Subwoofers / Speakers

I want to upgrade my front stage in my Durango. I was to fiberglass my doors to hold a woofer (maybe 7-8"), midbass (4-5"), and tweeter. Looking at the Goldwood brand? Any other suggestions? This will be an active setup with a seperate amp to power each different set of speakers (1 for woofers, 1 for midbass, 1 for tweeters)

Sup guys, i'm really interested in the mags, i know it's goin to cost me some money but def. well worth it, i'm thinking of putting up a wall in my car and go with either 3 12" mags or 4 12" mags, most likey each powered by a nine.1 or an RE 12.1, i was wondering how much space would be recommended for them i'm goin to say probably 2.0 cf per sub? and what would be a good tunning for it, probably around 32-35 hz? its either a wall or 2 12" in a crx style box with a orion 2500d.. suggestions are welcome. thanx

Hello everyone, I currently have a pair of Image Dynamics CTX65CS components in my front door speakers and Type S's in my rear doors that're being powered off of my alpine headunit. I will soon be ordering the 12" Dcon Single 4 ohm to place in the 2.0 cubic foot box I have that has a port tuned to 32hz. I thought I got a pretty good deal on it, and it looks sturdy enough to hold the DCON with it's double baffled front! The amp i'm using to power my front components and the subwoofer is the Cadence DCA 4100 which I also linked below. Correct me if i'm wrong, But I have to bridge two channels of this amplifier together if I want my subwoofer to be seeing roughly 250 RMS at…

I own a scion tc and specs are- fronts are 6.5" 2way components rears are 5.25" co-axials. Since i am adding 3Kw worth of bass, i need high powered speaker replacements. I'm not a total audiophile, I just like it loud and clear. Anyways, i have been looking at these - JBL C608Gti MK II Why? because they are the loudest 6.5" 2way i can find without retailing over $1,000. Now, here is the question - if i power these with about 200w per side, for me sitting up front, would i not hear the rear speakers higher frequency range giving them 100w per speaker? I'm wondering if i am just suppose to replace the rear speakers with just 5.25" woofers only, no co-axial.

Have 2 15s 2 12s and 2 10s?

I have two E12s being hooked up to a 800rms amp. I want to wire them to 2ohms but I don't know how, I need a diagram or something.

I got one coming and have a rf 300.1 im going to wire it parallel for a 2 ohm load, so I can have around 300 watts available, but the subs only rated at 175rms, the box is about 2.4 cubes tuned to 28. 20V AC should be about 200 watts, where should I set it at, not sure if RE subs are tough and can handle a little extra or what? Id be open to building a smaller box or similar sized tuned different if it will help in output. Im guessing tuned higher would be louder overall, but in winisd, the 1.5 @ 35Hz box they recommend doesnt look better than the box I built, at least not at anything under 45Hz, of course from there on up the scale it looks like the smaller box has the …

this is a quote from some guy talking shit on my box is it even true what he says i think it sounds good "Pre-fab means Prefabricated. It means that the box was Pre (already) Fabrication (made) before installation. Even tho you have the measurements for the inside of the trunk. Doesnt make the box ANY better. The box you have I GUARANTEE you sounds like crap, just because of the fact that there are not seperate chambers for the subs. This means that the back flow (the air you feel, when the subs hit. IF you have a vented box); The back flow from the subs facing the back of the trunk are reverberating the subs on top of the box. This means you have double re-verb, which s…

i have a jl audio 10" w1v2 and im trying to upgrade to 2 12"s any recomendations im looking to spend about 500 on the subs box and amp

Here's a couple pictures of the moving assembly of a Magnum 12 (the coin is a quarter - I put it there just for a reference).

Hello all, I installed my Pioneer MVH-X690BS head unit last night and it powers up fine, however my Image Dynamics CTX65CS in the front doors are not working. I checked the amps and they seem to be working properly. I have an appointment with a local audio shop tomorrow to help me with the big three install (I can't reach the alternator on my Xterra, what a pain in the ass) and I will ask them to trouble-shoot my components while I am at it. However, I have a feeling I may need to replace the components. I have a Sundown 100.2 amp that does 100x2 @ 4ohms and 200x2 @ 2ohms. I am interested in the RE XXX 6.5C as that is one of the few 2 ohms components I've f…

just wondering if I am running 75 watts to a set of components, can I run speaker wire from the amp to the factory wiring or do I need to run wire all the way to the comps, not sure on the exact gauge, but its just whatever honda runs to their speakers, probably 18 ga at best? what size speaker wire do I need to run to them if I run the full length? 14?

I built a sealed box for my car already but i need to build a ported box for comps. Ive got 2 15'' d2s with 1200 watts rms My cars resonant frequency is about 35 from what ive read. Should i tune it to 35? or to what the subs are reccommended to? or ive heard to tune about 10-12 hz above my cars resonant freq.?

I have a down fire for 2 12s, sealed box under the seat of my silverado. When I turn the volume up to 13 everything sounds fine when playing a song with big bass. But when I hit 14+ it almost sounds like its bottoming out. But heres the thing, when I put my hand over the bump on the top of the box and press down, that farting, blurping, vibrating (whatever you want to call it) sound goes away. Its only happening on one side Is my box coming undone? Or is it probably my sub? If it could be a box issue, what can I do and how do I find out where the issue is?

So right now I have a Cadence ZRS-8 (site says 1500 rms @ 1 ohm, but really puts out around 18-1900 rms @ 1 ohm), and a RD Alpha V2. I want to upgrade so I can get more output, I was thinking either going a single 15" or two 12", it can't be anything that will only fit in a SUV because this will be going into a trunk of a '98 Honda Accord Coupe, my budget is $500 (i would prefer used so I can buy the sub(s) cheaper). I was thinking about a 15" Xcon, 15" BTL, two 12" Icons, or two 12" BL, I am also open to other suggestions.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=264-838 They also come in a 6x9 version. I'm thinkin 2 or 4 in a ported box. Tuned low... might do it for home setup, or see if I could have a smaller box designed for my buddys jeep and use those, so he could put his back seat in and drag around his friends.

where can I purchase this and how much will it be shipped to 91803. Im interested in purchasing 2 if its not ok to put out prices please pm me. Thanks

Hey guys, I currently have 2 Image Dynamic ID12's in a 4 cube ported box being pushed by an AQ1200D (870rms x 1 @ 2ohms) and my box is tuned to 30Hz. I want to "upgrade" and have something that's louder, still fairly accurate, can hit the higher bass notes (current box is severely lacking in that area, but hits the lows nicely) while still being able to bang the lows too, and has a smaller footprint. My car is a 04 Monte Carlo and currently the subs/port are rear firing, no speakers in my rear deck to allow more bass into the cabin. I'm open to all suggestions as for layout and what subs to use to accomplish my goals. My budget for sub(s) is $400 maximum! My only requirem…

I keep reading topics where people say hdc's really perform after u put a 2200 on it. I got two md2ds and was going to put one on each sub. 1500 a piece. But if they won't perform until 2200 should I still consider these? If not what's a better choice? DC lvl 4xl? Xcon?

I would like to build a pair of homr bookshelf speakers using the Hybrid Clarus 6/5 set , But i cant find the dimensions of the drivers anywhere . For instance how much cubic ft is required for the woofers ... etc .. Do you think it would be a good idea ? plz help

I'm working on trading for a soundstream xxx 15. It still has the tarantula on the dust cap, so I'm assuming it hasn't been reconed. Were there any different versions? Are they all made by TC. Anything I need to look at besides measuring the coils, checking the color of the coil, and checking for any mechanical noise?

I have a 2004 tacoma ext cab with a single ssa dcon 12 svc 4 0hm and a Boston acoustics gt-2125 bridged to give the dcon 400w rms at 4ohms. I have a sealed box with 1.25 cuft of airspace it's a prefab ground shaker here I can use, it's new and came as a gift, my question is how would it sound sealed with 400w rms in a sealed enclosure?? All this stuff is new, and I just don't have 200 for a custom tune box right now and I really want to have something in my truck would it be good to use this sealed box or get a tuned and ported box.

I have a 1997 tahoe and i'm looking to set my system up by summer. my question is should i do 2 audioque sdc 2.5 15's or 1 fi q 18'' sub? and amp choices will either be a audioque 1200d or a sundown 1200d. i mostly listen to hip hop if this helps and want mostly lows with some flex over ""SQL"".

hi im looking into getting fi subs but i dont know which one can anybody help... i am going to get 2 12s of which ever one i decide on getting im going ported @ 32hz... this system is going into a honda civic trunk.... but the subs i was looking at was the FI Q series and the FI SSD series but i dont know which to choose i am going to get the BP power to which ever one but the thng is i want 2 subs that wil hit hard and that have good sound quality so i guesss im just looking for ""SQL""..... can anybody help me on some good componets aswell im going to buy a a Hifonics mono 2000 watt amp... so i can give 1000w to each sub thanks

built new box today..waiting for it to dry now.total volume is 3.4 cubes gross.port is 2.25x14x27long so net volume for sub is 2.85 plus the port which is .5 cubes.hows that sound on paper?and whats it tuned to?around 30 i think.