Subwoofers / Speakers

For a fixed budget, aught I go 2- or 3-way? I was thinking that by going 3-way rather than 2-way you might be able to get a better overall balance between the differnt areas of the bandwith? Or would I be better off, just going with as good a 2-way system that I can for the same money? And for this front system (6,5" mid-basses), someone said that a 15" sub would be too large to integrate with just a pair of 6,5" mid-bass drivers. I have a WV Passat Variant (station wagon). I would have presumed that the integration was the key, rather than the size of the sub, I've seen that before, once, but I'd like some more opinions on the issue before I take a descision.

I noticed Mach 5 Audio is now offering a MJ18-PR. Are there more sizes to come? I dig the box Mark made with a IXL 15 and the MJ18-PR. Dreaming out loud. I'd like to build a box with 3 IXL 10's firing up and 3 rear firing 10" PR's for my stang. Hint, hint, make a 10" PR. Keep the excellent products coming.

I'm in the final stages of planning out the system for my 97 Maxima. So far, I have 4 Sundown E8 woofers and a SAX-100.4 amp ordered to cover the midbass. Not purchased, but planned, is a SAZ-3000D running 2 Fi Q15's sealed. I want to run 2 of the E8's in the rear deck where the stock speakers are now and the other 2 E8's in the stock speaker locations in the front doors. The E8's will be powered by the 100.4 in a 4 channel 4ohm config so I can fade as needed for staging. That brings me to the topic of this post. I am left with trying to figure out what tweets and mids to go with. I was originally going install tweets in the stock locations which is at the top of th…

hope to get some inputs for the sub. it could be a 12" or 15". car to be designed on is a 96 accord. target is to be able to play loud but accurate. meaning it can play rap, techno/trans, soft/ballads, rock etc., still with good readings from termlab... possiblly dbdrag style yet as accurate sounding as possible. requirements: 1. box is no bigger that 3.5 cubes - so that spare tire would be accessible 2. box design can only be a wedge 2 enclosure type box - to maximize all space and still get the spare tire 3. sub would be placed facing the cabin, possibly on the back seat position for a single sub, but towards the trunk for a dual sub or all towards the trunk. depends on…

I have an AQHDC315 d1. wired to a AQ 1200.1 at 0.5 ohms. I am thinking about getting a second 1200.1 and bridging them. The question is will making this upgrade be significantly louder to the ear. I know its hard to say because it always depends on box, setup, installation, etc. but I am just trying to get an idea.

u can get one new for like 294 am i right? and i dont knwo about that wear on the surrounding..lol http://cgi.ebay.com/Fi-Bl-18-inch-subwoofe...%3A1|240%3A1318 thanks

hi guys im wonderin

I'm still looking and agonizing over sub decisions. So many things out there.. I was thinking Fi SSD's, but I want other options as well. Here's what I want: Three 12", 4ohm DVC Good mix of SQ and SPL, with a bit more SPL $250 or less (preferably in the $200 range) Sealed box @ about 1.25cu ft per sub (net displacement) Someone suggested to me the new Hertz HX300's. Has anyone heard these? How do they sound, and how loud can they get?

I've been trying to find a set of component speakers with good sound quality and that can get LOUD...if thats possible. I've been looking closely at two sets: -RE Audio XXX 6.5s *Power Handling: 150 Watts RMS *Impedance: 2 Ohms -Pheonix Gold RSD 65cs *Power Handling: 60 watts RMS *Impedance: 4 Ohms Ive seen many threads that promote the PG's but im just wondering if the RE's would be a better buy? The RE's are quite a bit more expensive...but also have a higher wattage. Thanks!

Yeahh to me I got my MJ18ms installed in my wagon but I used to big of a drill bit to pre drill and now some of my screws backed out, and Now I have to Brace the Front part again but OMG Rashad was right they are some bad ARS subs I cant belive it only off 900Rms or so After I fix the flex ill be set

just wanted to know when we could hope to get specs. the subs look sick

Hi there i am little bit confused where i live the mille cost 2 times more then the clarus but what is better speakers you think?

Ok so i recently purchased a box caprice station wagon and I want to put a lot of subs in the back a demolish my opponents! So what do yall think I should put together? Budget is $2,000 for subs and $3000 for amp(s). I listen to alot of chopped and screwed rap music and like to crank it to the max and really slam, sq is really not an issue i just want it to sound sort of clean when im not killing my opponents and just straight cruisin.

hey everybody I came across a great deal on 2 Cerwin Vega Stroker Pros 15s and was wondering if they're any good? I was looking at the specs for a box and seems to be significantly smaller than the size of the BTL...anybody have any input?? thanks, Andrew

with 4 18''s and 30kw i needed to put some highs en mids. i gonna run. 8 sets ( coax 5inch) total 16 speakers 2 sets ( mids 6 inch ) total 4 speakers 2 sets ( extra tweeters ) total 4 tweets. wat will be the best way to run them, than i mean with the amps. i have already 1 4channel amp (rf t8004) what kind of total setup will be the best to run the front part? thnx

Im looking for a sub to replace a 10" IDQV2. I will be running it off a JL 500/1. I like the specs on the Fi SSD and the SSA Icon but dont really see a huge diff between the 2, other than getting the copper coil and BP Power (whatever that is..) on the SSD. Can someone please tell me what BP Power is. I searched but didnt find a clear answer.

So I'm looking for sub. Nothing huge, a 10" would most likely be best. I would prefer a small footprint, so I was looking at some of the slimmers subs out there. Kickers, JL, etc. What is the deal with slim subs? Do they perform as well as their deeper counterparts? Any benefits to them other than the small boxes needed? ANd on the topic of boxes, I read how you needed a proper box to make the sub sing, but I am curious. 1) how do you determine port length? 2) pro/con of doing a bended port? 3) the box can easily be too small, but can a box be too big? Just some questions while I am learning everything.

i'm having a problem positioning my tweeter since my car is equipped with pillar airbags. My only options are in the sail panel, kicks or the dash itself. With the sail panel, my only apprehension is that when i open the door, the tweeters might get wet when it rains ( by the way, comps are RE XXX6.5's so the tweeter is pretty open ) If i put it in kicks, i might damage the tweeter since it has no grills The other option is the dash, but I'm wondering if this is advisable. I was thinking of putting it in a fiberglass pod enclosure, something like this Is it generally better to make the tweeter face upward or towards me or towards my rearview mirror ? I'm using an Alpine…

I just got my 15" icon dual 2 on monday =) So anyway im probably about 75% done building a fiberglass box for it and I may have to invert the sub to get the neccesary air space. When i do that I have to reverse the polarity correct? So for a 1 ohm load at the amp I would run amp + to sub - on voice coil 1 and amp - to sub + on voice coil 2 and then connect the remaining 2 terminals together. Is that correct?

so im thinkin about getting a single btl 18 or bl or even a q. i heard of people having to run seperate batteries and new alternators and running more wires. will this really be neccasary? my truck is just wired for a amp and all that right now

Researched both and like what I read on both for SQ. Both are great looking subs, but don't know if I want the Morel because of 1000watts. Just don't want to hit that hard but if it is that tight and clean I would consider it. What do you guys think.

Ok so I checked my ohm load to see if it was really at 1 ohm. My DMM reads 3.1-3 ohms, so I pulled the subs out and tried from the connection. I got 1.5 on one side and 1.5 on the other, with out the jumper. They are 2ohm dvc. So why am I not getting them wired down to 1ohm when I put the jumper on from - to + as it should be? Some one plaese explain this to me. I mean I get that 1.5+1.5 = 3 but shouldn't I get .5+.5=1ohm? Then if it run it like if it was at a half ohm. It reads .8-1.0 ohms thats - jmped to - and + jumped to + Are the dual 4ohm subs? Even though the guy that sold them to me said dual 2? Oh and they BOTH do the same thing

I have a Mazda excab truck. I have alpine r 6.5 in front with dynomat and 5x7 r in the rear, powered by a pdx 4.100. Just purched a pdx 1.600 for subs need to know what you guys think. I listen to mostly older rock alittle country and very little hip hop. Help please.

I'm in the market for 4 new 15-18" subwoofers for HT and music. SQ is my major concern. SPL is important too but only if SQ is not compromised. Of those listed in the title which would you recommend and why? These will either be in sealed boxes with a Q of .5-.6 or mounted in IB manifolds. In either case they'll be crossed and EQed digitally so driver Q doesn't really matter. Efficiency doesn't matter either because brute power is fairly cheap these days. BTW, the Audiopulse is on a one day sale for $348 at PE and the AE AV15's are on their last day pre-order price of $219. So... I need help TODAY!! Feel free to make other suggestions but please explain your reason…

what is the difference between the dual 1 ohm or dual 2 ohm on the btl's? is it just what the sub can handle, and can be wired down and witch is better the 1 or 2?