Subwoofers / Speakers

Searching through my local craigslist and stumbled upon a TW5 13.5 for $75. It however has a large crack in what I believe to be the dust cap? I've just never seen a dust cap made out of a material like the one I'm looking at which arises my suspicion as to whether or not it is actually a dust cap. Through my googling, I read that re-coning JL audio woofers is strictly done by JL audio. If this is just a dust cap issue, I can fix this myself correct? I've heard of people using epoxy/silicone for this process. Obviously I would like to fix the crack in the woofer and use it. Is this as easily fixable as I suspect? Thanks for your time! Here's a photo to explain more in de…

I have a 12 spoke SI D2 and right now it is running in a sealed enclosure and it is not suiting my needs. I was told if I ported it, it would be a whole other sub. Supposedly sound incredible. Just wondering if anyone could help me out with some box dimensions for a ported enclosure. THe best way to get ahold of me would be to email me at [email protected] Thanks Adam

I have a box desighned for two 12 dcons could two12 skars work in same box? dcons not decons

Heh.. Here is what my mom was running before: Here is her new setup with the MAW-12's: I have them running on my 100.2 in my truck right now till all my parts are here for my setup... The SQ is better compared to the sealed punch s1 and gets nice and low.. Not too bad for less then 400wRMS between them as I haven't set the gain yet. Definetly a great buy for the money.

Fi BTL 15 inches VS RE XXX 15 inches Here is a simulation in winisd...Which clear shows XXX will be louder... Box specs...5 Cu.ft with a port of 48 sq in and 20 inch length.

Listening Equipment list - Sony XA-1 ES CD player, Outlaw 1050 receiver, Crown K2 amplifier, Monster Cable Interlink 250 interconnects, Monster Cable 12 awg speaker wire, and Stereo Integrity Esprit line arrays. The Magnum 15" is in a 3.6 cubic foot sealed sonotube enclosure being driven by the incredibly relentless Crown K2 that is capable of 2,500 watts RMS. "Spies" 1988 Telarc CD is a must-have for any audio enthusiast who enjoys deep, powerful bass lines. Coupled with the CD's great recording quality, the Spies CD was the first to find its way into the CD player. Track number one opens up with its solid up-beat bass line that will quickly show any subwoofer faults…

Does anybody know if the generic grills they sell at Parts Express will work for the 302's? If not, do you have any suggestions on grills for these?

I have built a boxthats tuned to 32 hz,after port and spkr displacement i have 1.0 cu.ft of space left, my question is will this work or will i need to build a different box this is a dual ported box and it is for 2 12 mags new version....also if this will not work how about a sealed dual chambered box with each chamber @2.2 cu.ft.,will this be to big sealed? btw the amp is a DEI2400D(1400watts @ 4ohms, 2400watts@ 2 ohms)

So yeah, even with better amp grounding causing less voltage drop on my voltmeter, and enabling my other 1/0g power line, I was no better then before. No matter if I was revving the crap out of the engine, or if the battery charger was connected. Simply, the subs don't get any louder past a certain wattage, which I'm guesstimating to be in the 600 watt range, while my amp can put out about 1000 watts per sub. And just for jokes, I played some music with the drivers side windows down, loudest was AM Kidd's - Bay Wid it, pushing 146.1db. It sounds LOUD as heck inside the car, and now it's confirmed that it's loud outside the car too Interesting, I only got 142.5db with the…

Hey guys, I'm looking for a good 4 channel to finish out my setup. I have 4 sundown 6.5 coaxials, says 80 rms per speaker. Running the Sundown 2.75 full ranges in the dash, 35 rms. I got a little Infinity 2 channel (primus 6002) to run the dash speakers alone. Going to Y off the front rcas coming from my Kenwood DNX997XR for those. Looking for a good high quality SQish 4 channel for the sundowns. Pulled the trigger on a Kenwood XR401-4 but something inside is telling me not to go with big box brands. Something inside means people at my work. That XR401-4 is pending return now and I'm looking at getting a DC Audio 90.4. Just curious if somebody can explain the differences …

This box is very well built if I do say so myself. I do good work I am just slow to start anything. If I ever make a cut I get down to bizzzness but if I don't I just sit around and don't do crap. I have to find the pics I took of my Orion 2500 and the install I did for a friend with a CMPx2 15 and a Crossfire 1000d. http://www.sounddomain.com/memberpage/463709

nick whats the Xmax of the Mags?

Ok so a long time ago I had the maw-15's, two of them, anyway they were amazing. but due to economic circumstances I had to regretfully sell them to make ends meet. Also along with my tiny but very stout amp. So here is the new deal going on... I have a better job now. new car. and a new budget. I drive a 2006 Pontiac g6 sedan.... I am looking into two subs for the car. i was wanting 10's because before i sold my maw's i tried to get them in the trunk of the g6 and it didnt work well. so Anyway 2 10's is what im looking at, or maybe 2 12's. budget is $500-$600 for both subs together. thanks in advance ~MadroX *Edit: Spelling Error

Well, it was so nice out today, I decided I'd rip all my carpet out and get it ready for when my eDead arrives. Also did some work on the baffle. Here's some pics so you guys can get an idea. Here's 2 shots of the 15 mounted and hanging from the baffle. And here's one peering down through the 6x9 hole. Still waiting for it to get a little warmer so I can glass the baffle and finish it up. I'm also thinking about painting the top plate of the MAG a translucent green? What ya think?

Well, i have a sub in my room that gets listened too occasionally... Im not looking for anything with incredible output (only have a 100watt amp) and it doesn't have to sound the greatest either... The only time i listen to it is in the morning getting ready and its not at really high volumes cause there are other people in the house but sometimes when no one is here i turn it up pretty loud... The box it is going in is somewhere between 2.3-2.5 cf cause im not sure if the whole thing is made of 3/4" material or just the front part with the sub... It is going to be ported as well... Right now the dumb manufacturers made the port 4" across and only 5" long... Not sure what…

I was looking for some 15's. Looks like some Kicker CVX on ebay are about the best price. Anyone know of anything else?

I have made up my mind that i want to run 2000wrms, but I can't decide is whether on 2 15's or just one 18. I feel the two 15's will just be too much and the one 18 will do what I want it to. I want it to be at least semi-musical, but kill the lows. Nothing too loud, just something louder than my two type r 12's that we shoved in my friend's camaro (build log coming) This is a daily driver setup. Nothing extreme, just an enthusiast.

I'm looking for a 12'' subwoofer to work well in a .7 to 1 cuft enclosure before speaker displacements. Getting about 1000RMS. I listen to a lot of 80% rap and 20% rock and possibly some techno here and there. I was aiming for a Fi Q 12 but i was told that there are subs around that work really well in small sealed enclosures. I want it to be as loud as possible. I also have had a RE SX 12 in a .6 sealed box after displacements. It did really well and sounded clean but it got pretty warm. I'm just exploring my options. Any feedback on woofers is greatly appreciated! Thanks

Ok guys here's my situation I'm debatign between 2 12's or 2 15's D2's I have plenty of space and power and this is going in my 05 ext cab silverado which would you pick ? 2 12's or 2 15's My power on tap is a orion 2500D and i have about 10 cubes to toy with.

Currently I have cheap crappy Duals from best buy and am looking to upgrade. I am looking for SPL, but SQ is very important as well since it's a daily driver. THey have to be able to take a beating and handle extreme weather as well (both cold and hot). In my search I've found a lot and would like some opinions. I've been looking at stuff like the FI BL, RE MX, and Audioque HDC3. Other people have recommended DC audio as well as T3. Basically I'm looking for a quality sub that's not too expensive, that gets VERY loud while still retaining good SQ. It seems like there is a lot of good subs out there. I admit I don't know much about the stuff either, making it more difficul…

I got this off of caraudio.com and I couldn't find anything close to all this news on the "official" SI site. I understand this may not even be the chosen driver, but this IS the driver I want, specifically the Shollower mounting depth (by a full inch!) and secondly but not as important - smaller, more specific enclosure requirements. If this ends up being the new Mag, it means I'll be getting this to stick in my Rav4, which my current Mag was supposed to go into be can't because of mounting depth issues. This also means I gotta say sorry to Fi and Soundsplinter because I think I'll stick with the Mag. Saying that though, This needs to be quoted: BTW, here's the car…

Well...Yesterday I decided to stop being lazy and shove it all in the car...Everything is wired up and playing except the 8's in the doors.... After 3 hours of listening...here are my thoughts on some things.... Max Fidelity Tweets If anyone is looking to do a DIY setup, I'd STRONGLY recommend these. They are a small format (4 OHM!) neo tweet that is swivel mounted for adjust staging/aiming. I've had to tweak the driver side just a tad to bring the stage up, but that is because the driver's legs/steering wheel prohibit this. These things are are smack dab in the middle between a "laid back" silk tweet and a cut your ears off "bright" tweet. Excellent detail from …

I hooked up a meter to the coils of this sub and it reads 1.9 on both sides.. On the meter there is an Ohm section and its set at 200.. The picture is kinda blurry but you can get a good view on where its set at.. Can someone help me out on what coil configuration this sub is.. Its dual 2 ohm right? Heres the pics..

Ok so I checked my ohm load to see if it was really at 1 ohm. My DMM reads 3.1-3 ohms, so I pulled the subs out and tried from the connection. I got 1.5 on one side and 1.5 on the other, with out the jumper. They are 2ohm dvc. So why am I not getting them wired down to 1ohm when I put the jumper on from - to + as it should be? Some one plaese explain this to me. I mean I get that 1.5+1.5 = 3 but shouldn't I get .5+.5=1ohm? Then if it run it like if it was at a half ohm. It reads .8-1.0 ohms thats - jmped to - and + jumped to + Are the dual 4ohm subs? Even though the guy that sold them to me said dual 2? Oh and they BOTH do the same thing

Hello guys I have: VW Golf 4 hatchback car 2 x AA Mayhem 15' D1 Skar Audio sk 4500.1d 2 x Crescendo F31-Hp Stock alternator 120A I need advice: Daily box Wired to 0.7 Tuning 32hz What surface area of port ? What internal volume ? Spl box: Wired to 0.25 Car peak around 50Hz tuning box 47 Hz what internal volume ? what surface area ? I need this volumes and surface area from users who play with mayhems or similar subs like n2, n3, zcons etc. Thank You Michael