Subwoofers / Speakers

with 4 18''s and 30kw i needed to put some highs en mids. i gonna run. 8 sets ( coax 5inch) total 16 speakers 2 sets ( mids 6 inch ) total 4 speakers 2 sets ( extra tweeters ) total 4 tweets. wat will be the best way to run them, than i mean with the amps. i have already 1 4channel amp (rf t8004) what kind of total setup will be the best to run the front part? thnx

Im looking for a sub to replace a 10" IDQV2. I will be running it off a JL 500/1. I like the specs on the Fi SSD and the SSA Icon but dont really see a huge diff between the 2, other than getting the copper coil and BP Power (whatever that is..) on the SSD. Can someone please tell me what BP Power is. I searched but didnt find a clear answer.

Ok so i recently purchased a box caprice station wagon and I want to put a lot of subs in the back a demolish my opponents! So what do yall think I should put together? Budget is $2,000 for subs and $3000 for amp(s). I listen to alot of chopped and screwed rap music and like to crank it to the max and really slam, sq is really not an issue i just want it to sound sort of clean when im not killing my opponents and just straight cruisin.

hey everybody I came across a great deal on 2 Cerwin Vega Stroker Pros 15s and was wondering if they're any good? I was looking at the specs for a box and seems to be significantly smaller than the size of the BTL...anybody have any input?? thanks, Andrew

So I'm looking for sub. Nothing huge, a 10" would most likely be best. I would prefer a small footprint, so I was looking at some of the slimmers subs out there. Kickers, JL, etc. What is the deal with slim subs? Do they perform as well as their deeper counterparts? Any benefits to them other than the small boxes needed? ANd on the topic of boxes, I read how you needed a proper box to make the sub sing, but I am curious. 1) how do you determine port length? 2) pro/con of doing a bended port? 3) the box can easily be too small, but can a box be too big? Just some questions while I am learning everything.

I noticed Mach 5 Audio is now offering a MJ18-PR. Are there more sizes to come? I dig the box Mark made with a IXL 15 and the MJ18-PR. Dreaming out loud. I'd like to build a box with 3 IXL 10's firing up and 3 rear firing 10" PR's for my stang. Hint, hint, make a 10" PR. Keep the excellent products coming.

I'm still looking and agonizing over sub decisions. So many things out there.. I was thinking Fi SSD's, but I want other options as well. Here's what I want: Three 12", 4ohm DVC Good mix of SQ and SPL, with a bit more SPL $250 or less (preferably in the $200 range) Sealed box @ about 1.25cu ft per sub (net displacement) Someone suggested to me the new Hertz HX300's. Has anyone heard these? How do they sound, and how loud can they get?

so im thinkin about getting a single btl 18 or bl or even a q. i heard of people having to run seperate batteries and new alternators and running more wires. will this really be neccasary? my truck is just wired for a amp and all that right now

Yeahh to me I got my MJ18ms installed in my wagon but I used to big of a drill bit to pre drill and now some of my screws backed out, and Now I have to Brace the Front part again but OMG Rashad was right they are some bad ARS subs I cant belive it only off 900Rms or so After I fix the flex ill be set

I am looking at getting a new 12" or 15" sub for my 2001 Jetta. I am looking between the IA Death Row and the FI BL. I listen to mostly rap and I would be building my own box to spec. I only have enough room for one 12" or 15" so about 3.5 cu. ft. Currently I have a Hifonics BXI1206D so 1200 w rms @ 1 ohm. Any other suggestions would be apprecitated, looking for something loud that sounds good.

Ok so I checked my ohm load to see if it was really at 1 ohm. My DMM reads 3.1-3 ohms, so I pulled the subs out and tried from the connection. I got 1.5 on one side and 1.5 on the other, with out the jumper. They are 2ohm dvc. So why am I not getting them wired down to 1ohm when I put the jumper on from - to + as it should be? Some one plaese explain this to me. I mean I get that 1.5+1.5 = 3 but shouldn't I get .5+.5=1ohm? Then if it run it like if it was at a half ohm. It reads .8-1.0 ohms thats - jmped to - and + jumped to + Are the dual 4ohm subs? Even though the guy that sold them to me said dual 2? Oh and they BOTH do the same thing

For a fixed budget, aught I go 2- or 3-way? I was thinking that by going 3-way rather than 2-way you might be able to get a better overall balance between the differnt areas of the bandwith? Or would I be better off, just going with as good a 2-way system that I can for the same money? And for this front system (6,5" mid-basses), someone said that a 15" sub would be too large to integrate with just a pair of 6,5" mid-bass drivers. I have a WV Passat Variant (station wagon). I would have presumed that the integration was the key, rather than the size of the sub, I've seen that before, once, but I'd like some more opinions on the issue before I take a descision.

I have a Mazda excab truck. I have alpine r 6.5 in front with dynomat and 5x7 r in the rear, powered by a pdx 4.100. Just purched a pdx 1.600 for subs need to know what you guys think. I listen to mostly older rock alittle country and very little hip hop. Help please.

Researched both and like what I read on both for SQ. Both are great looking subs, but don't know if I want the Morel because of 1000watts. Just don't want to hit that hard but if it is that tight and clean I would consider it. What do you guys think.

So here's the scoop. I have A 2004 Dodge Ram quad cab that i plan on outfitting this spring, and I am very indecisive so I figure I better start planning things out now. I have learned from this forum and my own mistakes to start with the front stage, so that's where I'm at. Right now there are 6x9s in the front and 5.25s in the rear. I am thinking of doing 6.5 componants up front and just leaving the rear alone, unless it is greatly beneficial. I guess my first question is active or passive. I have never run active, but if the sound difference will be noticebale than it's worth it to me. The head unit right now is an alpine 9886, I do not have the imprint option f…

i'm having a problem positioning my tweeter since my car is equipped with pillar airbags. My only options are in the sail panel, kicks or the dash itself. With the sail panel, my only apprehension is that when i open the door, the tweeters might get wet when it rains ( by the way, comps are RE XXX6.5's so the tweeter is pretty open ) If i put it in kicks, i might damage the tweeter since it has no grills The other option is the dash, but I'm wondering if this is advisable. I was thinking of putting it in a fiberglass pod enclosure, something like this Is it generally better to make the tweeter face upward or towards me or towards my rearview mirror ? I'm using an Alpine…

I'm in the market for 4 new 15-18" subwoofers for HT and music. SQ is my major concern. SPL is important too but only if SQ is not compromised. Of those listed in the title which would you recommend and why? These will either be in sealed boxes with a Q of .5-.6 or mounted in IB manifolds. In either case they'll be crossed and EQed digitally so driver Q doesn't really matter. Efficiency doesn't matter either because brute power is fairly cheap these days. BTW, the Audiopulse is on a one day sale for $348 at PE and the AE AV15's are on their last day pre-order price of $219. So... I need help TODAY!! Feel free to make other suggestions but please explain your reason…

has anyone here know any thang bought these subs Precision Power PRO-124 i have a aq 2200d amp i just got i want somethang thats going to be louder and hit harder than type rs

my max dimensions are 18h 37w 36d

what is the difference between the dual 1 ohm or dual 2 ohm on the btl's? is it just what the sub can handle, and can be wired down and witch is better the 1 or 2?

I just got my 15" icon dual 2 on monday =) So anyway im probably about 75% done building a fiberglass box for it and I may have to invert the sub to get the neccesary air space. When i do that I have to reverse the polarity correct? So for a 1 ohm load at the amp I would run amp + to sub - on voice coil 1 and amp - to sub + on voice coil 2 and then connect the remaining 2 terminals together. Is that correct?

Well I got the deck I wanted. The alpine 9887. I wanna go active but wanna make sure it this will work Need some pointers if not Option 1 will be using 2 100.2 ( one amp for tweets and one for mid basses) The tweets will be wired to 8ohm ( 2 wired in Series) Midbasses will be wired to 2ohm ( 2 wired in Parallel) Option 2 Tweets will be wired to 4ohm ( wired to each channel) Midbasses will be wired to 2ohm ( 2 wired in Parallel)

how do people take the sub out of the basket without wruening the subwoofer i seen it in one of steve meades builds and i have seen it in others

hey everybody, I've narrowed down my search for 6.5" 2 way component speakers... ::Pheonix Gold RSD 65cs (60/120 watts rms/peak each) ::Massive Audio SK6 (100/220 watts rms/peak each) ::Massive Audio CK6 (130/280 watts rms/peak each) ::Massive Audio TK6 (120/270 watts rms/peak each) I'm not sure of what amp i will be powering the speakers with yet. I plan on running an Fi BTL with them so I'd like something loud enough to keep up with it. What do you think would be the best choice/why... thanks! Andrew

Well, they are shipping and I do have mine. It sounds great, the output is less than I am used to, but still more than I need. Listening to songs the biggest difference I notice is how pointed and short some of the notes actually are compared to how long they seemed on my BMs. They sound much closer to my B&Ws in my room, just pin pricks of sound where it should be with no hangover. I would recommend them to anyone looking for a true SQ sub. Now the caveats: If you are looking for a loud sub that can take more than 1000 watts this is not the sub for you. This is designed specifically for a 1 cubic foot sealed box, that is it. They are also designed to only take 1000 w…