Subwoofers / Speakers

been out of the car audio loop for a while because i have been working on the new house. with some spair time and cash coming up soon i wanted to do a little work on the car. i have been able to piece together everything but the subs from stuff lying around. its all going in my beater back and fourth to work car so i am not looking to go all out. its a 97 civic 4 door that runs better than it looks. anyways...... looking for something thats pretty well rounded musically ( country, rock, hip-hop, jazz, talk radio ect... i listen to almost all of it) more than likely sealed and up to 3 cuft. i have one of the v-power alpine amps thats 300 @ 4ohm, 500 @ 2 ohm to work with…

i dunno if im retarded but i didnt see it on the site? whats the mounting depth for a Rl-i 10"?

I have a buddy that I built a box for and installed two SA-8's. He bought both of them used, one from Darren Francis, the other from a local guy. Anyway, with the subs wired in series/paralell for a 4 ohm load, one of the subs gets extremely hot after only about 3-5 minutes of play. If the sub hasn't been played and is cool, there is no scratching when pushed in, but when it's been played and gets hot, it has a little scratching noise when pushed in. Anyone know why this would be happening to only 1 sub? The other sub stays completely cool and plays fine. It is possible that one of the coils could be blown on the bad sub? I did a quick test with a DMM on the subs wired to…

So my subwoofer (Alpine Type R 12") is dual voice coil 4 ohm. Now what I'm confused with is it's wiring down to 2 ohms (for 500 watts RMS). I wired down to "2 ohms", but is that per voice coil, making it 4 ohms, thus leaving me with only 300 watts RMS? If so, does that mean I'd have to wire it down to 1 ohm, making it 2 ohm total? Basically what I'm asking is if the ohms are per voice coil, or total. Any help would be great! This would really make things clear.

Ok i have two fi q 15's and i am very impressed with their output, however, i want something that has more output potential than the q's. I like the super low bass my box is tuned to 27hz so keep that in mind when making suggestions as I dont want an spl woofer but a woofer that gets extremely low like the q. I love the Q's I just need more output. thanks

I have heard everyone raving about these speakers... just wondering where i can pick up some of em. thanks in advance =) oh and incase it matters... im in Az

I have a 2002 nissan altima without the bose speaker system. I currently have a Pioneer deh-4200ub headunit and in the front I put in 2 alpine type S coaxial speakers. In the rear deck are 2 pioneer 6x9s that were installed by the previous owner. Im looking to add some more midbass to my system because the current speakers just seem sort of flat. I dont have an amp hooked up and the HU is powering the speakers. Ive read here that an amp is necessary to get the most out of your speakers because the HU pushes something like 22w. Im pretty content with the type S's up front sq wise. They are 5 1/4 if I remember right and thats all that would fit in there without fabrication …

So I am wanting to do a test with a few sets of tweeters. I am currently looking into the following, but need a few more recomendations. looking at.. Seas 27TBFC/G Scan-Speak D2904/6000-00 have... CDT DRT-25

I was wondering if anyone had any experience with using a car audio sub in a home theater setting? I will be getting a Crown amp that is somewhere aroung 4k - 5k watts so power shouldn't be too much of an issue. I was mostly looking at building a box for a single 15" since the box for a 18" jumps up in size considerably. Any info and/or help is greatly appreciated. Thank you Eric

What would the recommended wattage be for a single 18 run in an IB set up?

i was thinking lately that mabye my box is to big and open? i have a 12 inch d2 in a 3.0 tuned to 28 now i am thinking something like a 2.0 tuned to 34 would be better for me. it really is deep bass heavy were only a few songs go. would a higher tuning and a smaller box be better?

we get to send in our old crappy subs and get a price break for buying thiers hehehe =) worth a shot heheh

i have looked, but cannot find the DC build log with the four 10"s and three aero ports, and a viewing window, it had a custoum port plug in the center port, does any one know who this was? thanks chop

Heres the dilemma, i was just driving home from my friends when i noticed a burning electrical smell from the rear of my car. When i got home i opened the trunk and proceeded to check my dustcap to see if it was hot but it was ice cold and the stink was coming from my port. The sub was playing undistorted still and is fairly new. Should i worry about this? Sub feels fine and my gains were set by ear. No noticable clipping. Any comments, advice, or otherwise would be wonderful... Thanks! Sub: RE SX 15 - 4 cuft box tuned to 34 Amp: MA HC2001 Source: Pioneer DEH-7800

I really want a 18, extremely bad but I have been lead away from it due to trunk space. My question is, if I put a SSD 18 in a 5.5 cuft box how would it sound compared to a SSD 15 in a 3cuft box. I wouldn't have a problem fitting the 15 in but the 18 would be a snug fit, but its much more appealing.

I have an re sx15 in a box that I've recently discovered is all wrong. I went to re's website and used their box designer. And setup a slot ported 4.2 cu ft box tuned to 34 hertz. I'm just wondering if anyone has experience with this sub and what specs you built your box to. I'll be running it at 2 ohms off an saz 1500d. I'm looking for mostly sq with the rare spl moment.

i currently have 3 JL 10w0's in a sealed box running of an infinity amp that puts out 600rms @ 2ohms. Im frustrated with the wimpy bass im getting from the JL's. I found a great deal on a MJ 18 4 ohm. I would plan on putting the mj in a ported box and i was wondering if the MJ would increase my output with the same amp?

For purely academic purposes, imagine a ported enclosure tuned with 2 aeroports. If the aeroports were different lengths...and therefore different tunings, what would the net result to the listener be? Would the box only keep one tuning?...would the tuning freq be "spread out"?...would space/time warp and fold back on itself thereby negating this whole exercise? Thanks

I want one back...need it for my newest install.

How well do these babies boogie with only 600 RMS? Thanks!!

Will a 15" SRx hold up on a kicker 400.1 daily.?

Well something came to mind after looking at the SI's box recomendations. I am a SQ guy so the 1.5 cu ft box sealed sounds best to me. At 1.5 cu ft, that is almost 1/3rd of the size of the box that is currently in my car! I have a 4.4 cu ft box for a single MTX sub now. Anyway, The system I am replacing is the first single sub stereo I ever made. Needless to say, I only bought 1 SI Mag12" to replace it. However I am wondering now, should I consider a second sub? I will be running a US Amps USA-300x Rated at 900 watts at 4 Ohms at 12 Volts. Can this amp power 2 of these is some way? This dual 2 ohm voice coil stuff is kinda new to me. I am used to old school SVC …

I have a 2002 forester looking for a good starting place for box ideas for 2 9515's and what would be better power wise. M4, M4a, DC 5k?

this just in, just found out today when i got some new h2's in, they changed the surround to a foam style surround that is taller. I was like wtf, whats this all about, and emailed my buddies at tech support to find out. my questions: whats the deal with the new surround on the h2's? any advantages? Reason for design change? They seem to look like they will allow more excursion, but thats all from looks. shane his reply: More power handling, and greater excursion, 32mm now ohhhh, cant wait to test!!! got someone testing at sbn, hehehe. will have pics soon.

I just recently bought a Sundown Audio SAE-1200D, and I was going to buy a pair of JL 12w3v3-2 subwoofers and wire them in parallel to get an impedance of 1 Ohm. Now I have heard that the SAE-1200D is underrated and I was wondering what SVC 2 Ohm subwoofer could handle the full power of the amp. The main prolem of this whole thing is that I already paid the money for the box and if possible, I would like to use it. The box is a dual 12 inch ported enclosure with a shared chamber and one terminal cup for each subwoofer (If that even matters). Im also not looking to pay over 300 dollars for the pair of subs. (Which shouldn't be hard becuase the 12w3s that I was going to buy…