Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Do they make a complete dead heads? Like without any processing, internal amp. Basically a volume knob and a line out? Prices?

I tried searching but search feature doesn't really like small words like Big 3. I've seen it a lot where people say you can leave the stock alternator/ground cables connected, but does disconnecting them have any effect? I ask because I would rather just cap the stock cables off for a cleaner install.

So i am still confused on head units.... So I called the local shop where i want to get my car audio equipment installed at, due to their reviews and prices for installation. But the dude on the phone just told me some concerning things... makes me rethink even going there to get the installation done. Or maybe he is right? He says he has been doing this stuff for many years. I told the guy i wanted to get 2 front component speakers installed, a new head unit, and an amplifier for the speakers. The amp will be 4 channels, to allow for upgrade of 2 more rear coaxial speakers later. And the head unit will be one with 3 outputs, front, rear, and subwoofer. The guy …

Just wondering how many of you guys actually use these things..

I have a 2006 Dodge Ram 1500 with the 4.7L engine. I am going to be installing a rather large system, and I am having no luck finding a go replacement alt. I will do either a new replacement or if i can find a shop in the Houston area i dont mind upgrading my current alternator. Any help would be great

I have a 4 groove belt on my lancer and I've been told buy a HO Alt dealer that If I chose a 200 amp unit I would experience belt slip. Does anyone here have a 200 amp alt or higher on a 4 groove belt? If so, does the belt slip on you? I was informed that 150 amp unit would work fine. My stock alt is 85 amperes. I'll be running a Sundown 2000D plus a component amp (undecided which one). Would 150 amp unit and a PowerMaster D3100 + front battery be sufficient power for me?

i know the older soundstream stuff was good, but I know nothing about the edge series or picasso series class D amps. i figure they put out rated power, but are they still considered quality? I need a 1ohm stable amp, and soundstream has some good prices on ebay...

I found two mmats for sale on cl in my area guy wants 700.00 for them they are 1400.1 @1ohm. looked them up online really couldnt find any reviews on them. was woundering if anyone had any insight on these amps. Are the under rated, the reason i ask is i have two fi d2 fwfl bl 15s. would these be good amps to push these subs i figure to run one one each. Any help would be great. thanks doogie

Anyone?

Looking for a parametric half din eq that has adjustable q. I've seen a couple that allow you to adjust the q for the subwoofer center freq, but I have yet to find one that will for your other freq's. Is this an option only available in a full size trunk mount type eq?

I have a unit I bought a couple years ago that I'm going to try and do a warranty exchange on. I think I paid a little over $200 for it. I could add another $200 on top of that, so $400 total. What does BB sell that is actually good? High voltage outputs (at least 4v) and ipod connection are extremely important.

I seen manufactured published specs on an amp and was curious on something to see if this is common among all amps or just this particular one. They listed the current draw for voltage tested and output power so calculating efficiency was easy. Here is what it shows at a 1 ohm load- 14.4v- 78% 16v- 77% 18v- 71% Is this normal performance among 18v amps?

Does the SPL FX1-4000D amp do rated power? Or does anyone have experience with it?

I was told the only time I need to worry about getting a better grade RCA wire is if its for mids and highs. Is that true? Im about to order RCAs for my sundown 1200 and just want to make sure I dont get too cheap of an RCA if I need something better than basic

I have spent most of yesterday checking connections and redoing them. Before that the only thing I did was actually put a crimp on the main remote line running to the amps as to how I had them before just twisted together and taped. before the crimp I rarely got that THUD sound and now it happens every time I take key out of ignition without turning off radio first. Heres what I have kenwood HU running to, clarion EQ, from there to one Rockford P1000-1bd and a P400-4 I guess I'm being lazy and should just undo that crimp but I think that crimp is stronger than just twisting line together, could I be wrong? could I have done the crimp wrong?

Im getting Alpine Type‑R SPR‑60C 2‑way Speakers. rated at 4 ohms Going to be using an amplifier that can output at least 100 RMS each channel. up to around 125 RMS per channel. My car is a 2013 hyundai elantra coupe. I tried asking dealership if they knew the gauge of the factory speaker wire. or how to figure it out, in some manual or booklet. they said theres really no way to know, unless u measure or look at the wire itself. I tried looked at youtube videos or other sources online and couldnt find anything specifying the gauge of the factory speaker wire. Im assuming its between 18-22 gauge wire? I heard that something such as 20 gauge wir…

I was going through Incriminator Audio's site, and checked out their amplifiers. I noticed that they look awfully similar to the Sundown amps. Just wondering if Sundown makes Incriminator's amps. Tried searching and didn't come up with anything.

It states 1300 @ 2ohms at 14.4v. I currently have an MD2D on my RL-p 18" @ 2 ohms, but it's only getting around 800 rms. I was thinking of swapping them out, but i'm not to sure on the rated power for the Infinity.

Let's say I'm running the Sundown 1000 watt amp with 2 gauge power/ground wire and an 80amp fuse near the battery powering a 12" Fi Q. If I want to change my sub to a 8" Soundsplinter RL-i, and replace the Sundown with a P.G. 400 Watt amp, does the 2 guage wire need to be changed? If not, then does the fuse need to be changed? BTW: I don't have those amps or subs. My main question was the wire question. I realize the Sundown would actually be good for a dual 4 ohm RLi-8. But let's forget all that.

First, a little about my setup. I want to run a 4 channel amp on my front stage, a two channel on rear fill, and 2 sub amps. This means I need 4 sets of preamp outs right? One set for front tweets, one set for front mids, one set for rear full range, and one set for sub amps. I want to be able to cross over the front mids and tweets at different points, in case I change components. I feel it sounds better if this is done at the HU so the amplifier can concentrate power only on desired frequencys. I will only use the preamps, so internal amp isn't necessary, infact I'd prefer NO internal amplifier. Only need CD capability, no MP3, no DVD. Some sort of time alignment. …

I know I need to fuse b/t front battery & 2 back batts. What size fuse should I have? Also, should I fuse anywhere else?

I drew out a little wiring diagram(yes i know it's crappy cause it's offa ms paint) for connecting RCA jacks off the HU for my planned system. In the front, the RE XXX woofer will be run off of a 2 channel amp and the tweets will be run off of two channels of the 4 channel amp. The rear midbass(Adire Koda 6.5) will be run off of the rear channel of the 4 channel amp. Crossover duty will be done by the HU(plan to get an Eclipse) and the 4 channel amp. Does that look right? or do i need something extra?

http://dayton.craigslist.org/ele/4406258714.html anyone ever ran one or had any experience with one?

so i sent my money to dominick irraggi for a custom hand made alternator, and havent heard back from him since. havent gotten an email, and he will not answer my calls. i have left a message, but when i tried to leave another one i got a message saying his voice mail was full. USPS confirmed that he recieved the money order on the 11th, and that was a full week ago that i have waited and not heard anything from him. can anyone help me out here, i dont wanna start pointing any fingers, but a full week when i havent heard from him and dont have an alternator yet he is holding $500 of mine isnt exactly letting me sleep easy at night. anyone else on this forum dealt with him…

4 years ago or so I got a SWEET deal on 6 Optima Red Tops. I can't find the guy and I don't remember what company he's from. Ring any bells for anyone? Anyway most people don't run Optima, why not? I'm assuming because more hours of sotrage can be had for less? I like the idea of dry/gel cells so that I can mount them any way I want inside the vehicle and no hydrogen gas released from charging. Anyone know if this guy is still around? What other options should I consider? Thanks! Krypto