Subwoofers / Speakers

List, from 1 to 5, the top five component sets (of any size) that in your opinion, sound the best. If they were a custom set, list the raw drivers and tweeters. - Steve

previous set up was a 2way; sls 8 midbass in the doors w/ a kx250.2 powering them, and a Peerless 830986 on a kicker zx100.2 in/on the a pillars. plus the mj18 ib. hu is a clarion dzx785usb (i think thats the model number irrc) problems with previous setup were that it looked bad and my attempt to fg new pods didn't improve it. it was also lacking the upper midbass region, either the 3 wouldn't play low enough or the sls wouldn't play high enough. im looking to move the midrange to the kick's and add a tweeter to the a-pillars or kicks aswell(if i dont use a full range again). (note: since i had a set of polk tweeters laying around i threw them in the a-pillar to fill …

Hey guys, so I am making a LOUD daily pounder with a good possibility for competition. I keep reading stuff about adding midbass up front. At the moment I am planning on running 4 12's (either havocs or BLs) in the back off of about 6k watts total (probably 2 sundowns for amps). I am lookin at RF 5.25" comp sets for the doors (at least up front), more than likely an entire set per side, 1 speaker+tweet in the door and one in the A-pillar. Will I be needing midbass??? And if so, is it okay to put that in something like a kick panel instead of doing MAJOR refab work to the door?

Hey, my friend was given a sub that nobody has been able to identify. It's a 15" w/ a standard 4 spoke aluminum basket, triple stacked mags and i believe d2 voice coil config. on the front it is very standard looking with a normal convex dustcap that has a bunch of weird graphics in white and the logo of a company that i know that i have seen before. It looks like a diamond shpe thats half black and half white, with a smaller diamond inside of it that is the same but the color is opposite on each side. gonna try and get some pics up tomorrow. this thing is beefy and we need to come up with a better box for it

I'm looking to get rid of my Atlas and find something that will work within this situation: I have 450w @ 4ohms to power the sub, needs to work in an enclosure no bigger than 2.5 cubes gross (the smaller the better), I would like something that will play into the 20hz range as flat as possible, and I'm looking to keep the price of the sub below $150 (or whatever I get for the Atlas). Sealed or ported, as long as I can package the whole deal within 2.5 cubes, I'll be good to go.

i have a 08zx750.1 kicker mono amp and i have been looking into the ia lethal injection sub but not sure what type of inclosure to go with. If you are using this sub what spec inclosure do you recommend im looking with going with a porter box but unsure what port tune and size.According to reaserching 32hz sounds good but is it good for my type of music hip-hop/trance your input is appreciated.

Ok heres the story, i have a 1994 grand prix. Right now ive got 2 infinity woofers @700 watts total power, and right now im the loudest system in my city (yeah not many of us are into car audio) but yesterday a kid from school walks up to me and tells me hes getting 2 audiobahn competition subs for $600 bucks each and hes going to run 1600 watts to it. Now i tried explaining to him that audiobahn flat out sucks but wouldnt listen to me. So for braggoing rights of course i have to get a louder system than that (my infinities are loud but not THAT loud). The big question is should i need just 1 15" D2 or should i go with 2? i am going for exreme spl here b.t.w.

Wired my sub + to + - to - and took 1 + and 1 - out to the amp. Dual 2 ohm icon is the sub. I know I hooked it up like that on the speaker but completely forgot which wire was negative and positive lol. Rather not pull the sub at this point. 1. What is another method of figuring out what is what and 2. What kind of damage if any can come from this? At the amp I'm reading exactly 1.0 no matter how I hook the probes up to it

Hi i was wondering how these comps sounded what do you guys think about the rms being 50 watts? please let me know. heres the link http://cgi.ebay.com/RE-AUDIO-RE6-5COMP-6-1...1QQcmdZViewItem Thanks a lot Billy

Hi guys, my first post. Anyways, I currently have 3x MB Quarts PW 302 subwoofers powered by a Rockford Fosgate 1501BD mono amp running at 1.3 Ohms stable. The problem is, I really don't like the sound quality / bass from the MB Quart subwoofers. Now I'm considering replacing them for 3x 12" SI D2 subwoofers. Will I be better off with those subwoofers? And are they better with bass and tight response in contrary to the MB Quart subwoofers? I mostly listen the following music: Techno, hardtrance, hardstyle and hardcore. Which all need a good low/deep bass but still very accurate and responsive. Help please. Thanks.

Another round of testing done this past weekend. This time, using the MJ-18 in a 250 litre Sono-like tube. Check it out if you have a moment: http://testbed.mach5audio.com Best regards, Mark

Hello all. Hope you`re all doing fine I strill haven`t had a chance to alter the Escort install. But I have been messing about with my vectras boot install. Check this out: See this weird box... 6th Order bandpass or simply a tunnel in a boot. This box is far better than any box I have ever made It plays low. It plays loud. It plays a very wide musical frequency with accuracy and is practically flat in it`s overall frequency response. O.K. The system specs. Vectra Sri - Boot System. 1x HMM Box- That`s what I`m calling it - After the ideas from a guy called Henry & Mazdawg & Me making the thing to see what happens. 1x SPLd S-1200d (1200wrms @ 1ohm) 2x Brand n…

Well I need some advise on which one of these 8's is better for everyday use? I already have a .6 ported box and ill be getting the dvc 4ohm and a 600 watt at 2ohm amp. I listen to mostly rock and country. I've looked at the spec on both subs and the sa-8 will take 200 more watts. But I was wandering if the e8 would be loud enough?? Since its a little cheaper the e8 is what im thinking but since Im only gonna have a 1 sub setup I want it to be right. I already have a rockfosgate p2d48 and its alright but I was going for quality with my little setup not volume. A little help please

I would like to say that Rusty from DC Audio is as good as gold, and hooked me up with 3 New Recones and alot of other goodies, and New Tensil Lead Cones! Thanks Again Rusty for all the support!

i need a 15" sub for around $200.00 or lower that can handle 500w @2ohm and likes ported box. its going in a older accord so room is not that big of a deal. im thinking pf a box around 3.4 - 4 cuft after displacement tuned to around 36hz or so. the sub needs to be new so start giveing me idea's on sub's. im trying to use something new that i never used before so i can hear a new sub.... jamie

They only good looking one i could find were the Focal 165A3. Are these any good? or can you suggest any thing else. I can get the focal for about $250 so nothing over $300 thanks

I've been doing a lot of reading and searching and I was hoping I could get some additional help. Is there a classification chart as to which SSA subs are deemed "sq" or "spl"? Is it simply the way that they are installed that makes them better geared towards one type of sound? Also, with the greater power handling subs is the "type of sound" the same or as power increases so does deepness, loudness, etc? For example: Dcon - low power sq sub Gcon - mix of sq/spl at medium power Icon - higher powered sq sub Xcon - ultimate high power sq sub Zcon - balls out, no frills spl sub I know my review and thoughts maybe a bit elementary but please feel free to chime in and corr…

I'm trying to learn more about setting up my mids/highs & I've been reading a lot of threads about "going active." I think I've got the gist of what it is and how to do it (kind of) but I'm trying to figure out what the benefit is. Is going active and using the HPF & LPF on the amp better than just using the passive x-over that comes with ur components? The only thing I can think of is maybe it's cheaper to buy a midrange and a set of tweets than buying a nice component set....Somebody wanna help me understand this a lil' better?

Hi, I have a 12" Alpine type s in a vented Bassworks box( pretty big ) driven by a Pioneer GM-7100M (RMS Power at 2 Ohms = 360 W x 1 RMS Power at 4 Ohms = 250 W x 1). head unit : pinoeer DEH-P7700MP I'm listening to Punk Rock, Death Metal, Metal, Hard-rock and a little bit of Dr. D.R.E amd Cypress Hill. I find my bass not tight enough and not fast enought to hadle my music preferences. Do you think that two 8" subwoofer in a sealed box will do the job? Should I use two SVC 4" sub to get the 360w at 2 ohms of my amp What brand and model of subs should I go for? Sry for my english

Hi from Bulgaria, everyone. At first I was going to buy one of the new Nightshades, but realized there will be some months till I get the money and I won't have any other sub to bang in my trunk. So I am looking for something cheap till I get the money for the NSv2. I am very tempted at the ongoing pre-order of Sundown Audio SA-8. I can get it here to BG for around the same price as Alpine Type-R for instance. My goal is a cheap sub that will bang loud and good for it's money. Sound Pressure ... around 35 Hz. What are your thoughts?

Impact Auto Styling is a good shop imo, I've never been there, but I know one of the guys and all the installs he does are SICK and all the brands they carry are damm good imo. stoked to see someone repping SI here locally

im getting one next week hopefully, and i have a box that was built for my 9512g... its 2^3ft @ 38hz with 35^2in of port....will it work well in that box and still retain decent sq?

First let me say that I absolutely hate having to ask a this vs that question. That being said I want to get the best setup for my preferences and have limited experience. I have had many different setups but only two serious setups. Both included identical parts (same car I blew one sub switched to another.) For electrical I had the big 3 done in 0 gauge, a normal battery in the engine bay with 4 red tops in the back, 5 single farad capacitors on a bus line, a Alphasonic 8 volt line driver, two Earthquake D3 amps, and a 240amp alt. It was in an old school 4 door buick century (yes the system was worth much more than the car lol!) At first I had a 15" Audiobahn Immortal Q…

I was going to shoot for Fi SSDs or BLs to go with my sundown 1200d v2 But I can grab brand new Rockford P3s 12" for $220 from my buddy who bought them and decided to go a different route I know most of you on here eat, sleep and breath car audio but over all what do you guys think of these subs honestly? Can they handle a sundown 1200d v2 without turning everything way down? By no means do I plan on cranking it way up, but I just dont want to blow these subs with that amp. So for the price what would you guys do?

I had a kid at school offer me $700 cash for my SA15s in the box. I payed 500 for the subs and box new so i'm almost positive i'm going to do it. Now, the question is do I buy the exact same subs and get a box built and take the $200 profit and get some components or something like that or do I slightly upgrade. If upgrade, what would be some good subs to look at. I'm running an saz2500 for my amp