Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I'm looking to do the big 3 on my 98 expedition. I was looking at the wiring from alt to batt and there are 2 runs of wire. Both are fused. Either 150 or 175 amp fuses. Am I alright to run wire straight from the amp to the battery? Or should I replace wire from alt to the fuses then fuses to batt? I'd rather leave stock wiring there and then run a 4 or 0ga run straight over. Of course I'd just do the 2 grounds chassis to block, block to batt. Any have experience with a late 90s ford?

So i believe my headunit can go up to number 35 for volume. When playing music, around 12 is pretty decent loudness, but up to around 16 is pretty loud. and i dont think i would ever turn it above 20. when there is no music playing, my speakers hiss quite loud. the same volume of hiss can be heard when the headunit volume is set from 1 to around 10. any volume above 10 on the headunit, then the speakers his increases with each volume increase. i dont really notice the hiss when theres music playing. just wondering, is this normal? is it a bad sign? how might i go about fixing it?

What can happen if to many things are hooked to one remote wire? . . . Every once and a while my amps will shut off like there protecting and sometimes the cd player will shut off but volts will be in the low 13s . Could this happen from alot of things hooked to one remote? . I have both sub amps. My 4 chan amp. An eq and both volt meters all from one remote

So I finally got my 200a alt installed, but something odd happened when bumping now, I get more dimming, occasionally the amp protects for a moment then cut back on, but my battery voltage is on average higher. I was wondering if the former was due to me having only done the big two, as I have direct power and ground lines; the other, I mean, I think I had it gained a little high and now that it has what it needs, it's clipping like crazy trying to balance with the Sony signal. The hu is becoming a massive headache in that aspect. I lowered the gain, but I really want to be able to run my heat lights and stereo without issue =[ I do have only a single battery for now, I'…

Is changing passive crossover same as changing headunit EQ? like i have a 9 band parametric EQ on my alpine 164-bt. and i have alpine spr 60c component speakers. the highs are very harsh. and im debating attempting to mess with my doors to edit the crossover. i have absolutely no clue what im doing with it. and dont want to risk much. i cannot find any videos for the year my car is. i have 2013 hyundai elantra coupe. only video i saw was for a 2005 elantra, 4 door. mine is a 2 door also and many years later. and about the passive crossover. i cant find any pictures only or guides on how to change and edit the crossover? what exactly is an EQ changing…

Installed a self exciting high output alternator worked fine once installed but once the car sits over night if the temperature drops below 30 degrees the next morning when I start the car I'm not charging, voltage is at 12.3 I have rev up to 3k still it takes probably 20 seconds or more before my voltage goes up to 15.1... on warm days and nights never an issue. .what could be causing this?

I ordered a hifonics zeus 1800w amp. The spec sheet online says it uses 4ga inputs. I feel like 4ga is rather small for an 1800w amp. I know I can get wire reducers, but could I just run 2 fuse holders, and on the rear at the amp go down from 0ga to 4ga? Or should I just run 1 fuse, and solid 1/0 run to a reducer?

Pioneer GM-D8604 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_63974_Pioneer-GM-D8604.html its $140. class d RMS Power @ 4 ohms 100 watts x 4 channels its around $100 cheaper than the next comparable amplifier that has RMS listed and is a decent name brand? Im aware that its class D so, thats part of why its cheaper. But other than that, im worried its bad for some reason because of how cheap it is?

Im getting Alpine Type‑R SPR‑60C 2‑way Speakers. rated at 4 ohms Going to be using an amplifier that can output at least 100 RMS each channel. up to around 125 RMS per channel. My car is a 2013 hyundai elantra coupe. I tried asking dealership if they knew the gauge of the factory speaker wire. or how to figure it out, in some manual or booklet. they said theres really no way to know, unless u measure or look at the wire itself. I tried looked at youtube videos or other sources online and couldnt find anything specifying the gauge of the factory speaker wire. Im assuming its between 18-22 gauge wire? I heard that something such as 20 gauge wir…

So i am still confused on head units.... So I called the local shop where i want to get my car audio equipment installed at, due to their reviews and prices for installation. But the dude on the phone just told me some concerning things... makes me rethink even going there to get the installation done. Or maybe he is right? He says he has been doing this stuff for many years. I told the guy i wanted to get 2 front component speakers installed, a new head unit, and an amplifier for the speakers. The amp will be 4 channels, to allow for upgrade of 2 more rear coaxial speakers later. And the head unit will be one with 3 outputs, front, rear, and subwoofer. The guy …

The amp wiring kit is :NVX XKIT84 (100% Copper, 4-Channel True Spec 8 Gauge Amplifier Installation Kit w/ RCA Interconnect and 65 ft Speaker Cable) http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_66498_NVX-XKIT84.html This is the amp it will be used with : Hifonics Zeus ZRX1000.4 - 1000W 4-Channel Class A/B Zeus Series Car Amplifier http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_44492_Hifonics-Zeus-ZRX1000.4.html Just wondering if that is a good decision? It also comes with speaker wires. Edit: i just read that a 4 gauge amp wire might be better? but is it needed for this? or should this 8 gauge wire be fine? Also the speaker wire it come…

If i get a head unit with 3 RCA outputs, front, rear, and subwoofer. can i use a 4 channel amp to power 2 front speakers, and the bridge the other 2 channels to power one subwoofer? this amp : http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_44492_Hifonics-Zeus-ZRX1000.4.html and these speakers : http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_34364_Alpine-SPR-60C.html the amp says says: 4-Channel Class A/B Zeus Series Car Amplifier Max Power Rating: 4 ohms: 125 watts x 4 chan. 2 ohms: 250 watts x 4 chan. Bridged, 4 ohm: 500 watts x 2 chan. the speakers say: RMS Power Handling 110 watts (each speaker) Sensitivit…

Hey guys, I have an 03 BUICK CENTURY v6. I recently put in a 12 in SSA GCON . Built a custom box 2.25 net @33 hz slot ported. Ran all ofc knuconcepts 4 gauge. Monster rca's . Active loc and factory head unit. Amp is a Rockford prime 750.1 running at 1ohm into the GCON... Now u know what I got, well last nite I got her all hooked up, went to test her out, and every time my bass hits my headlights blink with the bass! I hate cars with systems that do that... Can anyone tell me why?? I was told I would be fine running factory elec with 750 watts? Even less actually because I barely had the gain up cuz my GCON is brand new! Even at low-moderate volume it is doing it..…

Ok so im anticipating the arrival of my SP4 18" and i figured i get everything sorted out for when it arrives... My car is currently running the big 3 with 0gauge wire, 2 1000ca batteries, and factory 120amp alt. The amp im using is a hifonics zeus 3216 (3200@1ohm) and will be temporary until i can get a better amp. Will my electrical be good enough? Do i need to upgrade alt for 3k watts? Or can i just upgrade to 2 xs d3100s? Also what amps would u suggest that could give the sp4 the power it needs to do its job? Ive looked into the crescendo 3.5, dc audio 3.5,and soundqubed 4.5, any other suggestions and recommendations? ?

I got the wiring already so would a 2nd run benefit me? I'm running a 240a alt, xs power d3400 up front, big 3 and 2 kitneik hc2400s in the back. Soundqubed 4500. I just hear many different things and not sure if it would be worth my time. Thanks guys

This is my first time messing with the GM Data system as my older tahoe didn't have it. I don't care about keeping satellite radio, onstar, or the bose system. I DO want to retain warning chimes, retained accessory power, and steering wheel controls. I'm installing aftermarket head unit, amps, etc. I am looking at either the PAC RP3-GM11 and PAC SWI-RC(~$120), or Metra BX-GM1 and Metra ASWC-1(~$90). Of course saving money is nice, but I don't want to have any integration issues. Just hoping someone has used one or the other, or both, and knows if there are any known issues. Edit: I suppose I should mention I am working on a 2005 silverado.

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_158RSXGS9/Sony-RSX-GS9.html?tp=5684&awkw=165291222025&awat=pla&awnw=g&awcr=86915005825&awdv=m Pretty ballzy ..buy a $1500 price tag http://republicaradio.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/sony_RSX-GS9_sp__1.jpg

I have a pioneer avh 165dvd head unit which shows amp error. I'm not using speaker connection from head unit.

Is there an agm battery that is under 7 inches tall that has the top threaded posts ? Need it for under the hood of my caravan

Does it matter to have multiple runs from alt to batt in the big 3 since its a short run when having multiple runs from front to back?

I purchased a used Kicker ZX 750.1 for really cheap that was advertised as working condition but only after the engine is turned on. I figured this problem had to be unique to to the previous owner's car but it isn't. I tested this thing in two vehicles and it turns on with the ignition but only amplifies a signal after the vehicle itself has been turned on. Furthermore, if the car is turned off without completely turning the key it will continue to work as expected. I'm here to see if anybody knows anything about this. If it's a super cheap/easy fix I'm all over it, but more than that I'm just curious as to what's up. Besides this, the amp works exactly as it should…

I have a yellow top under the hood with the big 3 done in stinger 1/0 an a run of stinger 1/0 to the rear batts. One is a kinetik hc 1400 to a hc 1200 so 2600 total. Wired to two kicker zx1000.1 my question is the one single run of stinger 1/0 to the rear OK? It's ofc .

I currently have the IA 10.1 amp and a 15 inch Death Penalty with dual two ohm coils. I was worried about my electrical so I ordered a 1200w amp to be safe. My stock electrical holds at 15.2v at full tilt. It spikes down to 14.9 but quickly recovers due to the smart alternator, which is rated at 150 amps. The subwoofer definitely can handle more power. So my options would be to buy another 10.1 and strap them at 1 ohm or sell the 10.1 and buy a larger amp, DC audio 2K, or buy two other amps and strap them at 1 which would look good. Don't want to spend too much but I know another 10.1 is 400.

Anyone?

Just seen these Tenergy LiFePO4 SLA Style Battery 12.8V 20Ah at parts express by my house and wondering if they would be any good for car audio. Iv been seeing people using the juicebox lithium batteries and the 40 ah one is $1500 . So just trying to see if 2 of these would be the same. Really trying to cut down on weight and my van build and this would help out alot rather than having 500 plus pounds just for batteries