Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I've got a question for all of you in-the-know...... Running a couple of old-school Celestion AD15H's in my Tahoe, 'glassed in the rear corners after cutting out the inner rocker panels. Approximately 2.4cu ft each, with a 3"x8 1/2" port. I know these are rated at 600w RMS, but I'm pushing them with a Lightning Audio S4.500.1 at 2 ohms - supposedly putting out 250 watts to each sub, but sounds like it's making way more power than that - I'd guess closer to 400 watts to each sub, if not more. I'm using 4ga wiring from the battery to the amp rack under the Powerbass S-10's firing down betwen the front seats (nice midbass staging! LOL!). Have an old Kenwood KAC744 (40wx4@4…

Hello I recently picked up two Kicker L7 12s (yesterday) and I need and additional amp to power both of them. I have a kicker 750 installed from a previous system, But I don't have the money at the moment to but another 750. So I found a deal on craigslist a guy selling 600.1 for 75 bucks. I made arrangements to meet with him tomorrow. Will having tow different power amps cause an audio problem? I know its a funny question and probably stupid but I just didn't know. Never tried it and didn't want to run into problems down the line. The sub boxes that I built are separate so they don't share air. Here is a picture of my trunk and one of the subs installed: The sub is moun…

I had the Addictive Audio 10.4 (115x4 @ 4 ohms) screwed into the box playing the 2 Selenium 6W4Ps active fine for a while. I started getting a static sound from the speakers, when I noticed that nearly all (7 out of 8) screws that hold the casing of the amplifier to the internals had stripped out and was barely hanging on for dear life. I took the amp off the box and took it inside to have a look, and didn't see anything out of the ordinary. That being said, I have no idea what I'm looking at, but there were no loose wires, no solder points that had failed, etc. I gave it another try and set it on the floor of the truck beside the AQ2200D, wired it all up, played fine for…

Hey all I need to re wire my car and move my batts back and get them off my back seat so I can compete.So i was wondering instead of having to take all my wire that I ran out,Could I just use a distribution block as a means of extending my wire?Here is a pic of what I have currently and what Im talking about doing. Sorry for crappy drawings lol.So if you understand what im talking about doing, will it work ?Thanks

Okay so I'm trying to get a estimate of how much wattage I can safely put out without harming my amp's by the voltage dropping. I have a relatively small car, it has a 70 amp alt and I'm not sure about the battery. I was originally going to just run 1000watts on stock electrical but I figured if I upgrade my electrical I can go a little bit bigger. Now lets say I do the big 3 on my little car and I add a deep cycle battery in the back for the amp, how many more watts would I be able to run? And one more thing when you have a voltmeter what is the danger zone in volts? I think it was 11?

im doing the big 3 and was wandering why people put fuses between the alt and batterie + is it to save the cars eletrical system or is it to prevent the wire from melting???

So i went to my local shop and had them do the big 3 for me, yeah i know i should of done it myself lol. Used that Knuconceptz 0 gauge wire. A buddy of mine told me that I will need to add an additional fuse to put between the alternator and the battery, but the shop said that it wasnt needed. I think my alt is like a 130amp on my scion tc, and the extra fuse i bought says 300A. Big 3 helped the voltage a bit, but it still drops right away if im giving a demo or just bumping it loud to the upper 11's. Check the pics here, ImageShack Album - 7 images All i see is the alt to the battery, then the battery to the ground. Is it done right or do i need to add that fuse that i…

So I hook up the Alpine to test the Pre-outs today and upon powering it up, the face will not open,or angle at all. I press the buttons and it seems like the mechanism is either stuck or not catching. Anyone have this problem before or know how to remedy it?

have an ms8 going to this amps with epcc engine whine....swapped different outputs form the ms=8 and realized the ground noise is only present int he front rca's of the vlx-4150 no matter the source of output from the ms-8 if i plug in the rears only no engine noise...could this be a defective amp?

okay i had my mind set on getting these amps 2 of them. after hearing my friends 2010d powering 2 15" ssd's it sounds really really good. every "expert" i've talked to said those are the best amps for the buck right now and HIGHLY recommend them. and i've seen a 2010d power 8 12" AQ's for a long time (5 months) before it overheated/blew. i've always heard (a few years ago) that they have overheating problems. but then again i heard the 2010 models have a different circutiy. i'm really confused on this i do not have the money to spend on "testing" amps anymore and i'm tired of blowing money on low end equipment. so anyways i had my mind set on 2 bxi2610's for about a…

I have a xp2000 in the back and when I bought it I put it in my car and it charged at 13.1 or 14.4 @ 2k rpm. A few days ago when I turned my car on my voltage was at 13.1 like it normally charges at but when I revved the engine it wouldnt charge to 14.4, it slowly then dropped by .1 around per day until I unhooked it because it got to around 12.2. So I checked my connections and grounds and saw no problems. I then looked at the front battery and it was charging at 13.1 and 14.4, but the xp2000 in the back does not charge when its hooked up. So I hooked it up to a charger overnight and it read about 14.4 in the morning and unhooked it, I then went to work and came back…

I have 2 MTX amps that both basically have the same problem. They both have little to no ouput. They are receiving sufficient voltage from the battery (14.4V) and the RCAs (4V). No matter what settings I use nothing changes. Neither seem to have bad transistors or anything. One looks perfect and the other has burnt speaker outputs, which seems to be the obvious problem. Amps: MTX TA81001D (Right) MTX TE1501D (Left) Could anyone possibly tell me whats wrong or direct me to someone that could fix them?

whats your take on the three amps ive been eyeing- AQ 3500, DC 3.5K and Crecendo 3500? im spinning a Singer 220A alternator and 2- kinetic HC1800. so what you think- there all the same. they are the same price new. thanks for any input

Couple weekends ago I was at a car show and a hertz sales rep was talking massive trash about sundown amps (and other non-mainstream companies). He stated that it is impossible for sundown amps and other amps of similar build to do rated power on strictly pcb board. he said hertz amps had a solid copper plate underneath the circuitry to deal with producing high current (1000watts+ or whatever). So my question is, do sundown amps (and others) have any plating underneath the boards? If not, then how do they handle all the current without frying? I'm not in any way, shape or form questioning sundown quality (as I have a saz-1500d myself , but just interested in how all this …

So... I got bored today and decided to write up equations for amplifiers, like loss, power with efficiency, how to find how efficient it is. basically, a variation of ohms law. as we all know, (V)olts * (A)mps equals (P)ower (V*A=P) but, in amplifier circuitry, this cant be used because amps have their own loss. so lets say our imaginary amplifier is 160A, running off 10.65 Vs, and has an effieciency of 77%. it'll push out around 1312.08 Watts. now to find each number, we use these numbers to find them. Basically, 1312.08W / 10.65V = 123.2a - 160a = 36.8 amps of current lost in the amplifier, 36.8 / 160 = .23, subtract that from 1 and we get .77. simple. I'm quite sure al…

hi guys i have a question my box is tune in-between 34-35hz and i have my ssf set to 29hz and no matter where i set my ssf to i can't listen to all my song's. It's like some song's hit to hard where i have to turn down my volume because my sub's would beat to hard for my subs to handle.

Just wanted a couple of suggestions of what amp i shoud put on my highs. I had a kenwood 301T on it but it blew on me so i had to take it out and now my highs sounding like str8 a**. I have two pioneer 5 1/4s, two kenwood excelon tweeters, and two eclipse 6X9s. Help a brotha out.

Ok here is the deal, I have a 08zx750.1 mono kicker amp & unfortunately I sent it out to kicker because I was having problems with my amp cutting off and on, when I turned up my music @ high volume. so kicker repair center diagnosed it and told me that the pcb board was cracked so he gave me a deal of 2010 ZX 750.1 Brand New with 2 year manufacturer warranty for the price of $209.00 or to return my original amp back to me. I was wanting your in-put whether I should get that deal for that brand new 2010 Amp for $209.00 or should I just invest my money on another amp? The set up I have is a 12' inch L7 Kicker dvc 4ohm & I will not be upgrading to add more subwoofers…

Has anyone had experience with the Orion 2500.1dz model amplifier? I heard rumors of it running extremely hot. I want to run my two American Bass XFL 1224’s @ 1ohm and I’m kinda on the fence choosing between the Orion and Taramps MD5000.1. Any advice?

I posted this on another forum but didn't really get the best answer so I figured I see what you guys had to say First off I am going to be running an 800 watt sub amp with an FI sub (Not sure which one yet) And probably a speaker amp around 100x2 watts I have a 94 honda accord with a 70 amp stock alt, I am going to be doing the big three for sure. What other upgrades do you think I am going to need to do? If I have to upgrade my alt would one from ebay do the trick or is that not recommended? I was looking at this battery for the trunk as well http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7324_Kinetik+HC+600.html

Huge disappointment on this purchase, went to hook up my amp yesterday get to the point to install the 100amp fuse block... Epic fail! Both Alan wrenches I received wouldn't fit, had to cut down my 4awg wire to make it fit in the fuse block, pretty much they give u a 10awg fuse holder for a 4awg kit, Why kicker why? Hmmm last time I checked I wasn't trying to have a Mickey Mouse system, thanks kicker..... Js I expect that trash if I bought it from eBay... This was a retail store purchase, yes I went back all the 4awg kits were this way... Recommended fuse block ? Post opions thanks

I'm running a sundown sae1200v1 at 2ohms running voltage is 14.6 it dips down to 13.7-13.4... I'm running 1/0ga about 5 foot run its cca though all I had for ground was a chunk of 2ga it's about a foot long ran to the frame ... also got a 1/0 ga battery ground to the frame even went to a relay harness for the headlights

So I'm slowly putting together a small system for my 2005 TrailBlazer, No SPL Comps, just want something thats really loud and sound really good... Would be nice if it threw up some impressive numbers... What I have in hand or on the way already: 2 - sets of Polk Audio MM6501s (got them last week) 1 - SAX-100.4D (just ordered it today) Should be here by Monday, maybe Sooner... No hurry though, need more stuff... 1 - SAZ-2000D (Had it for a few months for the Blazer, was gonna order 3 more for its redo, but I got the TrailBlazer, so I'm doing it 1st, then back to the Blazer) 3 Sets of Scoche RCA (Per Jacobs recomendation) Buncha wire and connecters and such.... Things to…

So this may be a noob question but i need to learn car 08 grand prix gxp with mechman 270 2 xcon 12's in 4th order bandpass I can purchase two amps vibe blackbox bass 5 that put out (each amp) 1500rms @2ohms I can get both $750 total Or I can purchase one amp sundown 3500d that puts out 1750 rms @2ohms for $800 Would I benefit from getting the two amps and having one to each woofer or would the single amp be my best thing to do?

i was wondering if DieHard Batteries r any good? The platinum seem to have good specs. and warranties. What do ya know?