Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I have a RF T1500-1BDCP that once it is powered up its thermal light is lit very dim. The amp still delivers sound (and tons of it) and the protect light does not come on. It does this once the amp has power ground and accessory wires connected and radio is turned on. The system has runs of 0gauge KunKoncepts (+ and -), big 3 0gauge, optimum red top up front. Alt is 110 amp soon to be upgraded. I tested the wiring with an old P300-1 and it didn't have the thermal light show. I checked ground, and voltage and both were good. Anybody ever seen this happen? Even though the rest of the system wasn't connected yet it is pushing 1 FI BL 10" (fully loaded) running at 2 ohm. let …

I've always been against it, because it seems like it would vibrate the living fuck out of the guts and possibly make parts become loose and resulting in the amp being faulty. BUT! I am tight on space, and might have to do so. So i was wondering if everyone who has done this before can tell me if their amp(s) had a problem, if so what problem and/or if the amp was fine. Please include name(s) of equipment! Thank you!

Yesterday we put the stereo in my cousin's Silverado. We had a remote wire problem and need to pull the HU out today. We noticed last night that his dome lights won't turn off now, even after pulling the key and shutting the doors for a while. It's never done this before until now, is there any chance fixing the remote wire will solve this problem?? Thanks

FI BTL 15" dual 2 ohm, wired to 1 Rockford t1500bd The birth sheet wattage is 1700, so after calculation the voltage output should be 41.23. I tested with a dmm to find the voltage and at this level the sub is not as loud as a btl should be. also the amp gets to this 41.23 volts with no punch eq, and very little gain. could anyone explain this because this sub should take all the power of this amp and then some but is not sounding like a btl right now. with twice the voltage output the sub still sounds good, is loud, but the amp gets extremely hot.

So today i received a nice new 220amp DB electrical alternator since my stocker finally fell victim to the 3500D. After a 5 hour install process which is considered fast on a mazda tribute........ i start the car up and hear a big old grinding noise coming from it. Needless to say i am highly pissed at the situation and they best have a new one at my dorr very quick. Anyone else had experience with them? I herd alot of good things and for the price its not bad at all. Anyways expect a new video with 4 agms and a new alt soon if i ever get it fixed..... should be a good little gain.

Ok guys just wondering what you would recommend me I can do on my current electrical. Currently I have an 18 Fi Bl d2 running with a sundown Saz-1500d. My electical consists of the big three being done in 1/0 gauge and an optima yellow top up front with around 1000 ca and a newer Ford 700ca battery in back. I am just looking for a setup to get lower and louder than the BL can. The Bl is in a 7.3ish cu ft book tuned at like 31-32 hz. Currently my headlights lights have almost no dimming whatsoever so I know I have a decent electrical. My budgets right around 800. So I'm looking into selling the BL on here and getting the BTL. I'd probably end up building a new box for the …

i got a question about a rockford fosgate amp so..... i got a fi bl 12'' and had it hooked up to a planet audio rxd1000 and it worked fine but was really underpowered just got mt new amp in today , a rockford fosgate r1000-1d and my sub isnt working now i checked everything from remote wire, to fuses, to how i wired the sub and i cant find out why it isnt working any ideas please?

hey everyone! i just finished building my first box today for my ssa icon and couldnt be happier. i bought the sub and amp used and i believe that the settings on the amp are off a bit. the sub hits the lows great (i tuned the box fairly low) but when it comes to even remotely high notes that should rattle my teeth out there is almost nothing there! and example is white girl but usda...it hits that low note like a champ but when it comes to the high one the door speakers are louder than the sub. i did some research and am thinking it has something to do with the low pass frequency and high pass frequency? also i have the gain turned all the way up...that was the only …

My current car is running off the stock 80 amp alternator. I am planning on soon putting 1200 watts RMS through the system. How will I know if I need an extra battery, or new alternator, or what? Thanks.

so i was diggin around in the garage and found an old amp that my dad had for his car back in the day. and it says its a pyramid audio class a bridgeable amp. that is 200 watts x 2 channels. and im curious if anyone here has even used this amp before? its ancient lol but my dad said it worked when he used to. he just doesn't remember anything about it. anyone got any ideas about it or anything? specs i mean ANYTHING would be awesome, i was just gonna play around with it so i mean whatever lol thanks everyone (btw not trying to affend anyone saying its ancient im young but i still love you oldies ) Uploaded with ImageShack.us

So I'm getting ready to do my wiring and I came across: http://www.remybattery.com/Departments/Cable--Accessories/Connectors--Lugs-and-Terminals/Compression-Connectors.aspx the battery terminals look pretty cool... Any thoughts on compression terminals? Pretty secure?

So my friend bought a Lanzar MaxP1200 (for some reason) and he proceeded to changes his (3) 30A fuses to (3) 40A fuses because he said that the bigger the fuse the better. Now, in my head it seems like the amp was rated at 90A for a reason but i dont know shit about fuses. So, by changing the fuses, is he screwing things up?

ok everything is hooked up right is there a setting on the headunit to turn the subs on or am i fucked

So acouple weeks ago I had a viper r350 installed in my truck and I took the liberty of ordering two Directed 515r backup battery sirens... I tested them now with the included keys and they're pretty loud. My ears were pulsating. Well I'm reading the instructions on them now and could use some help...There are 4 wires on the unit itself: red - +12v, fused at 5amps, constant source black - ground violet - "(+) Siren Input: Connect this wire to the (+) siren output of the security system. If using a DEI security system, this would be the brown (+) siren output wire." green - "(-) Siren Input: If using a security system with a (-) siren output, connect this wire to the sys…

so I just upgraded my sub and amp. I went from two MTX Roadthunder 12's in a prefab with a Bazooka EL500.1 amp to A DD2510 in a custom ported box with JBL GTO7001 amp. I bought it from my friend. it was loud in his car (a neon) but not quite as loud as my old crappier 12's in my car( a camry). Nothing has changed about the setup except what car its in. My head unit is a JVC KW-NX7000, if that has anything to do with it. We just put it in today and I'm kind of a noob at car audio( I can wire stuff up, I'm just not as versed in the intricacies of it all). I haven't really messed with the settings on the amp yet. Right now it has a nice clear bump for when I listen to rock b…

i have a kenwood KDC-MP245 in my 1997 honda accord with no subs hooked up just my alpine sps-600 speakers in the doors and when i turn it up and the bass hits the head unit will start dimming but not the head lights. does anyone know why this is happening?

Looking for a quality amp that can push about 1200 - 1500 actual RMS @ 2 ohms. Class D and smaller design prefferred, mono block. This is for my L7 sub Been looking at the new Kicker amps. i like how small they are, and are CEA certified but want to see if i could find better out there. Also checked out Sundown 1500D amp but tests show only pushes 985 watts @ 2 ohms actual output. Hard to find amps with proper real world ratings.

I just swapped my 2 Sundown Audio SAZ-3000d's for 2 3500's but im getting much less volume, 2.5 v drop, subs are heating up fast, excursing lots, and even music mute amps are getting warmer than they should, one particularly more than the other. Im at a loss! please any info will be helpful!

so i got a 4' x 8' sheet of 3/4 plexi for free the other day so im using some of it to enclose my amp. im wondering where i should mount my fans i have 2 4" fans and im wondering how should i mount and wire them. 1 in each end? wired one pushes and one pulls? or both pulling air in? and ill add 2 more when i find some more

I am never one to cut corners, on the flip side I am one to over build. I am ditching Iraggi alternators cuz their service SUCKS and I am going excessive amperage. I will be getting another HO alt and 2 more big AGM batteries and doing some more runs of ott. 1st off, do you guys recommend I get a missinglinkaudio voltage regulator? Anyway, should I get dual 4 ohm XXXs for the VAN and go 2 ohm, or should I run dual 2 at 1 ohm since I should have good electrical to back it up? I have heard stay 2 ohm, and I think that is what I will do. It's already too loud as it is 99% of the time.. my ears hurt and get numb on a daily basis and I know it's stupid. But when i'm showing o…

So seeing as how I've recently become a victim of theft I'm thinking of what I need to do before I even think about installing the new setup I've been working on.. I had the idea of wiring in a hidden switch that is connected to the lock actuator\circuit to the rear cargo area door..This way if someone does get in through other doors and they try to unlock the back to get in and remove stuff, they won't be able to (unless they find the switch..which will be hidden well.) Does this make sense\sound like a decent approach? Obviously an alarm is going in too.

A buddy of mine just got a new 2010 Silverado. He took the old head-unit out of his other truck to put in this truck. The HU is a pioneer in-dash double din, not sure which model but it's fairly new. His harness for the old truck (an older silverado 00-05) is not the same for this new truck. We've looked everywhere for a compatible harness but cannot find one. The stereo also doesn't fit where stock double din was, so I guess we will need a dash kit too. Any help would be VERY appreciated. These new vehicles piss me off.. Here is the stock stereo

Traded my friend for what looks like a rf t-1000 monoblock. This is exactly what it looks like but it has no rf sticker on the front, but it does have the rf sticker on the back with the serial number and whatnot. It has 2 channels NOT 1 does this mean its not a 1000rms mono block? I hooked it up to my type e 12 and it worked fine.

So I just had a Viper r350 put into my vehicle...I want to add additional sirens. I've seen some 120db ones online for as little as $6... Anyone know if there's a limit to how many I can run off this alarm? I'm thinking 1 in each corner of the vehicle would be nice...

So last night I sat down and made a small list of wiring and accessories I'll need to get my saz 3500d powered. I'll be running one battery upfront and two in the back. The extra 0 gauge is for the big 3...Any advice on better products or a cheaper source would be appreciated.. http://www.subtilisaudio.com/products/Stinger-SPD5203-Pro-Classic-ANL-0%7B47%7D4-Gauge-Inline-Fuse-Holder.html x 3 @ $35 - 3 fuse holders http://www.subtilisaudio.com/products/Tsunami-5-Pack-Gold-ANL-Fuses-%28Choose-Size%29.html x 1 - $8 - 5 300amp fuses http://www.subtilisaudio.com/products/Stinger-SHI2120-HPM-1-RCA-Cable-20FT.html x 2 - $24 - 20ft rcas http://www.subtilisaudio.com/products/Stinge…