Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Linertec BASSPRO-4000 Mono 4000w Amplifier Digital Class-D Mono Block Amplifier Stable into 1 ohm load workable PWM Mosfet power supply Input sensitivity (gain) control variable 24db octave crossover slope Variable Low Pass filter (Lpf) Variable bass boost Variable subsonic filter Multi-way protection circuitry (thermal / over current / speaker short / speaker DC Protection Tested voltage & THD : 14.4v & less than 1% THD Operating voltage : DC 10v - 15.5v Max Power : 4000w ( 1 x 4000w ) Rated power output RMS @ 1ohm : 1000w x 1 RMS @ 2ohm : 660w x 1 RMS @ 4ohm : 380w x 1 Signal to Noise Ratio : >90db Low pass crossover : 35hz - 300hz High Pass Crosso…

how much resistance is too much on a grounding point? Ive already read that under 1ohm is optimal but after doing some checks i'm just not going to get that in the rear in comparison to the front. my lowest reading in the back was between 1.8-2.1 Is that good enough? My next question is on the power wire. I'm using the rear battery as a distro for my amps. measuring from front to rear then from amp to the the end of the wire is normal. but when i connect all to the battery the rear battery and measure I'm getting 30+ ohms on all connections in the rear even on the wire that is coming from the front battery. also this occurs on both ground and power wires. the battery is …

Ive got a few questions for those of you that have this amp or have owned it at one time.. i remember reading somewhere the 3000 was only stable down to 2 ohms, but im seeing it on ebay advertised as 1 ohm stable.. true or false? also the power and ground inputs on the amp... 0 gauge or 4 ga like the 1500? thinkin about picking this amp up .. maybe.. thanks.

Me personally do not like threads like the one i am making currently.. but i just need suggestions for my brother. He's getting (2) 15" BTLs for a 99 Dodge Dakota RT. I need amp suggestions, either.. (2) 2k amps that can be strapped OR (1) 4k amp The amps can be around 2k or 4k. We've thought about AQ2200 and SAZ-4500D Thanks, BanginGMC.

I'm wondering will a active head unit solve my problem. I have a jbl gto 1201.1 II and it doesnt have a subsonic filter. I probably going to get a Alpine 9887.

Hi guys, I've been driving a lot more now and I was looking to get some better sounds since my current set up is factory. I'm hoping to spend around $600 NZD (~$400 USD) on it all. Here's what I've been looking at so far Amplifier http://www.parallelimported.co.nz/jvc-ks-ax4550-4-channel-power-amplifier.html#first Speakers http://www.onlinecaraudio.co.nz/?p=productsMore&iProduct=1199&sName=fusion-en-cm650 and http://www.parallelimported.co.nz/alpine-sps-600-speakers.html or http://www.parallelimported.co.nz/car-audio/car-speakers/alpine-sps-400-speakers.html Head Deck Unit http://www.parallelimported.co.nz/car-audio/head-decks/sony-xplod/sony-cdxgt-480u-…

CAP50 - Alumapro 50 Farad Capacitor/Distribution Center Whats your oppinions on these? This guy I work with used to be a car audio installer, and we were talking today and he was swearing by this saying that is was better than a regular capacitor, better than a battery. He was saying it keeps your voltage at 14.4 no matter what. I was just wondering if anyone here has used them or has any first hand experience them offer up your oppinions. No I don't believe in capacitors Im not a cap fanatic or anything but he swore up and down it was different so I just figured it'd be worth it to get you guys oppinions.

I have been reading around on some build logs and people are saying that they have an amplifier that is "clamped". What does this mean? I have been googling around with no luck (so far).

I don't want to use any of the wiring that comes from my truck. How would I run new wire and what wires would I have to include? I don't need speaker wires because my amp powers my speakers Head Unit is http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entertainment/In-Dash_CD_n_DVD_Receivers/1-DIN_CD_Receiver/KDC-MP342U Truck in sig.

Is the DMM method a fairly accurate way to measure the watts output of an amplifier? I set the meter on AC volts, connect leads to speaker terminals (w/ subwoofer still hooked up), play a sinewave burp and take that reading to determine how many watts went to the sub. Does that sound correct? I already set the gains w/ an o-scope so I'm not trying to do that. I want to calculate how many watts actually is going to my sub thanks

wonder if I should install my phoenix gold bass cube? we have to play a song supplied from the judges for spl and sq categories. You guys think it would make a difference?

let me break it down for u what im currently running n what i want to. Pioneer hu 6950ub 1 15' kicker L7 in a 3.83 cft box tuned to 33 hz 1 Solid audio f2000 giving around 900rms to the sub a pair of 6*9 pioneer D series powered by Solid audio Ms42 auxil rca's Stinger 1/0 ground n power wires Stinger Distribution block n fuses 110 amp single 12.5v batt 80 amp alt (stock) In Honda civic 05 Big3 Daily driver. music preference: hip hop Now im planning to upgrade my system to a single Fi 18 BTL. i can manage 7 cft with ease. i also hav a brand new DDz1 amp to power it .. ill probably buy 2 stinger spv44s but the main question is that do i have to change my stock alterna…

hey so i was digging through my basement the other day and i came across the amp i used for the sub in my very first car it was an audiobahn A2300E i had forgotten all about this thing, i tested it yesterday with my recently retired infinity reference 12 and it sounded pretty good i can't find any information on it anywhere, the only thing i have found is someone saying that "they believe it is 210 rms bridged at 4 ohms" this seems pretty possible since it only has 1 30 amp fuse i would of course be running 4 ohms per channel on 100w rms speakers, so this seems perfect for me, i know audiobahn isn't great, but i already own it so i might as well make use of it. what ar…

so ive done the big 3 upgrade with 0 gauge wire. have a solid ground from amplifier to frame. yet my amplifier is getting hot and shuts off. input sensitivity is st to 85% db gain is at 0 subsonic bass set to middle frequency level is set to middle what could be causing the over heating?? LOW VOLTAGE??

One of these will be my next amp. The T1500 may or may not be the CP version. I will decide that if I decide to go with the RF amp. Will be powering two DC lvl3 15's.

Hey, Recently my MB Quart DSC4125 bit the dust and waiting to see if it can be fixed under warranty. Anyways, I have an 8" orphan from Sound Splinter and was wondering what Amp would be good to run it? Either Mono(for sub) and a 2channel to run a pair of Infinity Kappa 682.9cf's or a 4 channel amp again so i can run the sub along with the speakers. Having a hard time finding an amp for a 6ohm woofer that's sweet spot is at 500W. As for budget, not looking to get crazy expensive, say if possible around $300. Just need to be pointed in the right direction. Thanks.

If you follow my build log you'll see I'm gonna be running an aq 2200 to an 18 btl at 1 ohm. My car has a 135 amp alt but I'm pretty sure ill need some batts. I have room for 2 large batteries but I'm unsure of what kind. Would 2 of the everstart maxx batts from walmart work? Or do I have to use a deep cycle battery? Also do I have to replace my batt under the hood? Also do I have to match my batteries in the trunk with my main battery? Big 3 will be done all wire will be 1/0 also. Thanks if more info is needed please let me know.

I'm going to get a fi bl 12 with a SAZ-1000D amp and i was wondering if i needed anther battery or alternator or anything like that. my car is a 1997 honda accord lx and everything is stock.

i have a 130 amp alt and a ever start battery up front i'm buying a audiopipe 15001d i was wondering if that would be sufficient for that amp if not i was thinking of a shuriken bt60 60ah and 1500 amps i want as minimal voltage drop as possible

In the market for one. so far have looked into db, irragi, cbr electronics, nations, mechman, and just recently spring hill. I've heard of people having issues with mechman and irragi but after doing some reading there could be other reasons why their units failed. Any input on any of these? right now I'm leaning more towards spring hill autoelectric simply because they offer more options for upgrading ie i can order just the parts i need and upgrade the alternator myself and save $100+ that and their customer service has been very responsive about answering my thousand questions. even on the weekend which i thought odd... Anyone have any dealings with them either??

Hi I think i am going to get one 15" BTL because if i got 2 of them then i would need a new alternator, but can anyone tell me if i am going to need a larger alternator with just one 15" BTL along with a ton of power cells, or could i fly with just power cells to back it up. Also do you need a new receiver or can i be fine with a receiver and a line-out converter??

hey does anyone know where to get an h/o alternator in canada or one to canada for cheap it's for a 2.2l sunfire they are really hard to find

I need the biggest and best batt I can possibly get my hands on. Not looking too spend over $1000 for 2 and the battery can not be over 800 sq in. Im going to be having 2 RD D5 each wired at .25 ohms on it and am only allowed 2 batteries total. I already no my voltage is going to drop extremely low, thats why I need to know what my best options are for 2 batteries. I am going to be having a 350 amp alt too fyi

Ok a lot to go through but ill start with my Saz 1500d wired @ 1ohm to a nightshade 18 d2, i have a 106ah marine batt up front big 3 in 1/0 with all grounds secured to chassis HU is alpine 9883 car is a 1978 ford Ltd. alt was upgraded to 100 amps from 60 (awaiting HO alt). Voltage checked before and after all fuses 14 with car on 12 with car off, previously the remote lead went out on the HU so i ran a toggle switch via jumper wire and all was fine. The problem started after i finished the big 3 everything was going smooth at full tilt voltage staying above 13 volts then after about 10 min of play with car running amp stopped playing no protect light or anything so i…

I think my current wire from the alt is 8 gauge. It goes into a solenoid or something before the wire goes to the battery. I can't upgrade the wiring to 1/0 straight from the alternator to battery. Since my alternator is placed in the middle side of the engine. I tried getting to it but is impossible. Gotta pull the engine up or take most of the parts off it. So frustrating. Would it matter much about the alternator to batt wire size? Since the output on the alt isn't switched I'm just running stock alt.