Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Topics is pretty self explanatory, i was considering brands like -Kicker -RF -Hifonics Question is what model i would need and how much RMS power to push this Sub??? all suggestions appreciated thanks

I have a 5500watt amp that is 70% efficient which makes 3850watts to use. I have a 250amp alternator and my car uses up 27amps of that alternator so i have 223 amps from my alternator. i have replaced my BIG 3 with 0 gauge, and will have my system (an 18" Fi BTL dual 2) ran with 0ga and the speaker wire in 10ga. If i worked everything out correctly using 13v i should be looking for a 31ah battery but i know that i want to go much higher to run off of my battery and not my alt. What do i look for in a battery? and if possible what kind would you all recommend? should i use more then one?

Sorry for the this vs. that shit but I would like to know if there is any/much difference between these two products. I'm in the market for 2 new batteries and these 2 brands are fairly similar in price and within my budget. I'm wondering if one or the other is superior, I know Kinetik makes a good, quality product but have no experience with Shuriken whatsoever. If anyone has experience with both or just perhaps knows something about them and could shed a little light here, I would greatly appreciate it. I'm also opening a poll here so if you could vote AND give a short explanation WHY you voted for whichever brand that would also be helpful. This is also for similarly …

Im getting a 12" FI Q with the cooling package. It will be put into a 2.5 cu ft. box tuned to 31-33hz (cant deside yet). But I really want to know a good amp to power it with that will not kill my wallet or my electrical in my car. Iv got stock alt and bat with a big 3 upgrade and a 5 farad cap. Also I DO NOT plan on running at 1 ohm b/c i want good SQ. Any input is greatly appreciated! Thanks

well i was examining my alternator today, and this is the one im gonna send in for exessive amperage to mod. the area circled in red is the place where the wiring harnesses goes to connect to everywhere and it doesnt look like i can run 1/0 gauge, and if i keep the stock wire, for sure it will catch fire. Comments, ideas?

i was wondering since you guys have a bit of experiance, but i have a ford windstar 1996 with a Alpine 9816, was was wondering should i upgrade? cause the am getting attracted to the NEW sony's with Tilt and the Kenwoods with Tilt. would it matter if i changed? make a difference in quality or sound? if so any recommendations on a good HU with tilt.

I have 1 fully loaded 15 inch FI BTL A 5 Cubic Ft box tuned at 31 htz 0 Gauge Wiring All i need to make it complete is the AMP. I was real close to getting a HIFONICS but a lot of people are saying they are overrated Sundown audio is a little out of my price range as i only have around 500 Dollars. Could someone please steer me in the right direction. Thanks-Blake

Alright so I am wondering which amp would be better for my setup. The SAZ 1000 or SAE 1200 hooked up to a BL 15 wired at 1 ohm? I know the SAZ is more of a performance amp and the SAE is more commercial I guess. But which one would power the BL better and not cause me to worry about blowing my sub or frying my amp?

could anyone help me with what electrical upgrades i have to make to my stock mustang to run these? and if i need extra batteries in the trunk, how do i hook those up? to anyone that can help me with this, thank you.

I have been talking on here for some time now trying to figure out how to beef up my electrical enough to withstand a SAZ-3500D (or maybe I should just go with the AQ-2200D? for a single 18" Fi BTL) and a SAX-50.4. Now I have been looking more and more on other forums because I have pretty much read most of the posts here that are relevant. But It seems I am having conflicting ideas. For one, people on other forums say capacitors are the best thing ever. Get one 1.5-2x the rms load of your sub(s) and you will save yourself money because you wont have to buy a new alt or stock up a battery farm. Now I read on here that people thin capacitors are junk, why? I just want the …

Looking towards buying a new amplifier for my Fi BTL N2 sometime this summer and looking at my options. I can obviously do as much research on my own as possible but numbers are just numbers, Id like to ask people who have experience with these amplifiers and your opinions on what I should get. I have around 4 different amplifiers that Im currently looking at, all around the same prices. Dont really want to spend over $700 and will buy used if need be. 1. Sundown SAZ-2500D (used) or SAZ-3500D (Refurbished) 2. DD M3a (new) 3. Orion 2500D (Found one locally used) 4. Crescendo BC3500D (new) Any input much appreciated and also FYI, Im running a stock battery upfront, big 3…

I am planning my first real DIY build and have some questions regarding the wiring... Before I ask, here is my planned setup: Power/Wiring -Stock Battery -Stock Alternator -Big 3 upgrade to all 1/0 gauge wires -300A Fuse -12 gauge speaker wires for the subs Sub/Amp -Fi SSD 15" wired at 1ohm -Audioque AQ1200D (1200rms@1ohm) (40A x3 fuses, 120A total) (4 gauge connectors) 1) Will doing the big 3 upgrade be sufficient enough for my battery and alternator for this system? If not, what else should I look in to? 2) Should I hook up the amp w/ 4 gauge wiring or use 1/0? I would prefer to use 1/0 but the connectors are 4, is there a solution to this? Is 4 gauge sufficient for th…

I currently have a Eclipse cd8445 and I do love it. The problem is that when I had previous setup in the track selection button would "oscillate" during long periods of bass causing it to skip or change tracks at times. I figure that this setup will be significantly louder than the last one so I'm looking around for something different. I'd like something that has mainly the same features as my 8445. But also has a very broad subwoofer control range (ex. My 8445 went from -6 to 6. I'm looking for something slightly larger). I did kinda like the fact that the 8445 has an 8v preouts. But that really doesn't mean too much. Any comments or suggestions will be appreciated.

I have spent most of yesterday checking connections and redoing them. Before that the only thing I did was actually put a crimp on the main remote line running to the amps as to how I had them before just twisted together and taped. before the crimp I rarely got that THUD sound and now it happens every time I take key out of ignition without turning off radio first. Heres what I have kenwood HU running to, clarion EQ, from there to one Rockford P1000-1bd and a P400-4 I guess I'm being lazy and should just undo that crimp but I think that crimp is stronger than just twisting line together, could I be wrong? could I have done the crimp wrong?

what the rms of the aq1200d

I have a small Merlin us amp for my mids in my s10 pick up. Whenever I listen to the radio for even less then 5 minutes when my truck is not started it completely drains the battery to the point where it has to be jumped. I had purchased a new battery and still have the same problem, so I had the battery and altenator tested and they are fine. Nothing else drains the battery except listening to the radio for a very short period of time. What could be the problem, any suggestions? Please help

i am looking for a new h/u.... ive been looking around for one with what i want and in my price range but just cant find one... any suggestions i am looking for a single DIN either 6.5" or 7" motorized unit with usb... in around the $500 price range

will i need to run a relay between my starting battery and a kinetik 600 in the trunk? if so, what size would be needed?

I just went and bought a Digital Multimeter because I will be getting a stinger voltmeter soon.. plus I just needed one, and well.. I have no idea how to use it!!! I tried my best and got a spark and some awfully hot wire thingys... ouch. First off there are 2 different red plugs and 1 black plug slots at the bottom of the dmm.. I wasn't sure how to know which red one to plug into, and obv. the black went into the only black slot. After that i went over to DCv and scrolled the wheel over to 20.. I assumed you go higher than the voltage you are going to read.. which for cars is around 12v.. Then I stuck my red probe onto my + on my amp and black onto my - on amp.. and.. s…

Ok, yesterday, I rearranged some things behind my head unit, which was working fine. I put everything back and the HU was working fine. After putting my dash back together I was planning on going to my friends apartment, but when I go to turn on the headlights a fuse blows and my dash lights cut out. I try replacing the fuse and when it blows again I check a few things and say screw it and go inside. CD player still works fine. Today I test things out better. I figured out that when the HU was not wired up the problem does not exist. When I plug the HU back in the fuse blows and such. As a matther of fact the voltage at the battery (all wires still connected) I get 56volt…

Hey all. I have a Saz2500D and an excessive amperage 225 amp alt. Big 3. Autocrat gold batt up front. Anyways, my voltage runs off all over the place (it will drop down 2 volts and sometimes spike up to 16V!!!). Sometimes those spikes will even cause my radio to turn off for a second. Do you think adding a yellowtop or something similar in the back near the sub amp will help voltage drop and these irregularities? Resting voltage is 14.9V. Maximum drops are high 12's. Thanks

I am (hopefully) about to order an upgraded alt for my car soon. I have 2 200A solenoids in the car and I need to make sure they are wired correctly before i take a chance in the alternator burning them up. EVERY COMPANY i have talked to has told me to wire them the same way but i do not believe them as it doesn't sound right so i want your guys opinion. Here is a pic of them- The top option- this is the way the companies want me to wire them, main wire from batt coming in, running of relay one to input of relay 2 then out of it to battery bank... Wouldnt that just switch 200A into another relay to only support 200A of current??? Option 2, the bottom one is what i am …

I just bought a sundown saz 2500d...I was wondering which battery should i buy. i'm looking at a yellow top or a XS Power D2400. I don't have money to buy 2 at this time but i do plan on buying another one of which ever i buy to put in the back. Thanks guys

Ok so I'm planning on getting a SAZ-1000D amp and I just wanted to know if I'm going to need a new battery or new alternator. I think the alternator in the 2007 Jetta is a 140 amp alt. I did some calculations and I think that is more than enough but I don't know shit (the true :'( ). If I don't I was thinking about getting a XS 5200 ( I think that's the battery) And will I need to upgrade my big 3?

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