Subwoofers / Speakers
Discuss Subwoofers And All Aspects Of Speakers here.
6,865 topics in this forum
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I own a jbl bpx500.1 monoblock 1/2 channel amp. the amp can run bridged x1 780w at 4ohm, parallel x1 760w at 1 ohm, and 237w x2 at 4ohm. I have a dual 4ohm voice coil speaker that can provide 2 or 8ohm loads. can my amp support 2ohm x one channel?!?!?!?!?!? i cannot figure it out!
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I've been researching and learning about bandpass design for the past few months and have gotten to where I feel pretty confident in my designs. I have access to many speakers and a lot of wood for testing but would like to get more designs in the streets to get feedback on. If any of you have been thinking about trying out a new box for your vehicle and would like to give bandpass a try please let me know what woofers, how much power (amp model specifically), and your desired goal. Also measurements for your cargo area with details such as does the depth given allow for a rear firing port etc. Hope to get a few of you to bite, I don't think I'll let you down .
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What is a better SQ (In your opinion) sub, Fi audio Q12, or TC-9, Tc-2000, All using memphis 16-PRD 1000.1, in a 2.25 cft ported box tuned to 32 Hz, all using the same every thing. Ok and my second question is which one will get the loudest while still maintain great Sq. Thanks because i really dont know any thing about TC
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I have a set of Bravox Audio CS60K components and i was wondering if anyone could recommend crossover points? Ive read that the supplied passives low-pass the mid 1000hz@6db and high-pass the tweet at 4200hz@19db. I'm using a 3sixty.2 and the slopes i have are 12 and 24db and powering the components with a T400-4, any recommendations are appreciated.
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I am about to recone my SSD 12". I get the basic idea of how to recone, but not sure how to center the coil and dustcap. Any ideas/tips/advice? I'm kinda nervous about doing it myself because this will be a first time for me. Any help is needed.
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So i was thinking, man do i really need the ProL1s? i need to replace my current L1 tweets (calling you about that tomo Scott) and i was looking online and saw a L1v2? Wow am I excited have to pick some up. They look absolutely litterly jaw-dropping jump out of my seat tell everyone i know look i what i'm getting! TWEETS! LOL. and looks like the rest of the legatia pro lineup is on its way?? wow you been hard at work Mr. Buwalda. just had to say thanks for all the excitement and i can't wait to get back in the garage and get this build finished for SBN 09'!!! nice work!! oh yeh, anyone have the opportunity to install these buggers and compare them to the old L1? sorry…
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OK, well wondering what your opinion is on dedicated midbass drivers like the JL 6W0, TB 6.5, EU-700 and things of that sort? If one say had a higher frequency range say 10hz-4khz, would you use it? in a 2way or 3way setup? vented or sealed or in door. What price would you go for?
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I would like to be pointed into the right direction for an accurate hitting sub. I want something around 300 dollars. And do you think the subs should stay around 500 rms so its not just some head beater bass. I am thinking about a 4th order ported box. I have a Boston Acoustic 10" in a .7 cubic ft sealed box. I am pushing 300 rms with an Alpine M500. Do you think I should just make a new box for better sound or just replace everything?
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Hey Guys, I was wondering if anyone would know from experience why the HC's aren't put in sealed boxes that often. I seen on some forums people who want to put the HC's in a sealed enclosure, but then other people are like "no don't do that" but they don't give a reason at all. I searched and searched but haven't been about to get a real solid answer. I ask RE and they said that they don't sound bad but they don't get as boomy. However isn't this true with most sealed vs. ported applications. So know I am even more confused about the situation. I have 2 of the 15HC I bought from the sale if you guys are wondering. Spring break is coming in a couple of weeks so I plan …
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Im waiting on that 20" you proposed a while back...any updates?
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I don't want to upgrade my amp at the moment so I have to use my Skar rp1500.1, its just north of 1400 watts RMS at 1 ohm. I want to get the most bass I can but I can't decide which sub to go with? I'm leaning toward a single VXF-15 but I was hoping to hear some other ideas. I currently have 2 JL Audio Kappa 120.9s in a sealed box and I want to replace them to get some actual bass. These sound nice but I want something that can actually handle the power I have to offer. These are a wimpy 350 watts each . Regarding enclosure size, like most people I want to keep some trunk space, 4 cubes is max. So what would you do?
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i am going to fiberglass my entire trunk to fit 2 12" Magnums, what are common molding materials used for fiberglassing, i was trying cardboard but i figured out thats not going to work very well...... help
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Not sure if this belongs somewhere else. . Okay, because i have a hugeee box for my sub that barely fits in my trunk of my crown vic. ya lol The sub faces upward toward the trunk. Whenever i turn up the volume my trunk piece flexes and moves like crazy. Although it doesn't sound as bad as those 200 watt shitty bass system that is just rattle. The previous owner of my car put some type of insulator in all of the cracks that would normally rattle in my car, not sure what he used. But the only thing that moves like crazy is the dam trunk hood thing itself. If i face the sub toward the license plate there would be about a minimum of 10" inches possibly more , between…
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is there a bid difference. how do the compare in quality and loudness. which one would be better. the audioque are 139 and the ssd 179. any other subs within that price range that are loud?
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I have one 12" fi ssd in a 2.5 ft^3 box, tuned ~32 hz. Im planning on getting the sundown 1200d v.2 with another 12" ssd. I'm thinking about attaching the new sub to the front of the current one, (so the cones are facing eachother), granted they'd be out of phase and far enough apart so the surrounds dont make contact. Im wondering if this will produce the same or worse sound quality than I'd get with a regular 5.0 ft^3 box for the 2 subs. This way, I could save what little trunk space I have left without having to make a whole new box. Should look something like this:
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Well the little brown truck came swinging by the past couple days and decided he would do me a favor and drop off some packages for me. I would just like to say thank you Rusty. You are a great person and friend. I also can't forget Maxxsonics, great product and superb support. Im not much for suspense so here we go
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We're fast approching December when I can "officially" modify my Rav4 that I share with my girlfriend. The big thing is that everything must fit in a storage well under the floor in the cargo area. Yeah, I've shown this before: And heres a side view of my box: http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/474/572/179813.jpg Basically the sub will fire upwards. And in order for the Mag to fit in there, there is only going to be 1 1/2" from the top of the box to the underside of the floor when I close it up. I measured from the bottom of the gasket to the top of the surround, and it's a little less then 1". I also tried measuring how far the surround shoots out when it's moving. …
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what do you say to this: Sealed boxes:"Sealed Enclosures are designed for sound quality and offer very low tuning frequencies. If you are building a system where the goal is to listen to music, these are the enclosures to build. They offer the best low frequency performance of all the designs." Ported boxes:"These enclosures will deliver higher sound pressure levels than sealed enclosures.The perceived loudness will be lower than a sealed enclosure, although the metered number will be higher." [ORION AUDIO] i always thought ported box were louder in all aspects. now orion says sealed is louder to ear than ported. how come?? and i simply dont understand the physic behind…
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whats everyones opinion of the WMD 15? im looking to uy a new sub when i get taxes back and this sub looks nice. http://www.pierceaudioproducts.com/WMD.html
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I'm going to make a enclosure that will use almost all of my trunk space, so I'm going to make the bottom out of fiberglass so that I can use the space from the spare wheel well. The port have to be so long that it will close off 1/3 of the opening of the spare wheel well. Few pictures to illustrate the problem: from the side From above: Will this be a problem? And how will this affect the subwoofers?
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I recently got 2 sundown audio sa-15, i put them in a 7cuft box tuned to 35 hz. I have the big 3 down and a yellow top optima under the hood. I plan on having the amp professionally tuned to their won't be any clipping. So here's my question.... If i buy a hifonics brutus 2400.1 can the subs handle it? i've heard people can put more on them so anybody that has these want to give me some input?? thanks!
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I currently have a 5" focal mid range in the front doors, two soundstream tws.4 on the front dash. in the rear is a rockford fosgate prime component set with the woofers on the rear deck and tweeters on the top of the rear window. I'm not pleased with how the front sounds so I need something better up there. I have a four channel amp that does about 75 each channel and a two channel that does 125 each channel. I was thinking something along the lines of a midbass and new tweeter in the front, then possible using the focal mids and tws.4 tweeters for the rear. My doors have no bass at all and overall it is not loud enough. I'm on a budget so used and low price is what …
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