORE CCA Its lighter and it costs the same Also, its black, so it doesnt draw attention like a Yellow Top would Only problem i can see is RC, the stocker is 70m The Yellow top is 75m But Batcap doesnt list any sort of RC on the 800

So maybe some one here has done 2 alts can help me. just came back from my mechanics shop and was told that adding second alt would not work, i asked why and was told he could install but could not turn alt on, said i needed a wire harness to hook up to trucks computer. I thought the belt turned the alt on and i could wire to rear batt bank. Can anyone with this type of knowledge please help me out? (air con being swapped for stock alt to go with my Mechman 270a alt)

Could someone recommend a good amp for two SSA ICON 12's....please?

Quicktifier There is one user on here that uses this and i have searched and found no comparison to the before and after results of this device installed on a vehicle. Basically, it's main purpose is to make your alternator more efficient under load or stress. When the alt is getting hot, this will help to prevent loss of output as much. Whereas i've also been trying to find direct results of alt failure, #1 being directed to heat which in turn #1 part to fail is the Bridge rectifier. So... this is where i'm at right now. Time + Current = heat you can run hundreds or even thousands of amps for a couple seconds off a stock alternator as long as it doesnt heat up so fast i…

ANyone know any dealers or online distributors that are authorized that I can get in touch with? Their website doesn't have all the info I need. Thanks!

Hey everyone, I just got my o scope and decided to tune my system. First i did the door speakers since they are ran off the HU, and found I have a max volume of 31/50, all the sine waves looked good, went smooth as butter.... then i went to the sub amp, brz1200d, and i have the weirdest thing showing up on the scope. a picture will be below, or a link. i have eliminated the rca's, hu, and almost all factors with this. even with no signal going to it, and just the amp on, no rca's connected, no bass knob, and i still get a feedback.... please help me figure out why this is happening, i dont want to bump my sub till this is figured out.

Finally listened to you all and got a cheap charger at Walmart, 6A charge maintainer, microprocessor controlled, 72W 6amp fast charge 4A medium and 2amp slow 6V/12V automatic. Hooked it up and let it sit over night. In the AM the remote unlock didnt work so I knew it wasnt charged. Looked at the charger and it said full charge. I unplugged it and tried to start it, dead. Reconnected, put back to fast charge, it started...the fan revved higher and higher then shut off. I unplugged and reset, put on slow charge, fan stayed low reve so I left it for 2 hours. Came back, said full charge, but was dead. Gonna take the cheapie back today

I have this head unit and all my basic setting are here but I see in videos of the radio the settings for aux and stuff. My radio won’t let me connect bluetooth I can only listen to fm and cd’s Someone please help these are the only setting selection it’s allowing me

I have borrowed a tektronix TAS 475 four channel oscilloscope. It dosnt have the probes with it, i need to get them. And i want to use this to set my amplifier. So how do i make sure im testing my amp at 1 ohms? And what probes should i get? Any suggestions or tips for this would be extremly helpful. Im going to be testing a ppi bk1300.1d

ok so im going to be using the Fi BTL 12" sub D2 in a 2.5 cu ft box ported to 34 hz. in the trunk of a chevy cavalier. i want to run in DB Drag so the power needs to be there when the car is off. so it will be at around 12-12.5 volts. the battery will be a Kinetic HC 2000 so my decision comes down to this. a brand new AQ3500 for 550$ or a refurbished SAZ-3000 with new heat sink and B-stock (not sure what that is) for 575$. i would like to know the pro and cons of each one. i know one uses a fan for cooling and one doesnt. is there an advantage to this? which one is more efficient at 1 ohm? which one will output more power at 12 volts? or any more things i should now a…

I'm torn between the following choices in amplifiers... JL 300/2 Audison LRx 2.250 ARC Audio 2100CXL Linear Power 2.2hv PPI ART A600 I have been told that my Koda's will take full range..but that's just not floating my boat at this moment..probably cross them at 60ish..so Out with the LP and PPI... Someone either suggest something new..or help me make up my mind. The only difference with the other 3 is price. With my budget...the ARC and JL will have to be used, while I have a chance to get the Audison at a great price. Last real difference between the 3 is crossover ability...the JL has 12/24db selectable, while the Audison and ARC have only 12db. I guess the real ques…

Alright guys so this is my first "big" system. I have 2 soundqubed hdc3 15 d2's in a 10 ish cu ft box tuned to 32 hz. I have 2 soundqubed q1-2200 amps. I plan on strapping them. My mids and highs I got on lock so they're not important. I have a 180 amp ho alt by singer alternators. This is the absolute biggest he could make it. 1 xs d5100r under the hood and 2 xs xp3000's in the back. Nothing is installed yet I'm waiting for all my install accessories. Do you think I have enough batteries and is my alternator sufficient enough to handle 500 amps of max current? I'm waiting on my xs charger to come in to install everything because I need to fully charge my batteries. Also…

so when i put my latest head unit into my car, i left a cd in my old unit, and i have been trying to get it out. i have a power supply that i plan to hook up to it, but i can't figure out where to hook my wires up to, so i need a diagram to find out where to hook my positive and negative leads....any one know where i can get a diagram? the unit is a Clarion ProAudio DRX6375. i googled and eBay'd and all i found was a picture of the diagram but the seller on eBay made it microscopic because he only wanted buyers looking at it.