Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Well I currently have the Hifonics 1606D, but am considering getting something else all ready. Powerbass specs: http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=5469 Hifonics specs: http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=3804 Soundstream specs: http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=3194 Sub is Fi 12" Fi BL (D2, Cooling, Flatwind, Daily) Looking for something around $300.

I have a chance to buy a used Orion hcca 1000.2 amp for less than 70 bucks and the person said it works. Is this a good deal or sounds shady?

Whats this CD player compaired to a dual or Jenson flip up? Is this CD player good enough to some mids and highs? Lemme get some feedback..

So I've been looking online for answers to my dull sense of fully understanding these questions. I have an alpine cde149bt, that I am just not fully comprehending. I have read up and down and searched forums to some avail, but not fully. Im hoping you gurus can help to clarify some things. Now, I have xover settings, with f/r hpf, lpf, frequency and slope. Now I understand these all fairly well, but on this, where I have gotten confused is: does the front hpf control highs, and rear hpf control mids? Or is it as it sounds, front does front, rear does rears? Next is, by setting frequency, slope and levels on xover, how much of an affect does it cause within bands of parame…

Okay, i've been reading up on head units for quite some time, some of you know this from older threads. I was going to go with the flip out they have, but then decided not too because of the bad reviews i've read. Then i was going with the iDA-X305S Alpine Electronics of America, Inc. but i don't/won't use Pandora, and it seems without it.. it's useless Let me know if you run it and don't use Pandora, tell me how it is. BUT, now i'm planning on the IDA-X303 Alpine Electronics of America, Inc. because it's not all about Pandora. Does anyone on here run this head unit? If so, how do you like it? I only use my Itouch for music, no CDs.. keep that in mind. Side note, check …

I was wondering if my Hifonics Brutus BXi 1610D amp can handle 18v? and if so how will it affect its sound and output? I have a 58amp continuous output switching power supply that I just bought to power it in the house, of course i'm not expecting full power, but I was just wondering how well it will handle that voltage and if it is to high the power supply is adjustable. But let me know ok, hopefully it will be better than my 12 volt 16 amp power supply that it is on right now.

I was going to get the alpine 9886, but I came across the amazing deal for boxing day, Amazing Deal on HU Has anyone had any experience from this particular HU? I havent come across 1 negative review on any site, other than Pioneer's grounding issue, im not to worried about that.

I got this from the12volt.com---hope it helps.

i just got word that i might be able to get one of the new jbl amps (bpx1100.1 or bpx2200.1) for cheap.....like manufacturer cost cheap....worth thinking about, i've heard very little about these amps, and if i do decide to go this route it will be replacing my hifonics 1500 to power a xxx15 :boxin:

I'm starting a new build with tax returns and was wondering what kind of electrical upgrades I'll be needing. Q1-4500 and a Q4-90. Subs will be (2) HDC4 12s (if I can fit a 5cu ft box in my Cavalier and have room for the batteries) or (2) HDC3 10s. Was thinking HO alt obviously, I think 270amp is the biggest I've seen for my car. 2 runs of power and ground, big 3 obviously and 3 batteries in the back. Will that be enough?

Hi- I've needed a new alternator for a while and I'm finally starting to get my money up to purchase some upgrades. My 2000 Volvo S40 has a small alternator in a cramped engine compartment so most companies don't make alternators for it. DC Power and Ohio generator will make something for me, but I'm not sure which is the best scenario. I have an IA 40.1 (3600+ rms) and RF T4004 elite (~100x4). DC power quoted me ~$800-900 for a 270XP alternator. ~200 amps at idle, 270 max. This would be fine for my current system, but it's quite pricy and I could not buy new batteries this summer. Ohio generator quoted me ~$350-450 for a ~120A at idle (my stock max), and 200A max. Since …

havent been here for a while, just been caught up in school and what not. Need some questions answered. I want to put a yellowtop in the back about a foot or two away from the amp. KX1200.1. How would you go about doing that, I'm thinking a battery isolator to keep from draining either battery when it's turned off. What gauge would I run to the second aux battery? Where would I run it from? The isolator? The alternator? I want it to charge along with my starter battery so it doesnt stay drained if I listen to it for long enough. Do I ground the second battery to the floor or back to the original battery? I really need some help so tell me everything you know about …

i was just wondering how much the EXILE XI1500.1 cost?

I NEED A HIGH OUTPUT ALT. FOR A 1999 MERCEDES C230 KOMPRESSOR, CANT FIND ONE, I NO IT DOESNT, HAVE A DELCO, ALT, IT HAS THE MERCEDES VERISON, HELP PLEAAAAAAAAAAAAAASE

why was i told that the 4 gauge wire that i am using for my sub is not only overkill but bad for it due to too much resistance? I have not heard of this theory before, is there something that would support this train of thought? thanks chop

Soon i should be running 2 saz1000d's strapped for 1800 at 2ohms in my isuzu rodeo(60 amp alt) big 3 done in 1/0. I have both amps already and i also have one stinger spv44. I will be buying another batt soon, probably a deka intimidator 9a31. Now my question is, which one should i use as the starting batt and which as the batt in the back? im not sure what i should do. I wont have a h/o alt for another couple months also. I know thats probably not enough to run the amps at full power, but i will keep the gains low until i get a h/o alt. thanks for any input! -Max

Ok so I got 2 major questions. Lets start off with the first one... So I have been doing some reading and trying to understand batteries, amp hours, CCAs, and such. And I am lost.... I even watched that youtube video someone posted explaining it and I just was overwelmed with all the math/info. So here is one question for ya. 1st vehicle is a 1999 mustang GT. It has 1 4awg positive run to the rear and split in a distro block to a jl 300/2 amp and a phoenix gold zx350 amp. Ground in the trunk is also 4 awg as well. The problem is the lights dim. But when I hooked up a DMM to the battery in the front it read 14.4 volts and would drop to 14.1 at the lowest with the sub hitti…

I've been trying to trouble shoot my hissing noise for a while now and don't know where else to look. When the sub amp is hooked up, the subs have a slight crackle, and the tweeters hiss. But when I unhook the remote to the sub amp the highs are fine. I've moved all of the grounds in the back around to a few different places. I've also tried grounding the head unit, and checked the rcas and tried a different set of rcas.Also added a relay. Grounding the hu kinda lessened the hissing in the highs, but not too much. I don't really know where else to check. I was thinking about just getting a new hu to see if mine is taking a shit...Any advice?

I have a new kenwood head unit I'm trying to install. I bought the scosche wiring harness for my toyota tercel at walmart. I ran into a problem, none of the connections on the wiring harness fit into the back of my kenwood cd player. I'm a noob when it comes to this so help me out? Here are some pictures showing the backs of both head units and the factory wires and the scosche wiring harness. The wires that went into the back of the stock head unit The back of the stock one, see the place to insert the plug? My kenwood doesn't have that There is only one place that looks like a harness would go there, but none of them fit Here is the wiring harness IDK WHAT IM DOINGG…

is there such technology? i had an idea hmmm... wouldnt it be great to watch digital broadcasted tv in the truck. so what im basically asking, is there a headunit out there that can pickup digital tv broadcast? give me a link & or reason why they dont exist

hello i have two JBL GT4-12 sub woofers which mono amp would be best to power them up. Subwoofer Specifications Subwoofer Size 12" Voice Coil(s) Single Impedance (per voice coil) 4 ohms Peak Power Handling 1000 watts RMS Power Handling 250 watts Woofer Composition Polypropylene Woofer Surround Rubber Sensitivity 93 dB Frequency Response 23 - 450 Hz Xmax (millimeters) N/A Top Mount Depth 6.25" Cutout Diameter 11.14" my budget is 300$ please kindly reply regards simmer

i had a t20001bd on my btl for a loooong time but finally sold the amp and the whole charging system but still have the sub im trying to sell, but i bought this kenwood 9102d from a buddy so i could thump while im trying to sell my sub... when i have all the wires connected (and yes it is hooked up perfect this isnt my first time) the power light does NOT come on, but the remote wire has enough voltage and the power wire is good (checked with volt meter)....BUT when i pull out BOTH 30a fuses the red power light comes on for like 3-5 seconds then fades away, but voltage and everything stays the same on the amp...the 4 channel amp i have hooked up next to it off the same ba…

Ok, I have decided the XXX, huge amp, heavy optima yellow top 31 series, and massive box is too much for what I need it for. I am selling everything except the Rainbows and my HU to Jamie's cousin. Here is what the next system will be: 2 RL-i 8's sealed in a movable box Rainbows on a 150x2 amp (that seems to be the most power they can take) A matching amp for the rl-i's (around 700 watts) Audiocontrol EQT's and 4XS I would also like to be able to stay in the running for USACi 0-600 sq class. I can get the JBL's for about 550-600 if my eBay powerseller pricematch goes through on SD. I can get the Kickers for around 750-800 I think. I already have a PA VX3002, and anoth…

mmats d300hc. gonna try to mod it to run at 1 ohm daily, might just try it to see if it will be stable. shoould go nice with the sq4035 i have

Okay so maybe this is a stupid question just because the amount of power should be fairly close to one another. But I have 2, 15in zcon d2. And im going to buy a new amp,next week. I was thinking of cresendo 5500 and running it at .5 ohms like i am now. But somebody local to me is selling 2 svc 3000. If i strap them ill be doing 6k at 2 ohms. Or my origin plan of crezenxo amp which is rated for 5850 @1ohm. Since im running that at .5ohms not,sure how much ill actually be getting theres no spec on .5 ohm. So my question is which way would be better or does it not matter since theyll be pretty,close? Is this just going to be what brand i choose to run or is there more pro…