Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I just ordered two 12" aa havoc's which are 1250 rms. What would be a good amp to run on these. I was looking at sundowns but didnt know if i shoudl wait for there new 2500 watt amp to come out or what

hello i need amp wt these specs for my jbl gt 4 1000 watt 2 woofers please suggest me a good a amp 125W/2 ohms bridged mono (bridging into 4 ohms). Amp should have 4 channels each rated for 125W/2 ohms.

ok tell me if this is right a 1000wrms sub @ 1ohm on a saz1500 the gain should read 31.6 on the dmm. ok other then the gain what should i set the subsonic and my lpf at? the box its in is 3.5ft^3 tuned at 40 hz. i really need this help b4 my sub gets murdered thanx in advance to whoever helps me

My friend is installing his eclipse avn52d headunit in his 05 hyundai sonata. I've had a little more experience with it so I was helping him. We got everything squared away and now came time to turn on the car and test it. The headunit came on but there was no sound coming out of the speakers. I double checked wiring. Still nothing. Went to the biggest audio shop around town and they told me to check a few things and I did that still nothing. They said the car might have a factory amp and that is why the speakers arn't working because the amp isn't see power, which made sense but when I did what they told me it didn't work. I am trying to search the internet and see …

My truck currently has a stock 160amp alternator, and a yellow top under the hood...I'm doubting this will be enough to power a saz-3500d @ 1.33ohm and a sax-125.2. I'm not planning on running the system with the engine off for long periods of time... Any advice as far as what kind of performance I could expect (if any), or if my stock alternator would even work for this application?

im running a pioneer AVP3100 dvd and my question is im trying to hook up a toggle switch to the picture wire the from the HU ( supposed to be hooked up to the E brake) so i can see dvds while trying on trips and i hooked it up to toggle switch+ and ground the other side to chassis but it wont work... and it worked when it was in my other car 3 weeks ago. its not the same toggle switch that i had before. its a little smaller but still the regular old easy toggle switchon/off switch , + / - wire leads)... anybody know why it wouldnt work?? could it be the toggle switch?? or would anybody else know how to wire that up so it will play dvds? thatnks in advance

i have a par of rockford powers in the front, 75 watt rms, and a pair of alpine typse s in the back, 85 watt rms. about what size amp do i need?

So I see aftermarket h/o alts can be regulated upwards to 15v but I also see others doing 16v+. So is 15v safe to run on stock electrical but 16v+ needs changing wiring and fuses? I'm more interested in actually having the alt do 16v, not 18v charging 16v battery So what's involved in running alts with 16v in a car safely?

How much stronger would the 2 aq2200d @ 1 ohm strapped be compare to 1 aq3500d old one @ 1 ohm on 2 dd3512? Running a 180 amp alternator with 2 kinetik 2400 and 1 kinetik 1400 in the back. Would this even be enough to run the 2 aq2200d? This would be a daily driver.

What is the best way to set your crossover setting on your amp and headunit? Can you leave your amp a little higher, then adjust from your hu when needed or should they both be set on the same HZ? What would be the best frequency for 2 DD350012e in a trunk setup? Currently I am set at 80 hz on my radio and about 90 hz on the amp. Bass boost is at 0, do you recommend using the bass boost or does this do more harm than help to your subs?

Looking for new mids and high amp, came across soundstream HRU.2 does anyone have experience with this amp? Thanks

I let it sit for a bit and I guess from what I read online that if it gets a little dust on or in it. The cd player doesn't eject cds. There is a disk in there that plays fine. It can't eject it though. How would I fix this?

hello guys i was wondering would it be ok to run 1 sub that is 150 watts rms off a 4 channel amp and run front speakers in a car on the other 2 channels of the amp ?

I was just installing my pioneer avh 4200 and while i was pushing the headunit in my yellow wire came undone and must have grounded because the unit shut off. When I connected the yellows back together the unit would not turn on. But once I touch the yellow with a constant 12v connection it turns on. Is there a way i can fix my yellow wire or would i have to tap into another wire? Everytime I turn off the unit it will reset because the yellow wire isn't working. BTW it is an explorer 2003. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

i have a budjet of 350$ im looking at the hifonics 2600 or the power acoustic 5500 does any one have any sugestions to witch is better to run my 12 fi btl daily driver 2ohm w/cooling best ?

Couple weekends ago I was at a car show and a hertz sales rep was talking massive trash about sundown amps (and other non-mainstream companies). He stated that it is impossible for sundown amps and other amps of similar build to do rated power on strictly pcb board. he said hertz amps had a solid copper plate underneath the circuitry to deal with producing high current (1000watts+ or whatever). So my question is, do sundown amps (and others) have any plating underneath the boards? If not, then how do they handle all the current without frying? I'm not in any way, shape or form questioning sundown quality (as I have a saz-1500d myself , but just interested in how all this …

Alright.. just recently bought and installed a set of the zapco i-6 component's. .. running them off a MBQuart 4125..Let me get to the problem im having.. my Volume knob can go up to 60 i believe... when i crank up the volume to say 47 my high's (the zapco components) sound as if someone put a pillow over them.. then as i turn the volume down to around 30ish it clears back up.. I at first thought maybe something internally came loose in the amp since its mounted to the box with my 18" BTL in it.. so I cut the subs out of the equation completely.. still does it at around the same volumes.. This was a problem i was having with my old 6.5" Eclipse door speakers i had before …

I'm running two atomic 5000.1's with 5 C&D Batteries (93ah maxrate ones) with 0awg all over and a 280a XS Power alternator. Now I can say straight off my power supply isnt adequate for all day booming but for short bursts (15 odd mins) its fine. Add to that I'm in the UK and our cars are tiny compared to your guys in the states so space is always an issue. Now my question is my batteries rest at 12.4-6 which seems very low to me ? I have a Ctek 25000 and was wondering should I give the recondition mode a try ? Any one got any general advice as hardly anyone runs these batteries in the UK.

Alright, I just put a new Fi Btl 18 in my 97 dodge ram 2500. It is diesel and has a h/o alternator and duel batteries. I was using a power acustik OVN1 5500D amp. It is connected to a battery with zero gauge wire for both the positive and ground. The gain was only turned up about half way with the BTL running at 1 Ohm. I did not listen to it all that loud, however one day the bass cut out and then the amp started to smoke. I immediately shut off the radio and felt the amp. It was cool to the touch. The amp was only in for a week and had only been used maybe three times.... When I got home I turned the radio back on and the LED indicator came on but no power is coming out …

I have a Carver 2090mi that I got back in 93 It's gotta be the cleanest and for it's size the most powerful little amp I've ever owned. I used it to run 2 4 ohm 12 inch kicker stilwater designs that I got in 92 and yes they still rock, I want to incorporate it with my new setup and have lost and forgot the specs. I've tried and was unsuccessful in locating them. Maybe someone from the olden days knows.

I have an autotek mm1400.1d on a DD 9512g wired at one ohm. I set the gain using the pinned tutorial above. I bought the amp used, and my voltage hasn't dropped below 12.5 volts yet.. it usually hovers around 13-13.5 volts. Also, the amp doesn't seem to be getting too hot either. Could the problem be that the amp is damaged? Thanks

Ive decided i wanted to go 2-way active with my new system im buying. Problem is I dont know which is better or more cost efficient. The decks ive been looking at are : pioneer prs 800, kenwood x991, clarion drz9255, Eclipse CD7200mkii and as far as active crossovers i dont know who to look at besides audiocontrol but i figure if im gonna pay almost $400 might as well buy a new deck. What would any of yall recommend?

hello ppl i have 2 jbl gt4 1000watts subs 250RMS which amp would be best to power up my subs

How much of a difference between Stinger and Sound Quests line of pure oxygen free copper power wire. Is it pretty much the same with a different package.

Is it me but I just bought an hd radio and it sounds terrible. I thought it was suppose to be cd quality. I will agree than the sound stage widens and more clarity with the highs and lows. But it's also accompanied with an electronic (synthesized) sound. Kind of like a subtle robot voice in the background. Which I don't experience with analog signals.