Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Has anybody seen this Hu, it's bad ass! And if so does anybody know if this will be available in the US. Thanks

What happened: was running pioneer avic d3 with backup camera...one day backup camera started not working at random times and I wanted Bluetooth radio so I replaced head unit with pioneer mvh-300ex. Since doing so my head unit does not turn off with ignition (or door open+Truck off) The Wiring: I’ve checked the obvious and my HU power is correctly hooked up to red wires and the yellows are correctly hooked up as well. Any ideas on how to fix this?

Ive been lookin around and not finding much of what im looking for. Im going to need one of those volt meters like the infamous "stinger" one everybody seems to have.. problem is that thing is ugly as can be and too flashy for me.. the whole big bright stinger thing isnt for me. I would prefer a small, simple voltage meter i can mount anywhere i choose. If someone can point me in the right direction i would really appreciate it. thanks

Last weekend I hooked up a Rockford fosgate p400-4 to my jvc kd-r810 and everything was fine untill today. I went to a friends house and it worked fine but on my way back home the sound would just cut in and out when I turned the volume past 10... At first I thought it was my iPod cable but it does the same thing when I play CDs too. Any ideas as to why this is happening?

I have a AQ2200.1D amp at 1 ohm with my 12" ascendant mayhem, it pounds off stock battery bit I hit the clipping light at around 20 on my alpine cde-hd137bt. I do have a 270 amp HO alt and big three and my lights dim sometimes but I'm wondering what all batteries do I all need to make it bump harder, louder and deeper, and make my stiff rear view mirror fall off?

i have a orion 2500d and it has an intelli W with HPF on it what is it and is it important

I currently have a 2010 Fi Q12 in a sealed box powered off of a JL 500/1v2. It sounds great, but I want to unleash the sub's full potential by giving it all of it's 1000rms rating. I plan on putting in a high output alternator, so suppling power isn't an issue. The sub is dual 2 ohm, so I can wire it to either 1 or 4 ohm. My question is: Is there a noticeable difference in sound quality if I push an amp at 1 ohm (if stable) vs 4 ohm? The reason I ask is because I was looking at Rockford Fosgate Power amps and the T1000 Constant Power was stable at 1 ohm to 1000rms, while the T1500 Constant Power was capable of 1000rms at 4 ohm. While money isn't a big concern I woul…

Alrighty! So after installing a cd player in my girlfriend's car some of the dash lights dont turn on. The door open, brights, blinker, etc. (square lights for some warning or another) all work, but not the lights that light up the speedo, tach, or temp. gauge. I had the - terminal disconnected while doing all this wiring, BUT i may have effed up when i tied two wires into one. Reason for doing that was the wiring diagram i was looking at said that they both were for illumination, so i figured they both needed to be plugged in to the CD player's illumination light. Would this have caused hell for my wiring? I've checked the fuses and changed the only one that was blown,…

Soon i should be running 2 saz1000d's strapped for 1800 at 2ohms in my isuzu rodeo(60 amp alt) big 3 done in 1/0. I have both amps already and i also have one stinger spv44. I will be buying another batt soon, probably a deka intimidator 9a31. Now my question is, which one should i use as the starting batt and which as the batt in the back? im not sure what i should do. I wont have a h/o alt for another couple months also. I know thats probably not enough to run the amps at full power, but i will keep the gains low until i get a h/o alt. thanks for any input! -Max

Say you have 1 amp with or without an internal crossover that you intend to use for a set of components with an external passive crossover. Is it necessary to utliize the amp internal crossover or another external crossover in addition to the component crossover? OR is it enough to filter out the low frequencies with only the passive component crossover? Thanks for input

anyone know of a place that can fix an internal amp on a HU for less than 120 bux.. the place here says 40bux but there labor charge is 80 bux off top <_< .... i talked to david from RE a while ago about it and he said he had a friend that could do it for like 70 + shipp, but he hasn't been on aim lately..

Anyone know if they under rate the 1200 watts at 1ohm ? Noticed no CEA-2006 compliance sticker on website so curious to peoples experiance. Would anyone consider NVX JAD1200.1 as a replacement ? http://www.nvx.com/amplifiers-1/jad12001.html CEA-2006 compliant and interesting promises/stats. http://www.soundqubed.com/Q1-1200D-Amplifier_p_30.html Awesome reviews and recommended. Both same price ish. Thnx

I was going to get the alpine 9886, but I came across the amazing deal for boxing day, Amazing Deal on HU Has anyone had any experience from this particular HU? I havent come across 1 negative review on any site, other than Pioneer's grounding issue, im not to worried about that.

I realize there will be hate to follow, but whatever it's no big. I'm very happy with it.

My pioneer 6100BT has a feature called ASR (advanced sound retriever) and i am assumeing all the newer pionner HU will have this feature also will tell you what ASR actully means and does.When i turn on the ASR feature on my HU, it makes the sound/bass in my car louder but more clear like it is supposed to do. so my question to you guys is, Would ASR act like loud/loudness feature on HU? witch you are supposed to have set to off

I just installed the digital knukonceptz distribution block and connected a line for the ground so the digital display can work. My question is how long should the display stay on? Its been about 15min and its still on.

Ive been searching around for a new headunit for while now. I've narrowed it down to either an alpine cda 105 or kenwood kdc-x494. I've had alpine before and never had any issues. Never owned a kenwood hu before and the only complaints I'm seeing are that they are complicated. And only difference I'm seeing between the two is preout voltage and where the usb is. Which one would you guys recommend and why? Open to other suggestions, except pioneer(bad experiences) and I'd like to keep it around $150.

So I have a Bad Deka Intimidator which Looks brand new but won't take a charge or go any higher than aprox 4v, what could I do if anything.. OR are there any places that will fix batteries if you can lol.

Ok i'll start with the part, its broken, i don't know the proper name for it or where to find a replacement, clue me in. http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y50/vladd...-10-06_1852.jpg I know its hard to tell but basically is an 8pin ribbon connector, a couple of the wires are broken, i could solder them if i had superman vision and nerves of steel, but i don't now for anyone else that may be having this problem...the rear screen on my pioneer 960 went out, thats it, i got pissed, figured what the hell, take it apart and fix it mr mullins, or make a nice paperweight

Since my local Facebook page I follow won't answer my question, I'll come here. I've blown 3 fuses in the past two days with my crappy amp wire kit. I kept putting off getting a good set of wire because I'm lazy and didn't want to spend money. However, I've decided that I can't put it off any longer. I have a few questions about what I should get. Definitely getting Sky High Car Audio because that's what I've seen work best from friends. I have a Cobalt CB3200 amp powering two RE SXX V2 15's (Also keep in mind I will be upgrading amps when money comes along, so I would rather prepare for that now so I don't have to buy twice the wire). I plan on doing the big 3 since…

well first i have a 1200 watts concept amp. i have a 2 gauge wiring to run but i am afried that it is too large for the entrence of the amp? would 4 gauge be enough? or just try my best to get the 2 gauge in?

I'm looking for a 2000 watt amp to run my Sundown Z15's. Since only d2's were left I'll be running a 2 ohm load. I'm looking to spend under $500 and so far the only amp I'm finding to fit what I'm looking for is the Alpine MRP-2000. I've considered spending a little more and getting a 1 ohm stable amp but run it at 2 ohm in case I decide to upgrade, although at this point I really don't intend to since I have other hobbies that I'd rather waste my money on. Any other suggestions/feedback on Alpine amps? I'm not up to speed with Alpine since the only thing I own from Alpine is an early 90's model. Also, any other brands I should be looking into? Thanks for looking.

Ok so when its warm out my amp turns on just fine... Now that its been cold out my amp doesnt turn on.. No prot. Light. No lights at all.. The HU remote wire is reading less than 1 volt... I hooked up the remote wire to the red wire on the cd player... The amp turned on but it was making weird noises when I turned the car off.... Is the remote wire on the HU goin out?

anyone have experience with these? I was thinking about getting a 400.2 or 500.2 to power to power my front stage(once i can decide on a set) because they look like they have a lot of features for the money. Anyone know anything about these amps?

So I've had my BC2000D for about two weeks. I've only had it running on 4 ohms for 3-4 days and then 2 ohms for the other two weeks or so ive had it. It's been playing mint and today i was just driving around, had my music playing at about 10/62 for half an hour and then i decided to turn it up a little bit. I had it around 20/62 and then my subs just cut out. I went to look at the amp cause its in the back seat and they go back on, they went back off again and then just stopped coming on at all. No protection light and they still have power. I was even playing them earlier this day for almost an hour at near full tilt. I've checked everything fifteen times, the ground i…