Subwoofers / Speakers

So i bought pioneer ts d1720c and the tweeters are pretty harsh. I have them mounted buy my side mirrors. They aren't directed right at me but they are pretty close to me. I have them wired at -3db on the crossover as well and running off of my head unit at the moment. They also get pretty distorted in my opinion if i turn my stereo up at 27/35 (35 is the loudest it gets) Should i try different mounting spots? I have also read some bad things about these tweeters but i understand its all about the install and tuning.

I am currently running 2 (400rms each) Sundown E-12s each in a 1.2 cubic foot ported box at 36hz. Powered by a Hifonics 1700.1 I recently found out that I could put a box in my back seat that will hold 2 15s. (R/T 300 series) thats 3.2 cubic feet per sub tuned at 32hz. Yes I understand 3.2 is just under the gross volume and does not account for the port. I also know it isn't the best box in the world but I can't afford much more right now and it is better than what I have. I have a convertible so I lose a lot of sound but I wanted to upgrade from the 12s to really just have more cone area and maybe a sub that will handle more power than the E series from sundown. I hav…

Good evening, my underseat truck setup finally kicked the bucket so I'm going to finally upgrade like I've been wanting to, doing a budget friendly soundqubed setup to match what I have now, (SQ amps and highs and mids) I drive a 2002 F150 supercrew (4 door, 5.5 foot bed) too and powering low end stage off an SQ 2200d. My questions are: 1. Is a regualr ported blowthrough possible with 4 15's ? All I see are 4th or 6th orders around (trust me I have searched a lot) My goals are to be loud, low and clean. I modeled different enclosures with WinISD and I get the best response with a ported box versus a 4th order (probably because of the stupid high QTS). 2. Is a clamshell a…

Hello, I need some advice on subs before I buy. Thanks in advance. I'm wanting to go with Fi subs, and thinking either 4 15's or 2 18's. dimensions of the area available without removing panels: 30Dx20Hx45W(approx). Here's what i'm working with: 2x Soundstream DTR1.3400D RMS Power Rating:1 ohm: 2200 watts x 1 chan.0.5 ohm: 3400 watts x 1 chan.thats each.

I will soon be running Two SA-12s on a saz 1500d and i want to get new speakers. The ones i have in my car now are terrible, 1 is blown and the others are on the way out as well. They are 6 1/2 all around and im looking for opinions on reasonably good speakers i could pick up at best buy or something of that nature. I have seen some speakers that go for $200+ a pair and have heard of others that are half that that and do just as much.

alright guys I have a dumb question. So I already have aftermarket speakers running off of an amp and my tweeters running off of the head unit. Just bought new mids all the way around...got the prv 6.5 4ohms and those ill just put right in after I get the old mids out. My question is about the tweeters. I also bought a rts-1 audiophile silk dome tweeter kit and need to know what to do. I'm going to take my old infinity tweeters out but don't know if I can use the existing wire going to my old tweeters. Please help!!

Ok so i have recently traded and got a DC XL-18 M1, im not familiar with subs(never ran a DC). Im trying to come with with a good enclosure and will be using aeroports. (<- Saves me some hatch space for stuff) I did see that the DC site says 5.5 cf net for the 18's, but im not sure how to determine how much port i would need for it. My goal is for Daily with good SPL. Really i want it be loud lol. I tune at 40hz because it gives me MY perfect medium of daily and SPL(Thats just me) for the occasional comp. The formats are burps and the other is Music average for 2 different orgs. So i was thinking about going 5.5cf net with maybe a single 8" aero, but again im not…

I have a soundqubed hdc3 18 and I cannot find the serial number on it. I have looked all over the sub and also tried to search online for where it is, Does anybody know where it is located?

Ok guys my big build (to me) is finally in the works. I have begun ordering and need some advice on my front stage. My car is a 2004 Scion xB. Not a lot of room in the doors as they sit, but I'm prepared to modify the panels to get the sound I want. As of now I'm running a Pioneer DEH-X8600BH head unit (which may change to a double DIN before it's over) so I'm not looking to run active. I just want to get a front stage that actually has some bass to it. Right now without the subs running it sounds like total crap as there's no bass whatsoever to these Polk DB6.5s. I would like to be able to have a setup that would sound great with no sub playing. The front stage as of now…

Hello guys, I am still waiting for my amp kit and my dash kit for the head unit. But I'm thinking about my future install. I' will run a Pioneer x5600bt and 2 IA amps : a 3.4 on my focal KP 165 and a 20.1 on my 15" zcon sub. I'd like to try an active setup this time. Do you think it is worth trying with my current mids and tweeters ? I know I would need a processor to do so. As I don't want to break the bank, I'll look into the mini dsp you all talk about. My installer will build solid baffles for the speakers, and the tweeters will sit next to the mids. There is no stock place for the tweeters. I am planning to buy some products from sounddeadenershowdown.com later…

Hi you guys I don't no if this is in the right section or not. But I have a deliman right now and I keep picking my brain over and keep changing my mind. Ive never built a system from the ground up but now I'm getting real into the bass addiction. Currently have 2 12" cvr and kicker 750 amp. I want more!. I have a 02 trailblazer and I'm starting from the ground up. I just bought and installed an pioneer avh-x4600bt(love it). I got 1/0 gauge and did big 3. Part of my plans for my system is to do all 1/0 runs, get h/o, xs power 3400 up front, 1 or 2 xs3100 in back(depending on what power I'm running). Now thus is where my dilemma comes into play I don't no what subwoofers t…

I have the silvermodel t2 and it is worn out I have had it for 7 years and would love to get it re-coned. is there someone that could help me out or refer someone. thanks for the help guys

Im running a Sound Stream Rubicon 1600d amp and I very recently (7hrs ago) ordered a single 15" Icon to run in a ported midgate Avalanche enclosure that I will soon be having built. Im second guessing myself because I now feel like the single Icon wont provide enough SPL. Im thinking about canceling for 2 Gcon 12s. Ive never personally heard either sub besides from watching youtube vid and forum customer reviews. I'm a 60/40 sq/spl but from time to time I like get my breath taken away. Im not sure what 15 icons hit on meters or double gcon setups but if it means anything the loudest set up I've ever owned hit 140.6 with 2 Pioneer Premier SPL 12s on a Directed 1100d in a p…

Ok so im working on my box and i have the option to do 2 8's or 1-12" aero port for my box. Im not sure which will be the better way to go and i know they equal roughlly the same thing. This is what im looking at. -2 Soundqubed SDC2.5 15s -Enclosure will be 8 cubes(4 cubes per sub) @ 40hz either way -Power for now 1600 rms(will soon be about 3k before rise and voltage drop aiming at 1k per sub) Ports: 2 8" Aeros - 100.48 sq inches / 8 cubes = 12.56 sq inches port per cube 1 12" Aero - 113.04 sq inches / 8 cubes = 14.13 sq inches port per cube The 1 12" will give me alittle more port per cube then the 2 8"s, also ive always seen and been told that less ports are more e…

Just curious if anyone here has any experience with these speakers. Everything I've found on google is in German for the most part. The set I was looking at was the SLX 265.20 X-Plain component speakers. From what I've gathered, these are the entry level speakers from Rainbow. Just wondering how these performed compared to other component sets in this price range. I can get the component set for $175.00 shipped.

It's a whole lot worse with 3 subs hooked up. Measuring at the amps, I can get a 6ohm or more even fluctuation.

a friend has a blown 12.5 LF boston acoustics sub that had its coil unwind on him. its a single 2ohm coil - does anyone know where i can find a recone kit for this sub? thanks.

Will this be possible 130 db on slash 1000

Ive been looking to upgrade my system for a while to something louder and cleaner and have been looking mainly at JLs. I recently found W6W12s on sale on sonicelectronix for around $400. From what I read these are the subs I'm looking for but I still have a few questions. Right now I'm running a 15" Eclipse titanium in a ported box on a Hifonics Zeus 1200 watt amplifier in a 2001 Expedition. Would 2 W6s be louder than this? I'm looking for something that will really hit hard, like a lot harder than the eclipse. Will the amp I have work for two of these subs? Also would I be better off going for 1 W7? Lastly, would it be necessary to make improvements to the wiring setup I…

Just finishing my first recone, changed my 12" icon to an 18. Everything is done except soldering the leads... They're not sandwiched leads; but the loose leads with the pad on the cone to prevent tinsel slap. The tinsel leads seem really long. How much slack should I leave?

Ok guys,first of all hello to everyone,im new here and sorry in advance for my english since it is not my main language,and for my ignorance about Sub's,Boxes ,and similar I am getting myself a 15" MB Quart Reference series RWE 352 subwoofer : (Source:Google ) It's 700w rms,1400 max,15",and im getting it very cheap from a friend,its almost brand new ^^ Problem is,i asked couple of guys,and saw on net that its recomended for this Sub to go in Sealed box 50 liters~....I already have a 300w RMS 10" Radical Audio subwoofer in a 26l sealed box,and ...weeell im not satisfied,i mean,its clean,fast precise bass,but just aint louuuuuud :/ So im kinda concerned how will it b…

Ive read quite a few different posts on the net and there seems to be an argument with what the correct port area for one of these subs is. Im trying to come up with a new box and im unsure on what kind of port area i need. Ive seen on the smd forums someone said the minimum should be 52 sqin of port, then ive seen the number 38 sqin on other, and also had someone say they contacted sundown and it should be 20 sqin?? This is the only thing keeping me from starting on a new box. Can someone please help me out with this? If it helps, box will be around 2cubes at 30hz ran with a hifonics brz2100. I know its not the best of amps but it is what im stuck with for now. Also thi…

Right now my box is set up with sub and port firing to the rear. I am considering cutting a hole in the top for the sub and plugging the rear hole to see what it does to the sound while keeping same box size and tuning. Due to box dimensions, the only way to do it would put the sub right at the port opening in the box. It's a typical slot port so it won't be blocking the port. I remember reading somewhere that it's not ideal to have the sub close to the port if you can help it. How big of a deal is it and how much would it affect what I am trying to do? Depending on what the sound difference is will be deciding on how I build my next box.

I've had a 15 inch ICON in my old explorer for the past two years and loved every second of it. But that car is now gone. I'm planning on getting a GCON that will go in a mustang. Obviously the trunk isn't nearly as big in a mustang, so I'm debating between a 10 inch or a 12 inch. The specs say a 12" optimal ported box is 3 cubic feet, and 2.5 cubic feet for the 10". These are bigger recommended box sizes than the icons of the same size...so why do the GCONs need such a big box? Just wondering cause I'm playing with limited room!

Hey I'm just sitting looking at emails and there was message from this websitehttp://www.decware.com/newsite/DBK10II.html I'm wondering if anyone here has heard, built or seen any of these sub boxes before and what did you think of them.