Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

hey guys i'm planning on going for a sound quality system and my amp is a db3000 mono block amp and i saw that it has 4 speakers terminals. I've read around and it says that the amp is internally brigded but i'm still confused the 12 i was looking to go with soundsplinter 12 rl-p and i was looking to wire it to a 2ohm load giving it 950 watts but the terminals are still confusing so if someone could explain getting a 4ohm load, 2ohm load i would greatly appreciate

I currently have the Big Three (actually the Big Two) in 4 gauge. I was wondering if it was worth the money and time to buy some 1/0 and redo it. I have an AQ1200d, stock battery, stock 145amp alternator Any input in welcomed.

Have a guy that wants to trade me a pair of modified Stetsom 2K6D's for my pair of SoundStream 6500D's. the 2K6D's are modded and he has run them down to almost .25ohm before. He says at nationals last year, he strapped them and ran them on a 1.4DVC subwoofer and got over 9Kw out of the pair...? I hear they are pretty under rated but I have no personal experience, I know the 6500D clamped just over 4200 @ 1ohm on 13.8v~... EDIT: These are the older Stetsoms, not the newer "Vulcan" ones... what are your thoughts?

I am wondering what sized wire is sufficient to run from my amplifier to my subwoofer. It will be about 6 feet long and delivering approximately 1750-2000 watts rms.

so i got an offer ona kinetic hc2400 for 200. sounds like a good deal to me.... but i heard if you plan on running a H.O. alternator it will kill the kinetic batteries. Is this true? I wont know if i even need an alt untill i get the battery installed.

Well i sent the piece of junk db electric alternator back and went for a dc. cant wait for it to show up ill be sure to get pictures and even a video. from everything i see it should be awesome cant wait.

first i need to know if theis post should be in this section. i just need to know what type of speaker wire i need. im getting a FI 12" BL, do i get 16 gauge? or 12? how many feet? the amp will be right next to the box so im thinking something like 3-4 feet. the amp wire im thinking about getting is KLM 1/0 Amplifier Installation Kit by Knukonceptz. i also need to know the fuse type my amp will be a Hifonics BXi 1610D 1600W RMS, Brutus BXi Series Class D Monoblock Amplifier is that a good amp?!?!

If I have one battery, is a good or bad idea to run the negative cable from the amp to the battery? Did the chasis have more resistance than, let say, 14ft of 4 gauge cable? I'm asking that because I read that grounding the amplifier at the battery minimize voltage drop, don't know if that is true.

i was wondering if i could power one rl-p 18 with an aq2200d. would i get the sub in d4 and wire it in parallel to get a 2 ohm load, (which is 1300watts ). or should i get d2 and wire it in series to get a 4 ohm load? (740 watts) the soundsplinter website says 500 to 1000watts.

i am looking for a new h/u.... ive been looking around for one with what i want and in my price range but just cant find one... any suggestions i am looking for a single DIN either 6.5" or 7" motorized unit with usb... in around the $500 price range

Alright, read thru the pinned topic for this, seems easy enough..but im doing something wrong.. im usin an old school volt meter but it has "ACV 200 and ACV 500" .. i set it to ACV 200 (AC volts)..the amp is a Sundown SAZ1500D running at 1 ohm so... voltage = sqrt (1500 * 1) voltage = 38.72 ish.. can someone verify that please... so i pop in the 50hz test tone, loud off, bass boost off..volume to 3/4 and I stick the voltmeter to the outputs of the amp.. it tells me 2.8 and up to 5.something at full gain.. something is wrong just not sure what. appreciate any help.

I was looking at the Alpine PDX 2.150 to run the Clarus 61-2 comps. I talked with Scott and he says that the PDX is not a really good SQ amp. He did mention the new JL HD amps. I'm looking for a amp like these that are small, don't get hot because it will be located in the cargo compartment in my Trailblazer.

It states 1300 @ 2ohms at 14.4v. I currently have an MD2D on my RL-p 18" @ 2 ohms, but it's only getting around 800 rms. I was thinking of swapping them out, but i'm not to sure on the rated power for the Infinity.

I drive a 2001 GMC Jimmy 4 door with a 4.3L Vortec V6 and want a 200 amp or so alternator to replace my stock one with and would like recommendations on what companies to look at. I am considering Excessive Amperage, Mean Green, PowerMaster and KnuKonceptz. There were others but I forgot them. Any feedback is appreciated.

I was reading about the PG tantrum 1200.1. I have a 13w7 in a prowedge box. Im gonna wire it in series to push a 3ohm load, would this amp be efficient for that setup? The amp I believe is 2 ohm stable, i hear its much easier to use a 2ohm stable amp rather than finding a .5ohm stable amp.

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I am redoing a car that has 2 concept cc-d2400's. I'm thinking about going with 2 cdx-20a's, are they strappable? what are the full specs, S/N, etc...? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hi there, Can you guyz tell me whether there are other brand (amps) that has "Time Alignment" feature besides ZAPCO's DC Reference? Thanks for your help, Kelvin

cant afford car audio batts till end of summer but have 4 batts with 1100 cranking amps and 5 with 800 cranking amps with 270a ho alt , are all these enough for 2 bc3500s strapped to 2 ohms. big 3 and 3 runs pos and 3 neg front to back all 0 gauge

anyone have any expierence with these amps ?? i found someone willing to trade one for my 2 hifonics brz2400.1 amps and some cash... just wanna make sure it does 10kwrms though before i trade....

i have been looking into going into after market for my car alarm and i have looked at reviews and a lot of them point out the Viper 5901. I know with the viper alarms you have to have them installed by a professional installer in order to retain the warranty. I am just looking for an alarm that will notifiy me if my vehcile is getting broken into etc, shock sensors are a plus as well as other cool features but if there are better out there for the price then let me know. Thanks in advance, just looking to get something that i could run outside and catch the person in the act and or call the cops etc.

ok so i figured id give em a try and ordered a h/o alt from db electrical. suppose to be 200a at 1200 rpm n 105a at idle, but wats idle to them? im running a sundown sae 1200 v2 at 1 ohm so around 1500w rms. when im driving down the road the most ive seen voltage drop is about .5 volts on very low hard hitting songs. that part is wat i do like. wat i dont like is when i pull up to a stoplight or stop sign voltage sits at 13.1 with nothing on, 12.6-9 with my lights on. if im in park at idle voltage will sit around 13.9 but if i do anything, roll down a window, turn on the air or heat it drops dramatically, windows pull it down to low 13s(thats one window at a time, rolling…

ive been into car audio for three years mostly kicker but i decided to upgrade i have a rd1750.1 and a sundown nightshade v1 d1 15 i am new to hi end car audio so can someone tell me what voltage my output should be to have my gain set correctly at 2 ohms which is 840 watts and at point five which is 2225 watts please would appreciate the help dont wanna clip my new set up

http://www.petitiononline.com/hca00001/petition.html heres the original thread on SMD: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...mp;#entry534741

Which is better Passive or Active? After askin on other threads i figured out the difference, but not sure which one is best. All i can figure is Passive would be better because you can use one channel of amplification and get 2 or 3 way crossover, and have that one channel power 2 or 3 speakers. So = better use of power. For Active you need one channel for one speaker. so more power is required by needing more channels, but that give you more control, right? Will one sound better than the other?