Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Ok, so after doing the voltage setting of the gain, I figured I need around 50 volts for the saz2500d running at 1 ohm. Currently at 40 till I get the inside done with bracing. Problem is, when I turn volume up to 29-30, after 10-15 seconds the circuit breaker up front for the positive run of 0 gauge trips. Then the amp goes into protect mode. Am I drawing that much current that I need to run another run of 0 gauge? Have a 31m diehard platinum in the rear, all 0 gauge, and a 270 mechman. Big 3 in 0 gauge and all frame grounds. Amp ground is only 16" or so to frame.

Long story short, my system has been under construction for quite some time. I decided to throw some speakers in the doors via the factory speaker wires just to have something to listen to, but there was no sound. My first thought was a short somewhere in the wires, so I wired one speaker directly to the HU's harness (literally at the back of the HU, not through harness adapter) and it still produced absolutely nothing. I played around with the settings and couldn't find anything that could cause this. Am I missing something stupid, or is this HU fried?

hello right now i have a jl 1000/1 powering a 18" bl..i'm thinking about switching to a kicker zx1500.1 what do you guys think? i was impressed with the jl but i feel it could use more power, plus the jl chit out on me after a couple months so i kinda wanna sell it after it gets fixed/replaced under warranty...what do you guys think?

I'm running 1 Linear Power 5002iq to 1- 12" sub rated for 500 rms. Linear Power suggests a 60 amp fuse, 1 at the battery and 1 at the amp. The amp has 8 gauge power wire hardwired in to connect to. Do I need to run 4 gauge from the battery to a distribution block or can I get away with 8 gauge from the battery all the way back? Thanks

this is a WHOLE new world for me. this is what i have come up with... ID CD1Pro's Some nice midbass Drivers...hoping to run them at 2 ohms if possible for 100w. any suggestions? and an EQ/crossover type thing, im really confused on how that works. Do i hook all my amps to a single EQ? do i need to run any wires to my HU? i want a cheap one, just enough to get by. i was thinking about just using my HU's crossovers to mess with everything, or should i buy xternal ones? but im really lacking in the EQ part... i dont think a 3-band would cut it with the horns all of this is going to be thru one 4 channel amp. any suggestions and advice would be greatly appreciated

Hey all.Im going to be getting an AQ2200 amp soon and I was told I need to get another battery.I kinda figured I would need another battery but Im worried my alternator wont be able to keep up.As it is right now my head lights and other lights dimm when I have my music up with a autotek 1500 watt amp.My car is a 1977 Oldsmoblie Delta 88.The alternator is a remanufactured one and I have no clue how many amps it is putting out.I know the alternator isn't that old.So my question is if I put another battery and a AQ2200 amp in will the alternator handle it or will I need another one or what?I haven't done the big 3 yet as im not enterly sure of what it consists of but I know …

Ok guys i drive an 02 chevy cavalier and i had a weak xplod amp with 2 old RF H 12's or whatever and i sold them and bought a RF BD1500. I'm about to buy a Fi BL 12 and i have a pro working on my box but what should i do electrical wise?? i've been told like a 40 farad cap on the stock system would be good and ive also been told i need a second battery and better wiring. Which do i need? Can someone please help me??

Guys where can i find a good alternators for my 2001 dodge neon, something good at a reasonable price...some numbers would be nice too

Hi and Good Morning. I am trying to come up with an amp to power my Digital Designs 1008 sub. It has been rated at 500 continuous and 2000 peak. I was told to make sure to get an amp that will supply at least 500 watts rms but i am considering running two of the 1008's or two of the 1508's by Digital designs. I have heard many good things about both of these amps the Sundown Audio SAZ 1000D.1 and the Precision Power P1000.1. Can anybody give me some great advise here and thank You very much.

Hey guys, I was wondering about the difference between these 2 amps. My box for the 2 18" Btls is in the proccess of being built, and I am entitled to pick up 2 Powerbass XA 3000d's for 700 bucks a piece (brand new) and I was wondering if they are the equivilent to the Saz 3000d's and will perform as indicated? http://www.powerbassusa.com/products/ampli...xa_class_d.html http://www.sundownaudio.com/3000d.html thnks, Freddy

hello everybody, I'm new in the forum and I need some information about this amp Autotek 500.s, I just ge this amp to replace my system, but I didn't get any info on it, does anyone know something about it? thanks!

what do ya'll think? i have a pioneer deh-p3500 and the s/w outputs only put out 2v ......my uncles jvc arsenal h/u puts out 4v ........the same system swapped from my car to his but running on his h/u packs alot more punch and sounds better...........so instead of spending money i dont have on a h/u on the same level as his ive been looking into line drivers cause they arent so pricey ......but i recall several years ago my cuzzin had one and it ended up frying his amp.......so are line drivers a good idea? if so wut brands are good but cheap...and...how many volt output one should i get?

It seems as though a nightmare has occured because yesterday my voltage was very low and my battery light kept flickering on and off. I went to O'Riellys and they told me my battery was bad. I have owned the Kinetik HC1800 for only about 6 months now and I have a custom 240 amp alternator (12v). I need advice please! If in fact the battery is bad what to I change to? Here are the specs: 2001 Ford Windstar LX Pioneer Head Unit 0 gauge & big three 2 alpine type rs hifonics brz1200d @1ohm Kinetik HC1800 (claimed to be bad after 6 months?) The gentleman at O'Reillys told me to switch to an Optima? As a car audio guy I though Optimas weren't the way to go? I was thinki…

I'm looking to do the big 3 on my 98 expedition. I was looking at the wiring from alt to batt and there are 2 runs of wire. Both are fused. Either 150 or 175 amp fuses. Am I alright to run wire straight from the amp to the battery? Or should I replace wire from alt to the fuses then fuses to batt? I'd rather leave stock wiring there and then run a 4 or 0ga run straight over. Of course I'd just do the 2 grounds chassis to block, block to batt. Any have experience with a late 90s ford?

Ok so I tried using the search engine (not working for me). But what is the specific duty of the gain on the amp? How should I adjust it? I heard I am supposed to match the volts with my head unit preout volts? I bump the system daily. Also if you need more info on my setup its in my sig.

Ok so I got 2 major questions. Lets start off with the first one... So I have been doing some reading and trying to understand batteries, amp hours, CCAs, and such. And I am lost.... I even watched that youtube video someone posted explaining it and I just was overwelmed with all the math/info. So here is one question for ya. 1st vehicle is a 1999 mustang GT. It has 1 4awg positive run to the rear and split in a distro block to a jl 300/2 amp and a phoenix gold zx350 amp. Ground in the trunk is also 4 awg as well. The problem is the lights dim. But when I hooked up a DMM to the battery in the front it read 14.4 volts and would drop to 14.1 at the lowest with the sub hitti…

ok, here's the situation. i've been out of the game for a while and am jumping back in with both feet but have a little area of concern, i will be running a 100.4 on all my mids and highs for front stage and rear fill but have also been toying with throwing a Audio Control eqs 6 channel crossover at it as well. My concern here is that with all the crossover points between the eqs and the amps, that there will be some serious tuning issues to the point of wanting to pull out what ever hair i have left. ( yes i am considered an old fart in the car audio world now, 33 on wednesday) I am open to suggestions here on which routes to go as far as ditching the idea of the eqs a…

Hey I new with audio most of the time I have a mini truck which I never could fit a system into the cab but anyways i just bought a clarion amp made in 1996 and it has never been hooked up its a two channel apa2100 so what kind of subs could i run to get the best sound out of it is going in a 96 rodeo so i have room for about anything but anything would help thanks

anyone know if its legit, does it do what it says?

guys , what does the CAPACITOR do exactly ?? all i know wit capacitors that its some how like a battery , it get charaged , then it charges off givin high current at an interval , :S or am i wrong , any ways , what does it do ,??? thanks for help

ok..I have 4 AA 8's and a hifonics amp 2000 watt brtus. My amp will be on and then out of no where it will shut off. then come back a little bit later it started this when it got cold out. Does anyone know why or how I can fix this.

I have an ED 13Ov.2 that has just sat in my closet for a couple years. I just ordered a Nine.1 for it only to realize that they are on back order for who knows how long. The sub is a dual 2 so what is another nice amp putting out 600 or more RMS at 1 ohm for around 200?? Thanks in advance

i'm sellin my hifonics 1500d.i was thinkin of maybe getting a hifonics 1800d or hifonics 2200d.my friend jason recomended a jbl 1201.1. i just need somthing that won't draw a chitload of power. thanks guys!! charles

I have spent most of yesterday checking connections and redoing them. Before that the only thing I did was actually put a crimp on the main remote line running to the amps as to how I had them before just twisted together and taped. before the crimp I rarely got that THUD sound and now it happens every time I take key out of ignition without turning off radio first. Heres what I have kenwood HU running to, clarion EQ, from there to one Rockford P1000-1bd and a P400-4 I guess I'm being lazy and should just undo that crimp but I think that crimp is stronger than just twisting line together, could I be wrong? could I have done the crimp wrong?

Hi can anyone help, I have a kicker sx900x2 amp which drives one L7 15" sub what is the best amp setting I could used to achive the best result? ray