Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Hi i am looking for a deck with aux gain control seems difficult to find , sony has -8,+18 would aslo love a deck that i DO NOT need to open to insert cd thanks

i am going to be powering an Audioque 4X90 and an Audioque 2200D, was wondering if the planned electrical upgrades would be sufficient enough. Kinetik HC1800 up front and another Kinetik HC1800 in the back Knukonceptz KonFused +/- Battery Terminals for both batteries 1/0 ga welder's cable for big 3 upgrade 1/0 ga welder's cable for power/ground run from front to back 1/0 ga welder's cable for 2200D 4 ga welder's cable for 4X90 Knukonceptz KonFUSED High Current In-Line Fuse Holders ran after second battery in rear, 3x 30A fuses for the 4X90 and 3x 100A fuses for the 2200D 8 ga wire for the subs 10 ga wire for the components haven't decided if i will need a h.o. alternator…

I'm currently installing a rather large system in my car, and using an alpine ida-x001 as the main unit. Only problem is the unit does not have a CD player, and I really don't wanna deal with a seperate CD changer to hook up to it. i have another alpine deck with tilt, the CDA- 9851. Not sure if i would need some sort of switch-board for all the RCA-s or not. I would like to be able to use either deck and still have full usability of every part of the system. So having both decks would def. be ideal.

Do you like the new 45 degree angled connectors or the straight out connectors?

ive searched for a while with no luck. i have access to a O-scope to set it but i was wondering if ther is anything special i need to know to set it?? any info will help too.

Hello, I've been searching for a long time but what I found seems to be too light : not enough power when I burn it on a cd! Can you give some links, please? at least a 50 Hz test tone for the sub, and a 1000 Hz one for the speakers. BTW, do you all set the gains like that, or can you use some music instead ? Thanks

ok heres the thing im putting in a center console with a tape player in my s-10. i removed the tape player so i can put my bass knob and a toggle switch where it should be. im gonna have plexiglass fill the hole and i wanna put a green led behind it and wire it to the hvac or anywhere in there so it comes on when the lights are on can anyone help me with this on any part. how to put the led back there so it lights the plexiglass and wire it so it comes on with the lights. its a 2002 s-10 xtreme,

ok here it is I think that I'll be going with either the opti 6000 or the VFL 500.1 any input on which one would be greatly helpfull. Also if there are any others in the same price (1500-2000) feel free to post them. Thanks

Hey guys, I just bought my 2 Dcon 12s and I'm looking for a decent amp for my mids and highs. It'd be nice if it were right around $100. I was looking at this one right here, http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=269-190 If there's a cheaper amp that still would do what I need then please share. Thanks guys!

Sooooo I feel like a total noob lol. Most amps that can be strapped have a master/slave switch. My atomic AT3000.1s do not. But they are strappable. Now I assume these strap like a saz3000 due to being almost exactly the same amp. Don't post up pointing out differences or bashing my shit. These amps are badass. From what I can see, saz3000 amps do not have a master/slave switch either. Referring to this thread the layout of my atomics are exactly the same minus the fuses of course. On the control/RCA side my amps are exactly the same. So I guess they automatically switch when strapped? Or is there a hidden switch somewhere?

Good evening people I need some info on the epicenters , like the ones from Audiocontrol . What exactly do they do ? Is it a great plus having one if it's free. thanks

So I in the market in buying a 4 channel amp I need about 100 rms per channel going cheap on the amp crunch or MB quart. But my question was if i buy the amp i can use 2 channels for my front stage and can I leave the other 2 for a sub? And most amps are only bridgeable at 4 ohms so this means it is 20 ohms each channel? And my sub is a 4 ohm DVC so if i wire it 2 2ohms it going to be at 1 ohm? So what I'm saying is will I be able to run a front stage and a sub together?

I have an old school Memphis amp putting 1500 at two ohms into two SA12s. Bass boost on the amp is 40hz, I have the bass boost up a quarter. Amp gain is at half right now but, BUT. I have a feeling it's not all the way up. I usually set my gains by playing Put On by Jeezy since it has a few different levels of bass and I can set it so it doesnt clip on any of those. I don't feel like im doing this right, so I need pointed in the right direction. I get a 40hz tone and put the bass boost to what? I just need help...

I don't know much about this battery, but was wondering how it worked. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_13167_Kinetik+HC16V+-KHC-16-.html Would it be possible to connect the 12v post to my normal system (12 volt alt), and connect the 16v post to the amp and have 16 volts on that side? From the description that's what it seems like, I was just wanting some clarification. Thanks

hi, im new to this whole forum thing but i need some help. i recently purchased 2 15" incriminator lethal injections and have them powered by a hifonics 1600 watt amp right now, im wanting an upgrade on my amp and extra battery and need some help on making a choice.......my 2 choices are the sundown saz-1500d or the rockford t1500-1bd......i also need an extra battery but dont know what brand....please help me out if you can....also would like to hear of any other amplifier options you may have. thanks

I have two giant bulldozer batteries in my barn, hold charge fine. All they say on them is Deka 8C12, 90 min, and extreme deep cycle. They are open cell with acid in them so that's why I'm worried. Would they work as secondary batteries in the back?

So I go to put my 3400 in after charging. It took it off the charger put it in the car check it with a DMM and reading 13.7v or so. So I hook everything up and start the truck. Voltage reads 15.1 then down to 14.8 on my stinger meter. I go to check my 3400 with a DMM and it reads 13.78v WTF. So I check my amp wires they read 14.8 WTF. So I check the 3400 again it still reads 13.78-13.79. Then I check my stock it's reading 14.8. My wires are ran like this Alt POS to POS on 3400 Alt POS to POS on stock POS from 3400 to POS on amp. My questions are. Is my amp wires reading 14.8 but my 3400 is reading 13.78? Is it because my 3400 is fully charged so it's not accepting the c…

About to be doing an install in a newer charger and a dash kit for an after market radio is like $500 so just tring to see what the best option would be if the customer is not trying to spend 500 on just a dash kit . . Just going to be adding a sub and amp

just got this idea sitting in econ today listening to my awful TA talk about derived demand for labor... I know normally the alt isn't used for transient loads, but would it be at all possible to hook up a power wire to the alt and send it straight to the amp, using a high capacity cap somewhere along the way to stiffen the voltage during amp draws? I was thinking that in this scenario, the cap would be acting just like a battery

my kw-nx7000 finally died. I am looking at this unit as a cheap replacement: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_42331_JVC-KD-X50BT.html. My goal is to find a cheap , reliable HU with bluetooth, ipod control, at least 2 RCA outputs. Thoughts?

Hey guys currently in the process of starting the big three. I've got my battery negative to chassis** done and my alternator positive to battery positive done. I'm still confused on the grounding. 1) Should I go from engine to battery negative and from frame to battery negative? 2) Should I go from engine to frame and then from that same frame spot to the battery negative? 3) Should I go from engine to the same chassis ground that is mentioned above**? And not ground the frame in the upgrade process? Any other suggestions??

ok i accedently hooked the rem turn on power to the output of the radio, and now no sound comes from it :angry: I beleive i have fucked up the internal amp on it...does anyone know a way to get a new one or have this fixed..

I think that the rca's might possibly be going bad on my pioneer DEH P6400. I am wanting to replace it but i dont want to buy a crappy one. what do u recommend that fits my budget of $200-$250? I prefer the look of flip down faces i dont really like seeing a cd slot in the face.And maybe a remote like my pioneer has

I have 3 of the old rockford 200x2 transana amps 2 of them i bought from a guy that swore they worked fllawlessly. Anyway I hooked them up to test them out, they paly fine until they have to play a low note, and then they clip i guess, until i turn the volume down a little and then they play fine. The other 200x2 I have doesnt do that at all I can play it all day long and it never does that. has anyone ever heard of such a problem?

I am working on a new system for my 350Z and was considering running active. I've never ran active before and have been reading around and have a decent idea of what to do, but I am stuck at what to use for processing. I have a double din sat nav puoneer hu and it doesn't have the ability to run acrive and I've noticed the MiniDSP and it's right in my price range. I've decided with the Mach 5 MLI 65's, I still need to measure for the tweeters, and for the amp I'm going to get the JL 300/4. Does this setup seem fine to run with the MiniDSP? Is it pretty complicated to set the MiniDSP through the computer? Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated, thanks.