Subwoofers / Speakers

Well I am currently laid off work so I told my wife I would add some bump to her ride. Seemed easy enough at the time. Then I started shopping around, and now I am losing my mind. I have looked at so many subs I think my brain is going to explode. I'm just wondering where to start. I would like to run 2 12's ported if possible, if not Ill drop down to 10's. Rough dimensions are 32Wx15Hx?. I can probably go wider, but just a starting point. I decided I will build a box for the first time so whatever I go with hopefully someone can help out with a good box design, or point me in the right direction. My wife will be happy with anything, she heard 2 12" cvx ported and …

im looking to get the loudest i can with that amp whay would yall do?got a blazer so cubic feet isnt a problem

I'm looking to downsize in the trunk of my 03 civic 4dr. Right now I have 1 15"TC2000 in a 3.2cf @32hz powered by an Alpine PDX 1.1000. Honestly, I could stand to lose a little output. So my question is how does 3 10lvl2 sealed vs. 2 10lvl3 ported compare in terms of output, upper bass freq, & lower bass freq? Also, would both of these setups be a BIG step down to my current one? Thankyou.

I have a 1995 Honda Accord. I was thinking about putting in some tweets in the a-pillars of my Honda. I don't want to make it a guess and check scenario and mess up my a-pillars. Is there any place or can someone tell me how I can obtain these custom a-pillars or how to make them? Thanks, -Curt

Hello everyone. I am looking to get your guys advice and see what kind of suggestions you have on subs. Right now I have a Phoenix Gold 500.2 Amp benched at 530 watts. I was running 2 12" Image Dynamic ID's. 4 Ohm. I am running just a standard box that was sold to me where I bought the subs. Unfortunately, I have blown both of the 12" ID's. I am not sure how because I never turn the Amp all the way up and never mess with the settings on my head unit. Maybe just cause they are 3 years old. I am wondering if you guys think I should go with 1 high quality 12" sub or just go with 2 12" subs again. I am not really looking to be super loud. I just want something that so…

My amp is a SAX-100.4 and will be running in 2 ohm stereo so 160 watts per channel. Can 18 gauge handle that?

For general purposes- is 3 10s in their largest recommended ported box going to be "potentially" louder than 2 12s in their smallest recommended ported box? Power comparison- 10s would receive maximum recommended rms, 12s would receive double recommended but small box would control movement better. I've kinda asked this question many different ways but i am now in a hurry and need to know from u guys who have had experience with just enough volume and just right volume and so on... I am leaning towards the 3 10s just because i fear a just enough volume for 12s would lack low bass even if power is doubled.... It's my opinion so i am looking for facts before i place the wro…

I was hoping someone could give me thoughts on going from a 15" Mag in a 3cuft sealed box to a 12" Arc Audio Flatline in a 2cuft portet box tuned to 32hz. I'm happy with the Mag's output and sq but I think I want a little more output now. Does the Flatline keep the same sq as the Mag does? How is the output of the Flatline compared to the Mag? Are the lows of the Flatline as good as the Mags? Thanks

i am trying to decide between the dc lv4-12 or the new IA death row 12 i am thinking about using a hellboy box or have one custom buil by brian any info would be helpful

I posted this someplace else but you guys seem to know Parts Express pretty well from my brief experience here! I have an 8" subwoofer from a 2001 Suburban with a completely disintegrated foam surround. Voice coil still works and spider is intact. The speaker is 2 ohms and sees about 50 watts from the amplifier. It sits in a small sealed box, around 0.5 cu ft. Thats about all I know of it. Parts express has many options to choose from. I want as cheap as possible since this vehicle is getting sold and I'd like it to have a fully working radio. If it was mine, it would be getting two 18s about now! Any ideas guys?

I'm going to be buying (4) 6.5 inch midbass drivers and I'm looking at either the Kicker SS6.5s or the Mach5 Audio 6.5 midbass. They will be actively crossed at 60hz up @24db and 200hz down @12db. They will be getting 75watts rms each and run free-air in the stock door locations of my '04 Dodge Durango. Any thoughts...other suggestions. Either way I go it will only cost me about $150 and that's the range I would like to stay around.

what is the best enclosure for this sub...? ported or what? and measurements if you got them to please... i drive a 2000 jetta, and i still want trunk space after putting this sub in too.

Ok, before i purchase these, let me know if you think it's gonna be loud enough and reasonably par sound quality. The sets i've chosen are TOTALLY different so you might go wtf for a sec as i even did when i made these choices, hehe. Front stage- 6.5" components Rear stage- 6.5" midbass drivers Chosen- Front - Alpine Type X Reference Rear- Audiobahn Midbass Driver Why? I am running 4KW of power, normally about 2-2.5 for longterm daily. I just need something louder that doesn't sound like garbage basically, nothing spectacular that just makes your heart stop quality, nothing like that. I have a Sundown 100.4 already. I was looking at the reference and Pro line of these Typ…

I was looking at the FI BL 18 for the price but I am really wanting to try the Sound Splinter RL-P18, Plans are 2 18s in a wall, what does everyone think of the two (pros,cons,what you like about which sub) thanks for any input provided.

I've been putting this off for too long just researching so i forced myself to finalize a box and i did today so there's no turning back now! This is what i have to work with and YOU will decide what goes in my car Box specs- EXTERNAL- Height - 17.75" Width - 36.25" Depth - 17.75" Double Baffle Design INTERNAL GROSS - 5.06 cubes Amps - 2 AQ2200Ds or 2 Opti2000Ds I won't buy the amps until i know what ohm load i'm working with. Both capable of producing 4,000w at 1 ohm or 2 ohm so their's your start. Port spec - This is port displacement based upon power used. IF you pick a design that can't handle 4kw, then port will take up less volume allowing more NET volume. 4KW- 0…

ill have about 100-130$ for deading front doors. ive got a dynamat extreme 36^2 foot (bulk) kit in the trunk. which is enough just barly enough for my arsensal. what would be a good product to cover front doors with my budget? i was thinking about getin another dynamat extreme bulk kit for doors.

A friend has some subs that suffered a poor recone job by their previous owner. There are gaps (air leaks) around the surround that I want to seal. It looks easy enough to do from the back, just peeling back the surround and dropping a bead of glue in. The question is what kind of glue do I use, and possibly more important, where can I find it? The only glues I actually have already are CA-based "super glue", various "goop" products, and 2-part epoxy glues. I want to buy the right glue for the job however if there's something better I can use. I also need to glue the dustcover, which is peeling off.

What do you guys think about that? A good switch or should i stick with the BTL's? But either way im wanting to change my 12's to some 15's.. so its between the new BTL 15's or new lvl 5 15's

Did anyone go to the auction? Did Thilo zap up the whole thing?

Hello gents, So all these years I've been a sealed enclosure type of guy. I listen to bands with lots of double kick and I enjoy it being deadly accurate.. However, I did hear a ported 12" this week that has me rethinking some things. The guy played me Megadeth's "Rust in Peace" (remastered) album and the sub seemed to do pretty well keeping up with the double kick. However, how would the transient response be for even quicker metal bands? (i.e. Divine Heresy, Wintersun, Nile, etc..) Would it stay somewhat accurate? or would it turn into a more muddled response? Or... is it dependent on the frequencies of that particular kick drum(s) and/or be dependent on the band/m…

I was browsing the local car audio store when I saw one of these with a neo magnet. I looking for any info anybody has on this. I know they are similar to a TC3000, but thats about it. Dual 4 ohm FS 39hz QTS .643 Vas .832cuft Xmax 25mm SPL 85db 1w/1m 1000w rms $500 from the store. I looking for basically how they sound, what kind of driver they are, and if you think they are worth that kind of cash. Help is appreciated. Thank you

Hey guys, so I am making a LOUD daily pounder with a good possibility for competition. I keep reading stuff about adding midbass up front. At the moment I am planning on running 4 12's (either havocs or BLs) in the back off of about 6k watts total (probably 2 sundowns for amps). I am lookin at RF 5.25" comp sets for the doors (at least up front), more than likely an entire set per side, 1 speaker+tweet in the door and one in the A-pillar. Will I be needing midbass??? And if so, is it okay to put that in something like a kick panel instead of doing MAJOR refab work to the door?

i got 50' (overkill but i got it cheap) of speaker wire for my new components. i ran my power on the left and rca's on the right. which side sould i run the speaker wire on? does anyone ever leave the crossovers close to the amp so they dont get damaged? it would require me to run x2 wire tho... my components are pg 6.5" rsd's. amp is kx250.2 (mounted behind rear seat)

Guys i need help alot of it I think im sold on 4 mj 18s the price is great and i wanna make ppls jaws drop when they see it I have a 92 caprice wagon 47x40x21" to work with (i cant go a lil more than 40 if needed i want to keep my spare tire in the back) Okay First how can i do it I was gonna run 14 cubes in a clamshell design tuned to 28 hz or just doing sub up port back what would the best option i was realy set on the clam shell i like having the subs face me Like a wall Let me know thans

I have $400-$500 to spend on a comp set and an amp. I've listened to a few sets locally (infinity,diamond,focal) I wasn't that impressed. However I have been researching on several car audio forums and have heard good thinks about hertz, cdt, mbquart, pgrsd and a few others. I can't say I'm more focused on sq or spl cause I like them both, want to feel it in my chest and hear the music loud and clear. If you can reccommend an amp with your choice that would be awesome. What is all the hype about the pg rsd? Is it because of the price or actual quality?