Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Finally I am getting a Crossover for my system---$150 for a AudioControl 3XS---not bad. just thought I would share

I have one run of 4g to my 730wrms amp, with big three done in 4g, but I'm still dimming really badly. im almost positive its my batt, but i haven't tested my alt yet.. anyway, which of these batteries should i get (to replace stock batt): kinetik hc 1400 - ah:60 amps: 1500 kinetik hc 800 -- ah:36 amps: 950 or something else that will hopefully solve my dimming problem? i dont know much about batts, any advice would really be appreciated. thanks to all.

ok..I have 4 AA 8's and a hifonics amp 2000 watt brtus. My amp will be on and then out of no where it will shut off. then come back a little bit later it started this when it got cold out. Does anyone know why or how I can fix this.

When you run active does that mean the driver of the car gets the best sound? Not the passengers?

Do you like the new 45 degree angled connectors or the straight out connectors?

Is the Deka decent at start vehicles? My dad offered to put $200 to a new battery for me, and I have heard nothing but good things about the Deka's. Anyone have any major problems? And how does it compare to the Optima Yellow Top?

I'm in need of either a 2 or 4 channel amp to drive my 6x8s and 8" midbass speakers. I'm only used to mono sub amps so this question may seem silly. My concern is I want to set a High and low crossover for the midbass. A range like 80 to 250hz while the 6x8's play 250hz and up. A) Do 4 channel amps allow you to set a high and low x-over at the same time? B) Can I just use a 2 Channel amp and buy passive crossovers that will send 80-250hz to the midbass and 250hz and up to the 6x8s?

HU: Alpine 9885 (4V) Front speakers: CDT CL-62 (160RMS) Rear speakers: CDT 69X (100RMS) Subwoofer: Fi 12" Here's how I have them wired. Front speakers are amplified, rear speakers are running off the head unit. The rear speakers start to distort at around 25/35 HU volume. Why? Ideally I would have preferred to have my HU @ ~30/35 for PEAK listening levels. But as of now, since the rears distort so early I have my front speakers and sub tuned to peak at around 22/35. Most of the audio is definitely coming from the front and the rears are doing a good job imagining, but I find that I could get much more out of my system if the rears weren't limiting me so much. What are my …

ive recently upgraded my subs and now i cant hear anything when im full tilt. im going to delete the rear speakers and i was looking for a decent 2 ch amp for my front speakers. im curious to see if you guys have any suggestions for a budget amp that can do ~50-100 rms each @ 2 ohm. i had a few questions also. if the amp had lets say 1% THD would that be noticeable? also how important is the signal to noise ratio? would 80db be really bad? (these are extreme examples) another thing, if the amp is cea compliant does that mean their THD and signal to noise numbers must be true, or is it only hold true to rms ratings? thanks!

ok guys im starting a thread here to discus some real cheap amp, new and used, that would be acceptable for a budget setup like mine. also, the new option must have some significant advantages for justifying the purchase. i have to run off shortly so i cant type up to much right now. what i have now is a kicker zx100.2 and kx250.2 powering sls8's and peerless 3" full range. my dad is interested in the 100.2 for 30 bucks (baught for 50) and my bro is interested in the 250.2 for 70 (paid 90) and im willing to throw in 100 bucks tops for a $200 budget. some things that id like to get out of this are, 1 a good quality amp that i can expect to last thru college (3 years), …

Alright guys I need your help, Ill most likely be getting either an sx 10 or 12 and i need suggestions for an amp that i could use to power one of these beasts. Ill be honest, Im poor lol so the cheaper the better! Thanks Tom

I have an old school LP 1502IQ. It has not be modded. I'm getting ready to start putting together something for my wife's car. She wants a good sounding front stage with minimal bass from a sub. She listens to all kinds of music. Is this amp worth sending out to be modded and put on a component set of Focals or similar? Or should I just sell it and get a Sundown amp. If I go with the Sundown amp...could the 100.4 do the front components and also a sub like the SA-8 on pre-sale now? This is going in a Kia Spectra5. The specs show that it has to have a slim mount component set. Does anyone know of any components around the same quality as the Focals that are shall…

How are they as far as doing rated power and being musical or are they just a ground pounder amp. I am particularly looking at the VLX 1de and 2de. Any help you can give is greatly appreciated.

Im thinking about preordering the SAE1200D to replace my Kx1200.1. Is Sundown a better made amp? Could i please get pros and cons of Sundown amps. I also heard that Sundowns draw less amps then Kickers is that true

So the other day I was messin' a but with my audio equipment... I noticed a very distinct buzzing coming from my front stage amp... realizing this could be a number of issues, I've ruled out the wiring already... I am going to take this time to upgrade my amp from the Kenwood 4ch to a Soundstream 2ch... Was looking into the Sundown 125.2 but for the money the Soundstream has more headroom.... This is the amp... TRA800.2 : Specs are as follows: * OUTPUT (WATTS):RMS @ 4 Ohms: 200x2 * RMS @ 2 Ohms: 400x2 * RMS Bridged @ 4 Ohms: 800 X 1 * T.H.D.: < 0.02% * Frequency Response (Hz): 10 - 50k * SIGNAL TO NOISE RATIO: > 115dB * DAMPING FACTOR:…

i got my friend's stock HU from his civic cuz he got a new one and i want to install it into my 88crx but the back of his HU doesnt have wires hanging like most aftermarket ones, it has a slot just to plug the stock car harness into, so now what

My amp cuts on with only the remote wire hooked up to it why? and when i hook the power and ground wire up it wont power my speakers.

Few months back I started to get strange sounds through my speakers like, white noise, speakers popping, buzz, thumping or like when you disconnected a RCA and accidentally ground the male tip. It does this everyday then the music stops playing but could hear a low floor noise & stereo still be counting down like if it’s playing music. It wont play music until i turn off vehicle & turn back on and sometimes it wont still play. I sent out the DSP because sometimes when this happens the controller for DSP sometimes dims and cutoff, the technician said there’s nothing wrong with the DSP. My head unit is a pioneer x4700bs & im using stinger 8000 series rcas

I'm wanting a kenwood or pioneer head unit for my truck (currently all stock), its a 2004 chevy ext. cab. I want bluetooth, am/fm, hd is a bonus, cd player, and other nice creature comforts. I really like the double din units, but I don't like the price, and I'm not opposed to singles. I'm willing to spend up to $350 (not if its a single), but I just don't know what is best option at that price...and yes I know it is personal preference. I would prefer to buy new so their is a warranty, but not totally against refurbished/used. Has anyone used refurbished HU's, what brand, where did you get it, how did it function? Also, can anyone direct me to a good site that does…

This is the video I took in order to help show what my exact problem is I'm dealing w/ currently....if ANYONE has seen this type of behavior in any Amps OR ESPECIALLY if anyone's had an Orion that acted up like this I'd be very great full for any help or suggestions.. thank you! Much appreciated! YouCut_20181013_000700427.mp4

Looking for an amp that is at least 750watts rms for a kicker L7. What brand is better Hifonics or Soundstream? The amps that i am looking at from the 2 company's SOUNDSTREAM PCA2.760 2 CHANNEL 760 WATT AMPLIFIER NEW AND HIFONICS TXi7506 750W MONO AMPLIFIER AMP TITAN TXi 7506

I am getting 2 15" AA havocs (hence the name lmao!) 1250 watts rms per sub ... i have noticed that they are going to have to be dvc 2 ohm per sub (no other options for ohms)... My question is which amp would be better to power these subs... i kno alot of responses will be sundown... and i am leaning toward sundown but thinking realistically i could wire the sundown to 2 ohms and get 1600 watts split between 2 subs or i could go with the kicker and get 2500 split between subs... i really want the sundown but i dont want to underpower the subs... i am stuck and getting indecisive... which would be the better buy...

Ok guys I recently put in an 18" fi bl with a Sundown Sae-1200dv2 into a 2009 ford escape. The box is around 7 cubes tuned to 32 hertz. Amp is being ran at 1 ohm. All power and ground wire is being ran in 1/0 Knu. Under the hood i have only upgraded my battery negative to chassis ground power wire to 1/0 ga. Everything is properly installed wiring wise, I'm having a problem with the amp going into protection mode when playing music higher volumes. The bass boost is all the way down on the amp and the gain is set to 1/2 and everything else was set by a buddy of mine more experienced with car audio. What happens is when i have the gain on my knob turned up to about 3/4 mayb…

I need the biggest and best batt I can possibly get my hands on. Not looking too spend over $1000 for 2 and the battery can not be over 800 sq in. Im going to be having 2 RD D5 each wired at .25 ohms on it and am only allowed 2 batteries total. I already no my voltage is going to drop extremely low, thats why I need to know what my best options are for 2 batteries. I am going to be having a 350 amp alt too fyi

was installing my new to me sundown sae1200v1 i waned to set the gains with a dmm ..went to tighten down the screws and the dam bit fell out and arched the terminals it sparked everything shut off ..then came back on speakers make a weird hissing sound sub did work so i swapped the speaker amp for another hissing stopped but now the sub works then it dont not getting any reading with a dmm on the rca's