Subwoofers / Speakers

I'm going to be buying (4) 6.5 inch midbass drivers and I'm looking at either the Kicker SS6.5s or the Mach5 Audio 6.5 midbass. They will be actively crossed at 60hz up @24db and 200hz down @12db. They will be getting 75watts rms each and run free-air in the stock door locations of my '04 Dodge Durango. Any thoughts...other suggestions. Either way I go it will only cost me about $150 and that's the range I would like to stay around.

Alright guys new one for you, My stupid city is now getting ready to pass a new law which states that if your sound system is too loud in your car, the police IMPOUND your car. Am I losing it or is this not the most Freaking DUMB THING you've ever heard in your life. If a cop can hear your music from over 25 feet, they fine you 650 dollars, and they impound your car. So much for getting a new sound system in my car. SARASOTA, FLORIDA I HATE YOU. any thoughts would be appreciated.

what is the best enclosure for this sub...? ported or what? and measurements if you got them to please... i drive a 2000 jetta, and i still want trunk space after putting this sub in too.

I've been putting this off for too long just researching so i forced myself to finalize a box and i did today so there's no turning back now! This is what i have to work with and YOU will decide what goes in my car Box specs- EXTERNAL- Height - 17.75" Width - 36.25" Depth - 17.75" Double Baffle Design INTERNAL GROSS - 5.06 cubes Amps - 2 AQ2200Ds or 2 Opti2000Ds I won't buy the amps until i know what ohm load i'm working with. Both capable of producing 4,000w at 1 ohm or 2 ohm so their's your start. Port spec - This is port displacement based upon power used. IF you pick a design that can't handle 4kw, then port will take up less volume allowing more NET volume. 4KW- 0…

i got 50' (overkill but i got it cheap) of speaker wire for my new components. i ran my power on the left and rca's on the right. which side sould i run the speaker wire on? does anyone ever leave the crossovers close to the amp so they dont get damaged? it would require me to run x2 wire tho... my components are pg 6.5" rsd's. amp is kx250.2 (mounted behind rear seat)

A friend has some subs that suffered a poor recone job by their previous owner. There are gaps (air leaks) around the surround that I want to seal. It looks easy enough to do from the back, just peeling back the surround and dropping a bead of glue in. The question is what kind of glue do I use, and possibly more important, where can I find it? The only glues I actually have already are CA-based "super glue", various "goop" products, and 2-part epoxy glues. I want to buy the right glue for the job however if there's something better I can use. I also need to glue the dustcover, which is peeling off.

Hello gents, So all these years I've been a sealed enclosure type of guy. I listen to bands with lots of double kick and I enjoy it being deadly accurate.. However, I did hear a ported 12" this week that has me rethinking some things. The guy played me Megadeth's "Rust in Peace" (remastered) album and the sub seemed to do pretty well keeping up with the double kick. However, how would the transient response be for even quicker metal bands? (i.e. Divine Heresy, Wintersun, Nile, etc..) Would it stay somewhat accurate? or would it turn into a more muddled response? Or... is it dependent on the frequencies of that particular kick drum(s) and/or be dependent on the band/m…

I was wondering if the spl subwoofer line by mach 5 is strickly for spl because I would like to use one in a daily setup. If you have one or heard one, what do they sound like? For example, could you compare them to say a Type R? I already know Mark's opinion, but I would like a few others

guys as i mentioned in a few other threads i am a sales rep and i spend ALOT of time in the car. after debating for hours what would be best-- build a killer small sub box ( RLi8 or like with a PR to keep it small ) or redo my doors one of our resident experts here hit the nail on the head " why would you spend so much time or money on a sub? it reproduces about 15% of your sound ". it really hit home. i deadened my doors with Raamat, but did not do the closed cell foam on either skin of the door. when it warms up i want to make sure i do the closed cell foam ( is it better to line the inside of the door or between the panel trim and outer skin? ). i boug…

I have $400-$500 to spend on a comp set and an amp. I've listened to a few sets locally (infinity,diamond,focal) I wasn't that impressed. However I have been researching on several car audio forums and have heard good thinks about hertz, cdt, mbquart, pgrsd and a few others. I can't say I'm more focused on sq or spl cause I like them both, want to feel it in my chest and hear the music loud and clear. If you can reccommend an amp with your choice that would be awesome. What is all the hype about the pg rsd? Is it because of the price or actual quality?

how many of you guys actually give your components there suggested rms or under? and how many of you over power them? i was thinking around another 50 watts over suggested rms wouldnt kill them would it?

So why is this forum host of two different brands did the creator of one company buy out the other one or something? The subs look almost the same.

Anyone here use around 600rms on a Mag 15? I am debating instead of adding another battery into the car to just downgrade the power going to it. 600rms would be half of what I'm sending to it now. Its in a sealed box. Think it owuld be a huge difference in output or does the Mag do really bad with that amount of power?

I ended up getting a clarion 785usb and i have been wanting to go active for a while. I need some help with drivers tho. I really like the Eminence alpha 6 mids and i was looking at selenium horns, but i think theyd be pretty hard to get into the doors. Could you guys reccomend a decent metal dome tweet with a relatively shallow mounting depth that gets pretty darn loud? I have about 50 watts at 4 ohm and 70 at 2 ohm to work with and i think the crossover point would be like 3khz with that mid? oh and budget would be like 25ish for an 8 ohm driver or 40-50ish for a 4 ohm driver.

I have a infinity amp that puts out 600 rms at 2 ohms. I want an 18 inch sub in a ported box which i will be building. I only have enough money to get the mj 18 4 ohm. I was wondering if i will get good results by using the amp i have with the subwoofer. Im basically wondering how loud it will be....

I have an saz 1500 on tap and want the best SQ I can get out of it, and be able to play verry verry low deep bass with authority. I was thinking 18"s or so but the ICON is sooooo nice. I also thought about the last gen d2 mags, but a pair would be harder to find and I get confused with how I could wire them to not go lower than the 1 ohm load. What suggestions do you guys have? Any other ideas? It's going in an expedition 98 EB edition.

Well I want to try my Fi Q10 in a ported box to see if I can sqeeze a littel more output out of it but don't really know where to start. It is in a S10 ext cab and I don't what to take up the whole back seat and keeping the sound quality I have now in a .6ft^3 box is a must. I was thinking of using tubes for ports instead of a slot port but I am open to anything. Any ideas? Thanks, Mike B.

Well, I just found out today that I'm gettin an '02 Dodge Dakota quad cab for graduation After doing a little searching, there are very few possibilities of having a sub in the truck and not losing any seating space in the rear of the cab (well actually only one - MTX thunderform, but I definitely don't like the looks of it). So I plan to but a small sealed box in the middle of the floor in the rear, on the transmission hump. My question: does anyone have any experience with subs in trucks (mine in particular) and if there is any major difference in sound/output between up-firing, down-firing, forward, ect... I have read that downfiring is the way to go for sealed an…

I would like to purchase (2) Digital Designs 9512g's. The local dealers here do not carry DD and I cannot find anywhere online to purchase these subs. Would someone please point me in the right direction?

What do you guys think of the W7's other than there expensive? and W6's compared to W7's.

I have heard amazing things about both of these subs, which is cool. Actually, I have NEVER heard one bad thing. I am curious, how do these two subs compare. I am very much so a noob and know nothing about comparing specs really. All I really do understand is that the Q has a great XMax meaning what, more excursion which could yield more output (bass on the SPL side??)

I'm trying to hunt down an 8” that is closely comparable to an Rl-i 8 since there aren’t any new to be had.

Greets all. I am considering options for an impending install (my first) in my 2002 Nissan Sentra. My goal is a simple, yet good sounding front stage with simple and space saving low frequencies. Specifically, I'll be listening to a set of the $75 Cadence components up front and a yet to be determined sub system driven by a Cadence TXA6004 4-channel amp. Looking at the specs for the MLI-65, it would seem that they might work well in an infinite baffle alignment in the 6 1/2" holes on the back deck(parcel shelf?). I need all my trunk space for work and don't want to get into building a custom fiberglass enclosure. I am not looking for molar loosening bass, just some low …

next to the SS XxX next to the o6' Moab

I am looking for a sub that i can hook up to a 1500 watt amp. I'm looking at maybe a RE Audio SE15, Pierce audio moab or the wmd^2, or a 15" or 18" fi bl.