Subwoofers / Speakers

I'm in the market for a sub but not sure if I need to buy a dual 1 ohm or dual 2 ohms voice coil. Furthermore, how should I wire it in series or parallel. What are the pros/cons of a D1 vs a D2? Then what are the pros/cons of wiring up the coils in series vs parallel? I'll be running a 12" sub with a Soundstream Rubicon 702 which does 700 watts RMS X 1 at 2 and 4 ohms bridged. Also does 350W X 1 at 8 ohms bridged.

Got these for free and I need help identifying these for a budget build in my Dad's neon :/. Both aren't going in, just trying to figure out which one to use and what model that JL is... thanks for the help!

I have been looking at the Loaded SSA Icon, the Fi Bl, SI Mag, and a couple other subs but cannot decide on a size. I want to keep most of my cargo are in my Durango, but want to ensure that my sub will get plenty loud. Will a single 12 with 1,200-1,600 watts be up to the task of getting loud or should I sacrifice a little more room and go with a 15? Also, I would like to be able to run sealed if possible but ported will be fine, retain some SQ, while feeling it in my chest, if possible. Any help would be great.

Well, since the mags went on backorder i went to a shop owned by my cousin, and he hooked me up w/ an L7 12", on a price i couldn't really resist. sooo, after 2 days of hell making my box, i finally put it in the Jeep about an hour ago, and have been able to get an idea of what it can do (turned the amp's gain up to 4v for about 1 min.. JBL 1200.1). I'm using my friends 1200.1, and i'm very suprised at what this sub did for not being broken in, and being in a 2.2 cube box tuned to 43 hz. the box is as close to kicker "street bass" as i can get. :boink: :boink: but wow, this L7 blows the doors off the HC i had in there in terms of output hands down. They were bot…

i am talking to Rusty about purchasing a lvl5 18 for my setup. it will be run off a zx2500.1 if i decide to go this route. any feedback on the performance of this sub? i have never heard them or see them work so i am going off of my limited audio knowledge. they will be in about 8 cubes ported in the trunk of a lincoln towncar. my goal is just daily street beating. is this sub more of an spl or sq sub? probably spl but i ask anyway

Best 10" that'll work in .8 with 7.5 mounting depth? $600 is for both amp & sub. This is gonna be for an sq system in a g35 coupe so gobs of output isn't a requirement.

I'm looking to get rid of my Atlas and find something that will work within this situation: I have 450w @ 4ohms to power the sub, needs to work in an enclosure no bigger than 2.5 cubes gross (the smaller the better), I would like something that will play into the 20hz range as flat as possible, and I'm looking to keep the price of the sub below $150 (or whatever I get for the Atlas). Sealed or ported, as long as I can package the whole deal within 2.5 cubes, I'll be good to go.

I know you are not suppose to take efficiency into consideration but what if you were comparing 2 different subs from the same company? I had been thinkin about goin with 4 Lvl4 15s and they have an efficiency rating of 89.4 The Lvl4 XL 18s have an efficiency rating of 94.77?!?! So... 4 15s efficiency should be 95.4 and 2 of the 18s should be 97.77... am i to assume that the 2 18" XLs are gonna kill the 4 15s? I know 4 15s may have more surface area but efficiency plays a role in that and apparently, it doesnt apply here. Lookin for some crazy numbers in the lanes and just wonderin if i'm bout to buy the wrong thing...

Here's a couple pictures of the moving assembly of a Magnum 12 (the coin is a quarter - I put it there just for a reference).

Alright so I just purchased a Sundown Audio SAX 1200d about a month ago and I have it running on an 18" Fi SSD and.. Yep its not enough bass for me obviously. I already planned on upgrading subs eventually but I just purchased the Sax 1200 so I most likely won't be upgrading amps for a while. So... If I buy a 18" Fi BTL and I only have this sax 1200 for a while ( Probably 6 months or more) will I even notice much of a difference in performance as in being louder just from switching to the 18 btl since it is still the same power source (amp) running the new sub. Like will the BTL be louder on the 1200w then another 18 ( ssd )on the same 1200w.. I mean I'm putting basically…

Bought a 2013 jeep wrangler 2 dr a few weeks back, and it definitely needs some audio upgrades. have been looking at components, but still pretty new to them and looking for any advice or guidance on what to look for before I waste my money. So far i have been looking at the following. Around $200 Jbl ms62- seems to have pretty good feedback id ctx, cxs- mixed reviews sundown 6.5cs- not alot of feedback but seems positive other than a few "lacking tweeter" comments massive ck6x - Haven't seen much on these crescendo mezzo- not out yet, look good, but tweeter may not work with stock location on dash? Around $100 pioneer d series- mostly positve some negative tweeter…

So i had 2 l7 12s under my back seat... it was weak... so i took the backseat out and i told my buddy brian to build me a box (brian owns and manages evolutiuons car audio Lone Grove, OK) but anyways, i was expecting a huge box, instead he said 2 ported boxes at 3.3 cub would create the loudest setup at all possibilities. ill be pushing the l7s with a kicker 1500.1 zx. how loud am i looking? as far as DB wise... and was his plan correct??

I know that too small a port area will lead to port noise, but what happens if you have excessive port area? For example 20 sq inches per cubic ft of volume? I know many manufactures recommend 12-16 inches per cubic foot of volume, but is there a downside to going over this?

As most of you know I unloaded my xcons below tuning and did some damage. Only one had visible damage and I corrected that with some devcon epoxy. Now that they are both back in and playing my wife and I both agree that they have lost output. Is this possible? Could I have done enough non visible damage to the soft parts that they would lose noticeable output? I assumed they might be a little sloppy now from stressing the spiders, but to lose output? Thanks in advance.

Hi guyz, I'd like to know a few things: Can the 5" midbass in the Clarus line be bought individually? What is the mounting depth? I have 250rms of clean power, what crossover frequency would you recommend? 125hz @ 18dB ok? or higher? Here's what I am planning: Eclipse CD7200mkII Image Dynamics CD1Ev.3 horns -- DLS A2 HAT Clarus 5" -- DLS A4 bridged Stereo Integrity BM 12" (when released) -- DLS A2 I want to put the subwoofer underneath the driver's seat in my BMW 316ti. Believe I have enough space. Since I am not concerned about subwoofer localization (LP 80hz and less). I can LP the sub higher @ for example 200hz @ 18dB. (I know this is not subwoofer material but just wa…

Hey, whats the biggest subs you guys think that will work good in my hatch? Its about 39" wide. Top of back seat headrest to the curve at the back, depth is about 18-19". Depends on how high you go from the floor. Floor to the back of the headrest is 16.5-17". I was thinking about doing two 18" Xcons with a sundown 3500. But I don't think I have the room. I would like to be as loud as possible and sound good. Thanks.

ive been lurking on smd for a while now and got some DD's about 2 months ago, im happy but they have been a pain in the ass, squishy dust caps, weird sounds on highs and just over all unpleasantness of them, so ive turned my eyes to some new pretty ssd12's i want to keep my m3b seeing i paid a SH** ton for it, would 2 12''ssds be ok on that power(about 1200 each) havent yet clamped it to see but according to the birth sheet at one ohm thats what itd would be. my box dims are about 5.2 net so about 2.6 each at 34hz with a 5 in port 26 inches long. now final statement, would these bad boys handle all this?

My JL XR tweeters finally gave out on me after 5 years of service and I am looking at upgrading to a 6.5" set of components from my current 5.25s. I am looking at the Bravox CS60K's on the group buy due to the phenomenal price and what appears to be some serious quality speakers. Does anyone know what the mounting depth is on the 6.5 mid? Also, does anyone have any feedback on this component set? Good punchy midbass, crisp clean highs? I have a good deal of power to send to them (MTX 4160, I know REAL old school) and an AudioControl EQS to clean up the sound.

A friend of mine is trying to decide between a pair of Treo TSX 12s sealed or 2 JL Audio W3v3 13.5s sealed. He can get JL and Treo subs are very good prices. Either set will be powered off 700 watts. Which would get louder with that power sealed?

So I bought 2 15" polk/momo subs off crutchfield (way before I found this site) and they rock my Geo very well. The other morning on the way to work (my beautiful biweekly commute from Sac to Fresno, Ca on the nasty smelling 99) bumping as usual, I smelled something funny besides the highway and quickly realized it was the subs. I know I had too much power going to them ( Hifonics BXI2006) from the start but used it anyway. So before I could turn it down the subs shut off...then the smoke started coming from the port holes and I thought the box was going to start on fire driving down the road! So today I pulled the speakers out to expecting to find something fried but..…

lately i've heard quite a few bigger name companies have used various TC sounds motors on their own sub lineups, and i'm wondering, is it possible to salvage the motors (and baskets?) to recone these subs? If so, which models should i be looking out for? I know Eclipse used some in their Ti and 8200 range, and Lightning Storm, Ground Zero etc, but i think Eclipse are going to be the easiest to track down. Also, who can recone these, and to what size? I've found that Fi can recone them in this thread, but it looks like their baskets arent a great fit for most motors. Any help appreciated guys

Hello, I recently set out to upgrade my 2015 F-150 xlt with left over parts from my dad's truck after he passed. Well, long story short, half way through the process I realized all of his stuff was crap, or super old. I currently have Alpine Type R 6x9's in the front, and Type R 6.5 coaxials in the rear door, with a Alpine PDX F6 powering those, and I have 2 12" Orion subs from the 90's 400 watt rms, with an Alpine PDX 1000.1 powering them in a sealed down firing box under my rear seats. The box has 1.32 total cu ft. and are 5-1/4" mounting depth. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TOTRB0K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 …

Hey guys, I got a friend looking to upgrade her factory front stage. She was thinking about these... http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_i...roducts_id=1466 http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_i...roducts_id=1125 These will be powered with a RF 800.4. I'm not sure about this at all. The budget is around what it would cost for the speakers mentioned. If you have any suggestions, please let me know. She listens to a lot of R&B and alternative rock. Just looking for a clean sound up front.

Well I have a SI 12" sub thats been in my room all winter waiting to be installed. Well then early spring I decided to change almost my entire system. I now have a Arc Audio 2500XXK to run my sub. This is one sick powerful amp at 1 Ohm which I plan to run that way for 1050+ watts. Anyway, I entertained the idea of putting 2 12" subs in my car, but then realized due to space problems in my trunk, that would not be a good idea. So now I am wondering with that amp, should I go with a single 15" instead? I assume the box would be a little bigger, then the box for the 12" but not nearly as big as what two 12" would take up!

Well, I am looking to make myself a home sub to augment my Bowers and Wilkins DM603 S3 towers bottom end. I am looking at the BM 12" and was wondering how well it would work in a home environment, what size enclosure and whether it should be ported or sealed. Also, I just wonder when these will be available for purchase as I assume you approved the new design since its up on your site.